Posted on Monday, March 28, 2011 by Shawn Dake
On Friday, March 25, 2011, Steve Rodriguez of www.kalakala.org announced that the former non-profit organization dedicated to saving and preserving the ferry KALAKALA would become a for profit entity. At the same time, it looked like his dream of saving the the unique vintage ferry was literally sinking as the ship took on water causing a list of up to 25 degrees to port, during low tide at her berth on the Hylebos Waterway in Tacoma, Washington. The former Black Ball Line and Washington State Ferry has been at this location since September, 2004. Various efforts to find a use and a home for the 1,417 gross ton vessel have not come to fruition. Although specific causes of the problem were unknown as this is written, it seems one of the pumps aboard the vessel quit working and at low tides water flows into the openings. It rights itself on the rising tide but settles lower each time due to the water that has entered. Reportedly, the pump has now been replaced and the ship is on an even keel once again.
KALAKALA's curious profile on Hylebos Waterway, Tacoma, Washington, August 12, 2005. Photo © Shawn J. Dake
KALAKALA in lay up on Hylebos Waterway, Tacoma, Washington, August 12, 2005. Photo © Shawn J. Dake
KALAKALA's stern on Hylebos Waterway, Tacoma, Washington, August 12, 2005 Photo © Shawn J. Dake
Few ships have had as unlikely a history and career as the KALAKALA which translates as “Flying Bird” from the native Chinook language. Launched in 1926 as a conventional double-ended steam ferry designed for service on San Francisco Bay, the then named PERALTA operated for Key System Ferries following her 1927 maiden voyage. Her career in the Bay Area was cut short in 1933 when an arson fire destroyed the Oakland terminal and also set the unlucky ferry ablaze. She burned to the hull and was declared a total loss. Instead of being destroyed Captain Alexander Peabody owner of the Puget Sound Navigation Company, the Black Ball Line, purchased the hulk for $6,500.00. He had her rebuilt into something the world had never seen before. As the world’s first streamlined ferry the KALAKALA had an Electro-welded superstructure with no rivets, curves everywhere, accented by rows of giant portholes along the vehicle deck and the passenger cabin fore and aft. It was like a silver Airstream trailer sailing across the water. In this form, the ship made her debut on July 3, 1935. As reconstructed the KALAKALA could carry 1,943 passengers and up to 110 cars. Her length was 276.5 feet with a beam of 55.7 feet and a draft of 16 feet.
KALAKALA at Victoria in 1957. Photo courtesy Steven J. Pickens.
The ship became part of the newly formed Washington State Ferry fleet in 1951. It sailed for them until October 2, 1967 when it was retired. Another bizarre turn of events found the former ferry heading to Alaska for a new role as a crab-processing plant in Alaska. After moving around for two years the ship was taken to Gibson Bay at Kodiak, Alaska where it was floated ashore at high tide and became a land-locked seafood plant. The story could have ended there but instead when this role was over preservationists put forward plans to refloat the ship and bring her back to Washington. After 10 years of wrangling, the ship was refloated and towed back to Seattle arriving to a triumphant welcome on November 8, 1998. It was first moored in Lake Union before moving to its present location. Even if the ship remains afloat, the KALAKALA may not have much time left. The Coast Guard was aboard on Friday to analyze the structural integrity. Neighboring businesses have lost patience with the presence of the old ship and detractors claim it could pollute the environment. According to Steven J. Pickens, an expert on Washington State Ferries, “If the KALAKALA did keel over, she would cause quite a problem for navigation, although if I remember correctly, all the old fuel oil was removed long ago.” Steve Rodriguez himself estimates it would cost approximately $14 million to complete a full renovation, although some minor interior improvements have been made at the dock. This is one of the most unique vessels in history and deserves a better fate than this, but the odds of saving her grow longer with each falling tide.
KALAKALA approaching Port Angeles in 1957. Photo courtesy Steven J. Pickens.
Thanks to Steven J. Pickens
For a detailed history of the KALAKALA please see his website at http://www.evergreenfleet.com/kalakalasplashpage.html
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David
March 29, 2011 at 9:58 am
A real beauty. Very streamlined and way ahead of her time.
Peter Knego
March 29, 2011 at 4:53 pm
Fantastic, Shawn! Well worth the internet charges on the DISNEY WONDER to spend a few moments reading. Once again, a great tribute to a ship of yesteryear that deserves so much better.
matt
March 30, 2011 at 6:59 am
I read so many people’s comments saying that the KALAKALA should be saved…
I see very few people ponying-up.
