Posted on Wednesday, July 4, 2007 by Peter Knego
Paddlewheel Blog AMERICAN QUEEN: Cincinnati to Pittsburgh by Peter Knego
Paddlewheel Blog, Part One: Paddlewheel Prelude by
Drake Lobby. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
July 5, 2007: It’s 6:30 PM Eastern Standard Time. We are on a comfortable bus racing down Highway 74 for Cincinnati, Ohio to join Majestic America Line’s steamboat AMERICAN QUEEN. I am part of an exquisitely packaged Uncommon Journeys tour called American Experience, which began two days ago at Chicago’s landmark 1920-built Drake Hotel. Since my flight from New York arrived too late for me to join the group’s 5:00 PM architectural cruise past the downtown waterfront and into Lake Michigan, I just settled into the elegantly furnished room and enjoyed its north-facing view of the lake. I joined friends later for dinner at Carmine’s, a well-known Italian eatery, and a walk down to Lakeshore Drive to watch the fireworks amongst several thousand revelers and an armada of small craft anchored in the shallows. Although it was pleasantly warm, an ominous electrical storm suddenly derailed the fireworks and routed us back to the hotel just as the first drops of a torrential downpour began to fall.
Chicago Steamboat Train. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Yesterday morning, July 4, we arrived at Chicago’s Amtrak station to board a special vintage train to St. Louis via the Union Pacific Railroad. Four chartered historic cars, the Metis, the Mohave, the City of Angels and Henry Hudson were handpicked by Uncommon Journey’s CEO, Christopher Kyte (my traveling companion) to transport his group in style to St. Louis on the Independence Day special run.
The dining compartment on the City Of Angels. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
We settled into compartment A on the City Of Angels, which was built in 1949 for New York Central Railroad. Its freshly restored enameled metal bulkheads and shiny steel fittings were reminiscent of some of my favorite post war American ocean liners.
A bit reminiscent of the Navajo Room on the UNITED STATES, the Mohave. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Marckwald details. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I had a few moments to document the cars before the rest of the group arrived, so focused on the piece de resistance, the remarkably charming Mohave, which was built in 1949 for the Santa Fe Railroad. Its metal framed furniture, painted steel surfaces accented in chrome, Navajo-inspired soft fittings, film-reel topped cocktail tables and Navajo melamine panels seemed very familiar. Christopher pointed out that this car was designed by none other than Dorothy Marckwald, whose credits also included the AMERICA and UNITED STATES.
CN on the Metis. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Uncommon Journeys’ Barbara Abegglen hosts a small gathering in the Metis’ dining saloon. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
By the time I reached the last car, the Metis, the group had arrived. If the Metis had a recognizeable ambiance, it is because the car was built for the Canadian Government by Canadian National. Its mahogany paneling, heavy light fixtures and oversized furniture reminded me of CN’s handsome little PRINCE GEORGE of 1948. The Metis’ most popular feature, in addition to a private dining room and the lounge, is the small open air presidential platform where passing state dignitaries could wave to their contingents.
Breakfast on the Henry Hudson. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Buffet breakfast was served in the 1954-built Henry Hudson from 9:00 until 11:00 and lunch from 11:30 until 2:00 PM. Friendly wait staff circulated between the cars taking orders for soft and alcoholic drinks throughout the journey. The food and beverage service was all-inclusive, so few held back on their indulgences.
Keeping track of our journey on the Union Pacific. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I spent almost forty minutes on the platform as the train departed the station and head through South Chicago past the Calumet River and into the Illinois countryside. By the time we picked up speed (at one point, we reached 80 mph), I was holding tightly onto the rail, transfixed by the rhythmic clattering and vibration.
From Lincoln to The Simpsons: Springfield, Illinois. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Metis in St. Louis! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The train made a number of stops, from Joliet to Lincoln and Springfield, finally arriving at St. Louis just after it had been deluged by a downpour.
Our evening in St. Louis gave the group time to enjoy some of the nation’s most spectacular fireworks at the base of Saarinen’s graceful arch. Over a half million people were in attendance, which is why I chose to watch from the sanctuary of my hotel room and try to catch up on a massive sleep deficit.
AMERICAN QUEEN at Cincinnati. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Our coach left this morning, crossing the states of Illinois and Indiana (making a stop at Terre Haute for lunch). We have just now passed the stone and blue steel span of Cincinnati’s historic Roebling Bridge. Alas, there she is, the AMERICAN QUEEN!
