Posted on Friday, August 31, 2007 by Peter Knego
Classic Cruising In the Aegean With Peter Knego
Aboard Monarch Classic Cruises MV BLUE MONARCH
and Golden Star Cruises SS AEGEAN TWO
Ocean Liner Fittings, Furniture and Art For Sale at MidShipCentury.com
Peter Knego Videos Link: ON THE ROAD TO ALANG and THE WORLD’s PASSENGER FLEET, Volume Nine
Monarch Classic Cruises MV BLUE MONARCH was built in 1966 by Chantiers de l’Atlantique at St. Nazaire, France for Compagnie Française de Navigation (aka Paquet) as the RENAISSANCE for Marseilles to Haifa voyages and cruising. She is shown above in her original form and livery. Her clean, modern lines (fore and aft bulwarks, superstructure and stern) were somewhat influenced by a prior Chantiers-built liner, the SS FRANCE of 1962. Peter Knego collection.
The BLUE MONARCH’s Aegean itinerary with kind permission of Marek Horvat of CruiseCharts.com
BLUE AEGEAN Blog, Part One: MV BLUE MONARCH Cruise
The El Greco Lounge, shown facing forward, still sports its original 1966 modern light fixtures. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Saturday, August 18, 2007:
I’m in the spacious El Greco Lounge aboard Monarch Classic Cruises’ delightful MV BLUE MONARCH. It is 11:30 AM and we have just cleared the Dardanelles, enroute from Piraeus to Istanbul. The coast of Turkey is visible through the port side picture windows as well as an ever changing panorama of westbound tankers, container ships and car carriers.
A view over one of the most lovely sterns in service, as BLUE MONARCH motors through the Dardanelles. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
On the starboard side, we have passed scores of colorful coasters and fishing vessels. Lurking off our stern is Louis Cruise Line’s PERLA (ex SOUTHWARD, SEAWING), which should be overtaking us this afternoon. The MONARCH is purring steadily forth, her pulse a vibrant combination of hard-working diesels and churning screws which have gently animated the retrofitted metal ceilings, coffee cups, water glasses, and light fixtures around me.
The lobby of the Hotel Glaros. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
This latest journey began three days ago in Los Angeles where I was reminded yet again of just how awful international air travel has become. All eastbound airline computer system failures, stressed flight attendants, cramped seating, distressing meals and crying babies had been endured and relegated to the memory banks by the late evening of Thursday, August 16, when my good friend, Christopher Kyte, and I finally reached Athens. An hour’s bus ride from El Venizelos Airport via the X96 (only 3.2 Euros) got us to central Piraeus, where the Hotel Glaros beckoned after a brisk ten or so block walk. For a mere 40 Euros per night, the Glaros offers basic, yet comfortable accommodation (a clean, single room with air conditioning, private w/c, television, free lobby WiFi access) in a great location adjacent to the port.
Telstar’s friendly Costas Papaconstantinou welcomes you to his sea of nautical books and periodicals. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Friday, August 17, 2007:
Although the alarm was set for 8:45, I found myself irretrieveably awake at 7:15, so took the opportunity to check e-mail and leisurely prepare for a busy morning. At 9:30, I filled a shopping bag full of DVDs and PAL VHS videos to deliver to one of my favorite maritime bookstores, Telstar, which is located at 57 Akti Miaouli (Piraeus’ main street) across from the port police station. A delicious assortment of nautical periodicals from SHIPS MONTHLY to SEA BREEZES and beautifully illustrated Greek publications share the shelves with the distinguished Carmania Press catalogue and an eclectic, international array of books covering every ship-oriented subject, from ferries in the Puget Sound to the great Atlantic liners.
HERMES, fading but still handsome, is the last ship to sport the stylized golden Epirotiki Byzantine cross on her funnel. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
AEGEAN GLORY at Piraeus. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
After a short visit with Telstar’s friendly proprietor, Costas Papaconstantinou, I crossed the street to get some views of the handsome HERMES (ex JUGOSLAVIA), which has spent the past two seasons in layup. Sadly, her days of pleasure cruises to the Saronic Gulf seem to have come to an end. She shares a lonely berth with the AEGEAN GLORY, her former competition, which also seems to be permanently unemployed. Further down the otherwise empty quay, the blue hulled ex Townsend-Thoresen ferry ROMILDA looked radiant in the morning sunshine.
At the main passenger terminal, the lineup included Louis Cruise Line’s pleasingly angular PERLA (ex SOUTHWARD, SEAWING), her fellow Knud E. Hansen-designed fleetmate ORIENT QUEEN (ex STARWARD, BOLERO), the newly-acquired CRISTAL (ex LEEWARD), and Golden Star Cruises’ ultra-stunning AEGEAN TWO (ex AUSONIA, THE IVORY — on charter from Louis).
