Posted on Friday, September 18, 2009 by Peter Knego
Penning The Ultimate PRINCE Blog (Hail and Farewell to Fred. Olsen’s BLACK PRINCE)
First Post — Southampton Pro-blogue: September 20,2009
Southampton’s Maritime Museum.
After some twenty hours of commuting from Southern California, it was tempting to just call it a day when we finally arrived at the Ibis Southampton City Center Hotel. Instead, we laid the suitcases to rest in our cozy room and walked down to the busy waterfront where a boat show had drawn large crowds on its final day. For a mere 2 pounds each, we paid a visit to the Maritime Museum, which has a handful of liner displays, models and an entire gallery devoted to the TITANIC. Were Des Cox/Snowbows Castles To The Cape video not playing on the monitor, we would have completed our visit in a mere fifteen minutes but I chose to linger a bit and get misty-eyed over footage of the RMS WINDSOR CASTLE in her heyday, a perfect mental and emotional prep for our two days in her former home port.
Blogger with the official Liner Lover, Patricia Dempsey.
Liner Lovers Patsy and Kevin Dempsey in their element.
Hythe and seeking ships on Southampton Water.
The 63-year old HOTSPUR IV, between ferry duties, lies at the end of the Hythe Pier.
From the museum, it was a five minute walk to Town Quay where we met the lovely Patricia Dempsey of linerlovers.com fame. Patricia escorted us to the Hythe Ferry for a twelve minute ride across Southampton waters to historic Hythe Pier, where her father Kevin joined us to document the sail-aways.
ARCADIA, P&O’s enhanced Vista Class vessel, makes a timely departure at 4:30 PM sharp.
Please click on image to open a larger version. All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2009 unless otherwise noted.
BLACK PRINCEs's unique "fireman's helmet" funnel at Oslo. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2009.
As the ebbing tide revealed the long, silty embankment behind us, P&O’s Vista Class ARCADIA pulled out of the New Ocean Terminal and slid past.
Watching the BLACK approach…
Sharp and shapely from all angles…
Finally, some forty five minutes later, the still very Viking-esque BLACK WATCH left the Mayflower Terminal, taking another half hour or so to turn around before passing us in a fleeting moment of late afternoon sunlight. By 6:15, we bid our Southampton-based friends good bye and headed back across Southampton waters, with the ferry’s jolly mates Andy, Stewart and Phil keeping us on course and in good company for the return leg.
September 21, 2009
A gloomy day well spent catching up on rest and deadlines. Nothing to write home about…..
Penning The Ultimate PRINCE Blog.
First post added September 24, 2009. Much more to come…
Tuesday, September 22, 2009:
Funnel fancy amongst Southampton spires.
When we requested the taxi driver deliver us to the MV BLACK PRINCE at the City Terminal, he looked momentarily perplexed when he did not see her towering over the central Southampton skyline. Yes, the City Terminal, I assured. She’s a small ship.
And, of course, as we made our approach, that iconic, poly-surfaced fireman’s helmet funnel loomed over the terminal’s spire-topped roof.
The gangway awaits…
Through the gracious offices of Wendy Hooper-Greenhill, Fred. Olsen’s media representative, I was granted permission to board the 1966-built PRINCE a bit early. As the ship was fully booked for this ten night Farewell To Historic Homeports cruise calling at Kristiansand, Oslo, Goteborg, Copenhagen, Travemunde/Lubeck and Rotterdam, this would be my only opportunity to obtain photos of the accommodation.
Main Deck entry, facing starboard.
Upon her return on 2 October, the PRINCE will cast her lines for her very last cruise under the Fred. Olsen banner, a two week jaunt to the Canary Islands, before sailing off to a company called SAVTECA, who plan to operate her in Venezuelan coastal cruise service.
Cabin 375, facing starboard.
Once aboard, we stowed the luggage in our comfortable Category E outside cabin on starboard Marina Deck. It features a small, recessed porthole, a huge amount of storage space with no less than four full length closets and two large overhead cabinets, a dresser, hairdryer, closed circuit television, a bed and a lower pullman that can be folded into the forward bulkhead. Interestingly, there is no telephone. For cabin service, there is a call button and for correspondence, a clip in the passageway for notes, flyers and programs.
Cabin 375 w/c.