PART TWO
The AMERICAN QUEEN’s builder’s plate. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Pretty as a picture, the AMERICAN QUEEN shows off her nice lines at Maysville, Kentucky. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Essentially, Majestic America Cruise Line’s AMERICAN QUEEN is to American rivers what the QUEEN MARY 2 is to the Atlantic. At 418 by 89 feet, the 3,707 gt 436 passenger vessel is by far the biggest river steamer ever built. Like the giant Cunarder, the AMERICAN QUEEN contains many traditional features and plies the routes of her ancestors while still offering her guests a myriad of modern comforts and conveniences.
Port Promenade Deck, facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The AQ was built for Delta Queen Steamboat Company by the McDermott Shipyard in Morgan City, Louisiana (90 miles west of New Orleans) in 1995. She has six passenger decks, a small wading pool, fitness center and games deck, a genuine steam calliope, open and shaded promenades on four decks (two of which, Promenade and Observation, fully encircle the boat), seven lounges, a buffet restaurant and terrace, dining room and theater. Last year, her previous operators, the struggling Delaware North (who had laid the boat up following Hurricane Katrina), were bought out by Seattle-based Majestic America Line, who returned her to service this past March.
I had forgotten what a truly exquisite creation the AMERICAN QUEEN is. Towering over Cincinnati’s waterfront at the base of the large baseball stadium, her rain-drenched superstructure was reflecting the late afternoon sun. Her new blue and maroon trimming is a bit more subdued and sophisticated than the original white with red and gold accents. Her twin, towering, black collapsible stacks have recently lost their gold rings, but their tops are still distinctively “feathered”. Their height (the tops are 109.5 feet above the water) gives the boat an aristocratic appearance that is furthered by the gently rounded terracing of her superstructure, a slight upwards sheer at bow and stern, and the hollow red drum of her paddlewheel.
Rain-bow. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Our bus had arrived at the terminal just minutes before the designated sailing time of 7:00 PM. I raced off to get a few photos and then joined Christopher as he stepped onto the gangplank. A rainbow appeared in the distance off the AQ’s bow as the sun’s rays converged with a small cloudburst across the Ohio River in Covington, KY.
Cabin 383, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Cabin 383, facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Our luggage was already waiting for us in Cabin 383, a category BB Superior Verandah Stateroom (also known as the Samuel Clemens Suite) on aft Texas Deck. The spacious cabin has a tiled bathroom with full bath, a long entryway, two twin beds, a large closet and two sets of drawers, a separate wash basin area, a flat screen television set and two large wicker chairs. There is loads of storage space and there are even two pairs of wall outlets for battery charging, laptops, shavers, etc. Many of the fittings are solid wood, brass, and beveled glass.
A most interesting feature is the verandah, which is directly behind the paddlewheel. It has a horizontally sliding glass screen and contains two very tall wrought iron chairs and a wrought iron table. With the screen open, there is a constant mist and with it closed, the space quickly becomes a terrarium.
As we lay down our hand luggage, we felt a faint ru
mble as the AQ’s steam engines were engaged and the paddlewheel began to roll. The marbled glass transom window over the terrace doors beamed a kaleidoscopic pattern of light from the turning wheel.
The AMERICAN QUEEN’s calliope in a menorah moment. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
We had a few fleeting moments on deck as the AMERICAN QUEEN thrust away from the landing and began her slow move upstream. The calliope saluted the well wishers on the river bank and the steam whistle sounded a short blast as the majestic stacks were hydraulically lowered to pass under the “Purple People” truss bridge and the golden arch span further up river.
Leaving it all behind us, the AMERICAN QUEEN is river-bourne. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Just as the AMERICAN QUEEN picked up speed and left a long frothy white wake in the winding green river, it was time for us to descend to the palatial J.M. White Dining Room for our main (late/7:45) seating dinner.
Last year, I had sailed in the DELTA QUEEN as she was going through an awkward transition of ownership from Delaware North to Majestic. As a result, the food and dining service were subpar, especially considering the per diems and the boat’s renown. A huge fan of the DQ, I chose not to describe the food in much detail as I was assured by friends who knew better that the situation was being addressed.