Bruce Mitchell
March 30, 2011 at 3:25 pm
Reminds me a bit of the old Admiral that was along the levee at St. Louis, and sailed the Mississippi for quite a while. There’s a loy of history in the big riverboat as well.If memory serves me well, it also was converted from a con-
ventional riverboat design to a design somewhat like the KALAKALA. Maybe someone can come with a blog on the Admiral. Hope so
MarkD
April 4, 2011 at 11:13 am
Yes, a lot of us would love to see the old lady restored to something, even if it can’t go to sea anymore.
But with the economic situation what it is, few have the means to help with funds.
On the other hand, I am certain there are people in the Tacoma area who have skills that would be sorely needed by those who have an active interest in the Kalakala.
Unfortunately, dry-docking is probably paramount and needed immediatly for that undoubtedly crusty hull. That costs money, and if no drydocking company is willing to come forth with some free time in their dock, then the history is probably written in advance for this unfortunate vessel.
Yet, if the hull can somehow be stabilized and if the Coast Guard will leave it be for a while longer, then volunteers with skills and determination certainly should be able to handle anything inside the ship. Within the hull, all it should take is money for materials.
And I’d bet that if some progress were made, even an exterior paint job, the neighbors would stop complaining quite so loudly.
But then, that’s just me talking. And who the heck am I?
Other than the fact that I have been involved in similar sorts of things.
Mark D.
Shawn Dake
April 4, 2011 at 7:03 pm
Bruce Mitchell, you inspired me to do a companion piece on the ADMIRAL. After reading your comment, it kept nagging at me that I should at least look up a little more information about the Mississippi River version of the similarly designed KALAKALA. It turned out the old boat was about to go for scrap, so the story of the ADMIRAL had to be done. Without your comment I may never have given it a second look, so thank you very much!
Richard Hunt
April 5, 2011 at 8:03 pm
To Bruce Mitchell: I thought the exact same thing. Unfortunately, the Admiral is in the process of being scrapped at this time. Her upper decks have been removed to facilitate her fitting under several bridges over the Mississippi River while being towed to a scrap yard in Alton IL. Such a shame and a waste.
I have lived in St. Louis all my life and remember many excursions onboard the Admiral. As much as I want to, I can’t bring myself to actually going to see the destruction of such a landmark.
Wes
May 17, 2011 at 1:21 pm
Nice to see it still exists at all. It was fun to work at getting a bunch of spare engine parts from a power plant in Logan Utah a decade ago. I had kind of lost track of it the past few years.
It really needs to get another chance. sadly, the best chance may be to find a place to permanently beach it again. -That would be too bad , but better than scrapping.
James Howard
December 1, 2011 at 4:07 pm
The memories of the Kalakala will never die..at least for me.
I was working on a video several years ago and have footage of her comming back to seattle shot from a tug boat. She tied up on the waterfront and it was a huge story. Then I was invited to ride on her thru the locks to lake union, where she sat moored there for several months looking for a home. Steve let me spend the night on her and the next morning she was towed to Neah Bay…after awhile she wore out her welcome and and was towed to Tacoma where she now rests. I have awsome footage of all her voyages looking for a home.
My heart goes out to Steve for trying to restore her. We even produced a song called “Kalakala oh Flying Bird”…I need to resume my video effort and check her out again in Tacoma. She could still be saved..something has to be done, Shes a part of our heratige of Puget Sound…if nothing else perhaps she could be scutteled and laid to rest and used as an underwater attraction for scuba divers…hmmmm…
Oh..I almost forgot…this may sound crazy…the night I spent on her was a bit spooky..I could hear voices and laughter..I got up and walked around..no one just me..freezing on a matt in my sleeping bag at the front door faceing the space needle…appearing at my feet was Ivar Hagland..he said..”Where the Clams go…so does Man” and vanished!!!
John E. Buckingham
January 30, 2012 at 11:35 pm
I’ll bet if the Seattle Space Needle were rusting, and in danger of falling down, people would get together and raise money to save it! Why then, shouldn’t they come together to try to save this OTHER symbol of Washington State? It deserves SO much more than to be left to die, rusting on the hylebos waterway. It’s no wonder the ship is rumored to be haunted!