I had an hour to grab a fantastically flaky tyropita and a glass of freshly-pressed orange juice and amble over to the tip of the Piraeus p
eninsula to photograph the 11:00 AM departures. An occasional breeze provided relief from the sticky, sweltering heat, which seems far less debilitating when surrounded by the always fascinating scenery of Piraeus. Vivid memories of ships like STELLA SOLARIS, ACHILLE LAURO and LA PALMA occupy now vacant berths with legendary liners like AUSTRALIS, ATHINAI, and AGAMEMNON. The dusty trees and sprawling hillside apartments have born witness to all of these great ships from eras past, my own private pantheon of floating Greco-Roman gods and goddesses.
It was not long before I encountered an interesting and eye-pleasing maritime gathering at the outer port, Kanellos, including Monarch Classic Cruises’ OCEAN MONARCH (ex PORT SYDNEY, DAPHNE, SWITZERLAND), BLUE MONARCH (ex RENAISSANCE, AWANI DREAM, etc.) and Iberojet’s GRAND VOYAGER (ex OLYMPIC VOYAGER, OLYMPIA VOYAGER). I continued my walk through a maze of streets and sleepy apartment blocks past the Naval Academy until reaching land’s end. I sat on the dusty sidewalk overlooking a rocky beach with my cameras poised through the iron railing, awaiting the first of the morning departures.
ORIENT QUEEN exits Piraeus. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
At 11:10, I heard a tinny whistle and could see a white mast passing through the skyline of trees and buildings near the port. The ORIENT QUEEN came into view, making her way through the breakwater and into Piraeus roads. With the sun illuminating her port side, she was almost blindingly white against the rocky backdrop of Salamis Island and the permeating blue of the Aegean. My cameras dutifully followed her out until my peripheral vision caught more movement in the port area.
The AEGEAN TWO is a vision in blue. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The distinctive tripod mast of AEGEAN TWO was next to appear, followed by the former Italian greyhound’s sculpted, finned blue funnel. Despite the expanded superstructure of her various 1980s refits, she is an absolutely stunning survivor of what (I feel) is the most aesthetically-pleasing era of ocean liner design, the late 1950s. Mykonos-bound, she quite literally followed in the wake of ORIENT QUEEN. The strikingly modern Minoan Line’s FESTOS PALACE was right behind, but my cameras were too engrossed with AEGEAN TWO to take much notice (No offense to the modern ferry, but unless something ill becomes of her, I will have many more opportunities to capture her in the future).
The OCEAN MONARCH, one of two mighty “monarchs” operated by Monarch Classic Cruises. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Another splendidly-aesthetic beauty, the OCEAN MONARCH was the next in the Piraeus procession, looking absolutely radiant in her fully realized Monarch Classic Cruises livery (when I sailed in this little enchantress last year, her plain blue funnel was begging for a logo and a matching blue, instead of maroon, hull stripe).
CRISTAL ends the morning procession. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Taking up the rear was the newcomer, Louis Cruises’ CRISTAL, which seemed a bit aesthetically-challenged in the pageant of classic beauties that preceded her.
Documentation complete, I walked back to the Glaros, stopping for a liter of water and a fresh spanikopita to consume on the way. I found Christopher outside the hotel, preparing to get his morning coffee and a cab back to the airport to hopefully intercept his delayed luggage.
BLUE MONARCH awaits! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The top category suites have a bit of an Asiatic look, dating from the ship’s refit as the AWANI DREAM. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
One of the BLUE MONARCH’s gorgeous Category A wood paneled suites. That’s the one, dear! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I got a cab to Kanellos where I had an appointment with BLUE MONARCH’s hotel director, John Knaggs (recently from SEAWING, now PERLA), to document various cabins before boarding began at 2:30. Chief steward, Spiros Christodoulatos, a veteran of such ships as APOLLON (ex EMPRESS OF CANADA) and STELLA SOLARIS cheerfully led me through the MONARCH’s accommodation, a rich variety of spaces from suites with separate sitting areas (largely remodeled in recent years) to handsome outsides with picture windows and inside quadruples. I had a few moments to wander the empty ship for a quick look at the public rooms, then disembarked to go through passport control and check in for our seven night “Golden Fleece” cruise.
BLUE MONARCH looks absolutely fetching in her dark blue hull livery. The new Monarch Classic Cruises logo on her slender, spiked funnel is the same ochre/gold as Epirotiki’s Byzantine cross. Structurally, she has changed little from the Epirotiki and Royal Olympic eras.
The funnel, from starboard Jupiter Deck. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The gym, facing port. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Starboard Hera Deck promenade, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The Hera Deck pool, facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I was happy to find the outer deck areas clean and well-maintained. Monarch Classic thoughtfully keeps the flying bridge platform open for those seeking a forward view in the scenic Aegean. For me, it was also a nice place to get views of the sculpted funnel in all its glory. Bridge/Jupiter Deck is covered in blue plastic surfacing and is largely used by officers and staff, although the passenger gym is located in the deckhouse underneath the funnel casing. Lovely, traditional teak promenades follow on either side of Hera Deck, leading to an awning-covered cafe with attractive wooden tables and chairs. Just beyond the cafe and underneath a streamlined goal post ventilator, the upper of two rectangular, teak-encased swimming pools overlooks the stern. There is a narrow terrace on aft Apollo Deck, leading down to the stern pool and a virtual sea of teak on Venus Deck. Canted railings reminiscent of those on the FRANCE, INDEPENDENCE, and CONSTITUTION, make this one of the most elegant looking fantails afloat.