The J.M. White Dining Room, facing forward from starboard. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Reflected grandeur in the J.M. White (1). Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Reflected grandeur in the J.M. White (2). Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Nonetheless, it was with a slight bit of trepidation that I followed Christopher into the AQ’s gorgeous dining room with its its two deck high port and starboard galleries, looming chandeliers, ornate mirrors, tapestries, and trellised ceilings inspired by the social hall of the 1878-built steamboat J.M. WHITE (considered the grandest, most ornate ever built).
An eight seat round table, number 12 (on the starboard side) had two empty chairs waiting for us. Our friendly and efficient waitress, Carolyn, immediately took our orders. My dinner began with a carmelized sweet onion tart and the American Queen Majestic Salad (baby lettuce in a cucumber ring with teardrop tomatoes and pinot noir dressing). Both were excellent and set the stage for my delicious entrée, a tender rosemary roasted chicken in apple chutney with blue cheese scalloped potatoes. For dessert, I devoured the famous bread pudding in caramel sauce (the only thing I actually enjoyed on the prior year’s DQ cruise).
The rest of the evening was spent wandering through the AMERICAN QUEEN’s ornate parlors, unpacking, and watching the boat’s two huge searchlights illuminate the water and terrain ahead of us.
Maysville’s photogenic Masonic Temple. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
A plaque in front of the local theater dedicated to former Maysville resident, Rosemary Clooney. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Friday, July 6, 2007: We awoke this morning to find the AQ berthed at Maysville, Kentucky. After a quick continental breakfast in the Front Porch Of America, we ventured ashore through the concrete flood wall. The landing was formed by migrating buffalo and originally called Limestone. The name was changed to Maysville in 1787 in honor of John May, whose signature is on the Declaration of Independence. Today, Maysville is a terraced town with 155 buildings in the National Historic Register. We found a nice little cafe with high speed internet access, then wandered about the town and over to the Simon Kenton Bridge (whose towers are very similar to San Francisco’s famous Bay Bridge) before returning to the AMERICAN QUEEN.
We gathered in the J.M. White for lunch, which included a delicious beer and cheddar soup (not something I would normally seek out, but it was the only non-meat option and turned out to be a pleasant, savory surprise) and a fresh chicken caesar salad.
The Front Porch, facing starboard. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Instead of dessert in the dining room, I eventually head up to the Front Porch for an ice cream swirl and a peanut butter cookie.
The Simon Kenton Bridge. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
As we pulled away, the calliope took center stage while our fellow passengers cued up for a chance to pound the steamy keys and earn a “vox calliopus” certificate.
American power. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Clara Christensen enlightens us in the Grand Saloon. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The Ohio River scenery was as verdant as ever, with thickly forested banks, rolling hills, occasional cliffs, and even a power plant or two. I leisurely documented the boat, then attended an informative Ohio River talk at 2:30 PM by on board historian, Clara Christensen, in the ornate, balconied Grand Saloon.
The gym, facing starboard. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Paddlewheel pool area, facing aft through beveled glass. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Pool area, facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I spent the next hour at the gym, then readied for the show and dinner. The AMERICAN QUEEN is an “early” boat in that the shows for main seating are staged early (6:45) and followed by dinner. Early seating diners have it more traditional, with dinner at 5:15 PM and a show at 8:00 PM, not leaving many alternatives for night owls other than the saloon-like ambiance of the Engine Room Bar and the sassy singing of pianist Jackie Bankston at 9:30 PM.
My dinner began with a tomato gorgonzola soup with basil foam (nice) and the Majestic Salad (the pinot noir vinaigrette was unsettlingly viscous and looked like raspberry yogurt) and an outrageously delicious Halibut Alyeska (baked with a blend of cheese and spices). Dessert was a rich chocolate fudge cake that exceeded my expectations, once again.
Night passage in the Greenup Locks. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I felt the AQ nudge up against the concrete wall of the Greenup Locks around 10:00 PM and went up to the Front Porch for a quick look before returning to the cabin and a nice long night’s sleep.
AMERICAN QUEEN at Point Pleasant, West Virginia. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Point Pleasant’s most well-known visitor, the alluring Mothman. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Saturday, July 7, 2007: The AQ arrived at Point Pleasant, West Virginia this morning some four hours early at 9:00 AM. I awoke late, having finally slept away some of my fatigue, and wandered down to the J.M. White Dining Room for a quick sampling of the popular picnic buffet, which included fresh cole slaw, homemade red potato salad, steamed corn, catfish, roast or fried chicken, and pork ribs.