The w/c features a shower, toilet, sink and plenty of storage for toiletries and Fred. Olsen’s handy, gauze-wrapped amenities, which include shampoo, lotion, conditioner, bath gel, shoe shine and sewing kits and a shower cap.
BLACK PRINCE’s top stateroom, Suite 709 on forward/starboard Marquee Deck, shown facing aft, features separate sitting and bedroom areas.
Suite 702 on forward/port Marquee Deck, facing forward.
Wendy and I canvassed all accommodation from Marina Deck (3) outsides and insides all the way up to the ultra posh suites on Marquee Deck (7), which feature magnificent timber paneling.
An original Hermes in every Main Deck nook.
While trekking Main Deck (4), I tried to get a few shots of the Olsen’s original Hermes scarf collection, on display throughout the corridors.
The Aquitaine Lounge, facing port from forward.
Crystal and anodized aluminum sconce in the Aquitaine.
There was even some time to begin documenting BLACK PRINCE’s public rooms, most of which are located on aft Lido Deck (6) and the full length of Lounge Deck (5). The ship’s most sumptuous and original space, the forward-situated Aquitaine Lounge, has a semi-circular, slatted aluminum screen separating the circular dance floor and bar from the outer galleries, in much the same tradition of the forward lounges on famed Scandinavian liners like SAGAFJORD, VISTAFJORD, GRIPSHOLM and KUNGSHOLM. The original details are still intact, from the elegantly-framed wooden chairs and settees, crystal and aluminum sconces and ceiling fixtures, satiny burl paneling and original paintings from the Fred. Olsen family collection. It is the most striking space on BLACK PRINCE and one of the most beautiful public rooms afloat.
Library, facing aft.
The small Library on aft/port Lido Deck is one of many inviting, unique nooks on the ship. Its walnut-framed cabinetry dates from the BLACK PRINCE’s early sea-going days.
Fleur De Lys Restaurant, facing forward.
We broke for an informal buffet lunch in the forwardmost of two traditional dining rooms, the green-hued Fleur De Lys Restaurant on port Lounge Deck, joining a handful of passengers who were combining the three night Farewell cruise with the the current Homeports cruise. The Fleur de Lys has some remarkable early Olsen artwork that will be removed when the ship is de-stored in Southampton in mid-October.
Totally random Fleur de Lys carpet shot.
Thankfully, most of the BLACK PRINCE had been documente
d by the time staff was assembled to handle embarkation. Our cruising adventure was about to begin…
Southampton wake.
At precisely 4:30 PM, BLACK PRINCE pulled away from the quay. Unlike the BLACK WATCH’s circuitous departure two days prior, she pivoted around and sailed directly eastward.
Southampton’s historic Town Quay, from aft/port Marquee Deck.
Out on Town Quay, a duet of Liner Lovers was on hand to capture our departure. It was even nicer to enjoy their view in reverse.
BLACK PRINCE passing Town Quay on her penultimate Southampton departure. Photo and copyright Patricia Dempsey.
Admittedly, we were a rather fetching sight, as evidenced in this image, courtesy of Patricia Dempsey.
Disco dancing on deck.
The BLACK PRINCE’s loyal passengers may not be the youngest contingent on the seven seas but they are among the most fun-loving. On aft Lido Deck, there was a lively dance-a-thon as the bubbly flowed freely and complimentarily for the Champagne Sail Away party. Singer Anna and the Black Prince Orchestra were on hand to render a full catalog of nostalgic disco favorites.
Aside from the slightly gloomy skies, the weather behaved quite nicely as the PRINCE motored past Hythe and the Isle of Wight on her course toward the North Sea and Kristiansand, Norway.
After mustering for boat drill, there was time for a hunched-over run on the treadmill and some serious unpacking before joining the media group in the Aquitaine for pre-dinner cocktails.
Royal Garter Restaurant, facing forward.
We were assigned second seating dinner in the coral-toned Royal Garter Restaurant on aft Lounge Deck at 8:30. All Fred. Olsen menus and china sport BLACK PRINCE’s lovely bow crest figurehead logo, in a fitting and aesthetically pleasing tribute to the company’s first bona fide cruise ship. Although the PRINCE will be leaving the fleet, her imprint will remain.
Cross Country Skier by Storstein on the aft bulkhead of the Royal Garter Dining Room.
