PT Pelayaran Nasional Indonesia, more commonly referred to as Pelni Lines, is something of an enigma in the modern maritime world. It is one of the very last shipping companies left that run true passenger liners on point to point liner routes.

The Pelni passenger fleet consists of 23 large, modern ships built at Meyer Werft in Germany. 14 of these ships are of around 15,000-gt and carry between 2000 and 3000 passengers in up to four classes. These are deployed on mainline services throughout the Indonesian archipelago on voyages lasting up to two weeks in duration. Another nine 5,700-gt ships carry just over 1000 passengers and are deployed on secondary routes.

A further three 2,600-gt ships, which were built at PT Pal Shipyard in Surabaya, carry 500 passengers and are used on routes that call at the smallest Indonesian ports. These are usually located on shallow rivers. The company also operates several ro-pax ferries and cargo ships, but these cannot be considered passenger liners.

After observing the smart-looking Pelni ships for several years, I decided to sail from Tanjong Priok, the port for Jakarta, to Pulau Batam, an island that lies directly opposite Singapore on the Singapore Strait. A 1st class single-occupancy ticket on the 25-hour voyage cost all of US$80, including meals.

I would be sailing on the KELUD, a ship that is rather bizarrely named after an active volcano in East Java. Its largest recorded eruption took place in 1586, when an estimated 10,000 people were killed, but its temper has not calmed since then. Over the past century it has erupted no less than 5 times, killing around 5,400 people in total, a record often equaled by the average Filipino ferry disaster.

KELUD's Funnel, © Jonathan Boonzaier

I arrived, as instructed, at the Tanjong Priok passenger terminal at 8am on 23 July 2004. The terminal was a massive warehouse-like structure, but inside it was quite clean and there was air-conditioning and plenty of seats. An attempt at security was made, although it would most probably have helped if the machines that we and our luggage had to pass through were actually turned on. There was also a very comfortable looking lounge for first class passengers but it remained firmly locked. Through the darkly tinted windows I could see the 14,716-gt MV Kelud alongside the pier.

Meyer Werft in Papenburg built the KELUD in 1998. She looked good Ða traditional, purposeful passenger ship with real portholes and long covered promenades. Lifeboats were where they should be, and so was the funnel. There were no private balconies nor any other cruise ship frills or fripperies. The Kelud appeared immaculate, from the green boot topping to the mustard-coloured hull, to the white superstructure and the yellow funnel with Pelni’s trademark red and white stripes. I could not wait to get aboard.

KELUD in Batam, © Jonathan Boonzaier

I didn’t have long to wait. At precisely 08h00 the doors to the terminal opened and the typical bedlam that surrounds any mode of transportation in Indonesia erupted in full force. Hundreds of passengers, clutching copious amounts of luggage, ran en masse to the three gangways connecting the Kelud to the shore and fought their way on board. This was understandable as many of them were travelling deck class and needed to get the best available spot. Dozens of porters in orange jackets carrying huge boxes and suitcases, and vendors selling everything from bottles of water to mats joined in the melee. There was a separate gangway for first and second class passengers, but nobody seemed to take any notice of this restriction, certainly not the Pelni officials tasked with keeping the boarding process in order. Avoiding the scrum, I took a stroll down the dock to take some photographs of the ship and the loading of some derelict-looking containers.

The KELUD, like all Pelni ships, has a small space on the foredeck where ten containers can be stowed. These were being loaded by the ship’s crane, and their dilapidated condition was explained by the way the crane operator was bashing them against each other during the loading process. I was quite surprised that the twine that held the doors closed did not give way and send the contents spilling out onto the dock.

Eventually the gangway crowds thinned out and I made way on board. I proceeded to the first class information counter where, after leaving an IDR 20,000 ($2.25) deposit, I was handed a key to cabin 6033, a spotlessly clean cabin not unlike those found on any modern European ferry. The room contained twin beds with fresh linen, a desk, a television, two lockable cupboards, and a bathroom with Pelni monogrammed towels. A window looked out over the covered deck running along deck 6.

