Posted on Friday, October 12, 2012 by Peter Knego
Exactly 20 years ago, I made my first visit to Piraeus. At that time, my mission was to visit the former SS AMERICA at her anchorage in nearby Eleusis. During that memorable week, I would also take a three night Greek Islands cruise on board Sun Lines’ sparkling STELLA OCEANIS as well as visit and/or photograph a luminous list of classics from the PALLAS ATHENA (ex FLANDRE) to the ACHILLE LAURO, ODYSSEUS, STELLA SOLARIS, MARGARITA L (ex WINDSOR CASTLE) and many more. I’ve lost count of how many times I would return to document scores of great old liners and cruise ships that are now faded footnotes of maritime history. Despite its challenges and industrial grittiness, I have come to love Piraeus and each time I visit, I savor seeking out its collection of ships, old and new.
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All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2012 unless otherwise noted.
Thursday, October 11, 2012
Wheels on fire, rolling down the road…
Prior to embarking Windstar Cruises’ recently renovated sail/diesel yacht WIND STAR, I would have a couple days to recuperate from the long flights and go exploring. Upon arrival, we took the E96 bus from Athens Airport into Piraeus “central”, then rolled our luggage along the bustling waterfront up to the friendly Glaros Hotel, our home for the next two nights.
Horiatiki and me. Photo by Rob Di Stefano.
It would be a crime to visit Greece without having at least one horiatiki (villager’s salad) and there is no better place to do that than at Drosopita, a cafe located in the heart of Zea Marina, the ancient port for the Athens region and now a picturesque yacht harbor a few blocks away from Piraeus central.
Friday, October 12, 2012
CRYSTAL SERENITY.
NOORDAM versus the cupola.
Piraeus harbor was bustling with cruise ships today. After getting an espresso and a delicious spanikopita at the cafe across from our hotel, we headed out for a walk around the harbor. Side-by-side at the main terminal were Crystal Cruises’ CRYSTAL SERENITY (2003/68,870 gross tons) and Holland America’s NOORDAM (2006/82,500 gross tons).
Modern Greek ruins.
We would pass several other ships that will be shown later in this report on our way to the outer waterfront via a network of steep, winding streets and stone facades.
Arrival of the VITSENTZOS KORNAROS.
While waiting for Louis Cruises LOUIS CRISTAL to sail, we sat on a bench overlooking Piraeus roads and watched several local ferries come and go, among them the arriving VINTSENTZOS KORNAROS, originally built in 1976 as the VIKING VISCOUNT for Townsend Thoresen.
LOUIS CRISTAL outbound.
At 11:30, the wedge-like LOUIS CRISTAL made her way out of Piraeus en route to Mykonos. The ship, which was built in 1992 as Effjohn’s SALLY ALBATROSS before being sold to NCL as their LEEWARD, looks better than ever in Louis’ new blue funneled livery.
MARALA in the Marina.
We then made a full circuit around the Piraeus peninsula to Zea Marina where we found the exquisite, 1931-built MARALA tied up in a row of handsome mega-yachts.
AGIOS GEORGIOS.
After another horiatiki at Drosopita, we walked back over the hill to central Piraeus and boarded the ferry to Paloukia on Salamis Island. This provided an excellent vantage of all the ships in Piraeus port, including the splendid, still active AGIOS GEORGIOS, which was built in 1972 as Sealink’s HENGIST.
L’AUSTRAL.
One of the more handsome deluxe category newbuilds, Compagnie du Ponant’s L’AUSTRAL (2010/10,944 gross tons) was dwarfed by the adjacent CRYSTAL SERENITY.
SEA CLOUD.
Our little ferry was moving along very quickly but not too fast to get a quick shot of the diminutive-but-eternally-gorgeous, 3,077-ton SEA CLOUD, which was originally built in 1931 as the private yacht HUSSAR for Marjorie Merriweather Post.
MEIN SCHIFF 2.