Of particular interest in the Royal Garter are two stunning, abstract oils, Summer By The Sea and Cross Country Skier by Storstein, dating from 1938.
Neptune Lounge, facing forward from Lounge Deck level.
Following dinner, we convened to the upper level of the double deck Neptune Lounge (dating from the ship’s 1987 rebuilding and somewhat reminiscent of the ballrooms on the rebuilt Cunarders CARMANIA and FRANCONIA of 1963). Although it was difficult to see the stage from the balcony, large video screens enabled us to watch the show, entitled Thank You For The Music, which adroitly united Abba and Barry Manilow hits.
Extra Agnethas and yet no Fridas in The Black Prince Show Company’s Abba ensemble.
Sun Deck, facing forward.
The seas were behaving so nicely that I took a brief spin around the ship’s upper decks before retiring to Cabin 375.
Second Post. Added September 27, 2009
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Cabin 375 call button…
We forgot to hang our cabin breakfast request out the prior night but our sweet, accommodating cabin stewardess, Jam, was more than happy to fetch us a tray with juice, yogurt, muesli and tea to begin our first official morning aboard the BLACK PRINCE.
At 9:30, when we awoke, the sun was shining brightly and we were pitching moderately in a Force Four — relatively calm conditions for the North Sea. In his midday announcement, Captain Asmund Nilsen suggested that by late afternoon, weather conditions would devolve into a Force Five. No reason to tear open the Meclizine packets, I hoped…
Aft Sun Deck, facing forward.
The crisp, blustery, late morning sea air was laced with salt and the occasional whiff of diesel. I clambered up to the BLACK PRINCE’s Sun Deck, which features a wonderful observation platform overlooking the bow and bridge wings, continuing aft along the starboard side of the funnel in the shelter of two windscreens to a games deck with badminton, quoits an
d shuffleboard courts.
Balblom Restaurant, facing aft.
For lunch, I joined Carmania Press esteemed Anthony Cooke and Sea Lines Martin Grant for a buffet style lunch with a view in the Balblom Restaurant atop aft Marquee Deck. Lunch is also available in the Royal Garter down on Lounge Deck offering Fred. Olsen’s combination menu and buffet service.
Cafe soufflé?
Back of the helmet.
After a voluptuously foamy cappuccino in the Lido Lounge terrace, it was back up to Sun Deck for more footage of the PRINCE in the element she was designed to ferry across in her early Olsen and Bergen Line days. Unlike flat-bottomed new ships which tend to slam into troughs, the PRINCE pitched like a schooner.
Bow above the sea.
Amongst the clusters at the Sun Deck rails were shipping author and journalist Peter Newall, his companion, Susan Lines, Fairplay’s Richard Clayton and his wife Anne as the PRINCE plied the sea lanes in consort with and occasionally overtaking chugging ro/ros and coasters. Gradually, the sun began to fade and the seas began to boil.
Midships surge…
Although my digital delay failed to capture it, spray was soon flying over the bow and torrents of white water were splashing off the sides of the ship. My sea legs began to wobble and before much longer, I was in retreat, off to 375 to assume a horizontal position for the remainder of day and night.
Heated and boiling in the North Sea.
Fred. Olsen is very accommodating with its cabin dinner service in such conditions. Sweet Jam appeared with a full menu for us to select from and returned via surging stairtowers and pitching passageways with trays of soup, salads and entrees. Apparently, we were not the only ones to miss the gala Captain’s Welcome cocktail party and dinner. Alas, BLACK PRINCE did her best to lure us into a deep sleep with her corkscrew contortions, the rhythmic din of her Pielstick diesels and the occasional shudder of her airborne screws.
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Kristiansand port plaque onboard BLACK PRINCE.
The ship was still surging at precisely 7:45 as Jam arrived with continental breakfast. Outside the porthole, I could see the gray granite coastline of Southern Norway, so raced up top to catch our arrival into Kristiansand.
Captain Nilson glides BLACK PRINCE into Kristiansand for the final time.
On the starboard wing, Captain Nilson and the Norwegian pilot maneuvered into a chilly headwind past a strikingly modern, outbound Color Line ferry. As we thrust toward the terminal, I was startled by the dockside cannon fire that celebrated the ship’s final arrival to her onetime home port.
MV BLACK PRINCE on her final call at Kristiansand, Norway.
