Posted on Thursday, September 6, 2012 by Peter Knego
Peter Knego continues his eight night voyage to four western European ports from Southampton aboard Star Clippers’ four masted barquentine STAR FLYER with a visit to Brest and a day in the Bay of Biscay.
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All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2012 unless otherwise noted.
Monday, September 3, 2012
Captain on the wing.
I crawled out of bed shortly after STAR FLYER reached the placid shelter of outer Brest harbor. Soon, we would pass a large French military vessel and enter the commercial port. Shortly before noon, Captain Müller-Cyran was on the bridge wing along with the local pilot, maneuvering the STAR FLYER into her berth.
French onion soup.
Before heading out on our self-guided tour, we enjoyed a delicious lunch, appropriately highlighted by a flawless veggie French onion soup.
Brest plate.
Sated, we debarked the ship and headed inland towards the fortress wall that has guarded Brest since the 13th Century. Just beyond, the city of 142,000 is a pleasant, if not terribly scenic, place but we managed to find a few interesting nooks.
Cemetery sculpture.
Cryptic.
We walked to a cemetery overlooking the city, where there were some fascinating crypts, gravestones and statues.
Pains aux chocolates.
On the road back into the town center, we stopped for some Nautamine (a dramamine derivative), a fabulous pain au chocolate…
With brest milk.
…and a potent cappuccino.
Metal tree to bridge towers.
On the edge of the Penfeld River, there was a nice view of one of Europe’s largest drawbridges, Le Pont de Recouverance.
Floral fortress.
A sprawling castle is among the few vintage structures left in Brest, which was bombed into ruins by the Allies seeking to destroy its strategic German naval base. The castle houses Le Musée National Marine de Brest, a lovely maritime museum with paintings, carvings and exhibits detailing the history of the maritime city.
Lichen overlook.
From the castle walls, there are interesting views of the harbor and the Penfeld River.
One display featured exquisitely carved Roman gods (Neptune and Mars), a nymph (Amphitrite) and a goddess (Minerva) that were once displayed in a shipping line office.
U.S. monument.
On our way back to the ship, we walked through a verdant park, Cours Dojot. which overlooks the waterfront. It is dominated by a tall granite monument honoring the U.S. and French naval forces of World War Two.
Escalier de 1857.
We descended Escalier de 1857, which was built to connect the city with the commercial harbor. by Napoleon III. It was prominently featured in the film “Remorques”, starring Jean Gabin and Michele Morgan. I would return later in the day for a run up the stairs and through the park for a pre-dinner workout.
MSY STAR FLYER at Brest.
Brest Barquentine backdrop.
From the adjoining quay, there were some nice views of our gorgeous ship, which was clearly Brest’s “star” maritime attraction that day.
Dinner display.
In the bar each evening, several of the upcoming dinner courses are put on display along with the daily wine pairing suggestions.
Salmon sashimi.
Rob started off with a succulent salmon sashimi.
Eggplant tartlette.
And I countered with a savory phyllo, eggplant and leek tartlet before launching into a fillet of swordfish seared in olive oil.
Warm fondant au chocolate.
No better ending than a little chocolate “something”.
Name That Tune!
With 22 new French guests on board, there was a lively, post-dinner game of “Name That Tune” where, in addition to guessing correctly, one had to be the first to ring a bell and possibly even do a jig.
Fantail at night.
Onward into the night we sailed, for a two-day encounter with one of my old foes, the Bay of Biscay.
Tuesday, September 4, 2012
Captain’s Talk.
At 11:00 AM up on Sun Deck, Captain Müller-Cyran hosted his daily “Captain’s Talk”, where he shares seafaring tales and explains navigation and the operation of sailing ships.
Under the mast.
Hoisting sail.
Hoisting sail.
Thus far, the notorious Bay of Biscay had been only moderately rough, allowing the captain to order engines off and sails up. I popped another Nautamine and enjoyed it in a hazy blur.
Chicken gumbo.
As usual, lunch was delicious and the star attraction of the Caribbean-themed feast was the best chicken gumbo I have ever tasted. Two bowls, please….
Dolphin dining.
Right on cue, a pod of dolphins breached outside the dining room portholes.
Under foot.
Later, in the Bar, as I sat with a cup of piping hot mint green tea, a rather more terrestrial being swam past the skylight portals.
Deck games.
There would be some challenging deck games in the afternoon, quite a bit of catching up on these blog posts, dinner and a lulling night of sleep as STAR FLYER sailed on a leisurely southbound course.
End Of STAR FLYER To Iberia, Part Two
Much More To Come…
Very Special Thanks: Buck Banks, Martin Cox, Rob Di Stefano, Julie Ellis, Klaus Franz, Captain Jurgen Müller-Cyran
Jonathan Taub
September 6, 2012 at 7:34 pm
Enjoying another journey with Peter Knego! I hope the seas stay calm for you. Beautiful place, beautiful ship. Smallest I cruised on was 12,000 tons. That ship must be supurb. It must be a whole differnt feel and sound when cruising by wind! Thanks for sharing! Keep sailing, cruising, blogging and lecturing!!!!
Kenneth Eden
September 7, 2012 at 6:05 am
Got me again, dear Peter – wonderful set of pix, especially the food.
This is an upscale product, for sure, with a great emphasis on fine dining.
One thing that I have noticed of late, the lack of the ships logo or insignia on china, I like it, and I see it is featured on STAR FLYER. A little thing, but it makes a difference to me.
Jonathan Taub
September 7, 2012 at 12:10 pm
Hey Kenneth- I felt the same way about the logo/insignia. Boy do I miss the old Sitmar insignia (my favorite cruise line). Why did they stop doing that. Another corner to cut?
paul lafleur
September 7, 2012 at 2:38 pm
well written and as always the pics are superb, i bet that dog gone sword fish was good. i cant believe you of all people get seasick. look forward to more
Jeff Titelius
September 7, 2012 at 4:28 pm
Wonderful narrative of your journeys on the seas and your pictures are extraordinary, especially looking up at the mast and of the food of course. Have wanted to sail Star Clippers for years because of the intimate experience on board and the unique ports of call that only the smaller ships can get weigh anchor. Looking forward to future sea-faring tales!
Kenneth Eden
September 8, 2012 at 5:53 am
Jonathan Taub
As I had experienced on only two cruise lines that had this sort of iron clad policy with ships logo on the china or chargers, on my two favorite lines, French Line, and Home Lines, it was briskly corrected if not done properly, the logo was always to be placed in the twelve o’clock position, as it would normally be at home. The items as plated were in proper placement by the chef, as the passenger should not have to turn their plate to dine correctly.
No exceptions. On both ships if the logo was not at noon, the maitre or table captain would make a quick turn and take the poor waiter to task, Ihave only seen this on the two lines listed above. It is sad that on Holland America the plates are plunked onto the table without regard to logo placement. With two small waiters carrying three feet high lidded orders and long waits for your meal, I suppose they get away with it.
More contemporary lines use attractive service, however without any logo. Who can not love the gorgeous Versace service on Oceania, or some of the exquisite service on Celebrity, sans logo.
Kalle Id
September 12, 2012 at 10:53 am
Regarding the logo/insignia on china -conversation… I remember back in the 1980s and early 90s, when the ferry companies operating on the Baltic Sea considered themselves to be an upmarket product (and perhaps they were, to a degree), each ship had it’s own china, with the ship’s name printed on them (usually with gilded letter). I’ve no idea if they checked that the plates were correctly aligned as Kenneth remarked, though it would not surprise me if they actually did. Back in those days we always dined in the buffet, so I could correctly align my plate myself.