Posted on Friday, August 31, 2007 by Peter Knego
AEGEAN Blog: SS AEGEAN TWO Cruise
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Golden Star Cruises SS AEGEAN TWO was built in 1957 for Adriatica Line as the AUSONIA, in many respects a miniature maritime follow up to Italia’s ANDREA DORIA/CRISTOFORO COLOMBO duo and a precursor to Italia’s LEONARDO DA VINCI. She is shown above as built for Adriatica’s Venice to Alexandria and Beirut liner service. Peter Knego collection.
AEGEAN Blog, Part One
Friday, August 24, 2007:
Sleep was elusive at best last night, so when the alarm buzzed at 6:45, I was ready for it. We headed up to the BLUE MONARCH’s buffet for our final breakfast, collected our passports and walked down to the terminal (B) to get our luggage. A shuttle bus took us to the main terminal (A) where we were able to utilize the free WiFi to get e-mail and work on the blog.
At 9:00, we walked to the other end of the terminal to embark AEGEAN TWO. It was great to see Golden Star Cruises’ rep, Chantal Lundgren, an effervescent young Audrey Hepburn, who gave us a warm and enthusiastic welcome.
Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Nicolo Costanzi, the brilliant Italian architect behind ships like GALILEO GALILEI, EUGENIO C, and OCEANIC, would be proud to know his AUSONIA has had such a successful and long career. Aside from the vintage characteristics and design elements that personally excite me, the ship, now the AEGEAN TWO, is a marvel of functionality and quality construction.
The Athena Deck pool, facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The wraparound promenade on Bahia Deck, facing forward along the starboard side. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Midship stairs, facing up. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
She has a nice lido area (with a typically mid-century Italian egg-shaped pool in an obtuse basin), a large whirlpool, a large forward observation deck, a full wraparound promenade, tastefully decorated public rooms (redone from the brilliant original Nino Zoncada interiors in the mid-1980s by the respectable Studio de Jorio of Milan). Gone are rooms full of angular furniture, acres of linoleum, and jaw-dropping artwork by the usual Italian “ship of state” stable of maestros (Luzzati, Moscherini, Majoli, and Paulucci). In their place is a line up of rooms with pleasingly restrained and tasteful decor that is on par with or better than most public rooms on today’s mega ships. The cabins range from plush former first class suites with original wood paneling and vintage fixtures to remodeled suites and comfortable, if basic insides. She was built as a small ocean liner and has made the transition to classic cruise ship beautifully. Her owners, Louis Cruise Lines, keep her in excellent cosmetic and operating condition and her charterers, Golden Star, have staffed her with one of the friendliest and most accommodating crews in the Aegean. This little jewel of a ship is “doomed” in 2010, thanks to SOLAS, but I hope that Golden Star will continue their charter up until the very last.
Port Bahia Deck passage, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Cabin 39, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
We stepped into the purser’s lobby on Corfu Deck 6, where I was immediately relieved of my laptop and back pack by a friendly steward who escorted us to Cabin 39 on Bahia Deck 7, up one level on the forward stairtower (which still has elements of its original Zoncada design) and aft along the port passageway past rows of honey-hued wooden doors offset by the pleasing powder blue bulkheads. Our cabin is an unusual configuration with two single beds each in its own fore to aft compartment underneath a classic Italian arched window. There are two large closets, a large bathroom, stylish dressers next to each bed, and best of all, a sea of glowing birch, cherry wood, and mahogany to knock on for the next three days.
We visited the friendly maitre’d, Georgios Stivaktas, who gave us a table for two, first sitting, then wandered about. I was so happy to see that Christopher agrees about AEGEAN TWO: “Our wood paneled cabin, the restrained colors in the dining room and lounges, the cheerful staff, delicious food and beautiful architecture are among the many features I already love about this ship.”
Kontiki, facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Discovery Lounge, facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Candid carpet. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Our first stop was the Kontiki Club, where we had our morning cappuccinos, then down to the Discovery Lounge, which was part of a modular section added to the ship in her 1980s rebuilding. It is a study in pale turquoise, white, and brushed steel and has a bar with private alcoves at its entrance.
The Orangerie, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Pharoah’s Restaurant, facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Voyager Bar and Nightclub, facing starboard. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The Casino, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The Orangerie was originally the starboard promenade and is now a winter garden of sorts, traversing the length of the handsome Pharoah’s Restaurant to link fore and aft parts of the ship. At the front of the restaurant is a large embarkation lobby which continues forward to the elliptically shaped Voyager Room and the Casino and shops on the starboard side. A dedicated Cinema is down two levels on Ephesus Deck, which also contains a gym.
