Anyone venturing to London with the slightest interest in classic ships and luxury yachts has a treat in store at the Canary Wharf. The 325 by 36 foot former Onassis yacht CHRISTINA O is now open for daily tours.

CHRISTINA O at London.

For more information, please go to: www.thejackieoexperience.com

Keep up to date with Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2012 unless otherwise noted.

The face of fame and fortune.

Even if she weren’t the playground of the wealthiest and most glamorous people of the 20th Century, the MV CHRISTINA O would still be a fascinating subject, simply for her splendid maritime architecture.

Spiraling down to a mosaic “O".

After decades of neglect and obscurity, the now glistening super yacht was originally a Canadian frigate built for World War Two service and rebuilt by Aristotle Onassis at a German shipyard in 1954 as one of the most opulent and sleek ships of the day.

The Callas Lounge is furnished with rare artifacts celebrating the legendary opera singer who frequently rendezvoused with Onassis aboard the CHRISTINA.

In the 1950s and 1960s, the CHRISTINA was the playground of such luminaries as Winston Churchill, JFK, Onassis’ mistress Maria Callas, Greta Garbo, Grace Kelley and Frank Sinatra. After he married Jackie Kennedy, the former first family vacationed aboard with her children.

Through these portals...

When Onassis died in 1975, the yacht was passed on to her tragic namesake, Christina Onassis, who in turn donated her to the Greek government. Instead of becoming a presidential yacht, CHRISTINA O lay tucked away at Perama until 1999, when the rust-streaked derelict was towed off to a Croatian shipyard, re engined with diesels and restored to her original glory over a period of two years.

Sign.

The vessel accommodates 36 guests and is available for charter at USD $65,000 per day. But for a mere 15 pounds, you can see what all the fuss is about and take a narrated tour of most of the ship’s public areas.

Shoe covers are supplied.

Open daily from 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM, the sleek white vessel will be off on charter for the London Olympics and sailing back into the realm of the inaccessible.

Lapis Lounge, facing aft.

On a gloomy afternoon this past April, Peter Knego went on board and was able to take a number of photos. While photography is a sensitive issue, he worked with the ship’s representative to capture as much of the CHRISTINA as possible.

A Decked! feature will soon follow…

With special thanks: Martin Cox, David JeanJean, Mike Masino

Oceania Cruises 66,084 gross ton, 1,250 passenger MV RIVIERA was christened today at Barcelona in a pierside ceremony that blended local culture, a great deal of company reflection and much fanfare.

MV RIVIERA at Barcelona on the eve of her christening.

Oceania Cruises

Keep up to date with Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2012 unless otherwise noted.

Godmother Cat Cora (right) and her wife Jennifer.

Celebrity chef Cat Cora, whose new Bravo television series, “Around The World In 80 Plates”, was also launched this past week, did the honors as godmother. Joining her to celebrate were her wife and partner of 14 years, Jennifer, along with past Oceania godmothers and the line’s executive team.

The bottle breaks!

At the moment of truth, a 15 liter Nebuchadnezzar of Veuve Clicquot champagne, weighing 114 kilos, was released into the side of the ship.

Confetti!

Sultry flamenco dancers, Mayor Xavier Trias of Barcelona and other dignitaries were on hand to partake in the festivities as 1,300 guests and media looked on. A brilliant sun and a gentle breeze made the ceremony all the more inviting.

RIVIERA Builders plate.

RIVIERA, after a strike-related delay, has just been completed by the Sestri Ponente yard of Fincantieri, the same yard that, as Ansaldo, built dozens of important ocean liners and cruise ships.

In his speech, Oceania and Prestige Cruise Holdings chairman Frank Del Rio stated, “Today, the baton as the world’s premiere ship has passed to RIVIERA.” He added, “When asked, I’ve repeatedly said that it was going to be hard to improve on MARINA’s perfection, but I didn’t say it would be impossible. And we have done just that – improved on perfection.”

RIVIERA Reception foyer.

The beautifully appointed RIVIERA will be fully detailed in a series of reports from Peter Knego, so please stay tuned. In the meantime, the ship will continue on her inaugural cruise to Venice, where guests will overnight before departing. Following the christening cruise, RIVIERA begins a 10-day maiden voyage from Venice to Athens, departing on May 16, 2011. From May 16 through November 29, 2012, she will offer a total of 20 Mediterranean voyages, calling at ports in France, Italy, Greece, Spain, Portugal and Turkey as well as Israel, Croatia, Cyprus, Montenegro, Morocco and Monaco, with maiden calls in Cephalonia (Argostoli), Motril (Granada) and the Canary Islands.

Join Peter Knego for part four of his latest trek aboard Great American Steamboat Company’s grand steamboat AMERICAN QUEEN for a visit to the charming hamlet of Madison, Indiana.

Great American Steamboat Company

Keep up to date with Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2012 unless otherwise noted.

Thursday, May 3, 2012

Bunting and balloons at Madison.

Our last full day on the “Grace Boat” AMERICAN QUEEN found us berthed in the charming hamlet of Madison, Indiana. We grabbed some of that Starbucks coffee in the Front Porch and hopped on the Steamcoach for a ride into its downtown area, designated the largest contiguous National Historic Landmark in the United States.

Madison mansion.

We hopped off at the 1844-built Lanier Mansion, located between Main Street and the Ohio Riverfront.

Madison steeple and fountain.

From there, we walked a few short blocks to the Broadway Fountain, which lies in the shadows of the 1873-built Trinity United Methodist Church, one of the tallest structures in the region. The copper fountain dates from 1886 and has been restored in recent years, with a little help from a very special lady.

Irene Dunne marker.

Irene Dunne, one of the class acts of American cinema and star of films such as “The Awful Truth”, “Penny Serenade”, “I Remember Mama” and “Lady In A Jam”, was born in Madison. Until her death in 1990, she had done much to raise awareness of and support her home town. They have not forgotten her.

Main Street, Madison.

Madison’s Main Street is the quintessential river town main street. If it were a Hollywood set, it would be deemed “too quaint” to be real but it is the real thing. The 1958 Shirley MacLaine, Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin film, “Some Came Running” was shot here. Not much has changed since then.

AMERICAN QUEEN at Madison, Indiana.

The only good thing about our early departure from beautiful Madison was that it did give us one last afternoon to enjoy the Ohio River from the perspective of AMERICAN QUEEN.

Flute shadows on the river.

It’s hard to believe this entire mode of travel almost came to an end.

Travis taps the calliope keys.

Although he is no Rosalinda de Leon (but who is?), Travis Vasconcelos serenaded with one last calliope concerto as the sun began to dip in our wake.

Stars, stripes and steam.

One last workout, more promenading, visiting with friends at the rail, dinner in the J.M. White and the “Victory Canteen” show in the Grand Saloon ensued before the necessity of packing reared its ugly head and reminded us that the “real world” awaited.

Friday, May 4, 2012

Cincinnati dawning.

The sun would soon rise over Cincinnati, a wondrous city when seen from the perspective of the Ohio River.

Roebling Bridge, Cincinnati.

Behind us, the Roebling Bridge, named for its architect and likewise builder of the Brooklyn Bridge, beckoned from a netherworld that was neither night nor day.

AMERICAN QUEEN at Cincinnati.

And as we shoveled ourselves into a cab headed for the Covington, Kentucky Airport across the river, I had to take one last shot of the AMERICAN QUEEN.

Yes, she really, really is back!

