Continue with Peter Knego on board the CARNIVAL LIBERTY following the ship’s recent “Fun Ship 2.0″ upgrading with time at sea and visits to St. Thomas, San Juan and Grand Turk.

Carnival Cruise Lines

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Monday, January 9, 2012

Guy's burger with fries.

Circa 1987, I gave up eating red meat, which, in the case of sampling one of the CARNIVAL LIBERTY’s most hailed new venues, rendered me quite literally toothless.  However, my traveling companion Lis was a regular patron of Guy’s Burger Joint during our brief week on board, giving its quality ground chuck burgers two hearty thumbs up. Since there are no “veggie”, turkey or chicken options, I was half-tempted to grab a buttery bun and fill it up with some of those caramelized onions, a little lettuce, some tomato and a side of those delicious fries…

Red Frog Pub.

Just forward of Guy’s Burger Joint on the starboard side of the Deck 9 midships pool is another brand new “2.0″ venue, the RedFrog Pub, which features Carnival’s RedFrog Beer on tap and a bar menu with all sorts of other brews and rum drinks.

BlueIguana tequila bar.

And across the pool on the port side of Deck 9, there is the newly-added “2.0″ BlueIguana tequila bar.

Creating a BlueIguana burrito.

BlueIguana salsa bar.

BlueIguana burrito completo.

The new “2.0″ BlueIguana Grill can be likened to a sea-going “Chipotle,” where guests can select the ingredients that go into their freshly prepared burrito.  Choices include chicken, beef and pork with refried or black beans, various salsas, guacamole, pico de gallo and jack cheese. Open-faced tacos made with homemade tortillas are also available and additional salsas and seasonings can be piled on with a quick visit to the salsa bar. Both Guy’s Burgers Joint and the BlueIguana Grill are complimentary venues.

Garden Villa Atrium facing up/port from Deck 2.

After lunch, we took a stroll around the ship, then met with the assistant hotel manager, who escorted us to the bridge for a quick visit.

Bridge to bow at sea.

We watched from the perspective of the wheelhouse as CARNIVAL LIBERTY plied rather calm seas at a steady 16 knots. Although they were not visible, CELEBRITY MILLENNIUM and NORWEGIAN EPIC were in the distance off our starboard bow, leading our southbound convoy.

Chicken Siciliano.

At dinner that night, another excellent round of courses included a delicious Sicilian Chicken entrée.

Aft from Deck 14 at sea.

A balmy, slightly more humid evening on deck ensued with an occasional drizzle…

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Celebrity Central at St. Thomas.

Six mega ships called at St. Thomas this morning.  Princess’ EMERALD PRINCESS and HAL’s NOORDAM tied up around the bend at the Havensight Pier while CARNIVAL LIBERTY was the interloper in a “Celebrity sandwich” that included the anchored CELEBRITY CONSTELLATION, the already berthed CELEBRITY MILLENNIUM and CELEBRITY ECLIPSE at Charlotte Amalie.

St Thomas approach.

As the CARNIVAL LIBERTY sailed past the recently renovated, now Marriot-owned Frenchman’s Reef Hotel at the harbor’s entrance, I realized that this would be my first time at St. Thomas since the SS ROTTERDAM’s final Christmas cruise — way back in 1996!  Although I find St. Thomas overly commercialized, its waters are still pristine and its steep hills, a lush deep green.

Aft Deck 12 mini-golf.

I was up on deck for our arrival and managed to get a few more areas of the ship photographed, including the mini-golf course on aft Deck 12.  With most of CARNIVAL LIBERTY’s guests off on excursions or shopping expeditions, it would be my perfect opportunity to finish documenting and hopefully relax a bit while Charlotte Amalie did its best to absorb the influx of about 25,000 visiting cruise passengers and crew.

Smoked salmon and bagel starter.

Cheddar omelete and turkey bacon.

Lis and I descended to the Silver Olympian for a full service breakfast. I was impressed to find a turkey bacon option on the menu…

The Venetian Palace, facing forward from Deck 2.

Another chandelier that's ballooned...

Venetian mask ceiling detail.

Venetian mask table detail.

I’ll save most of the images for a full Decked! project but highlights included the Venetian Palace with its masks in the ceiling and cocktail table tops; a large chandelier with Chihuly-esque hand-spun “tied balloon” Murano glass fixtures; red, blue and yellow Murano glass tiles; and Harlequino figures at either side of the proscenium.

EA Sports Bar, facing aft.

Another “2.0″ venue that is off to a successful start is the EA Sports Bar on port Deck 5. It has an entire wall of 48 inch LED screens and a ticker that broadcasts up-to-the-minute sports events and scores.

The Cabinet, facing forward.

The Cabinet is a 147 seat cigar smokers’ lounge on aft Deck 4 that takes its decorative inspiration from the cabinetry of Biedermeier.

The Promenade, facing aft.

The Promenade is the main passageway on starboard Deck 5 that links most of the ship’s public spaces. Every Carnival ship since the 1985-built HOLIDAY has one.

In addition to a forthcoming MaritimeMatters Decked!, you can see many CARNIVAL LIBERTY views on a comprehensive USA Today Gallery by clicking here.

CARNIVAL LIBERTY above St. Thomas.

We did manage to get off the ship for a few minutes to take some photos before the influx of returning passengers.

CARNIVAL LIBERTY at St. Thomas.

Carnival’s DESTINY and CONQUEST platforms, the latter of which includes the CARNIVAL LIBERTY, have multi-faceted fore and aft superstructures.

A pristine LIBERTY bell.

Once again, timing was on our side.  For the greater part of the afternoon after we re boarded the LIBERTY, St. Thomas was drenched in a non-stop torrent of liquid sunshine.

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

CARNIVAL LIBERTY at San Juan.

The next morning found us in San Juan, another well-frequented Eastern Caribbean port. Not much had changed since my visit last year aboard Holland America’s NIEUW AMSTERDAM, although much of the waterfront was in a state of construction that made photography a bit more challenging than usual.

San Juan blues.

CARNIVAL LIBERTY at San Juan.

Lis and I wandered the charming stone and stucco-fronted streets of Old Town, settled in at plaza for a cappuccino and cafe au lait, then strolled the perimeter of El Morro Fortress before returning to the ship.

El Morro portal, San Juan.

We were up on the forward Deck 10 observation platform for the sail-away, then headed back to 8445 to watch from the comfort of our balcony as the LIBERTY passed the buttresses of El Morro.

Thursday, January 12, 2012

P&O (left) and Carnival (right) house flags over Grand Turk.

CARNIVAL LIBERTY at Grand Turk.

Carnival Corp. fleetmate, P&O’s 115,055 gross ton AZURA, was already berthed as CARNIVAL LIBERTY made her approach to Grand Turk. I last saw the AZURA high and dry in drydock Trieste’s San Marco shipyard when she was being painted prior to her 2010 sea trials. Now, instead of tarp and scaffolds, her decks were brimming with deck chairs and sun worshippers.

Grand Turk beach.

When I visited beautiful Grand Turk the year prior aboard the NIEUW AMSTERDAM I took  a bike and snorkel tour. Today, our goal was to find a nice beach and go for a refreshing swim — easily accomplished with a gorgeous strand adjacent to the cruise terminal.

CARNIVAL LIBERTY and AZURA at Grand Turk.

Grand Turk is blessed with fine coral sand and its waters are irresistible, although caution is advised where rocks and coral can pop up unexpectedly.

Fish and Chips.

Back on board the LIBERTY, Lis and I capped off another excellent lunch with an order of fish and chips from the upper level of Emile’s Lido, then lined the port side rails as AZURA prepared to sail.

AZURA departs Grand Turk.

There was nothing stuffy or demure about Britain’s largest mega ship as AZURA backed into the deep blue sea. Her midships lido pulsated with festivities that rivaled  those aboard the LIBERTY.

Thai Chicken starter in the Silver Olympian.

Tonight’s Silver Olympian standout was a succulent Chicken Satay starter.

Latin deck party wind-down.

Up on deck, well into the wee hours, with a following sea day to sleep it off, the Latin Party had worked itself into a frenzy. At one point, 250 guests formed a limbo line that completely encircled the midships pool area.

Friday, January 13, 2012

Sargasso Sea day.

One last day at sea day loomed between us and Miami’s dreaded cruise terminal.

Sea foam.

One final “sea set”, this time above the northbound CARNIVAL LIBERTY’s wake.

Romelito grooves.

In the dining room, our hardworking troika (Romelito, Viktor and Andre) proved once again that their best moves are not restricted to plates and cutlery.

Just as I started to nod off, the CNN ticker flashed the first alarming news reports of the LIBERTY’s near “cousin”, COSTA CONCORDIA.

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Maurizio mosaic.

Throughout the week, a mosaic panel (on Deck 9 near the Atrium) designed by the brilliant Maurizio Eliseo was hidden behind Spa Treatment banners. Today, as we were en route to a “huevos” breakfast at the BlueIguana grill, its fine details could be enjoyed.

Deck 9 suite, facing starboard.

After photographing the starboard Deck 9 Penthouse Suite (added in 2008) we “self assist” disembarked and wheeled our luggage off the ship and out of the terminal in a speedy 10 minutes.. Congratulations to Carnival for its new “Fun Ship 2.0″ enhancements but even more kudos for raising the “Contemporary” market bar on food quality and excellent service.  There really is no better cruise value for the money.

End of “Fun Ship 2.0″: For You and Me, For LIBERTY

Special thanks: Martin Cox, Jennifer De La Cruz, Vance Gulliksen, Lis Kemp, Pier-Giorgio Micallef

In November 2011, the CARNIVAL LIBERTY was the first ship in the Carnival fleet to receive the “Fun Ship 2.0” upgrade, launching a $500 million fleet wide enhancement project that will add dining and bar venues and a few entertainment perks. I joined the ship earlier this month for a seven night Eastern Caribbean cruise visiting St. Thomas, San Juan and Grand Turk.

Carnival Cruise Lines

Keep up to date with Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

Saturday, January 7, 2011

Fronds versus fins: CARNIVAL LIBERTY first sighting at Miami.

While crossing over to Miami’s Dodge Island, we detected a fairly busy Saturday, with Celebrity’s CELEBRITY ECLIPSE and CELEBRITY MILLENNIUM and NCL’s NORWEGIAN EPIC sharing the waterfront with Carnival’s 2006-built, 110,000 gross ton CARNIVAL LIBERTY.

Upper Echelon Digs: A CARNIVAL LIBERTY Suite.