The ornate Grand Saloon, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 207.
Looming illumination in the Grand Saloon. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The Captain’s Bar Lobby, facing starboard. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The Ladies Lounge, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The Gentlemen’s Lounge/Writing Room, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
You’ll never get boared on the AMERICAN QUEEN. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
A lively bit of decor in the Gentlemen’s Lounge/Writing Room. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Inspired by that of the DELTA QUEEN, the AMERICAN QUEEN’s grand staircase, facing up and aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Facing aft from the Purser’s Lobby. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The Chart Room, facing starboard. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I head into the quaint little town, which was founded in 1794, and had a look around before returning to the AQ for more documenting. It was hovering around 90 degrees and very humid outside, so the cool, dark ambiance of the AQ was a nice haven.
Feathered towers. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Starboard stack down. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
There was a pilothouse tour at 3:00 PM, but with over forty people in attendance, I decided I would try another time.
At 5:00 PM, I stood on the forward Observation Deck and watched as the two stacks were hydraulically lowered into their cradles.
Point Pleasant departure. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The authentic steam whistle (which comes from the paddlewheeler JASON and prior to that, the CITY OF MEMPHIS) gave one short blast after the gangway was hauled on board and the lines were freed. In minutes, we were heading up the Ohio River and enjoying a light breeze from our forward movement.
The Engine Room control panel. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Port paddle gear in motion. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The AMERICAN QUEEN’s genuine steam power plant comes from the 1925-built paddlewheel dredger KENNEDY and is augmented by two Z-drives. An observation platform is open to passengers and can be accessed via the Engine Room Bar on aft Cabin Deck.
Red paddlewheel on a green river. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
While I was enroute to the gym, the AQ passed a beautifully lit town on the Ohio side of the river, giving her first official three whistle salute of the journey. Of course, there were no cameras hanging from my neck, so hopefully the scenery will continue to dazzle and maybe our gallant steamboat will find it in her heart to salute again during the next two days (when I have my cameras “on”, please!).
Dinner was delicious, once again. I chose the warm almond-crusted brie with apple cranberry compote, a Belgian endive and apple salad with candied walnuts, and a tender parmesan crusted chicken with herbed orzo and ratatouile. Dessert was a merengue banana pudding that looked and tasted divine.
Your blogger’s posting point, the Mark Twain Gallery, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
It is close to 10:00 PM. I have just come in from the stern, having watched at twilight as AMERICAN QUEEN passed through the Racine Locks. Here, in the handsome mahogany paneled Mark Twain Gallery, there a detailed vintage model of the magnificent DELTA QUEEN to my left. The polished wood decking is humming with a slight vibration, rattling the glass display cases and the tassels on the tall lamp shades as our vessel purrs onward. The “Lion Sleeps Tonight” is playing on the sound system and a couple next to me seem intent on their card game as a gentleman shuffles the deck for another round of something or other.
The Engine Room Bar, facing port. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
After a quick stop at the Engine Room Bar, it will be time to call it a night and get ready for our morning visit to Marietta, Ohio.
PART THREE
The AMERICAN QUEEN at Marietta, Ohio. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007
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Sunday, July 8, 2007: I was sleeping comfortably on my narrow but plush bed, surrounded in a sea of down pillows, when the wake up call rang at 8:00 this morning. It was followed by shore excursion announcements, all of which pierced through the foam armor of my ear plugs and the pillow over my head. By 8:30, my serene sleep had been stirred to the point of no return, so it was time to splash some water in my face and join Christopher and his charming mother Teresa in the J.M. White for our first full breakfast of this voyage. Although there were three omelet options to choose from on the menu, I asked for a cheddar, onion, and tomato special and it was cheerfully obliged. The orange juice was fresh squeezed and plentiful and the coffee tasted better than what I had been getting up in the Front Porch with continental breakfast.
I joined Christopher and Teresa for a sprint-like walk a mile or so along the quaint streets of Marietta, Ohio. Named for Marie Antoinette, the ill-fated French queen known better for her fabled references to cake than her support of the American Revolution, the town is yet another historic and scenic highlight of the Ohio River Valley. Teresa was intent upon attending a 10:00 AM service at St. Paul’s catholic church, so we marched several blocks along the main city street and over into the shaded residential neighborhood until we reached her destination.