End Of Grace Under Steam Sea Treks…

Very special thanks: Martin Cox, Nora Farrell, Mary Ferlin, Mike Hicks, Christopher Kyte, Tim Rubacky,

Join Peter Knego for part three of his latest trek aboard Great American Steamboat Company’s freshly revived, lavish AMERICAN QUEEN for a day on the Ohio River and a visit to historic Louisville, KY .  Tour the paddlewheeler BELLE OF LOUISVILLE and hop aboard for the Great Steamboat Race between AMERICAN QUEEN, BELLE OF LOUISVILLE and the BELLE OF CINCINNATI.

Great American Steamboat Company

Keep up to date with Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2012 unless otherwise noted.

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Gordon C. Greene at the podium.

Another full day on the river began with a presentation entitled “Huclkeberry Greene” by Gordon C. Greene, grandson of the founder of the fabled Greene Line, which operated a fleet of paddlewheel boats on the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers. Greene Line purchased and brought the DELTA QUEEN to Cincinnati from San Francisco in 1949 and young Greene gave us a firsthand account of that and many other tales from his youthful days on the river. Were it not for his grandfather (after whom both he and the famous steamboat were named), there might not have been an AMERICAN QUEEN.

The owl is in the detail.

Grand Saloon chandelier.

Blue Tiffany overlook.

There was more time to sit and soak in the details as the scenic Ohio River drifted by. Two Riverlorian talks, including one about steamboat racing and what would soon be AMERICAN QUEEN’s nemesis, the historic steamer BELLE OF LOUISVILLE, were presented in the Grand Saloon. A magic show, Dixieland music, lingering on a swing on the front porch and chatting with fellow guests would round out the day.

Caesar Salad.

Dinner in the J.M. White was the best so far, beginning with a crispy Caesar Salad.

Chicken Marsala.

The main course, a Sauteed Chicken Breast in Marsala Wine Sauce was absolutely perfect, tender and bursting with flavor.

Blue Grass in the Grand Saloon.

Evening entertainment in the Grand Saloon took a 180 degree turn from the Big Band sounds of Harry James to the Bluegrass tones of the Storefront Congregation, a formidable five piece band from Louisville. Their harmonies were tight (and not too twangy), the lyrics were clever and funny and the musicianship was outstanding.

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

Let them eat Bananas Foster Stuffed French Toast!

It would be a day of “Bells and BELLES” in Louisville, Kentucky, home of the Kentucky Derby and bourbon whiskey.  Mags (my darling Aunt Mary) and I got started a bit earlier than usual with a full breakfast in the J.M. White Dining Room. It would probably be the last thing I would ever eat (not that I wouldn’t enjoy it) but I had to see the Bananas Foster Stuffed French Toast with my own eyes.

Seelbach Hotel.

We had tickets for the 9:50 Steamcoach and were soon off to see Louisville, named for France’s King Louis XVI, who, along with his wife, Marie Antoinette, ended their reigns under the blade of a guillotine. After doing the Steamcoach loop, we hopped off at the gorgeous Seelbach Hilton Hotel, which was built in 1905.

Louisville hotel lobby.

It was hard not to think of the great turn-of-the-(20th) century liners like the FRANCE (iv) when pondering the grand staircase in the lobby of the Seelbach. We also visited the Ratskellar in its basement which has some spectacular Bavarian Rookwood Pottery Panels.

LOUIV XVI versus the Clock Tower.

From there it was a relatively short walk to the City Hall, with its famous clock tower, dating from 1873. Added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1976, it faces a large marble statue of Louis XVI.

Baseball Museum.

Other Steamcoach stops included the Slugger’s Museum and Factory, fronted by a six story bat and dedicated to America’s most popular pastime and the Glass Factory, which has an interesting exhibit or two and a viewing area overlooking the glass blowing ovens.

Kentucky Center.

Our last stop was  the Kentucky Center for the Performing Arts. Fronted by an Alexander Calder sculpture, it offers a free I-Max style screening of the popular “The Kentucky Show”.  Upcoming headliners in the state-of-the-art theater include a number of country music acts, as well as Bills Maher and Cosby.

MISSISSIPPI QUEEN bell.

Back on board the AMERICAN QUEEN, a historic transfer was about to take place. Stowed on forward Observation Deck, the 865-pound brass bell from the since-scrapped-down-to-a-barge riverboat MISSISSIPPI QUEEN was about to be hoisted away.

MISSISSIPPI QUEEN being lowered to a barge.

The bell, originally cast in 1876 for the Holy Cross Monastery in Cincinnati and gifted to the MISSISSIPPI QUEEN in 1976, will live on at the Howard Steamboat Museum, located near the Jeffboat Shipyard in Jefferson, Indiana, which built the “MQ”.

BELLE OF CINCINNATI at Louisville.

I next headed off to explore the riverfront and get some photos of the three stern wheelers gathered for the Great Race later that day. Right behind the AMERICAN QUEEN was the handsome little BELLE OF CINCINNATI, built in 1991 as the EMERALD LADY. The diesel-powered boat has replaced the now-laid up DELTA QUEEN as the principal competitor with hometown legend, the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE, in the annual Great Steamboat Race.

BELLE OF LOUISVILLE

BELLE OF LOUISVILLE at Louisville.

It was great to finally see the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE, the 1914-built steamboat that has reportedly traveled more miles and visited more places than any other steamboat in her class. She was originally named IDYLWILD, then became AVALON in 1947. In 1962, she became BELLE OF LOUISVILLE and was completely restored at Louisville. She began “racing” the DELTA QUEEN in the Great Steamboat Race held in conjunction with the Kentucky Derby. Up until this year, BELLE OF LOUISVILLE had won the race 22 times, versus the DELTA QUEEN’s 20.

Bell of the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE.

The boat was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1972 and became a National Landmark in 1976. Although preparations were going on in anticipation of 650 passengers boarding for the Steamboat Race (at a lofty $140 per head), the BELLE’s amiable CEO, Linda Harris, was kind enough to give me a quick tour.

BELLE OF LOUISVILLE calliope.

Up on the top deck, the steam calliope is a lovingly restored replacement for the original, which was sold at auction before the boat was refurbished in 1962.

BELLE OF LOUISVILLE control panel.

In the engine room, the control panel still has its beautifully polished brass gauges.

BELLE OF LOUISVILLE piston.

Regular guests can view the engines and paddlewheel mechanism in action.

BELLE OF LOUISVILLE Saloon.

In the saloon, which now enjoys the benefit of air conditioning, tables were being set for a lavish buffet.

BELLE OF LOUISVILLE ceiling detail.

Shortly before I disembarked, Linda pointed out a part of the hammered tin ceiling that dates from 1914. It was really a privilege to see this remarkable boat on such a high profile day.

For more, please visit: The BELLE OF LOUISVILLE Official Website.

Contenders in the hours prior to the Great Race.

Meanwhile, alongside the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE, crew members from all three Great Steamboat Race participants were competing in a number of tournaments. The  Great Steamboat Race is more like a contest with the race being just one of many “tests” to achieve an overall score.

Steamboat Race jousting in the shadows of the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE.

Line tossing and a curious inflatable jousting match were among the skills tested.

BELLE OF CINCINNATI wheelhouse.

Just before 6:00 PM, as the race revved up, the kind owners of BELLE OF CINCINNATI provided a spot for me on the boat’s foredeck so I could document the AMERICAN QUEEN “in action”.

Rhino in reverse: AMERICAN QUEEN backs under the George Rogers Clark Memorial Bridge.

The BELLE OF LOUISVILLE was already in position as the AMERICAN QUEEN backed out, funnels collapsed in “rhino” position. The BELLE OF CINCINNATI followed, lining up on the north side of the two steamboats.