My traveling companion Lis Kemp and I rolled our luggage up to the terminal early, hoping to be among the first to board. We joined some 3,300 fellow guests who rapidly filled the deck areas and many public rooms, so concentrated our efforts on a deck-by-deck spree of the accommodation, documenting one of each cabin category before “occupation” commenced. A full, future Decked! will show all…

Farcusian passage art: Zeus or Caesar?

Admittedly, there are times I have to dig out the builder’s book or press release to fully understand what legendary Carnival architect/interior designer Joseph Farcus is going for and while some (OK, most) of the color schemes and patterns might be a bit over the top, I appreciate that his work is neither mundane nor generic.

Hot and Cold Nightclub “hands in the air!”.

Splotch! A totally random nightclub carpet shot...

A coffee table picture book, especially if it included Mr. Farcus’ earlier, “tres outré” spaces on ships like the FESTIVALE (the Fanta-Z Disco!), FANTASY (neon!) and ECSTASY (Cats Lounge!), must one day be realized. The most prolific interior designer in the history of passenger shipping, he is to the modern cruise industry what Googie was to post war Las Vegas.

Token Twister shot.

After touring a few of the as-yet-uninhabited public spaces, we ventured up to the open decks to enjoy a particularly beautiful Miami afternoon. After my obligatory Twister slide shot (every Carnival blog must feature at least one), it was time for some food, glorious food!

Emile's, facing forward from starboard.

Emile’s is the 1,396 seat buffet style eatery that takes its inspiration from the glass work of Art Nouveau era Parisian artisan Emile Galle. By the way, the CARNIVAL LIBERTY’s overall decorative scheme is based on “the work of artisans”, which covers a lot of territory — from cabinet makers to stone masons, jewelers, painters, book binders, iron forgers and even spoon smiths.

Wok Like A Mongolian.

I discovered the Mongolian Wok far too late on my cruise aboard the CARNIVAL MAGIC last November. The lines were initially off-putting, but it turned out, more than worth the wait. Queueing up begins with an empty bowl, an assortment of fresh noodles, veggies and tongs…

Wok Man.

Once the bowl is handed to the cook, a steamy,  aromatic swirl of activity begins. There is a choice of chicken, beef or shrimp and three very authentic sauces that include Szechuan (spicy!), Black Bean (umami and tangy!) and Thai Barbeque (oops, never got around to it!). Lis, no stranger to cruises (she worked for years with Royal, Seabourn and Voyages of Discovery) and genuine Asian cuisine, quickly agreed. The Wok is almost confoundingly good, especially for a supposed “Mass Market cruise ship buffet”.

Cabin 8445, facing starboard.

At 1:30, the cabins were cleared for occupation, so we headed down to 8445, a Balcony Stateroom on aft/starboard Verandah Deck (8) to unpack, sort out the bedding and ask for a few extra pillows. All balcony staterooms come with two twins that convert to a king, a triple wardrobe, cotton bathrobes, flatscreen television, telephone, safe, sofa and coffee table, under bed and in-sofa storage, various cabinets and drawers and a bathroom with plenty of storage shelves and shower.

No plastic bottles...

Carnival has dispensed with the little plastic amenity bottles in favor of more environmentally-friendly shower dispensers. On the LIBERTY, I was happy to find them labeled, so I would not be washing my hair with gel and so forth…

LIBERTY and free samples for all...

I covet the free product samples Carnival provides, affording guests a random assortment of toothpaste, hand lotion and/or Breathe-Right snoring strips.

Open dome on sailing day.

We mustered for a very thorough boat drill on Deck 4, then went back up top for sail away. Did I mention that CARNIVAL LIBERTY and most of her fleet mates have acres of beautifully maintained, genuine teak decking?

Darting Dodge.

EPIC exodus.

CELEBRITY MILLENNIUM had somehow slipped past us and NORWEGIAN EPIC kept a narrow lead as we began to thrust away from Dodge Island. Even the distant CELEBRITY ECLIPSE was simultaneously loosening her lines to take up the processional rear.

Miami nice.

I’m definitely a “west” coaster but there was no denying the allure of Miami on a temperate, sea breeze-kissed sailing day…

Golden setting.

Pizza plus Parmigiana.

After we unpacked, we watched from the balcony as the more urgent Celebrity ship “eclipsed” us and the sun fizzled into the sea. I yearned for a little more fuel to spark up my daily gym session, so headed up to the perpetually-open Pizzeria for a double slice of Margherita doused in Reggiano Parmesan.  Yep, real pizza with homemade dough, tangy marinara and quality cheese…

Post-Pizza Penance, facing starboard.

Accessed via the Spa, the gym is a state-of-the-art facility on Deck 11 overlooking the bow through multi-faceted walls of glass. There are treadmills and stationary bikes, ten ellipticals, a full circuit of weight machines and free weights. Separate men’s and women’s facilities include large changing rooms, saunas and steam rooms.

Silver Olympian Dining Room, facing aft from Deck 3.

We were assigned a second seating table for two at 8:15 PM in the aft Silver Olympian Dining Room, which accommodates 1,122 guests and is bordered by full length windows on three sides.

Silver Olympian detail.

The Silver Olympian and its midships counterpart, the Golden Olympian, take their decorative inspiration from “the art of fashioning fine tableware”. It took us a moment to realize the large silver fixtures on the ceiling were actually over sized, back lit cutlery handles with a “CL” monogram ( for CARNIIVAL LIBERTY, of course).  Silver friezes depicting Greco-Roman figures, vitrines displaying vintage silver items and incongruously ominous cobalt lighting fixtures round out the room’s uniquely distinct features.

Silver Olympian setting.

Our Filipino dining stewards, Romelito, Viktor and Andre, instantly greeted us by name — this top notch trio was friendly, kind and uber-efficient, keeping the water, bread and multiple courses flowing. Small touches like making sure Lis’ setting had the pink charger and ensuring nightly cruets of balsamic vinegar and olive oil did not go unnoticed or unappreciated.

Gazpacho, first installment.

Gazpacho, second installment.

After some 200 cruises, I can once again assert that Carnival’s food and service is well above and beyond its “Mass Market” designation. With such an emphasis on “Fun” I wonder if the value factor and quality of Carnival’s cuisine aren’t often overlooked. For instance, some soups (like the deliciously authentic gazpacho) are served in two installments to keep the flavors from blending. Most “Premium” cruise lines wouldn’t bother to do this.

Chocolate Melting Cake with a dollop of vanilla ice cream.

And now that I have recently become a Carnival “regular”, I can once again testify on behalf of their Chocolate Melting Cake, a deliriously decadent coda to our most excellent first dinner on board the CARNIVAL LIBERTY.

Punchliners, facing forward/port.

We headed up to the 425 seat Punchliners, the former Victoria Lounge, which has a long bar overlooking the ship’s wake and vitrines with English-style Majolica pottery. As Punchliners, it is now home to some spirited karaoke fests and the new “Fun Ship 2.0” comedy acts that have been vetted by George Lopez in his recent teaming with Carnival.

Night Serenity, facing aft along port Deck 14.

From there, we strolled along the Deck 5 Promenade past the ship’s myriad clubs, bars and casino, into the pulsating-ly fiber optic Garden Villa Atrium and rode a panoramic elevator up to the top of the ship for a walk in the balmy sea air under a near full moon and stars.  …They were shining there for you and me…

Sunday, January 7, 2011

The Coffee Shop.

I skipped breakfast and bee-lined it to the Coffee Shop on Deck 5 for a double shot cappuccino. There are also Coffee Shop “outlets” in Emile’s Lido and in the Flower Bar on the Deck 3 level of the Garden Villa Atrium, the latter with the best, most flavorful results.

Golden Olympian, facing aft from Deck 4.

With a little time to spare before lunch, I decided to try and document the Golden Olympian, the 744 seat midships dining room.

Golden Olympian: The God is in the details.

Golden Olympian Murano.

In most respects, the detailing is the same as the Silver, albeit in tones of gold. The larger Silver has the added ambiance of windows overlooking the stern; otherwise, the two spaces are quite compatible.

Farcusian fin.

Perhaps Mr. Farcus’ most readily recognizable imprint on the world of cruising is Carnival’s distinctive funnel, introduced on its first newbuild, the TROPICALE of 1982. It was inspired by an airplane’s tail, although the concept of emitting exhaust to either side through wings was, of course, utilized two decades earlier on the SS FRANCE (later NORWAY) of 1961.

Southbound sea day on deck.

After lunch in Emile’s, we took a stroll around the upper decks. The pool areas were inundated with revelers, games, announcements and festive music…

Swinging in Serenity...

…which is why stodgier people like yours truly are so grateful for the two deck, adults-only Serenity area! I arrived a bit late to secure a deck chair but did manage a wind-whipped recline on the forward Deck 14 hammock with an outstanding view of the sea.

Silver Olympian tea.

Lis and I rendezvoused at 4:00 for afternoon tea in the Silver Olympian, where carts of sandwiches and sugary treats including scones with clotted cream, tarts and cakes rolled on up.

Starboard Deck 3 promenade, facing forward.

Peaceful deck.

After tea, we ventured out onto the underutilized teak promenades on Deck 3 for a close up view of the deep blue sea.

Fiery sunset aftermath.

A fiery sunset was my cue for the gym, where I would “pay it forward”, anticipating a particularly indulgent dinner.

Harry's, facing aft from port.

Harry’s, the ship’s 108 seat extra tariff ($30) steakhouse, takes its name from famed jeweler (aka artisan) Harry Winston. Situated on midships Deck 10, its decor includes vitrines with gold and jewel-like stones, diamond-patterned carpeting, Tivoli lights in necklace formations and…

Harry's detailing.

some totally “bling” light fixtures resplendent with over sized yellow diamonds!

All set for Harry's.

Settings in Harry’s feature Versace china, starched linens and elegant stemware.

Cuts to consider...

Prime USDA cuts, lobster and lamb are presented prior to ordering.

Contemplating condiments?

Gorgeous artisan breads come with a choice of baba ghanouj (eggplant dip), a marinated pepper tapenade or just plain “butta”.

Harry's Amuse Bouche.

And there is a nightly amuse bouche. This was a lovely pastiche of pomodoro with a crunchy crouton and melted mozzarella.

Vegetarian beefsteak with gorgonzola.

For those of us who do not eat red meat, there is plenty of “beef” in the form of a beefsteak tomato, arugula, slivered onions and gorgonzola salad, drizzled in pungent olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

Rosemary Chicken entrée.

I went with the rosemary-infused chicken entrée, which was utter perfection. From my experience, I can suggest that regular dining on Carnival is worth a $30 cover and the steakhouse is worth a $100 cover. And the indulgent service from the largely Eastern Bloc staff was absolutely, I’ll state it again, exemplary!

Baked potato with sides.