From the church, I ambled down to the lush, hilly campus of Marietta University and blogged away from a small plaza swirling in WiFi airwaves, then returned to the AMERICAN QUEEN to join Christopher for lunch in the J.M. White. The chicken noodle soup was fresh and spicy and the marinated vegetables were nicely doused in aromatic olive oil, but the stuffed bell pepper entrée was hampered by a starchy consistency. My first disappointing course thus far in a cruise filled with culinary delectables.
The BECKY THATCHER at Marietta, Ohio. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Clara gave another informative lecture in the Grand Saloon covering the early history of the Ohio River at 1:30 PM and then at 3:00, I met up with Christopher and took a walk back into Marietta, then across the rickety wood and iron ex B&O; Railroad track, now serving as the Harman Foot Bridge, over the Muskingum River. The rather derelict looking 1926-built paddlewheeler, the BECKY THATCHER, lay alongside a crumbling pier on the town side of the river and two ex B&O; heavyweight passenger cars (a coach and an observation car) were preserved on the other side of the bridge.
Historic Marietta on a sleepy Sunday. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Marietta was bathed in a steamy, amber afternoon light but devoid of much activity on this particular Sunday.
Owners Suite 352 on aft/port Texas Deck/Deck Three. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Upon our return to the boat, Angie Wilkinson and Gwynne Zodrow from the front desk arranged for me to see some of the AMERICAN QUEEN’s cabins, ranging from a very luxe Owners Suite on aft Deck 3 (right next to ours) to Category AA’s which open up onto the Promenade Deck and Observation Deck, to compact but comfortable inside Category K’s.
H2O amenities. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
While on the subject of accommodation, I should mention that in addition to the great new bedding, towels, and robes, Majestic America has some of the best bathroom amenities afloat. The H2O sea marine shampoo, marine collagen lotion, sea salt body wash and hydrating body butter lotion are on par with good spa or salon amenities and are replenished throughout the cruise.
And the calliope played on… Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Two little smoke stacks…..
…and then….
…there were none. Photos and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Just as I finished up on forward Deck 5, the AQ’S whistle blew. With the calliope as their musical backdrop, the stacks came down, starboard side first and then the entire wheelhouse was lowered a deck to allow clearance under the green truss bridge ahead of us. On the port side, the gangway was being swung back on board a
s the paddlewheel and Z-drives propelled us upstream. For the townsfolk gathered at the top of the bank to see us off, the AMERICAN QUEEN must have looked spectacular. Under a hazy blue sky, the sun was beaming down on her red, white, and blue superstructure, the murky river and lush green vegetation.
AMERICAN QUEEN enters the Willow Island Lock. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I brought my cameras to the otherwise empty gym and sweat for the next hour or so, documented more scenery and the Willow Island Locks in the golden light, then returned to the cabin to get ready for dinner.
Tonight was the captain’s night, so everyone was dressed a bit more formally, ready to enjoy a glasss of complimentary champagne for captain’s toast.
My dinner consisted of a fried green tomato “Oscar” with blue crab meat and seared asparagus (excellent), the Majestic Salad (much better with vinegar and oil), and an Eggplant Parmesan tower. For dessert, I had another round of the bread pudding, which in three bites completely undid any progress I made at the gym today.
As twilight lingered over the stern (well past 9:30 PM), I joined Christopher at the Calliope Bar. What appeared to be Venus and Mars rose in the western sky as the heavens gradually switched on. Fireflies and other insects swooned around us while in the distance ahead, a low rumbling echoed off the river. We went forward and watched a spectacular fireworks display off the little town of Sistersville, W. Virginia. Brilliantly colored chrysanthemums, sparkling teardrops, and fizzling auroras illuminated the AQ’s stacks, which reached out with their feathered fingers into the constellations. The AMERICAN QUEEN crept slowly and silently forward, framed in the Ohio River’s rippling reflections until the fireworks ended in a dazzling crescendo.
PART FOUR
The AMERICAN QUEEN at Wheeling, West Virginia. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Monday, July 9, 2007: Since I am not doing any of the boat’s excursions on this trip, I have the luxury of sleeping in when I can. This morning, I awoke well after AMERICAN QUEEN berthed at the West Virginia town of Wheeling.
