Posted on Monday, March 11, 2013 by Peter Knego
Peter Knego joins Paul Gauguin Cruises’ intimate MV PAUL GAUGUIN in Papeete for a seven night journey through French Polynesia.
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All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2013 unless otherwise noted.
Saturday, March 2, 2013
Getting there.
If heading to Tahiti for a French Polynesia cruise aboard Paul Gauguin Cruises’ gorgeous little PAUL GAUGUIN, brandish your best smile for the TSA, buckle up, and rest assured that genuine paradise will be waiting at the other end of a tiring flight.
View from the Intercontinental Tahiti Resort showing Moorea, the Lagoonarium and the infinity pool.
Intercontinental Tahiti Resort room 392.
Bath in Intercontinental Tahiti Resort, room 392.
Intercontinental turtle pond.
Upon arrival, Paul Gauguin Cruises provides a day room at the sumptuous Intercontinental Tahiti Resort, where weary travelers can unwind in an infinity pool, snorkel in an enclosed reef with exotic fish (the Lagoonarium), get a spa treatment, work out or just relax before their 3:00 PM transfer to the ship.
First glance of the GAUGUIN in the liquid sunshine.
Although the 1997-built PAUL GAUGUIN is small by today’s standards, at 19,200 gross tons, she was by far the largest vessel in Papeete harbor.
Les Gauguines and Les Gaugins at the gangway.
When we arrived at the open air cruise terminal, we were greeted with live Polynesian music courtesy of the ship’s Les Gauguins and Les Gauguines cultural hosts and dance teams.
Welcome/Bienvenue aboard!
We were directed to the showroom, where we were welcomed with a glass of champagne. After an effortless check-in, our room keys were issued. A smiling cabin attendant then led me up one deck to category D Balcony Stateroom 601.
PAUL GAUGUIN Stateroom 601, facing port.
PAUL GAUGUIN Stateroom 601, facing starboard.
En suite tiki vitrine!
My 202-square-foot haven was as well-designed as it was beautiful. It featured two full-length closets, a pair of nightstands, a very comfortable queen-sized bed, a cocktail table, settee, mini-bar (stocked throughout the cruise with complimentary beer, soft drinks and bottled water), loads of shelf storage, a flatscreen television and DVD player, a nook with a writing desk and a fabulous vitrine with a dramatically lit Polynesian tiki man.
Modular bathroom aboard PAUL GAUGUIN.
The bathroom was also cleverly designed with extra cabinet space for toiletries, marble flooring and a full tub with shower.
L’Occitane toiletries.
And it’s always nice to see those L’Occitane toiletries (shower gel, moisturizer, shampoo and conditioner), which were replenished throughout the cruise.
Stateroom 601 balcony (shown later in the cruise).
37-square-foot balconies were added to the forward Deck 6 cabins in 2009 and mine was more than ample with two chairs and a small cocktail table.
Bon voyage gifts.
Paul Gauguin Cruises provides some splendid bon voyage amenities for a small fee, including a gorgeous flower arrangement, a bottle of champagne and Godiva chocolates.
In cabin canapés.
And, for good measure, suite category guests receive a selection of canapés each afternoon.
Memories! The Los Angeles maiden visit port plaque.
Immediately, I began my documentation of the ship, which has undergone two major transformations since my last and only visit when she stopped in Los Angeles in January 1998 on her way from her builders in France (Chantiers de l’Atlantique) to Tahiti.
PAUL GAUGUIN Piano Bar, facing forward/port.
PAUL GAUGUIN totally random Piano Bar carpet shot.
I’ll save the full tour for the Decked! report but suffice it to say, even though I thought the little PAUL GAUGUIN was one of the best newbuilds when she came out, I am delighted with her recent changes. In the $6 million 2009 refit, when the balconies were added, her aft decks and dining venues were reconfigured and in the $7 million late 2011 refit, the ship was spruced up with all new soft fittings and furnishing. PAUL GAUGUIN’s restrained “beigy” ambiance has been significantly punctuated with a chic new Polynesian look that gives her a warmer and more appealing sense of style.
Fare Tahiti, facing forward.
With a capacity limited to 332 guests, PAUL GAUGUIN enjoys the benefit of wide passageways like the Fare Tahiti on aft Deck 6, which boasts displays of original Polynesian artifacts and artwork.
Menu art by a hungry Paul Gauguin, years before his work became famous.
Included in the Fare Tahiti gallery are works by Gauguin, himself, who at one point paid his bills by designing menu art for local Tahitian cafes.
Category A Veranda Suite.