AMERICAN QUEEN and BELLE OF LOUISVILLE steaming along.

AMERICAN QUEEN was clearly the most majestic of the trio but the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE was a vintage marvel of huffing steam.

AMERICAN QUEEN flutes on the rise.

AMERICAN QUEEN had to collapse her funnels a second time to clear a trio of bridges and a series of power lines, raising one at a time afterwards, as she rolled upstream. She crossed behind and then overtook us, backlit by the early evening sun.

AMERICAN QUEEN picks up speed.

AMERICAN QUEEN paddle plough.

Leaving us in the mist.

AMERICAN QUEEN races ahead.

At the six mile point, AMERICAN QUEEN pivoted around and sped back downstream, leaving the BELLE OF CINCINNATI, pirate flag waving, in the mist. Meanwhile, the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE was nowhere in sight. We learned later that she turned around several miles back.

AMERICAN QUEEN returns to Louisville.

Back at the starting point, AMERICAN QUEEN maneuvered into her berth. The CINCINNATI followed and I jumped into the long queue to disembark. Somehow, even though the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE didn’t run the entire race and the BELLE OF CINCINNATI fell far behind AMERICAN QUEEN, the AQ came in third. So much for the “race” part of the Great Steamboat Race…

Lynn Roberts and the Harry James Band.

One thing the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE could not possibly top was the evening entertainment on AMERICAN QUEEN as she made her way up the Ohio River. The Harry James Band was so great, it was hard to imagine anything or anyone that could make it better. But guest singer Lynn Roberts had that magic touch. One of the best performances I have seen on any boat or ship, for that matter.

End of Part Three. Much More To Come…

Very special thanks: Greg Brown, Martin Cox, Nora Farrell, Mary Ferlin, Linda Harris, Mike Hicks, Christopher Kyte, Tim Rubacky,

Join Peter Knego for part two of his latest trek aboard Great American Steamboat Company’s freshly-revived, lavish AMERICAN QUEEN on the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers and a visit to Henderson, Kentucky, once home to John Audubon.

Great American Steamboat Company

Keep up to date with Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2012 unless otherwise noted.

Saturday, April 28, 2012

Breakfast on the porch.

Our first day on the Mississippi began with light breakfast on the Front Porch of America. When I was last on AMERICAN QUEEN, a few short weeks before her then operators (Majestic America Line) shut down, it was a rather grim affair with broken down coffee and soft drink machines. Now there was a selection of cereals, juices, teas, fresh fruit and Starbucks coffee in addition to always-available espresso and cappuccino. The aroma of French Roast wafting onto the shelter deck immediately forward was, indeed, a joyous thing. Great American is still working out some kinks in the catering and service but the Front Porch holds great promise.

Under steam.

It begins with a gentle hum, then crescendos into a harmonic howl.   The AMERICAN QUEEN’s elusive (to photograph) but frequent steam whistle was back in action throughout the day, greeting passing craft and saluting well-wishers on shore.

Funnel down.

The on-going process of lowering those filigreed funnels to clear bridges and power lines never ceased to amaze.

AMERICAN belle.

It was so nice to stand under that massive brass bell on forward Observation Deck, once again.

Dionysus in the proscenium.

Crystal and hammered tin.

Totally Random Victorian Carpet Shot #1.

Cherub on high.

Although this was my third cruise aboard AMERICAN QUEEN, I was still discovering and reveling in her details.

Grand Saloon, facing forward.

Inspired by Ford’s Theater (yes, that one) in Washington D.C., the Grand Saloon remains one of my favorite rooms afloat. It somehow manages to feel both soaring and intimate. And the details, ersatz and kitsch as they may be, make a wonderful backdrop for its myriad activities and shows.

Travis versus the snapdragons.

Today, the Grand Saloon was the setting for a shore excursion presentation and two Riverlorian talks, hosted by Toots Malloy and Travis Vasconcelos, AMERICAN QUEEN’s encyclopedic and entertaining alumni.  Topics included “Reading the River” and “From Flatboat to Steamboat and their influence on Southern Development”.

Killer's gaze.

In the early afternoon, we were led on a top-to-bottom tour hosted by Great American CEO Jeff Krida and President Christopher Kyte. Both candidly discussed the challenges in bringing the AMERICAN QUEEN back into service and acknowledged that some work still had to be done. In the process, I learned the story of “Killer”, a wild boar that was scooped up by the MISSISSIPPI QUEEN’s paddlewheel and then cooked by the boat’s crew. His head is part the taxidermic lore in the Gentlemen’s Card Room on Cabin Deck.

GASC CEO Jeff Krida in the AMERICAN QUEEN's engine room.

Our tour ended in the Engine Room where guests can visit anytime to see the control station and the giant paddle mechanism in motion.

Paddle pool.

Back up on top of the boat, the freshly renovated wading pool had just opened for use.

Gym, facing starboard.

I was overdue for a romp on the elliptical machine in the adjacent gym. The broken down Majestic equipment has been replaced with two new treadmills, a new elliptical and a pulley-type weight machine that with some practice, worked very nicely.  On the treadmills and elliptical, however, the view would be much better if they faced the window.  Padded mats, a small free weight or two, sanitizers and maybe even a flatscreen TV would complete the picture.

River Grill, facing starboard.

Rolling in the deep.

On aft Promenade Deck, overlooking that hypnotic paddlewheel, Great American has installed a casual eatery called the River Grill. In the daytime, it is the go-to place for hot dogs and hamburgers (chicken and veggie options will soon be available) and at night, it becomes a reservations-required (but no extra charge) al fresco dining venue. We gave it a try that night.

Mark Twain in the Grand Saloon.

After the prior evening’s blockbuster Harry James performance, expectations were high and mighty in the Grand Saloon. Lewis Hankins more than delivered with his mesmerizing, uncanny portrayal of Mark Twain, whose bourbon-and-tobacco-infused musings are as hard-hitting and topical today as they ever were.

Jackie and Bob in the Engine Room Bar.

And in the lively “end up” spot, the Engine Room Bar, Jackie was accompanied by Bob on the banjo.

Dan-cing with my aunt.

Along with that paddlewheel, my unflappable Aunt Mary churned well into the wee hours. Shortly after midnight, the AMERICAN QUEEN transitioned from the Mississippi to the Ohio River.

Sunday, April 29, 2012

Regina Charbonneau on stage.

Great American’s Executive Chef Regina Charboneau is a warm, worldly lady with a Southern flair. The award-winning cook and author was the first person hired by GASC and in addition to overseeing the AMERICAN QUEEN’s menus, she hosts tours to her beautifully restored Victorian home when the boat visits Natchez, Mississippi. Despite the lack of visual accompaniment, she gave a wonderful presentation in the Grand Saloon entitled, “12 Tips for Effortless Entertaining.”

Jazz brunch with the Steamboat Syncopators.

On our second full riverboating day, there was a Jazz Brunch in the J.M. White Dining Room and adjoining Main Deck Lounge. The AMERICAN QUEEN’s “house band”, the Steamboat Syncopators, are skilled musicians and held their own in the company of the visiting Harry James players.

Horseradish and suckling pig.

I tend to be a bit more Mediterranean/California in my culinary leanings but there were some impressive Southern specialties on the Jazz Brunch buffet counter, including Regina’s Butter Biscuits, Assorted Melon Balls with Mint and Peach Syrup, Molasses-glazed Suckling Pig and much, much more…

Tea time.

Tea cakes.

And if Jazz Brunch did not complete the task, one could come back and “top off the tank” at Afternoon Tea, which featured homemade cheesecake cupcakes.

Grand staircase at night.