Somehow I was derelict in prime rib documenting duties, but suffice it to say Lis was thoroughly delighted with her main course, which was accompanied with a baked potato side and all the right toppings.

Caramel apple dessert.

The caramel apple dessert is exactly why we strategically planned to dine in Harry’s on a “sea day eve”. Further enhanced with a bottle of peppery Syrah, tomorrow’s perpetual achy blur would be well earned.

All Around The World in the Venetian Palace.

Somehow we made it to the show, “Around The World”, which featured a myriad of international settings in a global musical tribute. After taking one discreet, flashless photo, I was immediately admonished by a member of the cruise staff who darted across the vast showroom like a heat-seeking missile defending the show’s copyright. No more photos of Carnival entertainment for this blogger…

Piano Bar, facing aft.

Afterwards, we enjoyed a walk around the lively ship. In the Seaside Theater, a movie was showing; in the Flower Bar, there was a bluesy country singer; in the Casino-adjacent Promenade Bar, a bluesy rock trio; in the Hot and Cold Nightclub, pulsating dance music; in Punchliners, a bawdy 2.0 comedian; and in the Piano Bar, a frolicky sing-along.

Totally random Piano Bar carpet shot.

As soon as our feet touched the distinctive carpet of the Piano Bar, we were greeted by an entire room full of people with, “Come On In!”

Towel frog.

And in our cabin, a towel frog bid good night…

End of “Fun Ship 2.0″: For You and Me, For LIBERTY, Part One

Much More To Come…

Special thanks: Martin Cox, Jennifer De La Cruz, Vance Gulliksen, Lis Kemp, Pier-Giorgio Micallef

Keep up to date with MaritimeMatters’ Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

Azamara Club Cruises

AZAMARA JOURNEY off Loreto, Mexico. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2011.

An eight night TITANIC 100th anniversary memorial voyage will depart New York on April 10 aboard Azamara Club Cruises’ 30,277 gt MV AZAMARA JOURNEY. UK-based Miles Morgan Travel is chartering the ship for this once-in-a-lifetime sailing, which will include a visit to Halifax, Nova Scotia, where there will be opportunities to visit three cemeteries (Fairview Lawn Cemetery,
 Mount Olivet Catholic Cemetery, Baron de Hirsch Jewish Cemetery)
 with TITANIC victims.

Captain Johannes Tysse aboard AZAMARA JOURNEY. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2011.

On April 15, under the command of Captain Johannes Tysse, the AZAMARA JOURNEY will stop at the TITANIC site and hold a memorial service at 2:20 AM, the time that the White Star liner foundered.

RMS TITANIC commemorative post card. Peter Knego collection.

ALLURE OF THE SEAS off Port Everglades. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2011.

In addition to special events, entertainment and cuisine with a TITANIC and/or Edwardian theme, a distinguished group of guest lecturers will be joining the ship. Among the speakers will be Royal Caribbean International’s VP of Marine Operations, Captain William Wright, who also commands the world’s largest cruise ships, the OASIS OF THE SEAS and ALLURE OF THE SEAS. Captain Wright was kind enough to grant MaritimeMatters an exclusive interview about his sea-going career, the operation of RCI’s state-of-the-art vessels and the upcoming TITANIC Memorial Cruise.

Captain William Wright aboard FREEDOM OF THE SEAS. Photo courtesy of Royal Caribbean International.

When he was a young boy, William Wright’s mother jokingly warned that if he spent any more time in the water, “rust would set in”. With Miami’s warm turquoise seas at his disposal, the young Wright actively pursued swimming, diving and fishing. He would soon operate dinghies, sailboats and fishing craft, eventually working in the business of chartering and skippering sailing yachts and dive boats.

Wright fell in love with a Norwegian girl and moved to Norway where they married and he upgraded his seafaring license to a Masters Degree in Marine Engineering at the Vestfold College in Tønsburg (near Oslo). After working aboard several ferries that crossed between Denmark and Norway, he took charge of the largest marina in Norway, an experience that included diverse operations such as fuel bunkering and maintenance of a land-based facility.

In the early 1990s, he returned to Miami, joining Royal Caribbean in June of 1992 as the first navigation officer on board the 1971-built NORDIC PRINCE. He worked on the other two “classics”, the 1970-built SONG OF NORWAY and 1972-built SUN VIKING, moving up the ranks from first to chief officer, then staff captain. In 1995, he became master of the SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS and went on to other ships such as the ENCHANTMENT, GRANDEUR and RADIANCE OF THE SEAS. In 2001, he was asked to take over as Senior Vice President of Safety, Security and Environment for both RCI and its Celebrity Cruises subdivision, spending the next four years in land-based duties.

In 2005, Wright was appointed SVP of Marine Operations and shortly thereafter, took command of what was then the world’s largest passenger ship, the 154,407 gt FREEDOM OF THE SEAS. From that point onward, he maintained dual roles in land and sea-based management for Royal Caribbean — unlike most cruise line heads of Marine Ops, whose duties are strictly land-based.

Captain Wright not only introduced the yacht-like CELEBRITY EXPEDITION to Galapagos Cruising, he was the first captain of both the OASIS OF THE SEAS and the ALLURE OF THE SEAS. Wright oversees the operation of all the Royal Caribbean ships as well as the ships that sail for the company’s two subsidiaries, Celebrity Cruises and Azamara Club Cruises. He will be adding another interesting facet to his maritime career by joining the AZAMARA JOURNEY in April as a lecturer for this very special TITANIC 100th Anniversary cruise.

ALLURE OF THE SEAS exiting Port Everglades. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2011.

I recently had a chance to ask Captain Wright about what it is like to command ships the size of OASIS and ALLURE. Despite their 225,282 gross tonnage, which is 50% larger than the next biggest ships (RCI’s FREEDOM Class), Wright assured,”From the perspective of maneuvering, the OASIS Class is in essence the same as the FREEDOM, thanks to the advanced technology, more thrusters and a larger crew.”

He added, “The biggest challenge of mastering the OASIS and ALLURE is being responsible for 8,000 people and such a wide variety of venues. Also, of course, getting from one part of the ship to another takes much more time than it does on smaller ships, so sometimes I have to plan where I am going well in advance.”

FREEDOM OF THE SEAS at Cozumel, Mexico. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2011.

“On the JOURNEY, I look forward to giving some perspective on what being captain of the world’s largest ship is like today in contrast to the era of the TITANIC. Interestingly, on the delivery voyage of the FREEDOM OF THE SEAS, we crossed from Southampton on almost the exact same route the TITANIC took (without tendering at Cork), at a similar time of year (early May versus mid April). Of course, the FREEDOM completed her crossing without incident, unlike the TITANIC. It took a chain of events to sink the TITANIC and if any one of the factors that led to its demise was averted, the story would have ended much differently.”

“I also look forward to presenting some exclusive, exciting videos on the building of the OASIS and ALLURE.”, he added.

When asked about Royal Caribbean’s upcoming Project Sunshine, an entirely new class of ships (the first of which will enter service in late 2014) he remained tight-lipped, only indicating that it will be slightly larger than the FREEDOM Class and will be offering some exciting new “wows” to the world of cruising.

An A-list of maritime luminaries will be joining Captain Wright at the lectern, including Ken Marschall, whose life-like paintings helped inspire James Cameron to make the 1998 blockbuster movie. Ken served as a consultant on the film and has made several dives to the wreck. He is considered one of the great authorities on the subject.

William H. Miller (left) with Robert Neal Marshall, producer/director of the "Mr. Ocean Liner" documentary tribute to Bill Miller. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2010.

“Mr. Ocean Liner”, Bill Miller, author of dozens of ocean liner books and quite possibly the world’s most popular maritime lecturer, will be on hand to make sure the AZAMARA JOURNEY’s theater remains filled.

Gunter Babler, president of the Swiss TITANIC Society will also be among the growing list of lecturers and historians on board.

AZAMARA JOURNEY off Loreto, Mexico. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2011.

The 697 passenger, 2000-built AZAMARA JOURNEY is an intimate cruise ship with modern amenities. Azamara Club Cruises is an “all-inclusive” line providing complimentary specialty coffees, wine and beer with lunch and dinner and gratuities for staff in the fare.

AZAMARA JOURNEY midships lido area. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2011.

The AZAMARA JOURNEY has an inviting midships lido area with a large pool and two Jacuzzis in addition to a jogging track and observation deck.

AZAMARA JOURNEY Discoveries Bar. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2011.

Edwardian detailing aboard AZAMARA JOURNEY. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2011.

Looking upwards from Reception Foyer, AZAMARA JOURNEY. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2011.

AZAMARA JOUREY grand staircase. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2011.

The handsome vessel has Edwardian-inspired public rooms that will make an ideal backdrop for this particular voyage.

For more on the AZAMARA JOURNEY:

AZAMARA JOURNEY To The Sea Of Cortez Sea Trek

AZAMARA JOURNEY USA Today Cruise Log Photo Gallery

Rates for the 8-night cruise start at $4,900 per person.

For more inquiries and booking information, please click here

Special thanks:  Ernie Beyl, Harrison Liu

Keep up to date with MaritimeMatters’ Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

Carnival Cruises

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2011

Friday, November 18, 2011

Sidling up to the VALOR at Cozumel.

Cozumel has some of the most beautiful water in the world but when we arose, that breathtaking blue was occupied by no less than three NCL ships, RCI’s FREEDOM OF THE SEAS, CARNIVAL CONQUEST and CARNIVAL VALOR in addition to the freshly-arrived MAGIC. The resulting 30K influx of visiting passengers and crew was a good reason to spend a leisurely day on board our air conditioned ship.

Grand Carnival Canyon, Cozumel.

Double fun at Cozumel: CARNIVAL MAGIC (left) meets CARNIVAL VALOR (right).

Even so, we went ashore for a few minutes to get some photos.

Platform of ships at Cozumel.

A good percentage of fellow passengers also decided to stay on board and enjoy the Water Works aqua park, which was all the more alluring in the heat and humidity of Cozumel. From the top of the slide platform, there was a fantastic perspective of the neighboring ships.

Drenched! from above.

CARNIVAL MAGIC drenching from below.

As the slides gushed forth their cargo of thrill-seekers, the “Drencher” fulfilled its task by repeatedly dumping a cascade of water atop frolickers in the Aqua Play splash park below.

Fun-nelfest.

Further aft at Sportsquare, putters enjoyed the nine hole mini-golf course while a braver breed scaled the ropes course.

Outdoor exercise deck.

Unfortunately, I never got around to trying the outdoor fitness area but I love the concept.

Tandoori tiempo.