BLUE MONARCH’s Casino, facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
An entirely random shot of the carpet at my feet in the El Greco Lounge. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The Internet Cafe, facing starboard. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The Wine Bar is a new addition. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Much like her precursor, Paquet’s ANCERVILLE of 1962 (currently landlocked in Shekou, China, as the vastly rebuilt SEA WORLD), the RENAISSANCE’s public rooms were situated aft of the accommodation on the two levels now known aboard BLUE MONARCH as Apollo and Venus Decks. On midships Apollo Deck, from port to starboard, there is a small casino, the photo gallery and a duty free shop, leading to the El Greco lounge (originally the RENAISSANCE’s Grand Salon, which spans the full width of the ship and serves as the showroom and muster station. It is served by a bar on its forward starboard side and there is a large dance floor and band stand aft. On its aft port side, there is a newly-added Internet center, followed by a wine bar. On the aft starboard side, there is a children’s playroom.
The Cinema, facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The Disco, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
A dedicated cinema with its original, stylish French seating is directly below on midships Venus Deck, followed on the starboard side by the Disco, which was originally the Cafe de Paris.
The embarkation lobby, facing port. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The Dining Room, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The entry lobby and restaurant are located on Dionysos Deck and occupy the same footprint as the original dining room and lobby, although both have been considerably remodeled over the years.
Our comfortable cabin, AFS-11, facing port. Photo and copyright Peter
Knego 2007.
Our comfortable cabin, AFS-11, is located on port Apollo Deck, just aft of the modular accommodation added in the ship’s early Epirotiki days. It features a brass picture window, two narrow berths, original wooden dressers and a tiled bathroom with shower. It’s location is perfect, with almost instant access to the El Greco Lounge or the open deck above.
Check in was informal and painless. After obtaining my ticket and boarding card, I proceeded to various counters to get my security photo and my passport stamped and exchanged for a voucher before skipping the welcome on board photo. A nice touch was the friendly staff, who circulated through the terminal to offer cold water and juice to the newly embarking passengers.
I was relieved to run into Christopher in the embarkation lobby, who had just arrived with errant luggage in hand, following his journey to the airport. We had time to grab a bite at the embarkation buffet before the BLUE MONARCH readied to sail. There was a nice assortment of salads, cheeses, pasta, chicken, fish, and meat.
Smoke over Piraeus. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I felt the sun searing through the layers of my ungainly hat, wraparound sunglasses and sticky sun screen as we awaited departure from the flying bridge. Once the gangway was hauled up and the lines loosened, the ship took no time in backing out of the Kanellos basin into the main shipping channel. She made a very skilled maneuver under the watchful eye of veteran captain, Nikos Eleftheriou, who was in command of OCEAN MONARCH during my three night cruise last October.
Those lovely goal posts from Hera Deck. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Facing forward from the fantail. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
As the BLUE MONARCH entered the Mistral-whipped Aegean, mandatory boat drill was held in the all-accommodating El Greco Lounge. After that, there was time for us to wander around the outer decks, linger in a deck chair and watch the rugged scenery and passing ferries before open seating dinner in the restaurant. My courses included stracciatella soup, garden salad with fresh olive oil and vinegar, and eggplant parmesan with some very tasty vanilla ice cream for dessert.
During the bazouki performance by Kosta from Bulgaria, I could feel the waves of jet lag rolling in. Suddenly, despite my thorough enjoyment of such acts (I’ll take a good bazouki player over Andrew Lloyd Weber, loquacious cruise directors and spinning stages any day!), it was time to get some rest.
For some reason, my slothenly morning sleep-ins have become a thing of the past. Today, like clockwork, I sprang out of my deep sleep and immediately parted the curtains to our window to see if anything of interest was floating by. Then, I was out on the terrace to enjoy a wind-swept breakfast and the beginning of our passage through the Dardanelles.
End of Part One
BLUE Blog, Part Two
Saturday, August 18, 2007, ctd.:
The rest of the afternoon was dedicated to writing and getting some exercise, which meant a clackety twenty minutes on the ship’s elliptical machine and some stretches on the floor of the sun parched and shaded gym. Between sets, I would walk out to get some wind chill and watch for the PERLA, which was supposed to pass us somewhere in the Sea of Marmara. She was a barely visible speck on the stern’s horizon, playing hide and seek in the low-lying haze.
Istanbul ahead! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Masts and minarets. The WINDSTAR, unfurled in all her glory, sails past one of the world’s most spectacular skylines. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Soon, the sprawl of Istanbul came into view, prompting me to take a quick shower and gather the cameras for what always promises to be a satisfying photo op. As we neared the entrance to the Bosphorus, the WINDSTAR was hoisting her sails and heading out on our port side.