The night lived on with dinner and wine in the J.M. White, another rousing show from the Harry James Orchestra, drinks in the Engine Room Bar and a walk out on deck.

Monday, April 30, 2012

AQ on ramp.

At 10:00 AM, AMERICAN QUEEN berthed at Henderson, Kentucky. Formerly known as Red Banks, this town of 28,000 was at one time a pirate-infested den of murderers and thieves and later a major exporter of tobacco. It is now best remembered as the early 1800′s home of renowned naturalist John James Audubon.

AMERICAN QUEEN and the Kentucky blue grass.

From the grassy knoll of the levy, AMERICAN QUEEN was a marvel in her restored black and red-trimmed white livery.

On and Off the Waterfront at Henderson.

Great American Steamboat’s ingenious, included-in-the-fare “Hop On, Hop Off” Steamcoaches were a perfect way to see the town. Several buses follow the AMERICAN QUEEN on her journeys, rendezvousing with the boat to shuttle guests around each port, stopping at five or six key spots were they can disembark, explore on their own, and re-board to continue their adventure throughout the day.

Downtown Henderson.

My aunt and I hopped off on the second stop in downtown Henderson to explore its quaint Main Street.

Steamcoach stop number five.

We then hopped on the next Steamcoach to the John James Audubon State Park.

Audubon Museum at Henderson, KY.

At the museum, free admission was provided for AMERICAN QUEEN guests.

Audubon Tom.

It was fascinating to learn of the triumph and tragedy that accompanied Audubon on his roller coaster ride from rags to riches and eventual fame to misfortune. Guide Tom Jake was a wealth of information on the man’s art and personal travails.

Bellum bow at Henderson.

We made it back to the AMERICAN QUEEN well before her 4:00 PM departure time.

Rain on deck, post Henderson.

The mugginess that portended rain finally let loose but not until AMERICAN QUEEN was on her way up river. On either side of the Ohio, lightning flashed in the sky.

Night beam on the Ohio.

Dinner and more of that dulcet Harry James sound filled the night.  Later on, AMERICAN QUEEN tied up on the Kentucky riverbank, searchlights illuminating the shrubbery.

End of Part Two. Much More to Come…

Very special thanks: Greg Brown, Martin Cox, Nora Farrell, Mary Ferlin, Mike Hicks, Christopher Kyte, Tim Rubacky,

The largest, most lavish steamboat ever built, the AMERICAN QUEEN, returns to service under the newly-formed Great American Steamboat Company banner. Join Peter Knego for a day in the vessel’s new homeport of Memphis, a gala re-christening by godmother Priscilla Presley and a night of Mississippi River steamboatin’.

Great American Steamboat Company

Keep up to date with Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2012 unless otherwise noted.

Thursday, April 26, 2012

Madison marquee.

The afternoon prior to the grand and glorious AMERICAN QUEEN steamboat’s christening under the Great American Steamboat Company banner, I arrived at the Madison Hotel in downtown Memphis. Almost immediately after dropping off my luggage, I raced over to the Peabody Hotel to witness the 5:00 PM “March of the Ducks”. I had absolutely no idea what that entailed but it is a Memphian “must”.

Peabody Lobby.

A steamy walk brought me to the opulent Peabody just as several coaches pulled up with camera-clad tourists. As I would soon learn, the concept of the march germinated in 1933 when the hotel’s general manager had a bit too much to drink and snuck in some live mallard decoys as a gag. The ducks spent the night in the fountain, much to everyone’s delight and in 1940, a circus trainer offered to bring ducks to the fountain twice a day, in a tradition that has continued ever since.

Duck paddle.

Unfazed by the fuss around them, some four or five ducks were basking in the palatial environs and camera flashes. Beats an obscure lake and gunfire.

Duck walk.

It was all elbows and shoulders trying to get a quick snap of the cute little quackers as they were paraded along the red carpet.

Ducking into the elevator.

Once they were corralled for their ascent back to the roof, I was off to the Mississippi waterfront.

First glimpse of a QUEEN.

After making local headlines and getting national TV news coverage on her maiden return to Memphis, the AMERICAN QUEEN was attracting hordes of spectators along the highway overlooking Beale Street Landing.

Mayor A.C. Wharton and AQ.

That evening, there was a small gathering for media on the roof of the Madison Hotel. Memphis mayor A.C. Wharton, Jr., who enthusiastically backed the campaign to homeport the vessel in Memphis, was on hand for the mingle.

AMERICAN aerial.

Ten floors beneath us and a mile or so away, straining against her mooring lines, the freshly restored grande dame of the river huffed and puffed her way into the Tennessee night.

Friday, April 27, 2012

Graceland ticket.

With Priscilla Presley as the godmother, there was no better prelude to the AMERICAN QUEEN’s christening than a morning visit to Graceland, Elvis’ former home and Memphis’ biggest tourist attraction.

Graffiti land.

All visitors are shuttled past the gate engraved with thousands of inscriptions from ardent fans. I had expected Graceland to be much bigger but it is actually rather modest compared to some of the overtly garish Beverly Hills and Bel Air mansions in California.

Stained glass "P".

Graceland portico.

The colonial style house was actually built on a 13.8 acre site in 1939 by a Memphis newspaperman and named for his daughter Grace. In 1957, the property was bought by Elvis Presley’s family and significantly remodeled to suit the King of Rock’s “larger than” lifestyle.

Graceland living room.

Perhaps I’ve been desensitized by over-the-top modern cruise ship interiors but Graceland seemed rather tame with its fusion of MidCentury, Colonial and Las Vegas modes. One thing was for certain — the King obviously loved blue and white.

Elvis' TV room.

The TV room in the basement must have seemed pretty high tech in its day with three TV consoles, yellow/green shag carpet, Elvis’ signature thunderbolt insignia, black settees and yellow throw pillows.

Bullet slide.

Presley gave up shooting guns in his private firing range when a ricocheted bullet pierced his daughter Lisa-Marie’s slide. Luckily, she was at school when it happened.

Outfits and discs.

Even for non-Elvis fans, Graceland is nostalgic and fascinating. One could hardly not be impressed with the collection of gold and platinum records and some of his more flamboyant outfits.

Graveland.

To avert grave robbers, Elvis’ body was moved from a local cemetery to the site where his parents are also interred. Visitors are allowed free access each day to place flowers on his grave.

AQ at Beale Street.

We transitioned from the realm of the King of Rock to that of the Queen of the River. When we arrived at still unfinished Beale Street Landing, our bags were piled onto a golf cart and we held on tight for a ride down its spiral ramp to the red carpeted landing.

MEMPHIS QUEEN to AMERICAN QUEEN.

The local excursion boat MEMPHIS QUEEN came in for a close pass off the AMERICAN QUEEN’s stern.

AMERICAN QUEEN from the landing.

I did my best to get photos of the accommodation and public areas but cleaning was still in progress and preparations were being made for the christening ceremony. I last saw AMERICAN QUEEN at St. Paul shortly before her last operators, Majestic America Line, declared bankruptcy. After over three years of layup in the dismal conditions of Beaumont, Texas, it was nothing short of a miracle to see her back and running again.

Christopher Kyte and Priscilla Presley.

At 3:00 PM, guests gathered on the landing to observe the naming ceremony. There was a momentary hush when godmother Priscilla Presley appeared on the balcony with Great American Steamboat Company’s top brass.

Godmother's address.