For ten pounds, a trolley was available alongside for a short and scenic ride into town. Kristiansand, which was founded in 1614, is named for King Kristian IV and the sandy beaches on the outskirts of the town. It is the fifth largest city in Norway and also boasts on average, the country’s greatest number of sunny days per year.
Antlered arrival at Kristiansand.
A stuffed moose awaited at the bottom of the gangway, antlers aimed at the BLACK PRINCE’s shapely hull. A Kristiansand banner and the British and Norwegian flags flew overhead as I took some overall views of the ship and then walked a half mile or so into the city center to check e-mail and post the first portion of this blog.
Marching across Markensgate in the sun and Sand.
Municipal square, Kristiansand.
Domkirke Cathedral.
There was time to stroll past the cafes on Markensgate and into the city square on Radhusgaten, in the realm of the Domkirke Cathedral, a farmer’s market and municipal offices.
Chummy off Kristiansand: Peter Newall (left), Anthony Cooke (center) and Martin Grant (right).
Color Liner streaks past.
Back on the ship, there was time for a quick bite in the Balblom before heading up to Sun Deck for the sunny sail-away, with more cannon fire (this time answered by the ship’s triple whistle salute) and the return of the futuristic Color Line ferry.
Captain Nilson with Richard Clayton, Martin Grant and Anthony Cooke.
At 4:00 PM, with mercifully following seas, a small group of us visited the bridge, where Captain Nilson kindly answered questions about the ship and the navigation equipment.
View from the beak.
GPS view of the Kristiansand coastline.
Aft from wing and into a following sun and sea.
BLACK PRINCE’s beaked wheelhouse was quite ahead of its time and the prototype of those found on many of today’s massive cruise ships and ferries.
Diva to the rafters…
Don’t stop this Diva!
Supreme lineup.
We all converged for cocktails in the sumptuous Aquitaine Lounge, then headed to dinner in the Royal Garter. From there, it was off to the Neptune for a smashingly fun show by guest performers, the Atlanta-based Divas Of Motown, who delivered a selection of nostalgic tunes by the Supremes, Etta James and even Sister Sledge.
Third Post: Added September 28, 2009
Friday, September 25, 2009
MV BLACK PRINCE at Oslo Passenger terminal for the final time.
We awakened to the rumble of the BLACK PRINCE’s engines as she approached the Oslo passenger terminal. Outside our porthole, we could see the base of Akershus Castle, backlit by the rising sun.
Kjeld Rasmussen’s young Hanne Skram in bronze.
After breakfast, I ventured outside to document the PRINCE from various vantages along the pier and from the walls of Akershus. The bow crest made by artist Kjeld Rasussen portraying young ballerina Hanne Skram had just been scrubbed clean. The BLACK PRINCE is one of the last passenger ships in the world with such a fixture.
Kjeld Rasmussen’s young Hanne Skram in porcelain.
The featured logo on the company’s Porsgrund crockery is based on this particular crest, which will be removed from the BLACK PRINCE when she is turned over to her new owners in October. It may reappear inside or atop the deck of another Fred. Olsen vessel or find a permanent home in Norway.
Akershus Castle, Oslo, Norway.
Helmut in the foliage.
Akershus provides an excellent vantage overlooking Oslo’s scenic harbor. It was also a nice place to get an eye level view of the PRINCE’s distinctive helmet.
YS BOROYSUND at Oslo.
I spent some time on the ship working on the blog, then wandered into town to find an internet cafe. Contrary to what was forecast, the sun had emerged from the mid-morning cloud cover. In the marina off the BLACK PRINCE’s bow, there was an interesting line up of small, preserved coastal vessels, the most beautiful of which, the Y/S BOROYSUND, was raising steam.
Oslo’s Radhus.
The 1950-built Radhus, or City Hall, is an impressive, Bauhaus-style red brick structure. Inside, it features paintings and frescoes by some of Norway’s leading contemporary artists and each year, it is where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded.
PRINCE in the sun.
From across the harbor in the Aker Brygge area, I found a cafe with free wifi and an excellent cup of cappuccino to upload another blog post but only after stopping at various vantages to photograph the BLACK PRINCE as she soaked up the brilliant Norwegian sun for her final time.
Viking serenade at Oslo.
Meanwhile, a local school choir had come to sing a set of farewell songs to the PRINCE as she prepared to depart.