Boarding chaos in Tanjung Priok, © Jonathan Boonzaier

It was now time to explore the ship. The KELUD carries 124 first class passengers in two and four berth cabins, 364 second class passengers in six and eight berth cabins that share public bathroom facilities, 594 third class passengers in open dormitory style rooms that have rows of beds that have at least got linen and pillows, and 804 economy class passengers who also sleep in large dormitories, but have much smaller bunks covered with black vinyl pads. An undetermined number of deck passengers sleep just about anywhere they can find a spot, including the floors of the dormitories, the decks and staircase landings.

1st class cabin, © Jonathan Boonzaier

Deck class passengers camp wherever there is space, © Jonathan Boonzaier

1st and 2nd class passengers eat in an attractive restaurant, while third class passengers eat in a utilitarian cafeteria. Economy class passengers are served food on tin trays from a kiosk, and eat wherever the can find a spot. Open to all are an open-air snack bar aft on one of the top decks, a mosque, a small karaoke lounge, a video arcade, and somewhere deep in bowels of the ship, a movie theatre showing Indonesian movies.

Economy class, © Jonathan Boonzaier

I found the KELUD to be solidly built, well maintained, and surprisingly clean given the hard abuse she suffers from her passengers. The ship was obviously built low-tech to keep maintenance simple. There are no Ving cards to open doors, nor any vacuum-flush toilets. The interior is quite utilitarian, although first class areas are carpeted and the staircase landings have some attractive murals.

Pelni's DOBONSOLO in Tanjung Priok, © Jonathan Boonzaier

Tanjong Priok harbour must contain the most fetid water on earth. The stench was quite unbearable, and the heavy air pollution didn’t help matters much. I was impatiently waiting for the KELUD to cast off her mooring lines and head out to sea. Another large Pelni ship, the DOBONSOLO, inbound from Ambon and Surabaya, pulled in behind us shortly before our scheduled sailing time. At 10h00 the KELUD gave a loud blast on her horn indicating that our departure was imminent, but then nothing happened. Passengers were still streaming on board, while those on board lined the open decks and showered the dock below with fruit peelings, cigarette buts, and other litter. An old woman with a broom fought a loosing battle trying to sweep the mess into the filthy water. We were still tied up alongside by the time lunch was served at 11h30.

1st class dining room, © Jonathan Boonzaier

The dining room accommodated both 1st and 2nd class passengers. 1st class passengers sat in the centre section, where meals were served on tables covered with linen underneath a clear plastic cover. 2nd class passengers ate off plain formica tables. The menu was the same for both a plate of rice with some side dishes. Lunch consisted of chicken, fish, spinach and something made from tofu. Passengers got one small chunk of each. Afterwards a pudding and a slice of papaya were served. Stewards wore starched white jackets, but were for the most part quite indifferent towards the passengers. A nice touch was the monogrammed Pelni crockery.

At 12h00, two hours late, the KELUD finally left her berth and made her way past containerships and bulk carriers and out to sea. At anchor outside the port were five other Pelni ships either awaiting their next voyage or undergoing maintenance work. Four were sisters of the KELUD, including the brand new LABOBAR, which has some subtle differences to her exterior design.

The KELUD picked up speed as soon as the pilot was dropped. We headed north towards the Bangka Strait at a speed of 18 knots, and thus quickly left behind the foul pollution of Jakarta and Tanjong Priok.

As the ship made her way towards the Bangka Strait, and ultimately Batam, her passengers settled in for the journey. The passengers were a microcosm of Indonesian society, with merchants, traders, and other wealthier people populating first and second class. Family groups, university students and such occupied the third class, while the economy/deck class passengers were the poorest part of Indonesian society consisting mainly of unemployed young men and women from the overpopulated island of Java heading to Batam to seek their fortune. A handful of European and Australian tourists and backpackers were scattered throughout all classes.

Batam, over the past 20 years, has industrialized rapidly, becoming something of a cheap factory for Singaporean companies. Its economic growth rate is the highest in Indonesia, hence the belief among many young people that it can offer them employment opportunities that are hard to come by elsewhere in the country. Thousands of young people arrive via Pelni every week, and it is a well known fact that most of the men do not find work, while many of the more attractive young girls end up working in the brothels and massage parlours that cater to Singaporean men.