Captain Dugger (right) and Captain Jamison (left) on the bridge. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Captain Dugger was kind enough to invite me to the bridge for a quick photo or two of the wheelhouse and some shots out on the starboard wing. The fancy cage-like structure that crowns the wheelhouse was resting in the crew deck area just aft of the bridge, apparently because it is too tall for clearance under some of the Ohio River’s bridges.
Every blog needs a “face”. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Captain Dugger and his co-pilot, Joe Jamison, granted my request for a ‘face shot”, which I obtained after donning a life vest and following first mate, Steve Setser, out onto the port bow ramp.
After a couple of cappuccinos in the Front Porch, I was ready to join Christopher on a short walk into town. The thermometer was hovering around 90 degrees Fahrenheit, which felt like 105 to this unseasoned “west coaster” in the sticky humidity.
Although it has some interesting vintage architecture, it was clear that Wheeling has seen better days, as indicated by the number of boarded up structures and its slightly depressed ambiance.
Following a quick visit to the remains of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad station (it has been gutted and rebuilt as a university) and a call at the chamber of commerce where a very effervescent lady provided information about the historic and beautiful Wheeling suspension bridge, we circled back to the AMERICAN QUEEN.
I wanted to be on deck just prior to sailing to capture the AQ’s elusive steam whistle on tape, so I took a speedy lunch in the Grand Saloon where the buffet included a decent salad bar, ham and turkey sandwiches, rice, chicken jambalaya (very good), shrimp compote, beef soup, clam chowder, and prime rib.
The elusive whistle shines silently in the sun. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The bell of the “belle”. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Forward Deck 4/Observation Deck, facing aft. At the base of the windows is a series of brass plaques embossed with the names of AMERICAN QUEEN’s maiden cruise passengers.
Up on port Deck Five, it was blistering, even under my unfashionable Panama hat, as I stood with video camera propped toward that shiny brass whistle. After some twenty or so minutes of running the camcorder, I crossed over to the starboard side to see if the lines had been loosened. As I turned the machine back on, the whistle indeed sounded, but fizzled out just as the red “record” light illuminated.
The Wheeling waterfront. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Rosalinda returns! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Down came the stacks (again, starboard side first), followed by the wheelhouse, as we approached the Wheeling Bridge. Back on aft Deck 4, as the calliope started its steamy salute to Wheeling, I saw that none other than Rosalinda De Leon was at the keys. Her friendly smile and virtuoustic “callio-precision” were familiar from last year’s DELTA QUEEN St. Louis to Cincinnati sailing.
Uncommon Journeys’ Jean Dunphy hosts the private cocktail party in the Front Porch. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I attended Clara’s anecdotal talk on the DELTA, MISSISSIPPI, and AMERICAN QUEENs (Three Queens Make a Full House) in the Grand Saloon, then I squeezed in a trip to the under-utilized gym and did some pre-packing before joining Uncommon Journeys’ private party in the Front Porch where complimentary mint juleps, wine, and cocktails were served.
Back up on deck in the wilting heat, I encountered Captain Dugger once again. He was kind enough to ring up the bridge and request they give my camcorder a decent steam whistle sound byte, which I finally and successfully captured, once and for all! Thank you, captain!
West Virginia’s cliffs and bridges. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Unlocking another lock. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
It was hard to leave the changing scenery, which included red rock cliffs, more bridges, locks, small towns (some industrial and others purely residential), lavish farm estates, lush greenery, and new surprises around every bend. However, I did want to see Bob Schad and the Sunda Quartet’s show, a banjo concert and comedy showcase, in the Grand Saloon. After 100 or so cruises, I found the jokes a bit too familiar but the banjo playing and expert band accompaniment was electrifying. Tunes like “Old Man River” and “Waiting For The Robert E. Lee” were delivered with a heartfelt, reverent emotion. Majestic America should stick with this type of entertainment on the river boats and avoid the cliché-ridden Vegas-inspired stuff that can be found on any routine cruise ship. Being on the river and hearing Dixieland by real jazz musicians is what this whole experience is about.
Dinner was as good as ever, especially now that we had access to fresh olive oil and vinegar for our bread and salad courses. I had the Chicken Parmesan, which was fine, and an excellent but very, very rich Mississippi Mud Pie (homemade chocolate brownie and coffee ice cream) for dessert.