While exploring, we stumbled upon the Tandoori station in the far aft/starboard portion of the Lido Restaurant and dove into its fantastic spread of curries, basmati rice, lentil and chicken dishes. It’s the “real deal” for fans of Indian cuisine and even has a few Middle Eastern treats like hummus. Note to naysayers:  anyone who questions the quality of Carnival’s cuisine must not have sailed with the line in recent years.

VALOR vacates.

Horn bellowing, CARNIVAL VALOR led the floating exodus from Cozumel.

Ciao to CONQUEST!

We followed the VALOR in tandem with the CARNIVAL CONQUEST, which was berthed on the opposite side of RCI’s FREEDOM OF THE SEAS. I must say, those RCI ships have the gutsiest whistles afloat and it was nice to witness a hearty exchange between the rival ships. For a while, the MAGIC followed the VALOR and CONQUEST before overtaking both in the late evening.

Cucnia del Capitano, facing forward from port.

In the interim, we got to try the Italian dining venue, the 117 seat Cucina del Capitano, overlooking the Lido from aft Deck 11. While Carnival is American-owned, the company is steeped in Italian culture and lore.  Most of the post-FANTASY class newbuilds were constructed in Italy and most of the senior officers on its early ships were Italian (many of whom worked with the legendary Italian Line).

Stephen Card painting of SS MARDI GRAS on its first cruise to Israel in 1973.

The decor is a combination of traditional Italian trattoria (checkered tablecloths, rustic chairs and warm wood tones) with archival Carnival imagery of the first three ships (MARDI GRAS — ex EMPRESS OF CANADA, CARNIVALE — ex EMPRESS OF BRITAIN and FESTIVALE — ex TRANSVAAL CASTLE). It’s great to see Carnival finally saluting its past and hopefully the trend will continue with future ships. On that topic, here are links to some key decorative artifacts from the beautiful MARDI GRAS and CARNIVALE that were recently rescued from the shipbreakers in India:

SS MARDI GRAS, ex EMPRESS OF CANADA glass screen
SS CARNIVALE, ex EMPRESS OF BRITAIN glass screen
Tourist Class Dining Room Doors from SS CARNIVALE, ex EMPRESS OF BRITAIN

What many people do not know is just what exquisite ships the first three Carnival vessels were. Although they lacked many of the modern facilities of today’s mega ships, they were extraordinarily well built and filled with classic elements of etched glass, burled woods, nickel and brass.

Roll out the barrel...

Dinner in Cucnia del Capitano is an incredibly reasonable $12 per person. For an additional $26, one can purchase a tall carafe of chianti, which is dispensed from a large oak barrel on wheels.

Beginning with bread and booze.

Toasted bread is served with roasted garlic, cherry tomatoes and goat cheese in addition to olive oil, balsamic vinegar and butter.

Magical minestrone.

My Italian dining odyssey began with a savory minestrone topped with Parmesan and fresh basil. A big “Hvratska!” to the many Croatian waiters who over indulged us with attentive service and a “Volaré” serenade.

Melanzane parmigiano.

Had I realized just how big the entrée would be, I might have backed off my delicious eggplant parmigiana appetizer.

Antipasti della Cucina.

Tom enjoyed a tasty Antipasti della cucina.

Gigantic pollo parmigiano.

My pollo parmigiana must have come from an ostrich, the breast was so large. I rarely don’t finish a plate but this one filled me up half way through. Absolutely delicious, though…

Apple tart dolci.

And, just too good to resist, my requisite apple tart — a staple dessert in varying forms in all Carnival dining venues.

The penultimate night marched on with the final performance of the quirky, game show-themed “Win” in the Showtime Theater; comedy by John Wesley Austin and Mutzie in the Spotlight Lounge; 90s and Old School Rock in the Vibe Nightclub; and a screening of “50 First Dates” in the Seaside Theater.

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Lanai buttress.

Once again rested, I parted the curtains to a brilliant sun on our final day at sea. The fully-encircling Lanais on the DREAM class are a fantastic feature reminiscent of the grand promenades of liners past but with the added coup of six buttresses that jut over the sea (four of which are equipped with jaccuzzis).

Galley tour begins.

At 10:30, I joined the press group for a special tour of the MAGIC’s galley. The bakers were dressing plates for the lunch dessert, a caramelized banana cream pie….

Pasta cauldron.

…and, just as we passed, a giant cauldron of fresh pasta boiled over. The entire galley-to-plate process is a mind boggle but Carnival has it so finely honed that it appears relatively effortless.

Wheelhouse, facing port.

Toda forca.

Our next stop was the bridge, where we were given a chance to see the “brain” of the CARNIVAL MAGIC in action.

Aft from port Deck 9.

Another nice architectural touch with the DREAM class are the open platforms overlooking the bow. On forward Deck 9, wings extend out from above the bridge, affording a nice view of the ship plunging through the sea.

Southern Lights chicken casear.

Since we hadn’t yet had a sit down lunch in the dining room, we headed to the aft-situated Southern Lights where we both ordered a delicious chicken Caesar salad. Since I wanted to also sample the Wok in the Lido Restaurant, I kept it at that.

Lido, facing aft from starboard.

Even at peak dining times, the 826 seat Lido Marketplace never felt overly crowded. The casual dining venue is home to a number of “action stations”, including a great salad bar, warm entrées, a deli, Mexican, Indian and desserts.

Chande-lido!

The aft portion of the Lido has a small atrium topped with three huge chandeliers.

Chocolate fondue.

While it would have been tempting to park at the Chocolate Extravaganza’s fondue, I bee-lined it to the Wok station.

Wok happenings.

There is a reason why a line extends out to the pool area at lunchtime for the Wok station. Guests select a variety of veggies and two types of noodles that are added to any combination of fresh shrimp, chicken or pork in a stir frying frenzy.

Stir fry guy.

Seasonings included authentic black bean sauce, Thai barbeque and potent Szechuan.

Chicken with black bean and scechuan sauce.

My only regret was not having tried the Wok sooner. I missed sampling the Mexican station but figured two lunches was enough for one day.

"I'm leaving on a Fun Ship..."

Packing, the gym and trying to post one of these blogs took up the rest of the day. At dinner, we bade farewell to new friends as the waiters all gathered for a weepy “I’m Leaving……On a Fun Ship” rendition.

A wake all night.

A last walk around the decks, more packing, then lights out…

Sunday, November 20, 2011

That was fun ya'll...

In the madness of retrieving luggage and filing through customs lines in cruise terminal, it was once again apparent that the CARNIVAL MAGIC is a really, really big ship. What a testament it was to clever design that during the course of the prior week, we rarely felt the crunch of 3,700 fellow souls.

Well done Carnival and, indeed, much fun!

End of CARNIVAL MAGIC’s U.S. Debut Sea Treks Blog

If you enjoyed this post and are on Facebook, please let us know by clicking the “like” or “recommend” button at the top of the page. Thank you.

Special Thanks: Martin Cox, Jennifer De La Cruz, Vance Gulliksen, Tom Nicolai

Keep up to date with MaritimeMatters’ Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

Carnival Cruises

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2011

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Although it would have been great to finally visit Costa Maya as originally scheduled, the CARNIVAL MAGIC’s revised itinerary with an overnight in Progreso meant I could make a long-awaited return to Chichen-Itza, one of the most mesmerizing and beautiful archaeological sites in the world.

Deli-ted to go.

Tom booked us on a ten hour excursion (including dinner and a light show) that left the Progreso pier at 12:30. A toasted turkey and swiss sandwich from the perpetually open Deli would get us both lunched and launched.

ELATION Overview.

Meanwhile, berthed next to us was the CARNIVAL ELATION, the seventh of eight FANTASY class ships, which when introduced between 1990 and 1998, were among the largest in the world. Today, the Finnish-built, pod-driven 70,000 gt CARNIVAL ELATION enjoys “mid-sized classic” status but looked particularly spruce with her spotless paintwork and freshly scrubbed, genuine teak decks.

Carnival Canyon, Progreso style.

From pier level, the vastly different ships formed a lopsided Fun Ship ravine. This would be the first of two such “Carnival Canyons” the MAGIC would create during her inaugural cruise.

CARNIVAL ELATION and CARNIVAL MAGIC at Progreso.

Leaving the CARNIVAL ELATION and CARNIVAL MAGIC in our wake, we stepped onto the coach where our guide, Carlos, began to brief us on the history, geography and culture of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula.

It's a long, long way to...Progreso...

Did I mention that Progreso has, at four miles, the world’s longest pier? It took ten minutes just to get from the ship to solid land.  Our ensuing two and a half hour drive to Chichen Itza would also pass through the city of Merida before entering the farmlands and jungle of the Yucatan.

On the road to Chichen Itza.

Finally, the coach turned into a settlement of restaurants and hotels on the outskirts of Chichen-Itza. When we pulled into the parking lot, it was evident we would not be alone — dozens of “fellow” coaches were offloading their similarly curious cargo.

Steps of Kulkulcan.

We were herded through a turnstyle and under a canopy of trees. Beyond the craggy branches, the 100 foot tall form of the “winged serpent” KulKulcan (also referred to as El Castillo) loomed, its symmetrical, stepped sides a study in architectural perfection. Even though the Aztecs and Egyptians have built greater pyramids, in my opinion, Kulkulcan is probably the world’s most beautiful.

Serpent's trail of Kulkulcan.

A slight breeze kept us relatively refreshed in the jungle humidity as dramatic clouds puffed across the deep blue sky. Carlos explained how Kulkulcan was built with 365 steps (including the top platform) to form a perfect year and that the sun’s shadow cast on the northwest edge of the pyramid took on the illusion of the descending, feathered serpent during the Spring and Autumn Solstice.

Feathered Serpent's mouth, Kulkulcan.

In the shade of the pyramid, we stood within striking distance of the serpent as iguanas foraged in the adjacent ruins.

Carlos to crowd in front of Temple of the Warriors.

Alas, the Mayans were as bloody as they were brilliant. Just beyond Kulkulcan, the Temple of the Warriors was an epicenter of human sacrifice, where the victim’s heart would be cut out and placed as an offering to the Gods on a reclining Chac Mool statue. The temple complex includes a large stepped pyramid surrounded by columns with carved warriors.

Cenote.

Of the two large sinkholes or cenotes adjacent to Chichen-Itza, one had a particularly gruesome past. Archaeologists have recovered bones of children, supposed virgins and prisoners of war that were hurled into the 70 foot deep pit of water. Of course, to the Mayans, such a death was considered an honor as it was an offering to the gods. The victims were cleansed in a nearby sauna and often sacrificed prior to their murky dispatch.

Kulkulcan, Temple of Venus and wall of skulls.

On our return, we stopped to view the Tzompantli or Wall of Skulls, a wall with engraved likenesses of human crania. The Temple of Venus with its exquisitely carved serpents’ heads and Kulkulcan loomed just beyond.