Nevertheless, the KELUD’s passengers were filled with a high degree of optimism and a cheerful attitude prevailed. Most of the economy and deck class passengers did what many Asians do to cope under uncomfortable conditions, they promptly went to sleep, turning the decks into a bizarre scene of intertwined bodies on cardboard and plastic mats. Of the remainder that stayed awake, the women set about organizing the food they had brought along with them, while the men headed out onto the open deck and proceeded to engage in a massive smoking marathon where the main object seemed to be to furiously smoke their way through as many cigarettes as their mouths and lungs would allow. Fortunately Pelni has decreed that its ships are non-smoking indoors, and this is the one rule that is strictly enforced.

A pleasant afternoon on deck ensued. Indonesians are by and large very friendly and most concerned about the negative image that the Bali bombings have cast on their countryÕs reputation abroad. Many of them would come up and apologize for what happened. Others were quite keen to strike up conversations about where I was from, what I was doing, etc.

Dinnertime comes early on a Pelni ship. The stewards, who were now wearing red jackets, served it at 18h00. The change in uniform did not improve the surly service or the small size of the portions, but at least the food was pleasant enough.

After dinner it was time for passengers to attend to their religious affairs. The mosque on Deck 7 was filled with Muslims on their knees, bowing and praying in the general direction of Mecca, while immediately below, Christians were in the restaurant clapping their hands and singing “What a friend we have in Jesus”. I took another walk around the deck and dreamed of drinking a Bintang beer. Pelni ships are dry for both religious and public order reasons.

Later in the evening a band and singers entertained in the restaurant, which attracted a large audience of line dancers, while karaoke singing took place at the outdoor snack bar. Unlike my experience with this activity on Chinese ships, the Indonesians are good singers and their songs quite melodious, so it was rather pleasant to sit up on the deck under a moonlit sky as the ship sailed on through the night.

At midnight I took one last walk around before going to bed. It didn’t take much to figure out that the 3rd and economy class passengers were going to have an uncomfortable night. In the large dormitories the lights and television sets were left on throughout the night. My cabin was a peaceful haven in contrast, and I quickly fell fast asleep.

The illusion was short-lived. At 04h30 the PA system let loose with a loud wailing noise as Muslim passengers were called to prayer. This was broadcast on the general alarm channel so there was no way to silence it. The wailing went on for about 10 minutes, but the noise pollution would not end with that. Having decided that most passengers were now wide-awake, the crew began the non-stop series of PA announcements that plague Pelni ships throughout the day. Every 15 minutes or so there was a long and incomprehensible diatribe that would go on for several minutes. My Bahasa Indonesia is extremely limited, but I could make out that some announcements were to advertise the food being sold at the snack bar (who on earth wants a Hamburger at 05h00?), while others were instructing passengers not to throw garbage overboard or smoke in indoor areas.

By 06h30 I had given up trying to sleep through this barrage of announcements and went to the restaurant to have breakfast. This consisted of a boiled egg smothered with chilli sauce on top of a plate of rice. Nothing else. It was not my idea of a 1st class breakfast, and my mood did not improve when the steward told me that there was no milk or sugar to go along with the coffee. With breakfast out of the way I returned to my cabin in order to get some more sleep. There was nothing else to do as a tropical rain shower was drenching the ship. All the deck class passengers had moved indoors and trying to walk around the interior of the ship was all but impossible.

By mid morning both the skies and my bad mood had cleared up and the Kelud was making her way through the Riau Archipelago. The islands looked very attractive from a distance, with white beaches, crystal clear waters and the occasional fishing village. Despite running at full speed, the KELUD was unable to make up for the two-hour delay stemming from our late departure from Tanjong Priok the day before. Thus we were treated to yet another lunch complete with the band to entertain us.