The panorama included MEIN SCHIFF 2 (1997/76,522 gross tons), the former MERCURY of Celebrity Cruises, which is now sailing for German-based TUI cruises and sporting a train station’s worth of graffiti on her dark blue hull..
COSTA PACIFICA.
Next in line was the 2009-built, 3,004 passenger COSTA PACIFICA, a near-sister of the recently lost COSTA CONCORDIA.
QUEEN ELIZABETH.
Holding a regal sentry at the entrance to Piraeus central, was Cunard’s 2010-built, 2,092-passenger QUEEN ELIZABETH.
Five ferries.
Meanwhile, on the north side of the harbor, no less than five ferries were tied with sterns to the quay for their winter layups or, perhaps to be sold…
HELLAS LIBERTY.
With all the cruise ships on the south side of the harbor, I almost missed the fetching HELLAS LIBERTY, the 1943-built former ARTHUR M. HUDDEL, one of the last surviving Liberty ships, now preserved as a museum.
OCEAN LIFE at Keratsini.
Our little ferry pitched her way into the seas just outside of Piraeus. As we passed Keratsini, at the end of a line-up of laid up ferries was the OCEAN LIFE, which last operated on Indian-based cruise service but was originally built in 1981 as the 9,885 gross ton, 710 passenger LEV TOLSTOY.
LOUIS OLYMPIA at Keratsini.
At the far end of Keratsini was the LOUIS OLYMPIA, formerly Royal Caribbean’s popular 37,584 gross ton, 1,575 passenger SONG OF AMERICA of 1982.
Remains of the MELODY.
This would also be my first chance to see what little was left of the wreck of the MELODY, a handsome little cruise ship that caught fire and was beached off Atalanti Island on July 6, 1990. The former French colonial liner DJEBEL DIRA of 1948, she lay partially sunk with bow dramatically pointing to the sky until being cut down about two years ago.
Approaching RASA SAYANG.
I was very surprised to see another important wreck, the RASA SAYANG, looking much more exposed than on prior occasions. As we neared, it looked as though the hulk was in the early stages of being raised and removed.
RASA SAYANG stern.
This was the first time I had ever been able to see the rusted lettering that spelled out her name and port of registry (Singapore) on her stern. The RASA SAYANG was built as Norwegian America Line’s gorgeous, 18,739 gross ton BERGENSFJORD in 1956.
Rolled-over RASA.
BERGENSFJORD briefly served as French Line’s DE GRASSE before becoming RASA SAYANG for Cruise East in 1973. In 1980, she was moved to Greece to be refitted as the cruise ship GOLDEN MOON but caught fire at Perama and was towed to her current resting place off Kynosaura on August 17, 1980, where she capsized. Her superstructure was eventually removed and the hull was used for many years as a place to tie up local fishing boats.
Floating crane.
A floating crane is now tied up near the bow of the former BERGENSFJORD.
HAPPY DOLPHIN at Perama.
While it was hard to not stay entirely focused on the RASA SAYANG, there were a number of interesting ferries as well as the laid up cruise ship HAPPY DOLPHIN, now sporting “etstur” on her hull, in the seemingly endless line up of tonnage at Perama. The 21,884 gross ton HAPPY DOLPHIN was originally the ORIENT VENUS for Japan Cruise Line and was laid up in 2011 following the collapse of last operators, Spanish-based Happy Cruises.
Elefsina in the backdrop.
As we neared Paloukia, there was a quick view of the vast, now mostly empty Bay of Eleusis, once home to the world’s largest and most fascinating collection of vintage passenger ships.
Ty-ROB-ita.
Our day of ship chasing in Piraeus had come to an end and it was now time to enjoy another one of the local delicacies, a tyropita (cheese pie), along with a frappé and an espresso.
Very Special Thanks: Martin Cox, Rob Di Stefano
Ralph D
October 13, 2012 at 2:46 am
Great report Peter!
Note that the HAPPY DOLPHIN has actually been renamed AEGEAN PARADISE for her charter to ETStur.