There were numerous speeches from representatives of the Riverfront Development Corporation, the AMERICAN QUEEN’s Cruise Director (Steve Spracklen), the US Coast Guard, Mayor Wharton, the office of Congressman Steve Cohen and Great American’s top executives (Jeff Krida, John Waggoner and Christopher Kyte). The U.S. Navy Color Guard from Millington, TN performed the National Anthem and Judy Whitney Davis belted out “Old Man River” before the boat was blessed by Reverend Richard W. Carr. And, then, a rousing “America The Beautiful” before the Godmother gave her speech, welcoming AMERICAN QUEEN to her hometown.

Auntie bellum.

Meanwhile, from up on the front porch, my adorable Aunt Mary waved. We all shifted toward the bow of the ship where the AMERICAN QUEEN was officially christened and her bottle-slinging godmother got a little drenched. The era of the “Grace Boat” had just begun…

Priscilla being pressl-ly.

There was a press briefing in the Grand Saloon afterwards where Mrs. Presley and Great American’s top execs. fielded questions.

AMERICAN QUEEN Cabin 422, facing starboard.

Afterwards, our cabin was ready for its occupants. We were in 422 (aka the Allegheny River Suite) on port Observation Deck (4). A Category B Deluxe Outside, it featured French doors that opened onto the promenade, two twin beds and a private bathroom with tub and shower. In addition to the outside access, there was also a door to the main interior passage on Observation Deck.

AMERICAN QUEEN Cabin 422 bathroom.

The cabin had a tub/shower combination, a porcelain sink, tiled flooring and a rack for toiletries.

Great American toiletries.

Great American provides large bottles of shower gel, shampoo, conditioner and moisturizer.

AMERICAN QUEEN, J.M. White Dining Room, facing aft from starboard.

At 5:15, just before the “Grace Boat” cast her lines, we descended to the spectacular J.M. White Dining Room. Based on the double deck saloon on board the fabled steamer of the same name, the J.M. White has picture windows with a view of the river, soaring chandeliers, tapestries and stained glass windows.

AMERICAN QUEEN table setting.

Great American has introduced new table settings with gold table cloths, linen napkins and fine stemware.

Memphis wake.

When we emerged from our first meal, Memphis was well in our wake.

Fred Radke’s Harry James Orchestra.

That evening, we attended Fred Radke’s Harry James Orchestra in the Grand Saloon. Radke, formerly James’ first trumpeter, led a full fourteen piece band through an astoundingly good set of Big Band standards. They set a very high bar for the rest of the week.

AQ, Engine Room Bar, facing starboard.

And, later, despite being tired from all the traveling, we were off to the Engine Room Bar. Accompanied by the chugging of the paddlewheel, singer Jackie Bankston was at her bawdy best with a range of tunes from the 50s through today. It was great to see this AMERICAN QUEEN alumnus back in her element. Can’t imagine the place without her.

Red drum at night.

Outside, that magically-lit wheel looked as beautiful as ever. Fresh from a complete rebuilding, it would churn us along for the next week on a sentimental and uncommon journey up the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers.

Very special thanks: Greg Brown, Martin Cox, Nora Farrell, Mary Ferlin, Mike Hicks, Christopher Kyte, Tim Rubacky,

AMERICAN QUEEN at Beale Street Landing on her maiden return to Memphis. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2012.

The Memphis, Tennessee waterfront is abuzz with spectators today as Great American Steamboat Company’s AMERICAN QUEEN made her debut in what is officially her new homeport. Despite construction work at Beale Street Landing still underway to accommodate the largest and most lavish steamboat ever built, locals enthusiastically welcomed the 436  passenger vessel following her multi-million dollar restoration after the collapse of former owners, Majestic America Line in 1998.

“Today is a dream come true as we revive the fabled steamboat experience, introducing river communities to thousands of travelers, especially our hometown of Memphis,” shared Great American Steamboat Company President Jeff Krida. “The smiling faces greeting us here in the ‘Capital of Southern hospitality’ is humbling and it is no surprise most of our crew calls Memphis home.”

As the AMERICAN QUEEN approached downtown Memphis, she was met by the city’s residents and family members of the crew. The recently formed Great American Steamboat Company has hired 300+ employees from the area, including the steamboat crew, and an economic impact of $89 million is anticipated for the region.

On Friday, April 27, Priscilla Presley will serve as godmother of the AMERICAN QUEEN in an afternoon christening ceremony at Beale Street Landing, then the vessel will depart on her inaugural voyage up the Mississippi River to the Ohio River with stops in Henderson, Ky., Louisville, Ky., and Madison, Ind., before arriving in  Cincinnati, Ohio. On May 2 in Louisville, she will take part in the wonderful tradition of the Kentucky Derby Festival’s Great Steamboat Race with the Belle of Louisville and Belle of Cincinnati.

MaritimeMatters will be well represented on the inaugural cruise with Peter Knego and Shawn Dake.  Stay tuned for their upcoming reports.

Peter Knego wraps up his Maritime Heritage Cruise on board Cruise and Maritime Voyages’ MARCO POLO with a visit to Liverpool — once the bustling gateway for the U.K.’s most illustrious shipping lines — and a day at sea.

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Keep up to date with Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2012 unless otherwise noted.

Sunday, April 15, 2012

Liverpuddlian hello.

Liverpool greeted us with yet more gorgeous sunshine and a deceptively chilly wind. We had no set plans other than to spend the day with Rod Anderton, a dear friend and the former second engineer of Elder Dempster Line’s RMMV AUREOL.

Ferry at the fantail.

As we disembarked onto the landing stage that once hosted ships like the EMPRESS OF CANADA, REINA DEL MAR, AUREOL, ACCRA, APAPA, IVERNIA, SAXONIA, CAMITO, MEDIA, PARTHIA CARNITHIA, SYLVANIA, EMPRESS OF BRITAIN, ANDES and scores of others, the immortal ROYAL DAFFODIL, Gerry and the Pacemakers’ “Ferry Cross The Mersey”, sailed past.

Engineer supreme, Rod Anderton, at the Liverpool Engineer's Monument.

Rod led us on a walk along the Merseyside waterfront. Much like Belfast, Liverpool is enjoying a renaissance of sorts with its historic buildings and monuments being cleaned up and restored. We paused at the obelisk memorial to the engineers lost on the TITANIC. It would be getting a new dedication that very day at noon.

Liver Bird.

It was actually hard to believe we were walking in the shadows of those picturesque buildings I had seen in so many paintings and photos. And, way up high, perched on their mini-cuppola resting places, the iconic, vertigris-encrusted Liver Birds looked frozen in flight.

Cammell Laird across the Mersey.

Across the way, there was a clear view of Cammell Laird, the great Birkenhead shipyard that built RMS MAURETANIA of 1939 and the RMS WINDSOR CASTLE of 1960. I imagined being there, say in 1959, with the massive lavender hull of the WINDSOR CASTLE poised to slide into the river.

Bananas and buildings.

On the Strand, we encountered a series of mini “Superlambbananas” sculptures commissioned in honor of a much larger one in the City Center by Manhattan-based Japanese artist Taro Chiezo.

Merry time, Merseyside.

And while it is reportedly not quite what it once was as far as ocean liner treasures are concerned, the Merseyside Maritime Museum was a must-see. Even though the greater part of its once vast collection of builder’s models are now stowed away at an anonymous warehouse, we still had plenty to ogle.

TITANIC model.

On the 100th anniversary of the TITANIC’s sinking day, the museum was filled with spectators wanting to learn more about the ship and ensuing tragedy. Huge models of TITANIC and BERENGARIA got the lion’s share of adoration.

Blurry AUREOL aficionados. Photo by Mike Masino 2012.