Gorgeous in any livery, the former Swedish American OCEANIC II is the Greta Garbo of cruise ships. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The BLUE MONARCH continued up along the Asian side of the waterway, assisted by a tug, turning toward the European shore across from the Ciragan Palace Hotel and back downstream toward the passenger terminal, where an excellent line up included the CLUB MED 2, the ultra gorgeous OCEANIC II (ex KUNGSHOLM, SEA PRINCESS, VICTORIA, MONA LISA — needing some paint to refresh all the tug marks on her starboard waterline!), an interesting Black Sea coastal vessel of apparent mid-1960s origin and Celebrity’s towering, angular GALAXY. The diminutive SEA DREAM I (ex SEA GODDESS I) was billowing a cloud of orange-hued diesel smoke as she prepared to depart from the shadows beyond the GALAXY’s stern. BLUE MONARCH took the berth closest to the Golden Horn, a few hundred yards away from the famed Galata Bridge, facing the backlit minarets of Suliymanye Mosque. A wonderful crescent moon hung high in the afternoon sky, its image set in the occasional billowing red flags around us.
Late but radiant, the PERLA makes her entrance. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
BLUE MONARCH at the head of the Istanbul line up. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
After documenting the arrival of the rather late PERLA, Christopher and I decided we would try to take one of the handsome little Turkish Maritime ferries to Istinye, a delightful little hamlet on the Bosphorus beyond the second of the two great suspension bridges. We walked across the Galata Bridge and arrived at the ferry terminal to learn that there were no more departures, so decided we would take one of the Bosphorus sightseeing cruises. We did our best to avoid a wild-eyed, sun-parched man in a bright green shirt as we stood in line for what we learned would be a four hour excursion on a densely packed boat with loud electro dance music. Our persistent, twitching friend told us “his” tour was only an hour, so we followed him to an adjacent jetty and boarded a clapped out boat, which was refreshingly empty, and waited. And waited. Meanwhile, like Noah’s Ark on a rainy day, our fellow passengers filed on board, two by two, most with unfiltered cigarettes, to fill every square inch of our battered, bobbing craft.
Night Club: the CLUB MED 2, as seen from a densely packed deck, smothered in swirling smoke. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
An hour went by before the boat finally left, sputtering up to the first Bosphorus Bridge before feebly turning back to mercifully disgorge us. The ensuing dining experience was only a bit less exasperating, making our return to the relaxed and comfortable BLUE MONARCH all the more satisfying.
Night Gallery
The Golden Horn from a BLUE point of view. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Such finely sculpted masts are a thing of the past. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Spiked funnel! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Over the stern from Hera Deck. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Only about 50 people were on board, allowing us a nice opportunity to wander the open decks and take some night shots.
Sunday, August 19, 2007:
INSIGNIA makes her mark on Istanbul. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Having been to Istanbul several times (most recently, this past May), I really did not need to do much exploring. Although it is one of my favorite cities in the world to wander, the heat and humidity was, by 9:00 AM, stifling. So, Christopher (who never needs convincing to visit an Internet Cafe) and I head off to find the nearest available WiFi hot spot. As we started to leave the ship, Oceania Cruises’ INSIGNIA was arriving, so we stopped for a minute to get some footage for a future video project.
Greetings from the sweltering shade of Cafe Milano! Photo by Christopher Kyte, copyright Peter Knego 2007.
We finally located a friendly place in the midst of a cafe complex with colorful outdoor bean bag seating called Cafe Milano, and settled on a shaded terrace with Turkish coffee, cappuccinos and water. Four hours later and a bit crumpled, it was time to return to the ship.
Gentleman and Master Mariner, Captain Eleftheriou, assisted by the Istanbul pilot, guides BLUE MONARCH out of her berth. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Captain Eleftheriou invited us to the bridge for the 2:00 PM sailaway. He and the pilot guided us out stern first, allowing the BLUE MONARCH to pivot fully around and head up stream past the GALAXY, PERLA (which when new, neither of us realized just how exquisitely sculpted her lines would seem in the boxy new millennium), OCEANIC II, INSIGNIA and CLUB MED 2.
Finned and furious, the GALAXY racing through the Sea of Marmara. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Once past the panorama of Topkapi, Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque, I dragged the cameras up to the gym for a tortured workout with occasional br
eaks to see whether CLUB MED 2 or GALAXY would overtake us before we reached the Dardanelles. GALAXY obliged, passing a half mile or so off our port side, looking imposing and shark-like in the mild chop of the Sea of Marmara.
The captain’s cocktail party was in the El Greco Lounge at 7:00 PM. We showed up toward the end and had a quick visit with the captain before he had to return to the bridge for the Dardanelles passage. We enjoyed a table for four with Yana and Dimitri from Chiliabinsk, near Yekaterinberg, Russia, who were a part of group of twelve visitors from the former Soviet republic.
The show was entitled “Broadway” but I fizzled out half way through and returned to the cabin and an early night’s sleep.