Sci-fi scenery on the Ohio. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
As we were finishing up dinner, the view had transformed itself from West Virginia’s foliage and quaintness to one of eastern Pennsylvania’s strangely unsettling nuclear power plants and its massive twin cooling towers. The towers’ scale (perhaps due to their proximity to the river) was breathtaking and in a purely architectural sense, they are built objects of intriguing, if ominous, beauty. I head up on deck for a look at them in the far distance, only to find a second plant with three towers looming directly over us.
Our next stop was the Engine Room Bar where Jackie Bankston (her deep throated laugh is like that other “Bank” belle, the legendary Tallulah Bankhead) sang 70s tunes and gave cruise director, Steve Spracklen, a chance to wow us again with his Ragtime piano playing. We would have loved to have heard more from him during this cruise! Jackie and Steve had the bar filled to the rafters, which indicates either they know how to please the crowd or the venue is too small (or both).
We returned to the Front Porch as AMERICAN QUEEN passed under more bridges and neared the outskirts of Pittsburgh. The temperature had dropped a bit but the bugs were thicker than ever. Finally, at midnight, it was time to return to the cabin, leave out the luggage and go to bed.
Reflections of a queen at Pittsburgh. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The lavish Owners Verandah Suite, 501 (facing forward) on forward Deck 5/Promenade Deck. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Working the carpet on the AQ. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The Natchez Suite (Vista Verandah Suite/Category AA — facing forward) on forward Deck 5/Promenade Deck. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
A category L/Inside Single on Deck 4/Observation Deck. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Tuesday, July 10, 2007: Our wake up call never rang, so we arose a half an hour later than planned and scrambled to vacate the cabin. Before the Uncommon Journeys coach would take us away from the AMERICAN QUEEN, there was a small window to photograph some cabins that had already been vacated and prepped for a new round of guests.
Midcentury modern (the brilliant I.W. Abel Building of 1964) meets modern gothic in Pittsburgh’s fascinating skyline. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Pittsburgh and its network of arch and suspension bridges were impressive in the hazy backlight of the morning sun. We stepped off the AQ and onto the coach to enjoy a tour of the city, an underrated gem in the pantheon of great American metropolises. From gothic cathedrals, art deco towers, and majestic midcentury modern aluminum and glass towers, Pittsburgh seemed so much larger than cities with three or four times its population of 370,000.
The William Penn Plaza Lobby. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Our next Uncommon destination was the landmark Omni William Penn Hotel, which was built in 1916. It’s grand ballroom, restaurant, and lobby are the land-locked equivalents of the palatial salons on Albert Ballin’s trio of liners built for Hamburg-Amerika Line or, perhaps, Cunard’s AQUITANIA.
AMERICAN QUEEN prior to departure from Pittsburgh.
Stern out, “crown” down.
The pivot in progress.
The downstream journey has begun. Photos and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
After lunch and exploring the town on foot, I head to the tip of Point State Park where the Monongahela and Allegheny Rivers converge to form the Ohio. Friend and ship photographer, Andy Kilk, was on hand to share in the documenting process of AMERICAN QUEEN’s departure. The whistle blew just before 6:00 PM, followed by Rosalinda’s calliope salute but the vessel remained tied up until close to 6:30 when her stern pivoted outward, the stacks were lowered and she backed toward us to complete her pivot and start her return journey to Cincinnati.
Meanwhile, the Uncommon Journeys group was enjoying a nice, cool cocktail party in the Penn’s lavish Urban Room. It had just finished by the time I returned, fully sweltered from my walk in the urban humidity.
AQUITANIA’s Palladin Lounge? No, but the Omni William Penn’s soaring restaurant will more than suffice! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The next morning, the group had breakfast in the hotel’s magnificent restaurant and head off on an excursion to Pennsylvania’s scenic countryside which saw visits to Fort Necessity (where the French and Indian War began), Uniontown and the stunning waterfall at Ohiopyle, as I made my way to the airport and various flights home.
The End
For more information, please contact Uncommon Journeys, 1-800-323-5893/1-510-836-6000, The Financial Center, 405 14th Street, Suite 1014, Oakland, California 94612
With very special thanks to: Barbara Abegglen, Mary Charlton, Martin Cox, Captain John Dugger, Jean Dunphy, Captain Joe Jamison, Christopher Kyte, Teresa Kyte, Steve Setser, Steve Spracklen, Angie Wilkinson, Carmen Winkler, Gywnne Zodrow