We found our own nirvana in the realm of something far more modest — a lovely painting of RMMV AUREOL on the Mersey.  The 1951 built AUREOL was a gem of a ship that sailed between Liverpool (and later Southampton) and Lagos for Elder Dempster Lines until 1974.  Rod’s floating home and workplace for many years, parts of the graceful ship now live on in our California residence, wrestled from the Indian scrappers in 2001.

Exhibits dedicated to the three major passenger ship tragedies of the early 20th Century, TITANIC, LUSITANIA and the “Forgotten Empress”, the EMPRESS OF IRELAND were very well rendered. Many of the TITANIC displays in the “Titanic and Liverpool: The Untold Story” yielded more information and allure than some of the more sophisticated ones we had seen at Belfast the night prior. The exhibit will continue through April 21, 2013 and admission is free.

Liverpool Pump House.

MARCO POLO was leaving at 2:30 PM, so we had to maintain a somewhat relentless pace in order to see as much as we could. We walked past the Pumphouse to the Royal Albert Dock and along the Strand.

Liver Buildings and Duck.

The Liver Building was now catching the late morning in a favorable light.

White Star offices.

The former 1896-built White Star Line offices are now protected but the challenge is that no prospective tenant has stepped forward to pay for cost-prohibitive renovations.

Cunard offices.

A few hundred yards away, the former Cunard Line head offices are still in use.

City Hall and much more in St. George's Quarter.

We walked past the West India Building, former Elder Dempster Headquarters, which was unfortunately closed, to the historic and beautifully-preserved St. George’s Quarter.

Mast and Spire.

On our way back to the MARCO POLO, we passed the Church of Our Lady and St. Nicholas, the prow-like Atlantic Tower and the Liverpool Mast.

From bow to landing stage.

Rod joined us for a quick tea on board, then disembarked to wave us off from the landing. An all-too-short visit that barely scratched the surface.

Liverpool on the fantail.

It was bitterly nippy but ever-so-scenic as we pivoted around and made an easterly course for the Irish Sea.

Facets of PUSHKIN.

Nigh seas on the MARCO POLO.

A few more studies of the MARCO POLO’s liner-like architecture, then it was inside for some more tea…

Grand tea tongs.

As one would expect, MARCO POLO has a nice afternoon tea in Marco’s Restaurant. Tea and coffee as well as a selection of cakes, scones, sandwiches and some absolutely delicious cookies are all self-service.

Rainbone in teeth!

Cambered cheeks.

Don't try this at home...

Since the conditions were perfect and we had a bit of a following wind, I appealed to the authorities for permission to get my coveted “face” and “bone in teeth” shots from the fo’c'sle.

The ships of the day were “TITANIC And Her Sisters” and Jonathan Quayle provided a fascinating talk about the great interiors of the OLYMPIC class ships and where some bits still exist.

The rest of the afternoon and evening? Catching up with with a cappuccino, putting notes and images on the laptop, working out, enjoying dinner and trying, for a change, to let the cameras rest.

Monday, April 16, 2012

Q and A in the Marco Polo Lounge. Photo by Mike Masino 2012.

On a cherished sea day after some intense port and TITANIC immersion. Jonathan regaled us with his “Collecting Ocean Liner Memorabilia” presentation in the Marco Polo Lounge. Later, I joined him and the two Davids from White Star Memories for a nice Q&A, hosted by our excellent cruise director Gareth.

Control room.

We managed to tag along with the quiz winner, Rich Turnwald, for a tour of the MARCO POLO’s fantastically spotless engine room. It pays to know savvy, well-connected people.

Sulzer Diesels, facing forward.

Chief Engineer George showed us just about everything, from the generators to shaft alley. Those Sulzer diesels have never been in better care, which bodes very well for MARCO POLO’s future.

Bedecked, British style.

Out on Magellan Deck, I missed the Great British Deck Party but its aftermath fluttered on.

"From Russia With Love".

Later, in the Marco Polo Lounge, the largely Russian cast delivered its finest show of the week with “From Russia With Love”, which featured Russian folkloric songs and dance.

Monday, April 17, 2012

Omelete over easy.

Although we didn’t arrive at Tilbury Landing until 9:30, we had to be out of the cabins at a rather brutal 7:30 AM. Of course, it was much worse for the cabin attendants who had to turn the entire ship around in a mere couple hours before the next guests embarked.

In a way, I’m kind of happy the weather at Tilbury was so dreary — it made leaving the MARCO POLO that morning a little easier.

For those who bemoan not having sailed in a classic, affordable ship, MARCO POLO is waiting…

End of MARCO POLO Cruises In The Wake Of Triumph And Tragedy Blog.

Very special thanks: Richard Bastow, Martin Cox, Maurizio Eliseo, Mike Masino

Peter Knego continues his Maritime Heritage Cruise on board Cruise and Maritime Voyages’ MARCO POLO with a day in Belfast, where the TITANIC was built. A full day visiting the legendary Harland and Wolff Shipyard and the newly-opened Titanic Belfast, the world’s largest TITANIC Exhibit, ensues — exactly 100 years after the eve of disaster.

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All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2012 unless otherwise noted.

Saturday, April 14, 2012

POLO-fection at Belfast.

MARCO POLO was backing into her berth at Belfast as we peeked through our curtains.  Soon, we were off to capture our perfectly-lit ship from the Titanic Quarter on Queen’s Island, which, as the crow flies, was only a few hundred yards away.  But, as the cab drives, it was some five or six miles…

"White Starfish" of Belfast.

Speaking of crows, our rush to the edge of the jetty across from the ship had apparently disturbed a gaggle of ravens who were just about to pick apart an unfortunate starfish. The ill-starred creature was still intact but my attempt to save it may have made things worse. I underestimated the distance to the water and a well-intended rescue toss back into the brine ended in a thud as it hit the moss covered rocks of the jetty…

MARCO POLO versus TITANIC stem.

The weather gods were certainly in our favor as Belfast bathed in a glorious northern light under puffs of clotted cream-like clouds. Beyond the TITANIC-themed open air exhibits, which included a replica of the White Star liner’s knife-like prow, the MARCO POLO was an elegantly sheered bar of blue eye-candy.

Tow-TANIC.

On the 100th eve of TITANIC’s sinking, that four funneled liner was everywhere in effigy.

HMS CAROLINE at Belfast.

We walked around the Titanic Quarter, an area that just a few years ago was abandoned and crumbling but is now in the process of a major revival. Of particular interest was the 420-foot, 1914-built light cruiser HMS CAROLINE. The recently decommissioned ship, which served in both World Wars, may ultimately be preserved alongside the NOMADIC in Belfast or taken to Portsmouth to be restored to her original appearance (sans the deck house on her stern). As with all such matters, funding is the hurdle.

SS NOMADIC basking at Belfast.

Speaking of NOMADIC, the last surviving White Star Line ship (built alongside TITANIC at Belfast in 1912 to ferry passengers to and from the TITANIC and her fleetmates during their calls at Cherbouorg) gleams from stem to stern.  Now in the small drydock adjacent to the Titanic Belfast exhibit, she was saved at the eleventh hour after being towed from Paris where she last served as a floating restaurant and nightclub on the Seine.

NOMADIC funnel.

I did my best to talk our way on board but NOMADIC is still very much off-limits as work on her interior continues. Apparently, some key original bits are being removed, much to the distress of preservationists, but at least she has a home and a seemingly healthy future.

Waldorf salad bar.

We returned to the MARCO POLO for lunch before joining a very special “Footsteps of the Titanic” shore excursion at 2:00 PM. This would be the perfect opportunity to try the full service lunch in the handsome Waldorf Restaurant. Not unlike Fred. Olsen and Voyages of Discovery (two of my other favorite British Cruise Lines), there is a buffet salad bar in addition to the menu offerings. For me, it was a perfect chance to create salads that are much bigger than what most normal people require.