Monday, August 19, 2007:
Again, awake at 7:15! If only I could do this at home…
Breakfast time in the Helios Bar. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I made a quiet exit and head for buffet breakfast in the Helios Bar, where the sliced tomatoes are always brilliant, mixed with olives, cucumber, and feta cheese — no dressing required. The only thing I am missing each morning on the BLUE MONARCH is some authentic Greek yogurt, although there is honey for the cow kind. Otherwise, the fresh fruit, muesli and occasional egg have kept me satiated.
Sur la pont…..(enroute to) Lavrion. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
“Santa Fe” and my daily cappuccino, aways served with a smile. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I spent some time writing from my usual El Greco corner where friendly Fe Famularcanio served me a cappuccino, then went to visit Captain Eleftheriou, where we were able to reminisce and catch up over some more cappuccino before he was due back on the bridge to bring the BLUE MONARCH into Lavrion. His office is paneled in warm woods and even features an original photo mural of a French chateau from the ship’s Paquet days.
Leaving Lavrion, with the ex Renaissance CLELIA II and DREAM (ex TKI KARADENIZ) in the backdrop. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Lavrion is a rather charmless port and not part of the regular itinerary, but a large group of Chinese passengers was due to embark during our short “technical” call.
Time to sign off as BLUE MONARCH sails onward to Mykonos, where there is hopefully a fast WiFi connection…
Yanni, our cabin attendant, hails from Fourni, an island in the eastern Aegean. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
A gentle wind whipped along the upper decks as BLUE MONARCH passed a white stucco village on rocky Tinos. The ship saluted with a vigorous blast of her whistle, giving the small gathering on the flying bridge a good startle. In the distance, serene Mykonos beckoned. Large white specs at the new terminal gradually revealed themselves as CRISTAL and PERLA. Behind us, the OCEAN MONARCH and AEGEAN TWO approached steadily. The BLUE MONARCH came to a stop just off the breakwater near Mykonos town and soon the rattling of the bow anchors resonated throughout the ship. We obtained our tender tickets and waited on the after decks to watch the other two classic ladies approach. The OCEAN MONARCH anchored a mile or so away, leaving space for the AEGEAN TWO between us. The iridescent blue water was possibly the calmest I have seen in this normally windy hamlet, reflecting the golden afternoon sun, the gray brown rocks and the glaring white of the buildings in the cove.
Local tender boats, most painted pale blue and white, came alongside, each puttering off with a full load of passengers. We joined one of the last so that I could find the right spot (in this case, the starboard stern) to get some good footage of the BLUE MONARCH. Since I was shooting into the sun, I was only able to capture the gist of her slender silhouette.
The luxury charter yacht, LADY K II, enters Mykonos’ old harbor. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Shortly after we landed, a rather stunning yacht, the LADY K II, sailed into the old harbor.
Mykonos town in the afternoon light. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
A couple hours at the Stairs Cafe (where the WiFi connection varies) helped me catch up on the blog but basically curtailed any wandering through Mykonos town. I’ve lost track of how many times I have visited this bit of Greek paradise but I hope one day that the weather and/or timing will allow me to escape to one of its legendary beaches for a dip in the Aegean.
Twilight of the goddesses. OCEAN MONARCH and AEGEAN TWO light up Mykonos. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
By 9:30, Christopher and I were ready for dinner, so we settled in at one of the local cafes and ordered some chicken souvlaki. Unfortunately, by the time it was ready, we had to leave for the ship, so we took it away in containers and eventually ate it with our fingers in the Helios Bar area, having caught the last tender from shore.
BLUE MONARCH at night. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I’m sure the BLUE MONARCH looked radiant as she slowly motored out of the anchorage, but our view of the twinkling AEGEAN TWO and OCEAN MONARCH was sheer (quite literally) heaven.
The moon descended toward the horizon and turned a blood red hue, lingering directly over the PERLA, which followed us on a northeasterly course toward Kusadasi. There was a festive Limbo party in the Helios Bar as we glided through the silky sea, but once again, I began to fade. As I walked back to the cabin it was really tangible just how much fuller the ship seemed since taking on nearly 200 more passengers during our calls at Istanbul and Lavrion.
Tuesday, August 21, 2007:
Blog All-Stars, BLUE MONARCH (left) and AEGEAN TWO together at Kusadasi. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Poor Christopher. There was no stirring him after he endured a sleepless night. Apparently the new occupants of the cabin aft of us are loud and shrill and seem not to need sleep. So, at 6:45, I headed up to deck to see what ships were going to join us for the morning at Kusadasi. There was a gold-tinged lavender sunrise ahead of us, the CRISTAL and OCEAN MONARCH to our starboard and the “just can’t take my eyes off of” AEGEAN TWO steaming in behind us. More digital delight.
As soon BLUE MONARCH tied up, most of our fellow passengers were swept into local tour buses for what would surely be a fascinating, if wilting visit to Ephesus. I enjoyed a quick breakfast on deck (kudos to the friendly egg chefs who deliver my “over easies” to my table). After depleting the stores of tomatoes, olives, feta, and cucumber, I gathered my cameras and head out into Kusadasi and along its crescent of beach to get some perfectly lit views of the BLUE MONARCH and her berth-mate, AEGEAN TWO. What a lovely sight, a miniature 1960s French liner and a miniature 1950s Italian liner. It could only happen in this very place and time.