The ship entered the Singapore Strait at 13h00, passing closely by the casino ship LEISURE WORLD. With Singapore to starboard, we headed into Sekupang Harbour on Batam, were we were tied up alongside the Pelni pier by 14h00. Bedlam broke out once again as almost all passengers tried to disembark at once. Getting off the ship itself was not too much of a hassle, but the police then herded us into a stiflingly hot shed where over 1000 people fought to put their luggage through a single scanning machine. Scrums and shoving matches broke out; the police entered the fray to try calm things down. I ducked behind a counter and left the building via the back door when nobody was looking.

Pelni is facing stiff competition from the plethora of discount airlines that have sprouted up since the deregulation of the Indonesian skies some years back. Passenger numbers are plummeting and they are facing a loosing battle trying to win back passengers, especially those that used to travel in first and second class. The Indonesian government is underwriting the company’s losses, but at the same time they are looking at other ways to survive. Their oldest Meyer Werft-built ship, the KERINCI, is about to be converted into a cruise ship for a new subsidiary called Celebes Cruises. I was shown some drawings of the ship’s intended new interior, and they looked quite attractive in a basic kind of way. There is also a plan to rip out the lower accommodation decks of some of the other ships and replace them with vehicle decks in order to earn revenue from ro-ro cargoes. There is still a demand from the poorer Indonesians for 3rd and economy class berths, and it therefore comes as no surprise to learn that the company’s latest Meyer Werft delivery, the 15,100-gt LABOBAR, carries only 3rd and economy class passengers.

The latest Pelni ship - LABOBAR, © Jonathan Boonzaier

All text and photos © Jonathan Boonzaier 2004

Update March 2011 from Martin Cox:  In 2008 the company took delivery of a new pax/container ship 14,030-gt GUNUNG DEMPO. This latest vessel can accommodate 1,583 passengers, and is also designed to carry 98 twenty-foot-equivalent units (TEU). The GUNUNG DEMPO is 146.50 meterd long and 23.40 meters wide.

Cruise West

The Rise And Fall Of A Family Cruise Business
A History Of The Company And It’s Origins In
Alaska Cruise Lines, Westours and West Line

By

Shawn J. Dake

A study in contrasts: Small Ship versus Big Ship cruising. The SPIRIT OF '98 meets the VISION OF THE SEAS at San Diego, Ca. on January 6, 2001. Photo by Shawn J. Dake

Cruise West, a company that can trace it’s origin to the infancy of Alaska tourism, reached the end of the line in 2010. The long, fascinating history of this company and it’s predecessors spans nearly 64 years. During this time Alaska went from being a territory, virtually unknown to tourists, to the 50^th state which now sees an annual influx of mega-sized cruise ships arriving each summer filled with thousands of passengers. At the time of it’s demise Cruise West was the largest operator of American flagged cruise vessels. Until very recently, this was a highly regarded company, specializing in destination intensive, small ship experiences primarily in Alaska, Canada and along the Columbia River but also offering voyages on foreign-flagged and chartered vessels throughout the world. Cruise West shut down their offices and stopped taking future reservations on September 7, 2010. Following completion of two scheduled cruises in the Pacific Northwest and a European river cruise, the company ceased all operations on September 18^th. The closure of the Seattle-based company is the latest defeat in the long decline of the U.S. cruise industry over the past 40 years. Many factors undoubtedly played a role in the failure of Cruise West. The deep recession combined with overly ambitious expansion plans including the acquisition of the U.S. Flag ships of Clipper Cruise Line in 2006, adding a foreign flagged vessel on continuous world cruise service in 2010, along with charter arrangements in areas beyond their realm of expertise all contributed to the demise of Cruise West. It is indeed a sad ending to what had been one of the few success stories in cruising under the American flag.

As a young pilot Chuck West flew a C-47 similar to this in India and China. The Douglas Aircraft C-47 Dakota also called a Skytrain was a World War II version of the DC-3 airliner. Photo by Shawn J. Dake, copyright 2009.