Opening and closing the solid wooden cabinets and drawers in Cabin 39 was such a pleasure as I unpacked, then we both headed up to deck to watch the sailing. OCEAN MONARCH was the first one out, leaving the Kanellos basin earlier than her scheduled 11:00 departure time. CRISTAL, which was just ahead of us, thrust out and pivoted away. Then, as tugs guided AEGEAN TWO from her berth, the friendly PERLA made a quick exit, posing with her current and former fleetmate, ORIENT QUEEN, before exchanging salutes with the AEGEAN TWO. Melting like Icarus in the incessant sun, I sought shelter in the covered promenade, propped my cameras on some solid mahogany caprail, and enjoyed the beautiful sail-away.
Buffet, olé! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Christopher and I wanted to enjoy lunch in the dining room and were early enough to secure a lovely table on the port side against the full length windows. The courses were beautifully presented and tasty, but we craved some of the alternative and authentic Greek salads and cuisine at the buffet. I think Christopher has finally been enlightended to the pleasures of stewed eggplant, green beans, and tomatoes.
MaritimeMatters aboard the AEGEAN TWO. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
What a window and what a view! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Storm in the Aegean. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Over the stern and into the Aegean. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I returned to the cabin to cuddle up with the laptop and enjoy the creaking of the woodwork and the high pitched gentle hum of those CRDA turbines while I tried to get up to date on this rather blovious blog. We began to pitch and roll noticeably, encountering some fierce seas (a Force 7) about half way to Mykonos. I went up top to witness Poseidon’s fury as rollers slammed into our port side, sending spray over the boats. On the starboard side, a rainbow of mist glowed in the sun as our sturdy little liner, which was designed to cross such seas, plowed onward. It was far more intense than my Drake Passage crossing last February and only lasted about two hours before we were in the lee of Tinos.
The staff and crew of AEGEAN TWO are engaging and eager to please. There is a palpable sense of pride and caring on this vessel, which is spotless and even smells fresh and clean. In every possible aspect, I love this ship!!!
EASY CRUISE ONE in her updated livery at Mykonos. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
As we neared Mykonos another excellent, if familiar, gathering awaited us. OCEANIC II lay at the terminal with the little EASY CRUISE ONE (sporting her tempered down livery of gray and orange). The GRAND VOYAGER crossed our bow and anchored off our port side. To starboard, the OCEAN MONARCH was dropping anchor. As the rattling of the winches began, tenders came alongside to take us to shore. By the time we arrived via bus (7 euros round trip) in Mykonos town, we only had two hours before the last bus back to the tender at 10:15. We sat on the terrace of the Blue Blue Club and had a drink with a twilight view of the bay, refreshed by the moderate breeze. It was a warm night in Mykonos, but still significantly cooler than our visit the prior week. Some blogging with Blue Blue’s fast WiFi connection and a quick, delicious chicken gyro were all we had time for before we returned to the AEGEAN TWO.
Through the curtains of the Discovery Lounge, we could see the lights of OCEAN MONARCH and OCEANIC II as AEGEAN TWO slowly made her way out of Mykonos harbor. The seas picked up agai
n, but not to the extent we experienced earlier. We decided to see the show, “Around The World”, a similar international revue to that on the BLUE MONARCH, but this one was like deja vu for an entirely different reason. I recognized the mostly Romanian singers and dancers from my February 2006 cruise aboard REGAL EMPRESS. On the larger stage of AEGEAN TWO, their show was superb. This troupe is classically trained, attractive, and extremely talented. We both agreed that at 45 minutes, the show was a bit short, however. Perhaps it is always best to leave us wanting more…
From our respective, wonderfully creaky alcoves in the cabin, we enjoyed some late night chatter as the former AUSONIA hummed and pitched gracefully along.
End of Part One
AEGEAN Blog, Part Two
Saturday, August 25, 2007
I was not up on deck for our dawn arrival at Kusadasi, taking advantage of a full night’s sleep in my cozy berth. When I did awake at 8:30, I visited the buffet for a light breakfast by the pool. It was a reasonably warm and breezy morning. The port, which was practically full on our prior visit, was host only to AEGEAN TWO and OCEAN MONACH. I grabbed the laptop and head to the terminal where the friendly internet center operator remembered me. As I left, he gave me an “anti-evil eye” magnet and a sticker with the Turkish flag. In addition to that kindness, his assistant came running up as I was going through security to give me my hat, which I carelessly left draped over my chair. Such gestures form lasting impressions.
There was another absolutely delicious buffet with a variety of Greek salads, tender chicken, roasted pork, an assortment of steamed vegetables, pilaf, and burgers on the grill. I gnawed away at my usual salad menagerie as we backed into the calm waters and made our turn southward into Samos Strait.
Mast and funnel. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Tripod to the sun. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Curves and shadows. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Finbetween. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Sunlit superstructure. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I had another sun-drenched afternoon to wander about photographing AEGEAN TWO’s poetic features, secret curves and crannies from another era.