On the distant horizon, RCI’s SPLENDOUR OF THE SEAS was approaching, her shiny green glass, balconies, rock climbing wall, and towering slab sides making all but the boxy CRISTAL feel like polar bears on melting sheets of ice.
I went back on board to retrieve my laptop, arriving at the terminal’s internet center just as it opened at 8:30. A good ninety minutes in a nice air conditioned room with crew members hastily typing e-mails to family and friends would allow me a chance to update the blog and hopefully free my shoulders and mind of the internet in Patmos this afternoon.
I returned to the ship in time for a cappuccino, again courtesy of the delightful Fe, and then darted back and forth between the stern and the bridge to see who would sail first. An army of passengers marched off the SPLENDOUR’s gangway as a gaggle of Turkish musicians in red folkloric garb saluted them. A whistle blew, perhaps the OCEAN MONARCH’s? Who could tell with the behemoth SPLENDOUR blocking the view?
The wheelhouse, facing port. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Vintage gauche in the BLUE MONARCH’s wheelhouse. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I took the opportunity to document the lovely BLUE MONARCH’s wheelhouse, with its angled windows and original French panels and instruments. Captain E. introduced me to the friendly Turkish pilot and then pointed out his pretty wife, Deborah, who was on the starboard Hera Deck promenade with their angelic daughter, Rania. I said a quick hello between whistle blasts, continuing my treks between the flying bridge and stern as the easily-traversed BLUE MONARCH backed out and followed the CRISTAL to Patmos. The OCEAN MONARCH and AEGEAN TWO were not far behind.
Sadly, I missed the PERLA pass us in the narrows an hour or so later while I was the cabin. Christopher, who seems utterly shocked that he is now a fan of this former “wedge” ship (and has joined a “Friends of PERLA W” support group), said she looked magnificent.
I hear the anchors rumbling, so must head up to deck to document our arrival at Patmos. More soon..
Tuesday, August 21, 2007, ctd.
Louis Cruises’ PRINCESA MARISSA arrives. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
AEGEAN TWO for me and you! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
As we settled into position, the unexpected PRINCESA MARISSA aproached from the south. Apparently, her draft will allow her to berth in Patmos’ small harbor, so she slid past us and sailed into the backlit basin to join, surprise, the CRISTAL. From the north, the OCEAN MONARCH and AEGEAN TWO approached, joining the BLUE MONARCH in their weekly dance.
A perfect 3/4 BLUE. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Chris and I got a seat on the aft/starboard side of the little tender boat, which swooshed past the sunlit port side of the BLUE MONARCH. Her sharp, elegant lines were at their very best in a dramatic 3/4 waterline view. The overall panorama of three classic liners in paradise was, for this ship enthusiast, surreal.
Patmos pastoral. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Modeling with my models. Photo by Christopher Kyte, copyright Peter Knego 2007.
A
fter enjoying a honey yogurt in a sidewalk cafe, Chris and I took a scenic walk along the winding hillside road for a few studies of the gathering of the former AUSONIA, RENAISSANCE and DAPHNE, which looked like a row of finely detailed Mercator models in the still waters of the anchorage.
MONARCH to MONARCH One. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Patmos sunset. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007
I returned to the BLUE just in time to miss first seating dinner in lieu of standing atop the flying bridge and documenting the paradise, both floating and stationary, around me: a golden sunset over the bow; the floodlit Monastery of St. John at the top of the mountain to port; and the AEGEAN TWO and OCEAN MONARCH aglow and dressed in beaded running lights.
MONARCH to MONARCH Two. You can’t “danae” the former DAPHNE is a beautiful sight! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Captain Eleftheriou mans the bow thrusters. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Greek night in the El Greco. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
CRISTAL moon. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The exit parade began with the MARISSA, followed by OCEAN MONARCH and her BLUE fleetmate. I’m not sure who followed next, CRISTAL, or AEGEAN TWO but in the late evening, after a wonderful Greek night show in the El Greco, under a now half moon hovering over Homer’s wine dark sea, CRISTAL overtook us. Far off our stern, the OCEAN and AEGEAN were like dim, setting stars on the horizon. We would all meet again in the morning.
End of Part Two
BLUE Blog, Part Three
Wednesday, August 22, 2007:
ZENITH on the horizon in Rhodes roads. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
At 6:45 AM, I parted the curtain to a misty lilac glow over the barren promontories of Asia Minor. Rhodes was near.
I grabbed the cameras and head to the flying bridge as the sun rose just off our port bow. Off the starboard bow, in the roads, Pullmantur’s ZENITH lingered like a sharp-edged shoe box behind the far more graceful silhouette of OCEAN MONARCH. In the distance, AEGEAN TWO was berthing in the crescent-shaped outer harbor while the old terminal near Rhodos town was occupied by PERLA, AIDA CARA, and CRISTAL.