Dressed overall overhead.
With every rail lined two or three deep, our ship must have been a sight to behold, fully dressed, gleaming and backlit in the golden afternoon light.
Viking sun.
An incoming ferry had delayed our departure as the local tug patiently waited for its chance to salute us from a fair distance off the port bow.
Norwegian banner flies for final time overhead.
On BLACK PRINCE’s foremast, the Norwegian flag billowed for its final time in over 43 years.
NORGE at Oslo.
Her lines loosened, then cast, the ship backed past the Norwegian Royal Yacht NORGE, then turned to port.
Sunset and spray ahead.
The tug led us out, past the 962-year-old Norwegian capital’s western shoreline, and into the sunset.
Oslo ripples.
As the wind picked up, only a small contingent of passengers remained on deck to watch the sky evolve from gold to silvery shades of orange, salmon and magenta. On cue, as the sun disappeared, a crescent moon appeared off our port bow. Behind us, Oslo dissolved into the horizon.
Soon, in the dark of night, the PRINCE would pass Hvitsen, home of her owners, for the final time.
Fourth Post: Added September 30, 2009. Much More to Come…
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Swedish pennant above a princely helmut.
Gothenburg, Sweden’s second largest city, enjoys a friendly rivalry with Stockholm, to the east. The one-time home port to Swedish American Line, was founded by King Gustav Adolphus in 1621 and has a population of approximately 400,000. The largest Nordic seaport, it is situated at the mouth of the Gota Alv river and sheltered by the barren, rocky archipelago immediately off Sweden’s southwest coast.
Swedish salutations at Gothenburg.
Despite the chilly, gloomy weather, we were greeted by a local jazz band in the terminal as we disembarked for our three hour city tour.
Goteborg view from the church perch.
Our first stop was the Domkyrkan Cathedral, which provided a nice view of the southern part of the city.
Prisms and points of Domkyrkan Cathedral.
The Gothic stone structure appeared almost black under the dark gray skies.
Paned look from the pulpit.
Inside, in addition to a large model of an East India schooner suspended in the rafters, there were some impressive stained glass panels.
Tufty Gordon at the Goteborg Botanical Gardens.
My jolly seat mate for the tour, Tufty Gordon, is a veteran of the British Cruise Line stage. A combination of sauce and brass, his variety shows are cheekily funny, engaging and musically diverse. The classically-trained clarinetist also is a master of the saxophone and flute and used to jam with British musical luminary Joe Cocker prior to his first sea-going gig on P&O’s SS ORIANA in the early 1970s. In addition to performing on the L.A.-based SUN, PACIFIC and ISLAND PRINCESSES, Tufty was on ORONSAY’s and ARCADIA’s final voyages and did stints on CANBERRA, UGANDA and SEA PRINCESS. His first contract with BLACK PRINCE was in 1990.
Goteborg Botanical fountainscape.
Anemonic Goteborg Botanical detail in peach.
Our second stop was Gothenburg’s gorgeous Botanical Gardens. In a mere 25 minutes, we barely got to glimpse its sprawling beauty, which includes manicured meadows, forested trails, a rock garden, numerous ponds, fountains, gazebos and brilliantly-colored blossoms in every imaginable shape and size.
Cathedral-like framework of the Goteborg fish market.
Inside the Goteborg fish market.
After visiting the city square, our last, brief stop included the famous fish market, which was open-air until 20th Century health regulations stipulated its enclosure. Its facade is uniquely Cathedral-inspired.
King Gustav Adolphus: Your coach stops here!
We were back on the PRINCE in time for a quick lunch in the Royal Garter, then I took the courtesy shuttle back to the center of town to explore a bit. A tall bronze statue of a perplexed-looking King Gustav Adolphus overlooked the drop-off point.
MV BLACK PRINCE at Goteborg.
I first hiked over to the pedestrian ram of the Gotaal Bridge for a shot of the BLACK PRINCE since the area around the terminal was inaccessible.
MV MARIEHOLM at Goteborg.
Then, it was along the waterfront to the Maritima Centrum, where an impressive number of small and mid-sized vessels are preserved, including the exquisite former Swedish American Line feeder, MARIEHOLM.
HOLM and a PRINCE at Gothenburg.
After some 90 or so minutes, I was back on the coach to the BLACK PRINCE. In the terminal, there was free wifi access, so I took the opportunity to upload another bit of blog.