Bruschetta.

We enjoyed a very fresh halibut entrée but I was especially impressed with the bruschetta starter.

Harland and Wolff entrance -- note the etched "HW".

Just was we laid our busy forks to rest, the first call for the “Footsteps Of The Titanic” excursion was made. We filed off the ship and into a coach that brought us back to the Titanic Quarter.

Harland and Wolff entry foyer.

The tour began with a walk through the now derelict but utterly fascinating Harland and Wolff shipyard offices. This is place that for most resounds with TITANIC lore but for me, it was so much more. Harland and Wolff was the birthplace of a long procession of noble liners, from most of the Union-Castle Line fleet and the latter day White Star motorships BRITANNIC and GEORGIC to Royal Mail Lines’ ANDES, P&O’s IBERIA and the revolutionary “engines aft” Shaw Savill and P&O beauties SOUTHERN CROSS and CANBERRA. It was in these hallowed halls that all were conceived but of course, were it not for TITANIC, all of this history would probably have been razed.

Harland and Wolff Drawing Room.

If these walls could talk...

We stopped in the glass dome-topped Drawing Room where the massive ships’ blueprints were laid out.

Meeting room of destiny.

And the meeting room where White Star Line chairman Bruce Ismay decreed that the OLYMPIC Class ships (including TITANIC) not carry so many life boats as doing so would cause “alarm” to passengers.

Thomas Andrews' office.

We also filed through the office of Thomas Andrews, the celebrated designer who quickly ascertained the TITANIC’s fate after she struck the berg and ultimately went down with the ship. The irony is that renewed interest in the subject means this crumbling but still very authentic building may soon be transformed into a luxury hotel — a pyrrhic preservationists’ victory.

Titanic Belfast.

We were led outside past the fantastic “art-chitecture” of the new Titanic Belfast. Our guide explained that the Gehry-esque building, when seen from above, forms a three point star and that its prow-like buttresses actually represent the OLYMPIC Class trio of ships: OLYMPIC, TITANIC and BRITANNIC. How nice that the designers acknowledged the other two magnificent ships that are so often marginalized by the TITANIC.

Titanic Belfast sculpture.

Near the entry, chin set to the sky, there is an impressive bronze sculpture.

Slipway Car Park. Another Joni Mitchell song?

Just beyond Titanic Belfast, the mighty slipway where OLYMPIC and TITANIC were launched is now a car park with markers that show where the two huge hulls once towered, side-by-side, on the stocks.

The Pump-House.

After TITANIC and all the other great Harland and Wolff ships were launched, they were fitted out in the shipyard, then moved to a drydock where their hulls could be cleaned, painted, and inspected. For a time the largest drydock in the world, the Thompson Graving Dock was built in 1903 and then expanded to accommodate the OLYMPIC class liners. It remained in use until 2002. The Pump-House was used to drain the dock once the gates were closed behind the visiting ship.

Capstan and graving dock.

Tours will soon be able to descend to the floor of the drydock but for now we would have to be content with the view from above. The often-photographed yellow capstan was used to maneuver and secure the entering ship.

Inner workings of the Pump-House.

Inside the Pump-House, which dates from 1885, we had time to watch a film about Harland and Wolff, which has since gone from shipbuilding to ship repair and manufacturing giant wind and tide turbines.

TITANIC Belfast tickets on the 100th eve...

We had the rest of the afternoon and early eve to explore the quarter and possibly tour downtown. Of course, we were assured Titanic Belfast was sold out but we stopped by the ticket office to see if we might be added to a waiting list, just in case. Amazingly, there were slots for 7:00 PM available, so we bought tickets and then decided to see as much of Belfast as we could before returning to the exhibit. A very nice couple from the ship had offered to share a cab they reserved at 9:00 PM, just in time to get us back to the MARCO POLO before she sailed for Liverpool.

TITANIC sculpture above the quay.

On the boardwalk leading to the pedestrian bridge that crosses from Queen’s Island into downtown Belfast, there are a number of interesting sights. A giant statue not far from the NOMADIC looks like a partially-painted  TITANIC as one would find in a plastic model kit.

From ALCANTARA to WARWICKSHIRE, steps in history...

I particularly liked the mosaic sidewalk memorials to all the great H&W ships of the past. Big thank you to fellow voyager Rich Turnwald for telling us to look out for them.

Albert Memorial, Belfast.

We managed to get only as far as the magnificent 113 foot tall, Albert Memorial Clock, which was built in 1869. Once a beacon for prostitutes, it is now the gateway to the pedestrian bridge leading to Queen’s Island.

TITANIC Experience and Mike Masino.

We returned to the Titanic Experience at precisely 7:00 PM to begin our tour.

Titanic Belfast foyer.

In the foyer, the lobby walls are like a giant ship’s plating.

Interactive cabin exhibit at the Belfast Titanic Experience.

The exhibit begins with a look at “Boomtown” Belfast during its industrial heyday in Gallery 1, then leads into a number of interactive exhibits with TITANIC design elements.

Rivet ride.

In Gallery 2, a very Disney-esque, multi-level ride takes visitors to the gantry where TITANIC was built to witness all of the sights, sounds and even smells.

Launch simulator.

Gallery 3 shows a filmed launch of what appears to be an intermediate Union Castle Liner of the 1920s.

Holographic suite.

Gallery 4, “The Fit Out”, shows what much of the TITANIC’s first class areas were like. It is followed by Galleries 5 and 6, which detail portions of the maiden voyage and sinking.

Lifeboat on display.

Gallery 7, “The Aftermath” recounts the news stories and tells what became of many of the survivors.

Gallery 9.

Gallery 8 is dedicated to the popular lore of TITANIC in films and music and Gallery 9 shows the wreck as it is today in high definition, wide-screen footage.

Closing time at TITANIC Belfast.

And then, almost two hours after it all began, we emerged into an empty lobby.

Belfast night prow.

We had a moment to wander the grounds of the exhibit underneath its eerily lit prows. It was an especially poignant time to be there.

Titanic Belfast astern.

Back on the chilly stern of the MARCO POLO on a spectacularly clear but icy evening, we watched the International Space Station dart across the sky.  The display of today’s most advanced technology on the 100th anniversary of the loss of what was then the world’s greatest technology was thought-provoking.

Midnight memorial in the Marco Polo Lounge.

At midnight, a vigil was held in the Marco Polo Lounge in memory of those lost on April 15, 1912. Another followed at 2:20 AM at the moment TITANIC foundered but by then, we were in our own netherworld.

Towel-igator.

Our Romanian cabin steward Maurius provided a welcome bit of levity when we returned to 917.

A day to remember…

End of Part Three. Much more to come…

Special thanks: Richard Bastow, Martin Cox, Michael J. Masino

Peter Knego continues his Maritime Heritage Cruise on board Cruise and Maritime Voyages’ MARCO POLO with a wreath-laying over the wreck site of the torpedoed Cunard liner LUSITANIA and a visit to the Irish port of Cobh, the TITANIC’s final port of call.

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Keep up to date with Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2012 unless otherwise noted.

Thursday, April 12, 2012

Quiz box.

The nice thing about the special three part Maritime Heritage Quiz was that it covered not just TITANIC but a whole host of “linerly” topics. The winner would get a signed chart from our voyage and an engine room tour.

A few choice questions:

Which ship built in 1961 and still in existence has always carried her original name?

What were two revolutionary features of Orient Line’s Orsova of 1954?