Several cabins were awaiting the arrival of guests on a late night flight, including a spacious Category A Veranda Suite (296-square-feet plus a 58-square-foot veranda).
Category B veranda cabin.
Category B Veranda Staterooms measure 249-square-feet and have 56-square-foot verandas.
Window Stateroom.
Window Staterooms are basically the same as Balcony Staterooms but with a picture window or two portholes in lieu of the balcony.
Tea time treats in Le Grill.
I was tempted by afternoon tea and snacks in Le Grill, the poolside eatery, but wanted to get some photos of the ship between bursts of rain before the sun set.
PAUL GAUGUIN at Le Quais des Paquebots.
PAUL GAUGUIN soaking up the last bit of sunshine at Papeete.
Surrounded by super yachts and a large tuna vessel, PAUL GAUGUIN was by far the most fetching ship in Papeete.
Papeete on a Saturday afternoon.
Papeete’s downtown shopping district was steps away but on a Saturday afternoon, it resembled a western ghost town. The boutiques all shutter by noon and everyone heads off to family gatherings or one of the two large beaches on the island.
Pia presents.
Back on board, I learned a bit about our first two ports of call, Raiatea and Taha’a, before unpacking and heading off to La Veranda for dinner.
La Veranda, facing forward/port.
PAUL GAUGUIN has two specialty dining options, both of which are free-of-charge but require reservations. While open for breakfast and lunch, at night, the 134-seat La Veranda offers a fixed French menu limited to 75 guests in scheduled increments between 7:00 and 9:00 PM. The left side is a “Degustation” with everything from foie gras to sashimi, escargot, grilled shrimps, lamb and fresh fruits per two star Michelin chef Jean-Pierre Vigato from the Apricus Restaurant in Paris.
Baked parmesan appetizer.
On the right side of the menu, there were a number of Entrées (starters), including salmon cake, green asparagus salad and my choice, a delicious red onion pie with melted Parmesan cheese, a balsamic reduction and extra virgin olive oil.
Wahoo main course.
Specialties (or main courses) included my choice, a grilled wahoo on roasted garlic mashed potatoes and onion compote or a tenderloin of beef.
Ending on a high note with a chocolate tart dessert.
And for dessert, a Tahitian vanilla creme brulée or a crispy chocolate tart…
La Veranda petits fours.
And if that was not enough to extinguish any remaining yens of indulgence, outrageous caramel and chocolate petits fours surely did the trick.
PAUL GAUGUIN at night.
After dinner, I headed back ashore for some nocturnal shots of our handsome ship.
Papeete avec Les Roulottes.
Behind me in Vaiete Square, Papeete had come back to life from its afternoon slumber with brightly lit roulottes, the famed Tahitian food trucks offering all sorts of affordable cuisine, from Peking duck to Belgian waffles.
Night over the PAUL GAUGUIN’s pool at Papeete.
From there, it was back to the PAUL GAUGUIN for a walk around her rain-soaked upper decks before calling it a night. She would depart in the wee hours, course set for Raiatea, some 115 nautical miles to the west-by-northwest.
End of PAUL GAUGUIN In Paradise, Part One
Special thanks to: Vanessa Bloy, Martin Cox, Captain Ante-Toni Mirkovic, Nelson Trinidade
Much More to Come
Capt Mark
March 11, 2013 at 11:00 pm
Peter, pass best my best regards to Capt Tony if he is on board. Capt Mark
Peter Knego
March 12, 2013 at 1:00 am
Hi Marek!
As a matter of fact, Captain Ante was trying to reach you via e-mail last week. It was so nice to meet and sail with him. Such a distinguished guy and a fellow Croatian, too! Hope you are well and that our paths cross sometime soon.
All my best,
Peter
Rob Munton
March 12, 2013 at 1:04 am
Hi Peter,
Enjoying your report and looking forward to the next instalment! Very impressed from what I have seen so far. Travelling on the Paul Gauguin out of Papeete in June from Brisbane Australia.
Rob
Kalle Id
March 12, 2013 at 1:23 am
Such an utterly fantastic thing to read while it’s snowing outside here in the far North. I’ve long dreamed of sailing on the PAUL GAUGUIN but haven’t had a chance to do so yet, so your report (which is fantastic as always) is a very nice replacement.
I also really dig the interior design of La Veranda and the Piano Bar. Especially the random carpets.
Can’t wait for part 2.
Keith Cooper
March 12, 2013 at 4:37 am
Peter, Did you see the Aranui 3 while you were sailing the Marquesus? I love that ship. Maybe you should do a story on her. We also stayed at the Intercontinetal as you did, Aranui and that place are my favorite places on Earth!