French face with a Greek “lift”. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
BLUE bell. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I went to the bridge to observe the maneuvers and was welcomed by now familiar faces, including Captain E, Staff Captain Nikolaos, Chief Officer Themis and Maria Panopoulou, the Chief Safety Officer. With the harbor at almost full capacity, we were in a holding pattern, so the good captain asked me if now was a good time to obtain my coveted “face shot”. With the sun directly ahead and its light evolving from grainy pink to gold, the timing was perfect. I was escorted down into the linoleum land of crew territory for my quick visit to the foc’s’le head to face the ship’s elegant (despite the modular addition) structure. It’s all about those gently canted wings and the angled wheelhouse windows. A delightful discovery was the original bell, with “RENAISSANCE 1966” arced across its face.
What a kisser! AIDA CARA at Rhodes. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Once back on the bridge, I heard the ZENITH’s pilot being ordered to bring the ship to her berth next to a US naval ship on the very end of the remote breakwater. Soon, we followed, sailing in past the backlit ZENITH, AEGEAN TWO, and, at mere yards distance, OCEAN MONARCH. Although it was tempting to disembark with the other passengers, the captain had told me OCEANIC II was due in at 10:00, so I kept a vigil at the
stern, watching as various hydrofoils, a Blue Star ferry and the fascinatingly ungainly ANTHI MARINA kept the turquoise harbor waters stirred up. I eventually ran into sleepy Christopher, who had awoke too late for breakfast, in our usual El Greco corner, nurturing a duet of cappuccinos.
Garbo returns! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Finally, the faintly lit OCEANIC II appeared in the northwestern roads, like a shy, introspective Garbo, reluctant to enter the bustling harbor. She lingered for an aching eternity, as my neck and arms were singed to a shade of dark Navajo on yet another oppressively hot morning. Finally, a ripple at her bow indicated forward movement. Persistence paid off as she made a regal entrance in perfect sunlight, occupying a berth across the basin.
It was too hot to linger on the dock as we awaited the noon shuttle, which dropped us off across from CRISTAL at the main terminal. We entered the magnificent walled town of Rhodos with its mix of Greco Roman, Byzantine and Medieval architecture. With all the ships in port, it was bustling with humanity. We wandered the maze of cobblestone streets, staying under shaded awnings as much as possible until we found a nice little cafe with a gentle breeze to enjoy a chicken skewer.
From there, it was off to the Mythos Cafe, one of the few internet places in Rhodos town, where my Mac Powerbook was seemingly incompatible with their ethernet connection. As I left Christopher to find another option, the cafe’s owners quietly advised me to try sitting outside, where an occasional WiFi signal could be intercepted. Wonderfully, I found the fastest connection of the week, so I sat, having to turn my legs to either side as wide cars meandered past, and updated this journal, fortified with another frothy cappuccino and a glass of ice water.
On the road in Rhodes. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
We had time to wander the shopping area, but the heat and heavy laptops led to an early retreat to the ship. There was a moment to stop and photograph the pretty PERLA and the interesting and not-unpleasant looking AIDA CARA before climbing aboard the shuttle back to the BLUE MONARCH. Even the Turks and Greeks were exasperated by the heat, as we made the short journey back to the ship.
ZENITH in Pullmantur livery at Rhodes. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
An ever-brilliant sail-away found the BLUE MONARCH skillfully maneuvering out of the harbor and doing a 180-degree pivot across from the now perfectly lit ZENITH before heading into the slight chop of the Aegean on a westward course to Heraklion. The lovely coastline of Rhodes was visible out the cabin window for the next hour or so as we prepared for dinner.
Our first and possibly only formal sit down meal at table 42 (for two), with full service in the dining room proved to be a pleasing experience. Our waiter, Leopoldo, was friendly and flawless. He made sure the water was filled and brought each course quickly and with a smile. I ordered just about everything I could eat, from a smoked salmon appetizer to chicken broth soup, a fresh green salad (with handy olive oil and vinegar), tender yakitori chicken (Japanese food on a Greek ship, why not?), a vegetarian mousakka, and some really good vanilla ice cream. Since it was captain’s farewell night, there was a Baked Alaska and swizzler parade to endure, but it was nice to see that both passengers and dining staff seemed to be enjoying the process.
Good Bye from Captain E. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
We made it to the rather full El Greco for the farewell cocktail party where Captain E. gave a very heartfelt farewell. A Turkish lady Christopher met early on in the cruise invited us to join her husband and her in one of the few vacant seating areas, offering us some fresh almonds and pistachios from Istanbul. When the staff marched in with flags from every country represented by the multi-national crew and performed “We Are The World”, she welled up a bit and said, “This is good! People! Together!” I gave her a high-spirited high-five and we had a mutual toast to peace and prosperity.
Yuliana, the “white rose” of Bulgaria. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The show, “A Journey Around the World” in song, had the entertainment staff singing and kicking it up, covering everything, from an earnest and almost operatic “Danny Boy” by talented Liverpool-based singer James to Turkish folk songs and even a Chinese traditional dance. Yuliana, a sultry, Bulgarian Cameron Diaz, paired up with Kostas, the bazouki player and the ship’s electric violinist for one of the most exotic gatherings I have seen on a shipboard stage.