Farewell in whites and blues.
Gota Legon send off.
Just as I finished and prepared to board the ship, the local Gota Legon marching band arrived to send us off in grand Swedish style.
Wave to Goteborg.
As I clambered up the gangway, the BLACK PRINCE canvas runners were being untied. In a moment or two, I was up on deck to enjoy the spectacle from the best perspective: on the departing ship. Unleashed and with a parting triple whistle blast, BLACK PRINCE headed south as the band played Go West and marched off.
Swedish sunset.
Up on Sun Deck, Gothenburg’s fascinating waterfront whirled past: Gustavian facades, aged terminals, massive cranes, drydocks, modern ferries, hotels, industrial complexes, etc. Ahead, the sun’s rays bled from underneath a high strata of clouds, giving the horizon an amber glow as the PRINCE reached the outer harbor and eventually zigzagged through the rugged archipelago into the Skagerrak, then the Kattegat, on her course to Copenhagen.
Dinner was followed by the double-header show in the Neptune Lounge featuring talented Tufty and his comedic cohort, Maxwell Plumm.
Sunday, September 27, 2009
Ricardo’s Jazz Band.
Having been to Copenhagen, I spent the morning writing in lieu of wandering. After learning that none of the quayside cafes had wifi, I walked toward town and found a spot in front of a community center where the “waves” were flowing freely. I was back on the ship in time to enjoy the snazzy, jazzy performance in the Neptune Lounge by local faves, Ricardo’s Jazzmen. One does not immediately think of Denmark as an epicenter of Dixieland and Satchmo-style culture, so it was both enlightening and entertaining.
Totally random Neptune Lounge carpet shot.
Ricard’s Jazzmen were on the quay to send us off at a prompt 6:00 PM as BLACK PRINCE set course for Travemunde.
Monday, September 28, 2009
We awoke to BLACK PRINCE’s distinctive rattling and rumbling as her thrusters maneuvered her alongside the city center of Travemunde. The Baltic German coastal town is well known for its spas, beaches and even an annual regatta as well as being the gateway to historic Lubeck.
BLACK PRINCE’s Lubecker Flender Werke builder’s plate.
Aside from its charming Old Town with over 1,000 buildings deemed UNESCO World Cultural Sites, Lubeck, the second largest German Baltic Sea port, is where BLACK PRINCE was built in 1966.
Approaching Lubeck: cranes criss-cross cathedrals. Photo and copyright Michael J. Masino 2009.
Exiting the highway, one first encounters a fascinating industrial waterfront area with a sprinkling of preserved vintage ships. The Old Town skyline and its medieval cathedrals and other colorful monuments then come into view.
Rathaus, Lubeck. Photo and copyright Michael J. Masino 2009.
Captain Nilson and Lubeck’s mayor.
Many of the men who actually built the BLACK PRINCE were on hand this morning as a contingent of loyal passengers, ship’s officers and press attended a special ceremony in Lubeck’s historic 12th Century Rathaus (Town Hall). The mayor and Captain Nilson exchanged plaques and speeches, then joined the crowd for a toast afterwards.
Lubeck’s Holsten Gate.
On our way back to the shuttle, we walked through the Holsten Gate, a robust, double barreled example of Gothic brick architecture.
Although Travemunde’s attractions, including the four masted barque PASSAT, beckoned, I chose to stay on the ship, taking lunch in the Royal Garter, then spending some time writing in a corner of the Lido. Eventually, the Lido filled for tea and the afternoon quiz, which I joined in on with three very charming ladies before hopping off to find an internet cafe.
BLACK PRINCE in the darkening drizzle of Travemunde.
In the early evening, in a bone-chilling drizzle, I returned to the PRINCE for dinner, missing the quayside jazz band that had come to send us off with yet another final serenade. We actually departed early, en route for the Kiel Canal transit the following morning.
Jam jams!
After another smashing show by The Divas Of Motown in the Neptune, we headed to the Aquitaine for a show by key members of the BLACK PRINCE’s hotel staff, including a set of songs by our very own cabin attendant Jam.
Fifth and Final Post: Added October 4, 2009
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Kiel portal.