Games court structure.

The Games Court was closed for renovations but Carlos explained how one member of the losing team would be sacrificed as an offering to the Gods. Interestingly, on my prior visit, the guide told us that the actual honor went to a member of the winning team. Since the conquistadors destroyed almost all of the Mayan tablets, we may never know the precise story.

Kulkulcan unrestored side.

There was only 30 minutes left to explore on our own, so I headed past the un restored south side of Kulkulcan in search of the Observatory.

Pillars and Platforms.

The late afternoon lighting on the Temple of the Warriors was especially dramatic with its rows of shaded columns in the foreground.

Observatory.

When I finally reached the Observatory, a guard halted me. Access is denied at 4:30 but he kindly looked the other way when I promised to take just one photo and get out. Nicknamed El Caracol (“the snail”) because of its inner spiral stone stairs, the building is theorized to have been conceived with doors and windows aligned to gauge the path of Venus.

Beer bottle dancers.

After the bus lingered an extra 30 minutes for two tardy touristas, we headed to a nearby restaurant for the included dinner. Unfortunately, the simultaneous influx of two bus loads of visitors depleted the food supplies, creating a snarl in the buffet line. While the chefs did their human best to restock the otherwise excellent tamales and taquitos, we sat and watched a group of young folklorics dance with bottles of beer on their head.

Serpent's trail phantasm.

We returned to Chichen-Itza slathered in insect repellent to watch the light show. Even though there was not a lot of variety in the presentation, seeing those magical structures lit in a spectrum of color under the jungle sky was otherworldly. And, speaking of other worlds, I haven’t seen so many vivid shooting stars in my lifetime.

CARNIVAL MAGIC on a Progreso night.

It was lights out for the return drive to Progreso. The air conditioning decided to work overtime, putting us in a frosted state of drowsiness, bus windows streaked in condensation. As we approached the pier, we could see fireworks but by the time we arrived at the brilliantly lit ship, they had stopped.

"Doctor No" by the pool.

We weren’t actually hungry when we ascended to the midships pool but the pizza was too much to resist. Carnival’s pizza is “the real deal” and I am sure the ship’s Italian officers would not require prodding to agree. Overhead on the 270 square foot LED screen, the charmingly MidCentury “Dr. No” was being broadcast to an audience clutching bags of freshly popped corn.

Thursday, November 17, 2011

CARNIVAL MAGIC at Progreso.

Although there were frequent shuttles to Progreso and a menu of tours available, we chose to stay close to the ship. For me, it would be nice to catch up on this blog series and enjoy a leisurely day on board.

Thruster ladder, port side.

Thruster ladder, starboard side.

As divers repaired the CARNIVAL MAGIC’s thruster, we wandered ashore into the shopping complex in search of Toltec tchotzkes.

Progreso shopping.

Amazing how the “hand painted” ceramic in one shop was $35 and in another, one with the exact same likeness was only $5. The friendly shop with the $5 bauble won me over and ended up offloading a small basket full of hot sauce and Mayan-themed trinkets that would have to be strategically packed.

Red/orange bollard.

Our ship looked quite handsome in the brilliant sun. I rather like the full figured CARNIVAL MAGIC’s rounded lines. Even the brightly painted bollards seemed to bask in a Mayan afterglow.

At 5:00 PM, Carnival’s latest hardware, with thruster freshly repaired (hopefully for good this time), pivoted away from Progreso. She made an easterly course along the northern shores of Yucatan and turned south in the evening hours. The rest of my day was non-eventful (the way I like it) with more eating, which I kept in check with yet another hearty work out.

Prime Steakhouse, facing aft.

Dinner in the extra tariff Prime Steakhouse ($30) at 8:30 was yet another indulgence not to be missed.

Prime Steakhouse amuse bouche.

We were all served a variety of artful amuses-bouches.

Prime bread spreads.

Artisan breads come with a trio of spreads: eggplant, butter and olive.

Prime crab cakes.

I forgot to take a photo of the crab cake appetizer before I squeezed the lime…

Steakhouse caesar salad.

The Caesar salad was delivered and then dressed with grated Parmesan and a dollop of anchovies.

Steakhouse chicken.

And, ahh, that roasted rosemary garlic-infused chicken entrée — one of the best at sea!

Steakhouse apple tart.

I finished up with an apple tart. Was it just me or does Carnival always have a perfect apple-infused dessert to offer in all of its venues?

The rest of the evening became a wine and sugar-induced blur.

End of Third Post. Much More To Come….

If you enjoyed this post and are on Facebook, please click the “like” button at the top of the page. Thank you.

Special Thanks: Martin Cox, Jennifer De La Cruz, Vance Gulliksen, Tom Nicolai

Keep up to date with MaritimeMatters’ Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

Carnival Cruises

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2011

Monday, November 14, 2011

Pretty Pornpun preps another cappuccino in the Plaza Coffee Bar.

To jump start a frantic documentation spree of the public areas on Deck 5, we stopped for a cappuccino ($2.95 for a tall; $3.50 for a grande) at the Plaza Coffee Bar. I don’t mind paying for a cappuccino with some flavor and Carnival’s Viennese Coffeeshop brews have it!

CARNIVAL MAGIC pool area facing aft from Deck 11.

With the overnight guests off the ship at 10:00, there was just a short turn-around before the inaugural passengers began to file on board. After covering a few cabin categories (a forthcoming “Decked! series will feature these and much more), much to the relief of the busy stewards, we switched to the upper decks. The Beach Pool has an incredible amount of open space for deck chairs and al fresco casual dining. At night, it becomes the Seaside Theater with free popcorn and deck blankets. The Beach Bar and 24 hour Pizzeria (excellent pizza, by the way) are adjacent in addition to the Lido and outdoor Cafe.

Sky Track, facing aft.

In addition to the expanded WaterWorks on forward Deck 14 (more on that later), the CARNIVAL MAGIC introduces an outdoor SportsSquare on midships Deck 12 with a Sky Track ropes course, dual level mini-golf, a jogging track and the industry’s first open air exercise equipment.

Atrium, facing up from Deck 3.

Bon luggage.

As the ship began to fill, we grabbed lunch in the Lido, then headed ashore to explore a bit more of Galveston.

CARNIVAL MAGIC on sailing day.

The waterfront restaurants and cafes were agog with oglers as the MAGIC towered impressively overhead.

Tall Ship ELISSA at Galveston.

This was our chance to pay a visit to the historic ELISSA at the Texas Maritime Museum. For $8 per person, admission includes a screening of a documentary about the ship that details her painstaking rescue from Greek scrappers and the tow to Galveston for one of the most thorough sailing ship restorations ever undertaken (tagged at $4.2million).

Tall ship ELISSA view through the porthole.

Even though she would fit snugly in one of CARNIVAL MAGIC’s lido areas, the ELISSA has two full decks to explore, with open teak under a canopy of masts and rigging, a large hold, officers’ quarters and engine room.

ELISSA 1877 builder's plate.

Remarkably, the ship’s original builder’s plate was left intact, even during the ELISSA’s downtrodden years as a Greek smuggling ship.

Carriage on Strand Street.

The Strand is a short walk from the museum and lined with picturesque Victorian era buildings that survived the 1900 Storm. Restored in the 1980s and 1990s, the district contains once of the U.S.’ largest concentrations of Victorian iron front property.

Fins overhead at Galveston Cruise Terminal.

Glad to have experienced more of Galveston than just a mere coach or cab ride to embark the ship, I returned to the CARNIVAL MAGIC in the late afternoon.

CARNIVAL MAGIC fitness center, facing port.

After dropping off the cameras, it was time for a restorative workout in the ship’s outstanding fitness center. Throughout the week, the gym provided a perfect antidote for all the eating and drinking. And it was never crowded…

MAGIC Summit: Captain Cutugno and blogger extraordinaire John Heald confer.

The press group met for cocktails in the Play It Again Sam Piano Bar, where we were joined by Carnival’s senior cruise director, blogmeister and unofficial “Secretary of State”, John Heald. Heald had spent the prior day emceeing Maroon 5, greeting VIPs, making speeches and basically charming the hell out of everyone. He has also been spending time at the newbuilding CARNIVAL BREEZE, which is under construction at Monfalcone. Although mum with specific details, he did hint that there will be several new features to look for on the third DREAM class ship. At one point, Captain Cutugno came in for a quick visit and we soon learned that an ongoing problem with the MAGIC’s stern thruster would mean our call at Costa Maya would be aborted in favor of spending two days in Progreso where divers would make repairs.

Going gazpacho.

Another excellent dinner in the Northern Lights began with a sublime Gazpacho Andalusia that was poured atop finely chopped onions, cilantro and peppers. Premium Class quality on a Mass Market ship.

Creme brulée.

Night wing.

After dinner, we worked our way around the Deck 5 Lanai with its buttressing jaccuzzis and nooks and crannies filled with revelers. And up forward, we clung to the rails for a spectacular, wind-whipped view of the stars.

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

RedFrog Pub, facing port.

Nothing but nothing beats a long, much-needed sleep in! I arose in time to join the press group at the RedFrog Pub for lunch. The 100 seat, island-themed watering hole serves up Caribbean-style snacks and brews, including ThirstyFrog Red, a private-label draught beer custom-brewed for Carnival. On the MAGIC’s maiden voyage last spring, so much of it was guzzled that extra supplies had to be specially flown to the ship in Italy.

RedFrog grouper fingers and brew.

Our host, Vance, ordered up two 101 ounce tubes of beer ($25.75) and baskets of dishes (priced at $3.33 a piece) that included Bahamian conch salad, grouper fingers, firecracker Jamaican chicken wings, and more.

Red Frog grub.

RedFrog Pub also serves top-rated Caribbean rums, a collection of the region’s best beers and an assortment of tropical cocktails and mojitos.

View from the top.

Emboldened or perhaps just inebriated by our visit to RedFrog, we were off to Deck 14 and the WaterWorks aqua park with its 312 foot long Twister spiral water slide (the yellow one) and Drain Pipe funnel type slide (orange).

Orange vortex.

Now I know what it feels like to be shot through the equivalent of a wet, serpentine cannon — this may be the ultimate shipboard thrill ride but it is definitely not for the fragile of body or mind!

Serenity, facing aft from starboard.

After stumbling out of the troughs at the end of each waterslide, Serenity beckoned. The adults-only sanctuary atop Deck 15 is a wonderful retreat with cushioned seating, deck chairs and hammocks.

In cabin crudites.

Since my traveling companion, Tom Nicolai, is a “platinum” status cruiser with over ten Carnival sailings, our cabin was the recipient of a complimentary late afternoon tray of canapés.