Even late at night under the stars on Hera Deck, the air was thick and hot, but not enough to prevent Christopher and me from enjoying a chat about our ever less divergent political persuasions as the BLUE MONARCH gently rolled in the slight swells.
Thursday, August 23:
I arose at 8:30 AM, having had a rare good night’s sleep, to find BLUE MONARCH in not terribly scenic Heraklion, Crete. The colorful OCEAN VILLAGE (ex SITMAR FAIRMAJESTY, STAR PRINCESS, ARCADIA) was off our starboard bow in a line up that included Minoan Line’s FESTOS PALACE and Anek Line’s KRITI. On the other side of the quay, across a dusty parking lot, lay our old friend OCEAN MONARCH. Just behind her was the GOLDEN PRINCE, which once sailed for Epirotiki as the APOLLON. Further off on the south side of the harbor entrance were AEGEAN TWO and PERLA.
I wandered off to take some photos of the various ships, returning at 9:30 to find the breakfast buffet in Helios Bar completely closed up. Mea culpa for not reading the program, but it was a bit frustrating to watch staff being served eggs, cereal and yogurt after I was turned away.
Bella Maria. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
As we pulled away at 10:30, the wind caught my hat and blew it down to the very edge of the deck house beneath the bridge. Valiant Maria, the chief safety officer, made a quick dash and rescued it before it became a part of the Aegean landscape. As this unattractive but very useful prop of mine has been just about everywhere with me for the past three years, I was truly gratified, enough to assuage Maria’s unfortunate news that the chief engineer called off my quick visit to the engine and control room, after all. I remember this pretty lady with the golden hair from a cruise in Royal Olympic’s OLYMPIC (ex EMPRESS OF BRITAIN, QUEEN ANNA MARIA) in 1997 when she was a new cadet.
A cappuccino and writing time in the El Greco ensued before Christopher and I ascended to the heat of Helios to fix my blood sugar with a double helping of Greek salad. Now we are entering the spectacular caldera of Santorini, so this will continue at the the next available opportunity.
Thursday, August 23, 2007, ctd.:
Santorini ahead! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
After the first wave of tenders came alongside to take passengers on tour to the archaeological site, BLUE MONARCH slowly motored toward the anchorage beneath the mighty cliffs, passing WINDSTAR and OCEANIC II. AIDA CARA was laying further down the caldera while the wonderful “usuals”, PERLA, CRISTAL, OCEAN MONARCH, and AEGEAN TWO followed us in. Words defy the beauty of Santorini: the waters are the most breathtaking of blues and the cliffs are bathed in light. Despite the multicolored stucco of Thira Town at its top (which looked so much more fetching when just painted blue and white), its stark, serene beauty is a conduit to the ancients and the most mysterious of natural wonders.
Even my reverence for Santorini’s beauty could not hold up against the heat and the bustling crowd cued up for the cable car to the top. This scenic spot is just not capable of comfortably accommodating all the cruise ships that descend upon it in peak season. Thankfully, although there were seven ships in port, none of them were megaships with 2,500 to 3,000 passengers to discharge.
A scenic spot in lovely Thira Town. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
A caldera full of lovely ladies. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Chris and I enjoyed a nice chicken souvlaki dinner with a partially obstructed view on top, then came down to cue up for the tender back to BLUE MONARCH. Unlike previous visits where my ship stayed at one of the anchorage spots, most of the visiting vessels were moving about the caldera or, like AEGEAN TWO, exiting it entirely and returning to retrieve everyone before leaving.
The PEARL of Santorini. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Back on the bridge, I was given a taste of a mildly sweet and seedy cactus fruit picked from the cliffs beyond our bow. Captain E. pointed to the spot where SEA DIAMOND sank this past Spring, some four buoys past the main anchorage. Although we were scheduled to depart at 7:15, a group of forty or so passengers were stuck in the line at the top, not reaching the ship on the final tender until 8:15. By then, the skies had dimmed, revealing stars, the moon, and a glittering line up of some of the most interesting and beautiful ships in the world. BLUE MONARCH was the first to part company with the gathering, making her way through moderate seas to Piraeus.
I hate the melancholy of the final night on any cruise. Packing and good byes are both unpleasant necessities. One hopes to encounter the friends made on such trips in the future, but life usually has other things in store. Hopefully, next year, the good captain and his crew will be with BLUE MONARCH or another fine vintage ship worth experiencing. But will I ever see that nice couple from Chiliabinsk, that imposing but adorable Turkish lady, sweet “Santa Fe” or any of the other faces from the past week again?
End of BLUE Blog
Very special thanks: Mr. Yiannis A. Angelopoulos, Spiros Christodoulatos, Martin Cox, Captain Nikos Eleftheriou, Captain Nikos Giannokopoulos, Darakis Georgios, Stephanie Kokkali, Christopher Kyte, Chantal Lundgren, Giorgios Nakos, Staff Captain Nikolaos, Maria Panopoulou