Mahogany blue. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
After passing Samos (this time, unfortunately, not encountering PERLA), backlit Patmos was on the horizon. The water around us was so magnificent, I made a pact to stay out of the internet cafe and spend some time in the Aegean. Cameras, of course, would be permitted.
Perfection in Patmos. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The tender made its usual arc along the port side of the ship, turning away to provide a perfect view of our AEGEAN TWO, whose Italian beauty, like Sophia Loren, resonates ever the better with age. No other ships, aside from AEGEAN TWO’s rival, the OCEAN MONARCH, would populate little Patmos town this afternoon.
Patmos paradise. Photo and copright Peter Knego 2007.
Patmos boats. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
For 18 euros, we hired a cab to take us to a beach two or three coves away, where I sought shade under a scraggly tree in th
e brittle, dusty sand away from a community of umbrellas and cushioned deck chairs. Barren, rocky slopes were behind and to either side of us and the bow of a brilliant white yacht bobbed behind the nearest promontory, Once in the cool, crystalline Aegean blue, with feet dangling over a sea bed of kelp, coral, and tiny fish, I felt renewed. Later, a lovely breeze billowed through Patmos town as we drank a cold beer and consumed another gyro, perused the sparsely populated shops, and finally returned to the ship.
AEGEAN Jacuzzi on aft Bahia Deck. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
AEGEAN Gym. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
A note from AEGEAN TWO’s captain, Nikos Giannokopoulos, was waiting for us when we returned to cabin 39, requesting we contact reception after departing Patmos at 9:00 PM. I had time to ogle our teak decks, admire the always-fetching OCEAN MONARCH across from us and work out quickly in the gym (which is small but has a reasonably good selection of weights and cardio machines) before we headed to dinner at 8:00.
Greek salad on Greek Night. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The maitre’d informed us we were having dinner with the captain at 10:00, but we were very hungry and managed to sneak in a “preview” dinner to tide us over. The Greek Night menu was exactly what I was hoping for, with a selection of dishes from appetizers (dolmatae, olives, spicy meatballs, calamari), avgolemono soup, Greek salad, a tender chicken entrée, and a selection of baklava for dessert.
”Zorba” on Greek Night. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Cruise director extraordinaire and Greek Night emcee, Giorgios Nakos. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
We head to the Greek Night show, which featured a combination of the Romanian entertainment team and the crew. Excellent musicianship, dancing and singing was provided by all concerned, but the Voyager bartender, adroitly nicknamed “Zorba”, stole the show with his acrobatic Greek Flashdancing.
Christopher was exhausted by our long, adventurous day and retreated to the cabin while I returned to the dining room to be joined by a nice father and son from Germany, Klaus-Georg Koth Sr. and Jr., who happened to be avid ship enthusiasts. I envied them for booking two cruises in a row so that they could spend a full week on the AEGEAN TWO. Captain Giannokopoulos (who had served on a wonderful variety of vessels from CITY OF MYKONOS and CITY OF RHODOS to STELLA OCEANIS and OCEAN MONARCH) and Staff Captain Darakis Georgios soon joined us for a great time talking about ships and Greece. The friendly captain has a devoted interest in the history of AUSONIA/AEGEAN TWO as well as a respect and appreciation for her aesthetic beauty and solid construction.
We adjourned to the pulsating disco soundscape of the Voyager Bar for an after dinner drink before it was time for the officers to return to their charge and the rest of us to retire for the night.
Sunday, August 24, 2007:
This morning offered another chance to sleep in, but not late enough to miss the breakfast buffet on deck in Heraklion. One nice feature about the AEGEAN TWO’s buffet is that coffee and tea are always available, even when the meal service is not.
KNOSSOS PALACE kicks up the seas as she charges out of Heraklion. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Compared to the prior visit, Heraklion was rather sleepy. The OCEAN MONARCH was berthed nearby and the powerful and handsome new KNOSSOS PALACE was directly across the pier, fuming like the Minotaur as she readied for departure. Her lines were quickly loosened and her car deck hydraulically retrieved before she maneuvered past us and into the Aegean for another high speed crossing.
AEGEAN TWO followed just after 11:00 AM with the assistance of a large tug. A strong wind managed to temper the sun’s roasting rays as I wandered about admiring and documenting all aspects of the rare steamship.
Captain Giannokopoulos on the port wing. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
AEGEAN TWO’s wheelhouse, facing port. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Italian wheelhouse window. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Starboard wing, facing starboard. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Grate photo/teak underfoot. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The captain signaled from the bridge wing that I could come up to document the wheelhouse, allowing me a generous amount of time to maneuver between the working officers to capture original features such as the Grinell sprinkler panel, the brass speaking tubes and wheel. The original telegraphs were replaced in the 1980s refit which saw the addition of a modern console.