Charles Dragonette
October 13, 2012 at 6:07 am
Terrific stuff, Peter. I had no idea so much of RASA SAYANG remained. Sailed her during her brief CGT DE GRASSE days and spent sometime with her captain as RASA SAYANG, including the fire, when he was Master of VISTAFJORD during a crossing.
Corey Abelove
October 13, 2012 at 9:08 am
Nice caption on the first photo Peter. Happy to see you pay homage to The Band. And I did enjoy the article as well.
Peter Newall
October 13, 2012 at 4:34 pm
Another great report Petros!
Interesting to see the ex-BERGENSFJORD. I went aboard her as a kid in Cape Town during one of her cruises – she and OLSOFJORD had lovely yacht-like lines.
Peter N.
Dan
October 13, 2012 at 9:55 pm
Hi Peter,
Wouldn’t be nice to see the RASA SAYANG hull refloated in one piece? But my question is would it still be possible to rebuild the ship into a modern cruise ship on the inside with new machinery and equipment, as well as a new superstructure that is similar to her original exterior appearance once again?
Glenn L.
October 14, 2012 at 10:08 am
Amazing report, Happy 20th anniversary Peter and as always- thanks for sharing. Nice to see my beloved Noordam and Song of America in the Mediterranean sun- BTW the salad’s making me hungry.
Hank
October 14, 2012 at 11:42 am
It’s kind of sad seeing the RASA SAYANG go. I mean, it’s ruined, and has been for over 30 years. But it’s amazing it has survived so long. I’m surprised people in Greece are just now dismantling it. Greece has real economic troubles, well, everyone does. Obviously a salvager has pretty good funds to scrap something. But it seems odd that it has been there for years untouched. it’s amazing to see those photos. Makes me wish that I could take some. But it will be gone before I can.
Hank
October 14, 2012 at 11:46 am
Nice to see so many cruise ships in the port. As sad as it is to see so many liners go, it is great to see passenger ships thriving.
“Each era in which passenger ships sail and carry passengers is a golden era.”
-Greg Straub
Donald C
October 15, 2012 at 12:13 am
Hi Peter and thanks for this interesting summary. By coincidence, we just returned for a cruise on Louis Cristal.Indeed, this ship is extremely well maintained and has a very friendly crew! The gossip was that Louis Olympia was to be laid up for the winter this week-I think her 3 and 4 day cruises were to be taken over by Louis Cristal. Also, we saw Aegean Paradise in Izmir and it looked as though she was receiving new furniture, so interested to see that she is now laid up
Dieter Killinger
October 15, 2012 at 1:36 pm
I feel I can say this with my German background..
Those Germans sure want to make sure everyone knows it is “their” ship~~
It’s Mein, Mein, Mein! and don’t forget it!
I had a good laugh.
Nice ship though!
I like her better in the blue and white, but without the scribbling.
Paul Goodwin
October 19, 2012 at 6:13 pm
Peter, I’d very much enjoy seeing pics/commentary on your visit to the America 20 years ago, is that somewhere on this site? If not I think I speak for many here that would be very much interested in seeing pics of her in her final twilight years, having followed her sad, slow deterioration and collapse in the Canary Islands. Thanks
Philippe BREBANT
October 24, 2012 at 4:20 am
I visited the first time Piraeus harbour and areas in february 1986. I saw several oldies forgotten in the Elesis bay, including the rusting ex American SANTA ROSA bearing the name of TITANIC. I remember she was almost lying on the beach with 2 other ex Typaldos running mate including the RODOS and HELLAS. The ex AMERICA as ITALIS or NOGA was there on side of the MEDITERRANEAN STAR ex Chandris Patris but better known as the Union Castle Bloenfontein Castle.
Old ferries were still in service to Cyclades including old Belgian ARTEVELDE as the AEGEON. I saw the ACHILLE LAURO there for the first time, followed by the ex French AZUR (ex EAGLE) in her new livery and higher funnel as THE AZUR.
Epirotiki offices closer were still generous giving brochures and stocks of postcards of their current fleet, including WORLD RENAISSANCE, OCEANOS, ARGONAUT, ORPHEUS, ATLAS and many more all gone.