Caramelized apple puff pastry.

Our third dinner was yet another feast par excellence, capped off with a stunning caramelized apple puff pastry to rival any dessert at sea.

Showtime Theater, facing forward from Deck 5.

70's show in the Showtime Theater.

The energetic, talented and well-rehearsed Carnival Magic Dancers, Magic Showband and lead singers Monquez Pippins and Adriane Hall performed “The Groove Line”, a tribute to funky 70s music.

Post show confetti meets random carpeting.

End of Second Post. Much More To Come….

If you enjoyed this post and are on Facebook, please click the “like” button at the top of the page. Thank you.

Special Thanks: Leah Cast, Martin Cox, Jennifer De La Cruz, Vance Gulliksen, Tom Nicolai

Join Peter Knego aboard Carnival Cruises 130,000 ton, 3,600 passenger CARNIVAL MAGIC as the ship makes her American debut in scenic Galveston. This first in a series of Sea Treks also visits some of Galveston’s attractions, in addition to providing some first impressions of Carnival’s most advanced hardware.

Keep up to date with MaritimeMatters’ Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

Carnival Cruises

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2011

Saturday, November 12, 2011

View from San Luis Hotel, Galveston.

Not every potential cruise passenger thinks of Galveston as a destination unto itself, which is why I joined a small press group for a somewhat frantic visit prior to boarding Carnival Cruise Line’s 130,000 ton CARNIVAL MAGIC for an overnight inaugural celebration and six night sailing to the Yucatan. Within moments of dropping off my luggage at the 30 acre San Luis Resort Spa and Conference Center overlooking the Gulf of Mexico, I was on a shuttle bus munching popcorn to a certain Glenn Campbell tune that would ring in my ears over the next two days.

Ike reminder.

Just three years prior, the 32 mile long island was besieged by Hurricane Ike, which took out a wide swath of waterfront property. Galveston has had many near misses and quite a few devastating hits over the years, including a storm in 1900 that killed 6000 and flattened a third of the island in the deadliest natural disaster in American history.

Hotel Galvez, Galveston.

We picked up more journalists at the nearby Hotel Galvez, an historic 1911-built property that has been the subject of many recent paranormal “sightings”.

Schlitterbahn wave runner in action.

Our first stop was the Schlitterbahn Galveston Island Waterpark, which had largely been shut down for the winter. Huge tube slides, three kid’s activity areas and beaches are all interconnected by a winding waterway where one can just float onward to the next attraction. The indoor portion of Schlitterbahn is open year-round and includes a wave-runner ride that was awfully tempting after my long commute.

Continental DC-3 at Lone Star Air Museum.

Within moments, we were entering the Lone Star Flight Museum, the ultimate plane-lovers’ paradise with a collection of still-active war planes and a very sleek Continental Airlines DC-3. Our guide, Mitchell, had an encyclopedic command of the subject matter and an enthusiasm that this particular ship lover could relate to.

Moody's Penguins.

Moody Gardens’ trio of glass pyramids is one of the first things one sees when crossing the causeway to Galveston. We had a behind-the-scenes tour of the Aquarium with its shark tanks and tunnel, penguin tank and much more.

Moody's Rainforest.

In the Rainforest Pyramid, there was a butterfly exhibit, exotic birds, anacondas and even a few camera-shy vipers to peruse.

We really needed much more time to fully enjoy the sites but our hosts had already made a convincing argument that Galveston has much to offer families for pre and post cruise visits.

Sunday, November 13, 2011

First glimpse of CARNIVAL MAGIC.

There would be no rest for the wicked today, either. At 8:00 AM, I stumbled out of my hotel room, and, while racing down the passage to catch the elevator, spied the massive form of CARNIVAL MAGIC hovering over the Galveston skyline. Carnival’s PR team had done a brilliant job in getting the word out with the ship’s arrival making the front page of the Galveston paper, as well as ubiquitous posters, billboards and flyers welcoming the ship. Indeed, Galveston does “heart” MAGIC!

Bishop's Palace, Galveston.

Our shuttle delivered us to the beautiful Bishop’s Palace, a stone mansion that was built in 1892 for Colonel Walter Gresham, a wealthy lawyer. Designed by prominent Victorian-era architect Nicholas Clayton, it is in the American Institute of Architect’s list of top 100 buildings.

Bishop's Palace stained glass detail.

In addition to a grand staircase carved out of walnut and mahogany, the home features some remarkable stained glass windows.

Ike tree carving on Broadway.

The salt water surge created by Hurricane Ike in September of 2008 killed thousands of trees. Private donations funded the creation of hundreds of sculptures carved from the remains of the felled trees, which are now among the attractions in the city’s East End Historic District.

CARNIVAL MAGIC at Galveston.

At the Texas Seaport Museum on the Galveston waterfront, we boarded the SEAGULL II for an hour long harbor tour which provided some nice vantages of the newly-arrived CARNIVAL MAGIC.

More MAGIC at Galveston.

Who knew Galveston Harbor was full of dolphins that would tease our cameras with their fleeting breaches. The most amazing result was that every one managed to avert my shutter.

CARNIVAL MAGIC and her homeport flag.

We sped along the waterway with the Stars and Stripes whipping over our fantail.

Ghost face in the stone?

The boat turned into one alcove where an old sea captain’s home was displaced with a non-descript concrete building. According to our guide, the morning after the captain died, his angry likeness appeared on one of the concrete panels and is to this day referred to as the “ghost”.

Schooner versus Megaship at Galveston.

The gigantic, curvilinear CARNIVAL MAGIC looming over the dimunitive, 1877-built ELISSA was a nice contrast in seagoing styles. Fortunately, we would have a chance to visit the historic schooner the following day.

Atrial two step greeting.

After lunch at Gaido’s Seafood Restaurant overlooking the sea wall, we were delivered to the cruise terminal. Soon, we were stepping into the Deck 3 level of the ship’s nine story atrium as dancers welcomed us with a Texas two step.

CARNIVAL MAGIC cabin 8254.

Our Oceanview With Balcony cabin 8254 was fitted with twin beds and a convertible sofa, a writing desk, plenty of storage space (including beds high enough to tuck a suitcase under), night stands, safe, minibar and flat screen television.

CARNIVAL MAGIC cabin 8254 bathroom.

Ample samples.

The bathroom has a shower with an adjustable pulse control, sink, plenty of storage space and a fantastic array of product samples (including toothpaste, lotions, razors and much more), a marketing tool I have only seen and experienced when sailing with Carnival.

CARNIVAL MAGIC shower dispenser.

Environmentally-conscious (and let’s face it, money saving) dispensers in the shower provide shampoo and shower gel, although I’m not quite sure which is which.

CARNIVAL MAGIC cabin 8254 balcony.

With a nice view overlooking the ship’s wrap-around Lanai promenade, the balcony has two chairs, a see-through plexiglass railing and a small table.

Maroon 5 arrive.

At 3:30, we joined the throngs for a walk over to Pier 21 where the Grammy Award-winning band Maroon 5 would be performing a special concert to welcome the CARNIVAL MAGIC to Galveston. Moments after we arrived, the band came marching past us and onto the stage.

Adam Levine on the scene.

Lead singer Adam Levine is a charismatic guy who also happens to be very socially conscious. It was entertaining to watch him croon and gyrate through a growing repertoire of hits that includes “This Love”, “Moves Like Jagger” and “Wake Up Call”.

Sunset surfaces.

We beat the exodus at the end of the show and reboarded as the CARNIVAL MAGIC glinted in her first American sunset.

CARNIVAL MAGIC Spotlight Lounge, facing aft.

Before dinner, press and a slew of Carnival brass convened in the Spotlight Lounge on aft Deck 5 for cocktails and a number of commemorative plaque exchanges.

Plaque presentation with Captain Cutugno (right).

CARNIVAL MAGIC’s Messina-based captain Giovanni Cutugno is more than just a master mariner who began his Carnival career as third deck officer navigator on board the beautiful TSS FESTIVALE (ex TRANSVAAL CASTLE) in 1978. He was even the willing recipient of a Texas-sized black sombrero.

Northern Lights Dining Room, facing forward from Deck 3.

Dinner was in the midships, double deck, 948 seat Northern Lights Dining Room. Its main focal point is a trio of inverted layer cake glass chandeliers.

Northern Lights table setting.

Table settings feature salmon or black chargers, cloth napkins and stainless flatware.

Minestrone with a Northern highlight.

My first course was a tangy Minestrone Milanese with plum tomatoes, beans and pasta bathed in incandescent swirls of “Northern Light”.

Salmon entree in Northern Lights.

My Broiled Norwegian Salmon entrée came with a medley of artichokes, sun-ripened tomatoes and corn. It was absolutely delicious and on par with any Premium market cruise line offering I’ve tasted.

Dancing in the Northern Lights.

Since most attendees were on board for just one night, Carnival pulled out all the stops and unleashed the wait staff for a festive dance atop any open surface.

Lemon tart in the Northern Lights.

Dinner concluded with a splendid Lemon Tart.

Pool deck at night.

The pool area was brightly lit but most of the revelers were down in the disco, partying until dawn. We would have another six nights to enjoy life on board the CARNIVAL MAGIC, so after a short walk around the upper deck areas, retreated to Cabin 8254.

End of First Post. Much More To Come…

If you enjoyed this post and are on Facebook, please click the “like” button at the top of the page. Thank you.

Special Thanks: Leah Cast, Martin Cox, Jennifer De La Cruz, Vance Gulliksen, Tom Nicolai

With visits to four Caribbean islands, Peter Knego wraps up his transatlantic crossing aboard Silversea Cruises’ ultra-deluxe MV SILVER SPIRIT.

Keep up to date with MaritimeMatters’ Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

Silversea Cruises

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2011

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

Antigua arrival.

Early morning arrivals can often provide great photo ops with any number of cruise ships pivoting into their respective berths. After peeking out the curtain at a squall and only one other ship in sight, I opted to return to sleep. And maybe, just maybe, because I had grown so accustomed to being at sea, the thought of seeing land was too a grim reality to face.

Overlooking Antigua.

Having been to Antigua several times in recent years, my goal for the day (after enjoying a nice lunch in the air conditioned comfort of La Terrazza) would be to find a high speed internet connection and get some work posted. Easier said than done but ultimately done.

Spirito by the pool.

Back aboard the SILVER SPIRIT in the late afternoon, we watched the CELEBRITY SUMMIT back into a drizzly, patch of grayness. After dinner, we headed up to the pool deck where the festive Spirito Della Celebrazione party was well in progress. The ship’s energetic company were wrapping up a twirling, al fresco performance under the stars and the Moonlight Disco phase of the party was about to begin. But then, as SILVER SPIRIT slowly departed, those stars disappeared and lightning began to flash in the void behind the funnel.