What was the fastest liner on the U.K. to Australian run?

The Captain's Club, facing forward.

After finally sleeping in, it was time to awaken with a cappuccino in my favorite of the MARCO POLO’s many lounges, the 220 seat Captain’s Club. Spanning the width of the ship on Magellan Deck, it has picture window views of the sea, a small dance floor and seating at the bar as well as around a grand piano. In Orient Lines days, this room was a bit sterile with its deep blue color scheme versus the geometric Katzourakis hard fittings but it has since been “warmed up” with autumnal tones and more comfortable seating. Throughout the cruise, it was the setting for classical violin recitals by the talented Olga that were especially appealing on what was once the flagship of the Russian-based Baltic Shipping Company fleet.

Cappuccini, POLO style.

As far as cruise ship cappuccinos go, those aboard MARCO POLO get points for at least having a little “kick”. I would make a regular habit of them as the week progressed.

LUSITANIA eulogized.

Outside, crowds began to gather at the stern. We were approaching the southern tip of Ireland and at 12:15 PM, there would be a special wreath-laying over the spot where the RMS LUSITANIA was torpedoed on May 7, 1915, taking with her in a horrifying eighteen minute plunge, the lives of 1,198 passengers and crew. MARCO POLO’s officers presided as Jonathan Quayle delivered a prayer in memory of those lost.

LUSITANIA wreath ceremony. Photo by Mike Masino 2012.

Two wreaths, one from CMV and the other from White Star Memories, were dropped into the sea at geographical position 51• 25’ N and 8•33’W. A moment of silence followed, punctuated only by a gentle breeze and the gurgle of the waters beneath us before the MARCO POLO sounded her earnest whistle in one long, steady blast.

The Old Head of Kinsale, Ireland.

Ironically, for me, it was the LUSITANIA that inspired my interest in ocean liners when at age 12, I was assigned a paper on the subject. I then became smitten with the four funneled liners and, once hooked, never looked back. As we headed into the Irish Sea and the Old Head of Kinsale came into view, it looked just as I had imagined all those years ago.

Cobh pastels and spire.

Aside from being on such a special ship during a momentous anniversary, I was quite besotted with visiting places I had not yet seen, such as Cobh. Intermittent rain and a chilly wind did their best to dampen our approach but the sun did have its victorious moments, bathing the pastels of its  quaint waterfront in a bright glow.

White Star on the mast.

As crowds lined up to greet the handsome MARCO POLO, a White Star Line flag was raised in tribute to the last place the TITANIC visited before heading into the Atlantic.

TITANIC tears at Cobh.

MARCO POLO pivoted around to berth on her port side, allowing the skies to open up for one last major deluge.

Annie Moore and her brothers.

We went ashore to explore the town on foot. With a population of 140,000, Cobh is a 30 minute drive from Ireland’s second largest city, Cork. Dating from 1750, it was renamed Queenstown in 1849 to honor a visit by Queen Victoria before taking its original name after the Irish Independence in 1921. Cobh’s southern location made it the principal Irish point of departure for emigrants bound for America,.  Fittingly, one of the first things one encounters at the cruise ship landing is a statue of Annie Moore and her brothers — the first Irish immigrants admitted to the U.S. through Ellis Island in January of 1892.

The view from the top of Cobh.

A short walk up the embankment gave us a very nice view of the town. One man, spotting us taking photos, was kind enough to lower his clothes line so we could get an unencumbered view.

St. Coleman’s Cathedral.

Cobh’s most prominent landmark is the granite and limestone festooned St. Coleman’s Cathedral, which was built between 1868 and 1915. It is said the spire was added to commemorate those lost in the sinking of the LUSITANIA, whose survivors were brought to Cobh.

St. Coleman’s interior.

Inside, there is a pulpit made of Austrian Oak and a Rose Window that depicts St. John’s vision of the throne of God as told in the Apocalypse.

LUSITANIA Peace memorial.

In the town, there are several points of interest steeped in ocean liner lore. The LUSITANIA Peace memorial is located in Casement Square opposite the Cobh Library and Courthouse.  Over 100 of the ship’s victims are buried in a nearby cemetery.

MAURETANIA Bar.

Right across the street from the LUSITANIA memorial, there is the MAURETANIA Bar. A peek inside revealed it is dedicated to both the 1907 and 1939 incarnations.

USL Offices.

And we just happened to stumble upon the former United States Lines offices. One of my favorite ships, the SS AMERICA of 1940, was a regular visitor to Cobh during her 1946 — 1964 Atlantic reign.

Backlit beauty at Cobh.

As we walked back to the ship, a break in the clouds cast a haunting light on the MARCO POLO’s port flanks. She looked quite heavenly.

Abstract MARCO.

Even the waters that lapped at her hull seemed to have a certain magical quality.

Cobh memorial concert.

We decided to go back ashore that evening to have fish and chips in a local pub. Easier said than done on the night after the 100th anniversary of the TITANIC’s fateful call but we managed. However, our planned visit to the town’s popular Titanic Experience exhibit was aborted once we saw the queue. As we headed back to the ship, a majestic chorale rendition of “Nearer My God To Thee” echoed from the amphitheater and into the surrounds. Throat-lumping, eye-misting and spine-tingling, even for this hardened soul.

Twilight POLO at Cobh.

Ice-strengthened eve.

Before re boarding, we had a chance to admire our lovely ship all lit up in the Irish twilight.

Crescent terraces.

Nocturnal skyline.

And, once on board, we did a quick round about to capture the ship from a more terrestrial vantage.

MIdnight snacks.

In lieu of a midnight buffet, late night snacks are served in each of the MARCO POLO’s lounges. While trying to post a few Facebook teasers about the cruise from the enhanced wifi waves in the reception area, it was nice to nibble on a few tempura-esque morsels.

If only I could have seen the expression on my face when a fellow passenger stopped to say (after looking at the daily program) he was looking forward to my presentation tomorrow.

“What presentation?”

Friday, April 13, 2012

It was like being in college again, cramming all night to get photos and text uploaded to Keynote (the Mac equivalent of PowerPoint). My “surprise” presentation would have to be about Italian Line’s AUGUSTUS of 1952 since I had quite a few photos of the ship from my most recent visit to Alang on my laptop. The brilliant and generous Maurizio Eliseo was kind enough to respond to a frantic e-mail in the middle of the night with shots of the ship in her prime for me to add as a nice contrast.

MARCO POLO Wheelhouse, facing port.

I may have missed my chance to spend a leisurely day in the Cobh region and kiss the Blarney Stone but once I had the lecture prepared, I relaxed on the ship, then headed to the bridge to witness our 3:00 PM sailaway.

Cobh departure.

MARCO POLO was given a nice send off with scores of people lining up on the quay and along the waterfront.

Captain Antonellos and Cobh Pilot.

What a pleasure it was to see Captain Georgios Antonellos on the bridge of the MARCO POLO!  I have sailed with the good captain on several occasions aboard Premier’s OCEANIC and Imperial Majesty’s REGAL EMPRESS. He is a real gentleman and a master mariner — born and raised on the Ionian island of Kefalonia, where he grew up admiring the visiting cruise ships such as Greek Line’s TSS OLYMPIA (which he would eventually command as REGAL EMPRESS).

PK Presents. Photo by Mike Masino 2012.

At 4:00 PM, I delivered my presentation to a room full of fellow passengers and ship enthusiasts.

The rest of the evening was a bit of a very much welcome blur.

End of Part Two. Much more to come…

Very Special Thanks: Captain Antonellos, Richard Bastow, Martin Cox, Maurizio Eliseo, Michael J. Masino