BLACK PRINCE entered the eastern locks of the 61 mile long Kiel Canal at Kiel-Holtenau, Germany in the early hours of the morning. By the time we awoke, we were well on our westbound course in convoy with a number of unusual, moderate-sized merchant ships.
Kiel over stern.
Ice Carving in the Kiel Canal. Photo and copyright Michael J. Masino 2009.
The verdant banks of the canal, which was built by Kaiser Wilhelm, are interspersed with rolling meadows, farms and small settlements. On-coming ships tend to pass at more than casual speeds, adding a bit of thrill to the fascinating transit. At one spot on the north shore, a lone couple held up a Norwegian flag in tribute to the BLACK PRINCE.
Locked out of the Kiel Canal.
Around 1:00 PM, the PRINCE had arrived at the western terminus of Holtenau, passing through a lock into the River Elbe, joining several larger ships en route to the North Sea.
Germain 1955 from the Aquitaine Lounge, MV BLACK PRINCE.
Although it was gloomy and the seas had picked up a bit, our passage to Rotterdam was calm in comparison with our earlier, northbound North Sea crossing. We headed to the Neptune Lounge after lunch for a classical piano concerto. The lovely, largely original room, with its rich paneling, crystal sconces and gallery of fine art from the Olsen family collection was a perfect setting for such an event.
Hiro takes a bow.
Concert pianist Hiroake Takenouchi is a graduate of London’s Royal Academy of Music and a frequently featured entertainer on Fred. Olsen ships. His ability to analyze and explain the composers’ works with almost scientific precision and then play them with passionate abandon is impressive and uncanny.
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Bone in breast.
I was thrilled to be granted permission to visit the fo’c'sle head as BLACK PRINCE began her passage into the River Maas. As I extended my camera through the hawser overlooking the bulbous bow, I shared the perspective of a bronzed Hanne Skram.
Bell to bridge.
The ship’s original bell was removed last year to become a part of the Olsen archive. The new bell remains brilliantly polished, nonetheless. BLACK PRINCE’s beaked wheelhouse remains as cutting edge today as it was in 1966.
S.S. ROTTERDAM from an M.V. BLACK PRINCE perspective.
BLACK PRINCE rounded several bends until, at last, the familiar, much-beloved form of the former Holland America liner ROTTERDAM came into view. Last year, as I sailed into Rotterdam on board the brand new MV EURODAM, her berth was empty. Now, the sheered form of one of the world’s most famous and important ocean liners was finally home, externally restored to her original gold-banded gray hull with red boot topping.
Blue balloons for a BLACK PRINCE.
We would return to ROTTERDAM during our morning tour of the city and harbor. BLACK PRINCE continued onwards to the former Holland America terminus, the Wilhelminakade, where she began berthing maneuvers. The Shanty Singers were on the upper level, singing a touchingly sentimental greeting, when suddenly, there was a loud pop and blue balloons and confetti rocketed into the air, gradually raining back down on the pier.
Fireboat salute to the BLACK PRINCE on her final arrival at Rotterdam. Photo and copyright Michael J. Masino 2009.
Shanty Singers on the quay. Photo and copyright Michael J. Masino 2009.
On the port side of the ship, a fireboat sent out a full-bodied spray while back on the starboard side, the Shanty Singers continued their salute, momentarily interrupted by Captain Nilson’s blast of the BLACK PRINCE’s whistle. Rotterdam had given the PRINCE and her appreciative passengers the most beautiful of all the penultimate cruises tributes.
M.V. BLACK PRINCE at Rotterdam.
Shortly after our arrival, we were heading off on our tour of the city, past a number of interesting buildings and through various neighborhoods before boarding the Spido for the local harbor cruise.
M.V. BLACK PRINCE and the Wilhelminakade.
Dutch Tricolor over the Grand Dame.
We eventually headed outbound past the PRINCE and the ROTTERDAM to the huge container port, then returned for a closer look at ROTTERDAM
Spido stern shot: S.S. ROTTERDAM.
The Spido sailed into the ROTTERDAM’s slipway, close enough so that we could hear power tools in action to complete the ship’s conversion into an hotel and convention center as quickly as possible. The herculean project to restore the ship has gone drastically over budget and has suffered a number of delays.
Spido bow shot: S.S. ROTTERDAM.