It's raining -- men and women!

As a torrent gushed down on the pool area, crew and cast alike scurried to rescue the gala desert spreads on either side of the pool. Several defiant revelers kept dancing in the deluge and then a gaggle of the fully dressed challenged the rain gods by plunging into the pool. No more shall be written, since what happens on the SILVER SPIRIT stays on the SILVER SPIRIT.

Thursday, November 3, 2011

Bow to Saintes

Some ten miles south of the volcanic island of Guadeloupe, Les Saintes is a nine island archipelago that was discovered by Columbus on November 4, 1493. A day short of its 518th anniversary, SILVER SPIRIT dropped her anchor off the town of Terre de Haut.

Saintly SPIRIT.

We enjoyed a leisurely morning by the pool, followed by lunch in La Terrazza. At 2:00 PM, we boarded a tender, first to circle the ship, then to take a walk through the town. In Les Saintes, there were no organized excursions although guests could rent scooters and bikes from shoreside vendors for a ride around the island.

Forming a tricolore of sorts with Jose Manuel Moscoso and Philip Hurst. Photo by Rob Di Stefano 2011.

Rob and I were joined by guest lecturer extraordinaire Philip Hurst and Seville-based photographer and painter Jose Manuel Moscoso, two of the many fine people we had forged a friendship with on this most memorable crossing.

Tenders and canons.

When we arrived, Terre de Haut was in siesta mode with its streets emptied and shops and cafes shuttered. We meandered the waterfront in search of photographic subjects and then into the heart of the town, which offered a contrasting panorama of poverty and riches.

Man with the smiling eyes. Photo and copyright Jose Manuel Moscoso 2011.

Jose Manuel took dozens of images that afternoon and then deleted all but one, which was breathtaking. I am honored that he was willing to share it with me and encourage anyone with an interest in artful photography and paintings to visit his websiteand Facebook page.

SPIRIT in the bay.

We finished our visit to Les Saintes under a statue of a crucified Christ in a cemetery overlooking the bay where SILVER SPIRIT beckoned.

Wine and the blues.

At dinner in Stars, Angela and Michelle provided a jazzy, soulful sonic backdrop to our multi-course tapas extravaganza.

Friday, November 4, 2011

Banana plantation.

Our fun-loving, knowledgeable and occasionally cheeky tour guide Natasha assured her charge of groggy SILVER SPIRIT guests that she would “break us” by the end of the day. The full day Best of St. Lucia tour began pierside in Castries, the island’s capital and wound its way along verdant volcanic slopes through banana plantations, rambling estates and crumbling villages.

Anse le Raye street scene.

We made a pit stop in the fishing village of Anse la Raye, an impoverished but picturesque town, where local souvenirs were hawked. Some were even being thrown.

Pitons and Soufriere.

Rising some 2,500 feet above sea level, the solid lava Pitons are the result of the catastrophic eruption and collapse of a volcano some 400,000 years ago. Our van drove past several overlooks until arriving at the perfect spot with a view that included the town of Soufriere.

Shantytown.

We continued through the post-apocalyptic streets of Soufriere and headed along the ridge between the two Pitons to the luxurious Ladera Resort, which is perched some 900 feet above sea level on the shoulder of the smaller, more pointed, Petit Piton.

Lunch at Ladera.

Lunch at Ladera’s open air Dashene Restaurant was absolutely spectacular. The multi course extravaganza began with a chilled camphor towel and iced ginger tea and ended with a piton-shaped parfait. For an hour, we marveled at the view and the delicious meal, which in every aspect lived up to the impeccable standards of Silversea.

Soufriere street.

Before much longer, our van let us at the Soufriere waterfront where a catamaran would whisk us down the dense, jagged west coast of St. Lucia to Castries.

Pitons in wake.

After a short swimming stop at a black sand beach, Natasha had finally “broken” us. As the rum punch flowed and the music began to pulse, our inhibitions were cast to the wind. The catamaran sailed on!

Bag cleanse.

When we returned to our stateroom, our suitcases were laid out with a card that read, “Your bag was cleaned with an eco-friendly cleaning solvent.” Was there no detail left untended on board the SILVER SPIRIT? What would we do without Ari and Ferdi taking care of everything we needed? Packing and the thought of leaving our perfect sanctuary and newfound friends was almost a bit too much to bear.

Vishal and Russel.

We enjoyed one last night “on the town”, Silversea style. A final get-together in the Panorama Lounge, dinner with a large group of friends in the Restaurant, after dinner chatter in the Observation Bar and a quick farewell to Vishal and Russel, who took such great care of us. Even our suitcases seemed dejected as they awaited retrieval from the passage outside our cabin door.

Friday, November 5, 2011

Mushroom rock.

Barbados botanical.

One more lovely breakfast in La Terrazza and then, the moment we all dreaded most, came to pass. Dark green baggage tags were being called, so off we stepped into the stifling, brutal humidity of Barbados. After a morning tour that included a visit to its north shore beach and a botanical garden, we were delivered to the airport. Our Silversea escapades were now golden memories.

End Of Blog

Special thanks: Brad Ball, Martin Cox, Rob Di Stefano, Gina Finocchiaro, Paolo Percivale

Wine and dine in epicurean style for six leisurely Atlantic sea days with Peter Knego on the sixth leg of his latest Sea Trek aboard Silversea Cruises’ ultra-deluxe MV SILVER SPIRIT during the ship’s fifteen night voyage from Lisbon to Barbados.

Keep up to date with MaritimeMatters’ Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

Silversea Cruises

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2011

Thursday, October 27, 2011

At last — In over 200 cruises, my first Atlantic crossing! For this voyager, six days, not to mention the extra five hours gained by heading west, would pass all-too-quickly.

Espresso express.

After a luxuriant sleep-in, we prodded our in-cabin Illy espresso machine until it frothed up a proper morning’s dose of caffeine.

Olio y aceto.

Sun versus shade on La Terrazza terrace.

The 11:15 AM cooking demo, “Gnocchi al Pomodoro e Pecorino and Risotto alla Milanese”, in the Lounge was a perfect prelude to our lunch on the outdoor terrace of La Terrazza. As usual, it began with artisan breads and a salad drenched in a potent blend of extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar and ground salt crystals.  A following wind stayed the enchilada entrée that followed.

After lunch, for some cerebral nourishment in the Lounge, Andrew Johnson gave a lecture entitled “The Grand Tour” about the evolution of travel from the 19th Century to luxury cruising, Silversea style. Throughout the cruise, in tandem with fellow lecturers Philip Hurst and Dr. Roger Lederer, Johnson provided a wide ranging variety of topics from world politics to geography and ecology.

Tea time treats in Terrazza.

At tea in La Terrazza, the theme was Wiener Kaffee, with an assortment Viennese coffee house treats from sugar cookies and strudel to tarts, tortes and finger sandwiches. Resistance was senseless and futile.

MV SILVER SPIRIT Gym, facing starboard.

What with all the olive oil, artisan breads and cookies consumed, I was determined to get in a minimum of ninety minutes of daily elliptical and crunch time at the well-equipped gym on aft Deck 6. In addition to the aforementioned, it offers treadmills, several weight machines and a variety of free weights. Toned trainer Gareth also supervised a number of included classes, from Yoga to “Boot Camp” and “Legs, Bums and Tums”.

Veggie entrée in the Restaurant.

Formal night on SILVER SPIRIT was quite the gala affair with most ladies elegantly coiffed in flowing gowns and gents preening in tuxes and the occasional tail. For me, the highlight of this particular gourmet dinner in the Restaurant was the delicious Baby Vegetable Ragout with confied garlic and shallots, scallion sauce and beet oil.

The evening ended on a high note with a nightcap in the quiet, remote Observation Bar as the SILVER SPIRIT leisurely nosed through a Force Five swell.

Friday, October 28, 2011

Ferdinand of 702.

Ferdinand (or, as he likes to be called, “Ferdi”) hails from Manila and has worked with Silversea for ten years on all of the line’s ships. This kind, poised, dedicated and ebullient room steward trained for six months aboard the MS PHILIPPINES, the former Italian liner AUGUSTUS, which had just arrived at Alang for scrapping when this SILVER SPIRIT voyage began.

Pizza margherita in La Terrazza.

For lunch in La Terrazza, in addition to a mountainous salad, I ordered a fresh pizza margherita.

Trivia quizzed...

We joined a wonderful group of fellow passengers in the Panorama Lounge for the team trivia quiz. Even though we stumbled through most of the 20 questions (Silversea has some of the toughest quizzes afloat), our team members were a lovely lot and would welcome us back on several occasions, much to their peril.

Laundry time on Deck 7.

There are seven free passenger laundries that come in especially handy on longer voyages in this era of tough airline luggage restrictions. Both Rob and I got lucky as there were available machines on Decks 6 and 7 to refresh a week’s worth of withered wardrobes.

Sunset and hot rocks.

Our Man Ari booked us for two nights in Hot Rocks, Silversea’s al fresco casual dining venue on the Deck 10 terrace overlooking the pool. I’m pretty new to this sort of dining experience but gourmand Rob was there to make sure I didn’t burn the goods!

Hot Rocks caesar salad.

It begins with a teaser of chips, guacamole and salsa and is followed by a choice between a crispy Caesar or a New York Salad. Wine (red or white), beer, sparkling water, soft drinks flow freely and would be replenished as twilight faded under a canopy of stars.

Sea bream in Hot Rocks.

In addition to a selection of prime cuts, the “catch” of the day was a sea bream, drenched in freshly-squeezed lemon, of course.

Fish is cooked in Hot Rocks.

Accompanied with a skewer of grilled veggies and a baked potato smothered in chives and sour cream…

Hot Rocks apple tart.

Our balmy night in Hot Rocks ended with a baked apple tart. Hats off to Mersun Nucup, SILVER SPIRIT’s baker with the golden touch.

English John on the grand.

In the Lounge, it was an evening of virtuoso piano playing from guest artist Jon England, who covered everything from Liberace to Lewis (Jerry Lee, that is) with a unique, invigorating flair.

Always a good sign....

So nice to find the second of five “turn the clocks back” signs atop our posh bedding. Westbound is the only way to cross….

Saturday, October 29, 2011

Midships Verandah Suite.

Since a few guests disembarked in the Canaries, I had a chance to photograph a couple of the suite categories that were fully booked when we boarded in Lisbon. The SILVER SPIRIT has 216 Veranda Suites that measure a total of 376 square feet.

Midships Verandah Suite balcony.