Kenenth Eden
March 12, 2013 at 6:30 am
Oh Peter, what a job you have to put up with! This ship is truly gorgeous!
Her decor is up to date yet echo the interiors I fondly remember from the ’90′s. La Vernada especially reflects that look, a beautiful culmination of turquise and aquas, with blond wood and antheriums – tres chic.
I was fortunate enough to sail in those waters during a cruise in the ROYAL VIKING STAR, during a Sydney to Papaetee cruise, nearing the end of RVL as I knew it and loved it, and that left a sour taste for me during that cruise. If I had realized that the end was near, I would have canceled that cruise. Only way to recitfy that is to “go GAUGUIN”.
It appears the the PAUL GAUGUIN is offering a delightful and decidedly French themed experience. I’d go just for the rainbow ice cream cones and shiny ceilings alone. LOL!
I can not wait for your next installment.
Hank
March 12, 2013 at 10:51 am
An interesting thing to note about French Polynesia is that it is owned by France (as the name implies). French Guinea in South America is part of France as well. France carried out nuclear weapons tests at French Polynesia much to the dismay of Greenpeace. France maintains a nuclear weapons stockpile of several hundred weapons, and the United Kingdom also has nuclear weapons and maintains its nuclear weapons stockpile of several hundred weapons.
Brad H.
March 12, 2013 at 1:28 pm
Peter’s back!
Wonderful report as usual, and what a pretty vessel the Paul Gauguin is! Very nicely outfitted, and the service seems to be really great.
Looking forward to the next installment!
John Cant
March 12, 2013 at 5:00 pm
While working for US Lines in the 50′s and 60′s we operated 12 passenger freighters from New York to Sydney with a stop at Papeete, I always dreamed of visiting this city and in later years while working as a cruise specialist for a travel agency, I had the opportunity to travel aboard the Golden Princess, ex Royal Viking Line, from Auckland to Papeete. After retirement, I traveled aboard Celebrity’s Mercury from Honolulu to Sydney. with stops in Papeete and Bora Bora, This time, what a disappointment as Papeete had grown into a large city, similar to cities in Canada and the US. I did take a shore excursion around the island, but the weather did not co-operate so all in all not a visit to remember.
Tanya Corkum
March 12, 2013 at 6:07 pm
Thank you for bringing up some memories from our cruise last August. As a Croatian I felt safe with Croatian Captain Tony and spoiled by French Cuisine.
Hardly wait to get on board Paul Gauguin ship again to enjoy beautiful Society and Marquese Islands.
Mage B
March 14, 2013 at 7:39 pm
You know we are enjoying this….
Peter Knego
March 14, 2013 at 10:39 pm
Thanks so much, Rob, Keith, Kalle, Ken, Tanya and Brad! It was so nice to come back from my short hiatus to the PAUL GAUGUIN. I was looking forward to the trip but even my high expectations were exceeded. This is the perfect ship in so many ways and the crew and food are top-notch. I’m working on the next post and should have it up soon. Hope you like it.
All my best,
Peter
PS. Kalle, your reports from the cold north are just superb and I salute those random carpet shots of yours.
PPS. Keith, ARANUI III sounds like a dream — a real “working ship” in Paradise.
Kalle Id
March 15, 2013 at 1:51 am
Peter, I’m so glad you enjoyed my reports. I find it a highly amusing that the two trip reports currently up at MM’s main page are from the tropical paradise of French Polynesia and the decidedly arctic winterly Baltic Sea.
PS. Random carpets shots for the win.
Hank
March 15, 2013 at 10:13 am
Thank you very much for the great report Peter!
Neven Jerkovic
March 15, 2013 at 11:43 am
Peter, just a curiosity: capt.Toni is from Dubrovnik, the same city as your father is comming from too.
Peter Knego
March 15, 2013 at 11:45 am
Absolutely, Neven! I’ll be mentioning the good captain in the next installment. He was an officer on board the beautiful little DALMACIJA, too.
Maria Smith
March 16, 2013 at 2:53 pm
Fantastic pictures. We are going in November and the photos help get a real feel for what to expect. Thanks for sharing.
Jeff Kay
April 25, 2013 at 9:12 pm
how does the ship ride in the Pacific swells. we are llooking into a May 2014 trip?
Peter Knego
April 25, 2013 at 10:26 pm
She moved but not too badly during the longer sea legs on our seven night cruise. I have lousy sea legs and had no problem on that trip. — Peter