Bone in teeth from the tip of nose. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Face to face. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
We climbed up to the flying bridge, but the high winds and strong backlight were not conducive to photography. Then, the captain accompanied me to the fo’c’sle, allowing me to get my “face” shot and even suggested I try to get some footage of her bow cutting through the waves from the side of her forward bulwarks. He seemed as pleased as me that it was being captured for posterity.
Mounds of Greek salad, perfectly cooked fettucine with mushrooms and tomato sauce and a cappuccino (in the shelter of the Kontiki Bar) followed, and then we were in the rocky roads off Santorini. Thira’s cataclismic, volcanic beauty will never get tiresome, although I had chosen to enjoy a low key afternoon on board the empty ship.
GOLDEN PRINCE at Santorini. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
ROYAL IRIS at Santorini. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
We steamed into the caldera with the OCEAN MONARCH behind us and the Turkish ferry SAMSUN converging from the east. Ahead, in a panorama of pumice and pristine blue, lay the anchored THE EMERALD (ex SANTA ROSA, REGENT RAINBOW) and the INSIGNIA. The GOLDEN PRINCE and ROYAL IRIS (ex EAGLE, AZUR) were tied up at the buoys under the striated cliffs.
My plan to take an early tender ashore for footage of AEGEAN TWO backfired when I found the hired tenders just make one way trips before running off to other ships or the harbor at the opposite side of the caldera. I suppose there are worse things than spending a few hours on Santorini! I joined Christopher at the internet cafe across from the cable car station at the top and savored an eagle’s eye view of the GOLDEN PRINCE, ROYAL IRIS and INSIGNIA departing as little tenders cut across the deep blue waters, their wakes like comet tails. SAMSUN and AEGEAN TWO eventually maneuvered over to the buoys as we rode the cable car back down.
Since they almost always fall on the final night of these Piraeus-based cruises, my visits to Santorini are taking on a Pavlovian sense of weariness. Thoughts of packing, good byes, and the realization that a horrible air plane awaits mix with the awe of the surrounding beauty. A particularly delightful cruise on what is possibly my favorite ship amplifies the conflict of emotions.
Once back aboard, there was time for a short work out. I shared the gym with one of the dancers, who sweetly asked if I wanted to use the treadmill before she started.
At 8:00 PM, Christopher and I head up to the Kontiki Bar for the deck buffet. There could be nothing more magical than being anchored in Santorini’s caldera, sun setting over the former AUSONIA’s racy, sleek upper decks with a nearly full moon rising above the volcanic wall behind us.
From sanctuary to sunset in Santorini. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Moonlit sculpture. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Buffet fit for the gods. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Although I had a comfortable seat and a plate full of delicious Greek specialties, I had to run around one last time with my sweet little Canon SD800 and take some atmospheric twilight shots. By the time I returned, the last tender was alongside, the sun nothing more than an indigo memory across the caldera, and the moon and the lights of Thira town were suspended in the sky above us. The bow lights were switched off and lines released as AEGEAN TWO edged forward. On the dimly lit, breezy terrace, we indulged our appetites for morsels steeped in olive oil, feta, oregano and lemon juice under the spectacular panorama.
From Romania to REGAL EMPRESS and AEGEAN TWO, Roman dances and choreographs across the seven seas. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Trifon and Tataniya team up for a song. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Packing went quickly, allowing plenty of time to secure good seats in the Discovery Lounge to enjoy freshly popped corn and an excellent show from the diverse and talented entertainment team. A nice plus is that the non-smoking areas are politely but firmly kept smoke-free so that everyone, regardless of their s
tance on tobacco, can enjoy the show.
In this day and age with the homogenization and monopolization of cruising by just a handful of major operators and the onslaught of huge, prefabricated ships with every possible amenity to distract passengers from the natural wonders of being at sea, it is such a treat to have Golden Star and the AEGEAN TWO.
With this in mind, Christopher and I circled that wonderful teak promenade one more time, savored the moonlit seas off our port stern, retired to the cozy creakiness of our amber-lit wood paneled cabin and let the high frequency hum of those CRDA turbines lull us to sleep for one more night.
Monday, August 27, 2007:
At 7:00 AM the air of Piraeus was hot and heavy. Fires were raging throughout Attica and Peleponessos as we left our beautiful ship behind. The shuttle bus circled the bow of the lovely OCEANIC II before dropping us off at the terminal and our multi-hurtled course homeward.
End of BLUE AEGEAN Blog
Very special thanks: Mr. Yiannis A. Angelopoulos, Spiros Christodoulatos, Martin Cox, Captain Nikos Eleftheriou, Captain Nikos Giannokopoulos, Darakis Georgios, Stephanie Kokkali, Christopher Kyte, Chantal Lundgren, Giorgios Nakos, Staff Captain Nikolaos, Maria Panopoulou