Unfortunately, the ROTTERDAM’s owners have forbidden any media visits, which raises concerns over what exactly is being done to the ship. Will she be drastically altered like the original ORIANA was in Japan or suffer some of the same conversion issues that have plagued the QUEEN MARY in Long Beach? In any case, there is now some doubt that the ROTTERDAM will come out of the process as the perfectly unaltered treasure she was before the conversion. But at least she has been saved from the breakers and, hopefully, parts of her will live on to inspire and delight a new generation of ship lovers.
Euromast. Photo and copyright Michael J. Masino 2009.
Euromast to ROTTERDAM. Photo and copyright Michael J. Masino 2009.
S.S. ROTTERDAM. Photo and copyright Michael J. Masino 2009.
Our friend Hans Hoffman came to visit the BLACK PRINCE and kindly took us around town that afternoon. Hans was the ROTTERDAM’s chief officer and is now one of the Port of Rotterdam’s harbor pilots. We visited the Euromast for some gloomy aerial views of the former Dutch flagship, then stopped at a couple vantages across from her before he had to head off to work.
Starboard Night PRINCE.
Port Night PRINCE.
Just as the rain began to trickle down, I walked across the Erasmus Bridge for some shots of the PRINCE, then lingered in the terminal for an hour to get the last blog post up before going back on board in time for dinner, where I finally had the opportunity to sample some quintessentially British spotted dick. Then, it was up to the Neptune, where a full house waved the Union Jack during the U.K. Night revue, and finally, back out on deck as the PRINCE departed in the gauze of a faint drizzle, winding her way back into the North Sea.
Thursday, October 1, 2009
One final morning of muesli and hot tea delivered to our cabin, courtesy of pretty, precise and punctual Jam, then out on deck to watch the busy shipping lanes as the PRINCE sailed on a deliberately slow course toward Southampton. On our port side, the shores of Calais were backlit by the still ascending sun. The white cliffs of Dover lay ahead as the sun and clouds transformed the seas into a mottled mixture of turquoise and deep blue. A painterly, almost Stephen Card-like element, if there ever was one but without NIEUW AMSTERDAM or, say, CARONIA, ploughing through it.
The final day on BLACK PRINCE turned out to be her most glorious. Following, smooth seas, the English coastline bathed in light and ships of all sorts and sizes passing in every direction. It was warm enough to fill most of the deck lounges and seating by the pool area as old and new friends shared a final reminiscence and perhaps a joke or two.
Golden globes in the English Channel.
Final blogger’s sunset on board BLACK PRINCE.
My agenda included packing, a cappuccino to fuel some laptop musings, another concerto, a brief run on the treadmill and then back up on Sun Deck for the fiery sunset over the bow. Above, the wings of two gulls caught the crimson rays in a few dramatic flashes before fading away. On cue, Diana’s moon appeared in the violet above the PRINCE’s funnel.
Final dinner was followed by the Farewell Show with the heralded return of the supremely hard-working Divas, Maxwell Plumm and Tufty Gordon giving their last-est and best-est to a full-to-the-rafters, appreciative crowd. Then, back down to Cabin 375 to put out the luggage and try to get a short night’s sleep.
Friday, October 2, 2009
Penultimate PRINCE returns!
I was up on deck in the wet darkness at 6:30 to try and catch the arrival of SAGA ROSE at Southampton but she was well ahead of us, the windows of her curvaceous superstructure catching the harbor lights as she turned around and aimed for her berth, far beyond the PRINCE’s bow, which was inching toward Mayflower.
After breakfast in the Fleur de Lys, we waited until our disembarkation group was called and swiped our cards for a final time at the gangway. BLACK PRINCE’s ultimate, 14 night cruise to the Canaries lay ahead and we were off to another grand old lady, Saga Holiday’s 1965-built SAGA ROSE (ex SAGAFJORD, GRIPSHOLM), to embark on our second Penultimate Cruise in a row.
Ocean Liner Fittings, Furniture and Art For Sale at MidShipCentury.com
Peter Knego Videos Link: ON THE ROAD TO ALANG and THE WORLD’s PASSENGER FLEET, Volume Nine
Special thanks: Martin Cox, Chief Engineer Frode Eidem, Hans Hoffman, Wendy Hooper-Greenhill, Wendy Jeffreys, Michael J. Masino, Peter Newall, Captain Asmund Nilson
End of Penning the Ultimate PRINCE Sea Treks blog. Finalized 10 October 2009.