Veranda Suites are all the same in layout and size but the 166 Midship Suites are marketed at a slightly higher premium. Balconies measure 65 square feet.

MV SILVER SPIRIT pool area from Observation Deck 12.

Up atop the ship, I finally “discovered” the observation terrace on Deck 12. It is accessed via a remote staircase that leads up from the port side of the Observation Lounge on Deck 11.

Galley Lunch.

We went to the dining room and galley to merely photograph the gala Galley Lunch buffet. Our plans to dine in La Terrazza were soon aborted…

Caldera of eggs and grain in the Galley.

A wonderful array of fresh sea food, salads, pasta, fish, fowl and meats awaited. Once a plate was filled, an attending steward whisked it off to the guest’s table.

Chocolate dragon on Galley Lunch Day.

A spectacular chocolate dragon presided over the dessert display in the dining room.

Staff Engineer Gursel Ebit in the control room.

At 2:00 PM, I had the pleasure of visiting Romanian Staff Engineer Gursel Ebit in the control room. He explained the basics of SILVER SPIRIT’s machinery before leading me into the spotless cacophony of her engine room.

Wartsilla diesels.

The ship is powered by five sets of Wartsila diesels that can produce a maximum speed of 20.3 knots.

SILVER SPIRIT starboard shaft.

In lieu of often troublesome pods, the SILVER SPIRIT is propelled by twin screws.

Balcony blues.

Meanwhile, up on our balcony, another beautiful day at sea was breezing by.

The Bar, facing port/forward.

Prior to dinner, many of the SILVER SPIRIT’s guests congregate in the Bar on midships Deck 5. With 112 seats, the space has an Art Deco flourish and departs from the overall beige and brown color scheme of the other public areas by infusing turquoise and black enamel accents.

Red, red wine in the Restaurant.

At lunch and dinner in all of the ship’s dining venues, there is a red and white wine pairing.  Did I mention that already?

Always available pasta appetizing in the Restaurant.

There is no shortage of genuine, homemade Italian pasta on board the SILVER SPIRIT. It is on the Always Available side of the menu and can be ordered in appetizer or main course portions with gratuitous amounts of parmesan to accompany.

Blueberry sorbet in the Restaurant.

Each night, a new homemade sorbet is also available at dinner, either as a palate cleanser or a full-fledged dessert. Or both.

”Elton Ron” and the SILVER SPIRIT cast.

The SILVER SPIRIT Singers and Dancers performed “Rocketman”, a tribute to Elton John. Cast member Ron manned the keys and once again delivered a blockbuster performance.

Observation Lounge, facing starboard.

The Observation Lounge was quickly becoming our nightly “end up”. Bartenders Vishal and Russel made sure no glass went un replenished, be it  a mere soda with lime.

Sunday, October 30, 2011

Captain Sangiacomo on the bridge.

At 10:00 AM, I had a chance to visit Captain Marco Sangiacomo in the SILVER SPIRIT’s bridge. Born in Santa Margherita de Ligure and trained at the Camogli Nautical School near Genoa, he began his career as a “cadet” in 1988 on the cargo ships of Italian Line. He joined Silversea in 2000 and attained captain’s status in 2004 on board the SILVER WIND.

SILVER SPIRIT Wheelhouse, facing starboard.

The SILVER SPIRIT has an impressive bridge that despite the console and all of its modern equipment, gives a nod or two to traditional Italian ocean liner heritage:  spotless blue linoleum decking…

SILVER SPIRIT wing at sea.

….and open bridge wings! Many captains prefer a bridge with open wings so they can gauge the elements while navigating.

Toda forca.

After my visit, I raced to the opposite end of the ship.

Andrew Johnson at the podium.

Alas, I only caught the tail of guest lecturer Andrew Johnson’s “Blue Riband” presentation in the Lounge but fortunately, as with all of the enrichment lectures, it would be broadcast on the cabin television throughout the day.

Susan Woods shares.

At 11:15 in the Panorama Lounge, we sipped Virgin Marys and listened to Susan Woods’ captivating tales of her “Life At Sea”. With hints of Lynne Redgrave and perhaps a even a little Julie Andrews in her demeanor, Susan’s tag line is a chirpy “toodle-loo”.

Toodle-loo on the pool grill terrace.

Susan retired in 2009 after a long career that included teaching dance aboard the ships of much lamented Sitmar Cruises and a twenty year stint as a cruise director with Holland America. Cooking and housework were not nearly as satisfying as being at sea, so she returned with a flourish to the ships of Silversea.

Balmy balcony.

Although the temperature and humidity had been gradually increasing as the SILVER SPIRIT continued westward, today, the difference was palpable and our balcony was bare.

Silver seas ahead.

I opted for a relatively “low key tea” in the Observation Lounge with some aromatic jasmine green tea and a panorama of endless sea.

SILVER SPIRIT face.

That following wind on the fo’c'sle made photographing the SILVER SPIRIT’s forward superstructure ever so easy in the golden afternoon light.

Monday, October 31, 2011

Window seat in the Restaurant.

Yet another glorious day at sea. Our routine was pretty much set with mornings in the cabin catching up on work and news, editing photos and trying to post portions of this rather epic blog. Today, instead of heading to La Terrazza for lunch, we went to the Restaurant and got a fantastic table for two by a picture window on the port side.

Terrazza tea

In La Terrazza at tea time, another chance to choose between twelve fresh leaf brews in addition to a myriad of bags.

Tea time in La Terrazza.

Little blue timers are provided but we tended to prefer ours “over steeped”.

High caloric view in La Terrazza.

And the sweet temptations were merciless.

Double rainbow astern.

Cloudbursts on either side of us produced a maze of rainbows.  At one point, there was a double.

Halloween in the Restaurant.

Somehow, the joy of being at home for Halloween was not missed for even the slightest moment. It was nice to let Silversea do the pumpkin carving and provide the requisite tricks and treats.

Angela sings the blues.

How we never made it to the ship’s jazz nightclub Stars up to this point completely baffles me. We joined friends for a post dinner listen to the silvery vocals of singer Angela Clark and the bluesy tinkling of pianist Michelle Yap Wei Mien until the clock struck twelve.

Wednesday, November 1, 2011

Blue seas astern.

Was this really our last day at sea? Where on earth did all that time go? More food, tea, sunshine, a work out and a metaphoric Philip Hurst lecture, this one entitled “How to Get a Military Coup”.  Anarchy meets irony.

Suite party in 702!

With everyone lulled into a comfortable existence on board the SILVER SPIRIT, new friendships had been forged. We decided to hold an informal get-together in our suite and let Our Man Ari know that, finally, we might be ordering some canapés for the evening. Soon, our little get-together had become a bona fide event — tended by no less than four butlers and fortified with bubbly, wine, beer, soda…

…and canapes!

Pool net nocturnal.

As the safety net was unfurled over the pool sometime in the wee hours, the utter dread of encroaching land had finally sunk in.  Contrary to Columbus, I was not ready for the New World.

End Of Sixth Post: Much More To Come…

Special thanks: Brad Ball, Martin Cox, Rob Di Stefano, Gina Finocchiaro, Paolo Percivale

Laze away a day in La Gomera, Canary Islands with Peter Knego on the fifth part of his latest Sea Trek aboard Silversea Cruises’ ultra-deluxe MV SILVER SPIRIT on the eve of ship’s leisurely six night crossing to Antigua.

Keep up to date with MaritimeMatters’ Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

Silversea Cruises

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2011

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Tied up in La Gomera.

Our last stop prior to the SILVER SPIRIT’s leisurely six night Atlantic crossing, San Sebastián de la Gomera is the main port and capital of the island of La Gomera in the Canary Islands.

In the steps of Colon.

La Gomera was the final stop for Columbus before his voyages to the New World and tangible links to his legacy are just about everywhere.  After two full days of excursions in Tenerife and Las Palmas, we decided it would be nice to just wander around the town, take some photos and possibly hit the beach.

Igneous aloft: Layers of La Gomera.

The top of the ridge, which is composed of layers of multi-colored lava, is dominated by the Parador Hotel but there is an unobscured vantage at the Mira Vista lookout.

Lined up at LA GOMERA.

Fom the end of the jetty where SILVER SPIRIT was berthed, past the local ARMAS ferry (VOLCAN DE TABURIENTE) and the imposing Fred. Olsen catamaran (“BENCHIJIGUA EXPRESS), we walked into town and then up a series of zig zagging residential streets to bougainvillea-bunted Mira Vista.  Back in the town, we stopped at a small cafe for a very reasonably-priced curried chicken croissant and freshly-squeezed orange juice.

Black sand and SILVER SPIRIT.

From there, it was around the harbor to the black sand beach across from our ship. The water was a bit frigid and the rising tide had started to reclaim the soft sand, so after a brief dip, we began our walk back to the ship.

La Gomera breakwater to Volcan de Teide, Tenerife.

En route, we discovered a second, more attractive beach just beyond the breakwater but its unsheltered waters were a vortex of turquoise and foam. Instead of swimming, we ventured out onto a rocky promontory, waves crashing around us, for a view of Tenerife and Volcan de Tiede.

Sunshine and Pastels: La Gomera.

After lunch aboard SILVER SPIRIT, we returned to a cafe on Paseo Fred. Olsen for a bit of ultra high speed wifi to get photos uploaded prior to the crossing. In the process, we racked up two cappuccinos, a local beer, two sandwiches and two bowls of succulent olives for a whopping 5 Euro total. The Canary Islands have definitely not seen the last of us…

Bubbly and foam.

At 6:00 PM, SILVER SPIRIT cast her lines and sailed into the sun on a west by slightly southwesterly course to Antigua. For the next six days, we would be surrounded by nothing but sea and sky.

Vegi-curean: Spinach parcels with onions and walnuts in sumak dip (Fatayir be Sabaanikh) in the Restaurant.

At dinner in the Restaurant, I was thrilled to find a Moroccan-themed menu with stuffed vine leaves, rice balls, lentil and chick pea soup, lentil salad, shish kebabs and much more.

Petits fours in the Restaurant.

And afterwards, a new assortment of petits-fours to at first resist, then “taste”, before finally devouring the last crumbs.

Panorama Lounge, facing port.

In the handsome, 74 seat Panorama Lounge on aft Deck 9, there was a post-dinner game of “Name That Tune”. Rob and I decided to give it a shot and managed, with more than just a little help from our fellow players, to secure first prize.

We polished off another perfect evening in the quiet Observation Bar with a gathering of friendly Chicagoans, then headed to bed to rest up for six full days of…relaxation.

End Of Fifth Post: Much More To Come…

Special thanks: Brad Ball, Martin Cox, Rob Di Stefano, Gina Finocchiaro, Paolo Percivale