I went up to Salamis island but I had no the opportunity to perfom such shots of the ex BERGENFJORD which was lying facing Perama shipyards where the RHAPSODY ex STATENDAM was under refit as the REGENT STAR, on side of the TT Line ex ferry ROBIN HOOD ex PETER PAN FROM 1975 was under refit for the next coming summer season on the Adriatic as Minoan largest ferry then on the route renamed FEDRA…..
Yes Piraeus is still even today a great deal for a shiplover, good value for money catching pictures and seeking informations on the docks nobody know about the future of cruise ships and ferries….
Thank you Peter for your report !
Frederic ANDRIEU
October 24, 2012 at 1:35 pm
Very nice report.
I spent 2 years of my life in Piraeus.
And I saw the PALLAS ATHENA ex FLANDRES of EPIROTIKI burning several hours, as she was ready to sail after her refit in 1994;
May be you missed the wreck in front of Piraeus entrance or may be she was no longer visible .
Kali nichta.
Peter Knego
October 24, 2012 at 2:46 pm
Thanks Frederic. PALLAS ATHENA was tied up next to the wreck of MELODY, which was recent cut down to the waterline. I show a photo of the latter in the report. I saw PALLAS A in Piraeus in 1992 when she was still active, then again from the decks of ACHILLE LAURO after she burned in 1994. So much irony floating around, then and now. All my best, Peter
Hank
October 24, 2012 at 5:40 pm
Peter,
Will the remains of the MELODY be removed or left there?
Peter Knego
October 24, 2012 at 5:45 pm
I would guess they will stay there since the rest of the ship was cut down almost two years ago.
Frederic ANDRIEU
October 26, 2012 at 1:26 pm
Hi Peter
I’ll send your later on a picture of PALLAS ATHENA after fire.
Good night
Julian Fletcher
November 4, 2012 at 5:07 am
Does anyone know what is happening to LOUIS OLYMPIA (ex THOMSON DESTINY, SUNBIRD, SONG OF AMERICA). Thomson gave her up in March, she did one season for Louis, and now she is not shown in their 2013 itineries? I wonder what her future is?
Kalle Id
November 4, 2012 at 2:31 pm
Good catch, Julian. LOUIS OLYMPIA does appear on the company website, but the cruise calendar only mentions the LOUIS CRISTAL and CORAL. There has been talk of the LOUIS CRISTAL being sold to a new Finnish cruise line, but then it would be her that doesn’t appear in the calendar, not the OLYMPIA (and the OLYMPIA being sold to Finland is not an option, as the potential new line needs a ship with an ice-reinforced hull).
Semi-relatedly to the above: I thought I had added a comment on Peter getting the details of the LOUIS CRISTAL’s history wrong, but that doesn’t show up so here it is again.
The ship was in fact built in 1980 as the Viking Line ferry VIKING SAGA. In 1986 she became the cruise ship SALLY ALBATROSS (although she retained a car deck). In early 1990 the SALLY ALBATROSS was almost completely destroyed in a shipyard fire, but she was never-the-less rebuilt. The “new” SALLY ALBATROSS looked nothing like the “old” SALLY ALBATROSS. In 1994 the SALLY ALBATROSS grounded and partially sunk outside Helsinki. After repairs she was chartered (not sold) to NCL as the LEEWARD in 1995. In 2000 the charter agreement was transferred to Star Cruises and the ship became the SUPERSTAR TAURUS. Star gave her up in 2002 and the ship returned to the Baltic, sailing again for her owners Silja Line as the SILJA OPERA (incidentally, her original livery as the SILJA OPERA was identical to her current livery that Peter complimented above – except for funnel markings of course. Personally I preferred the original SALLY ALBATROSS livery with more colour in the superstructure). The SILJA OPERA was not a financial success and she was withdrawn in 2006. In 2007 she was sold to Louis Cruises as the CRISTAL and was renamed LOUIS CRISTAL in 2011.