Cruise West can trace it’s origins back to November, 1946 when Charles B. (Chuck) West opened a small travel agency in Fairbanks, Alaska. Arctic Alaska Travel Service began pioneering efforts in Alaskan tourism the following year with the founding of Arctic Alaska Tours. It has been a long and often illustrious road that’s led to the massive influx of cruise ships and tourists in Alaska today. Chuck West grew up in Los Angeles and became hooked on aviation at age 11 following a sightseeing flight. He would later learn to fly small planes himself. As a young man he worked for Western Airlines in sales. In 1943 he married Marguerite Lee, an Alaskan girl who had been attending college in California. During World War II, Chuck West was a pilot, in command of a C-47 flying over “The Hump” into China. Following the war, he became a bush pilot based in Fairbanks, Alaska flying for Wien Air. Seeing the potential for tourism in what was then still the territory of Alaska, he began flying passengers to the remote villages of Kotzebue and Nome. Having met with initial success the operation expanded into motor coach tours, eventually meeting passengers from the vessels of the Alaska Steamship Company.

The ALEUTIAN was one of the four Alaska Steamship Company vessels bringing the first cruise-tour passengers to Alaska. Schallerers real photo postcard from the collection of Shawn J. Dake.

The s.s. ALASKA off Ketchikan in Southeastern Alaska. Schallerers real photo postcard from the collection of Shawn J. Dake

At the time, Alaska Steam were operating four passenger ships, the ALASKA, ALEUTIAN, BARANOF and DENALI, carrying passengers from Seattle to Seward. Tours were matched to pickup arriving passengers heading to the Alaskan interior and to drop off those sailing back to the lower 48. The basic program was really very similar to the Cruise/Tours operating today. Sadly, in September, 1954, the Alaska Steamship Company abandoned their passenger services that had operated for the previous 60 years. Passengers still had to be found to fill the motor coaches. Canadian Pacific Railway with the PRINCESS LOUISE operated from Vancouver to Skagway, and Canadian National had the PRINCE GEORGE, but neither of these lines could offer sufficient space for Chuck West’s tours. Drastic measures would have to be taken if his buses were to remain full. By 1957 he was determined to start his own cruise operations as a secure source of passengers. Westours was founded as the parent company for the renamed Alaska Hyway Tours, the Grayline sightseeing franchise in Alaska, a small chain of three hotels and most importantly the brand new Alaska Cruise Lines. The company began with two ships acquired from the Union Steamship Company of British Columbia. Union Steam had been founded in 1889 and ran a fleet of relatively small steamers to remote ports in Canada and Alaska.

The former WOOLVESEY CASTLE, a "Castle-class" corvette identical to the three ships purchased by Union Steamship Company of British Columbia. Courtesy of Gordon Ghareeb.

After World War II the company converted three “Castle-class“ corvettes into passenger-cargo ships. Union Steamships was not finding the three ships profitable, even when sailing full. With limited cargo capacity and Canadian union restrictions becoming increasingly difficult to deal with, they were amenable to the offer of chartering one of the ships for the summer of 1957, and ultimately selling two of the vessels to the new Alaska Cruise Lines in 1958.

The GLACIER QUEEN in the original Alaska Cruise Lines colors which matched their motor coaches. Postcard from the collection of Shawn J. Dake.

Another view of the GLACIER QUEEN cruising in Alaska in the updated livery of Westours. Postcard from the collection of Shawn J. Dake.

The first ship, the COQUITLAM was renamed the GLACIER QUEEN. It had been built in 1944 for the British as the small warship HMS WALMER CASTLE, before going to Canada and being renamed HMCS LEASIDE. The sister ship would become the YUKON STAR.

YUKON STAR in an early real photo postcard. Publisher unknown.

The YUKON STAR and the GLACIER QUEEN sailed under the Canadian Flag from Vancouver, British Columbia. Postcard from the collection of Shawn J. Dake.

This ship was also completed in 1944 as the HMS SANDGATE CASTLE, and immediately went to the Canadians as the RCN ST. THOMAS. After acquiring her in 1946 Union Steamships changed the name to CAMOSUN and later CHILCOTIN when the third sister ship of that name was sold to the fledgling Greek company, Sun Line. The ships were 253.6 feet long with a breadth of 36.7 feet and a gross tonnage of approximately 1,835 tons. Each could carry 148 cruise passengers. Driven by a single screw the ships could make a respectable 15 ½ knots along the inside passage. The third converted corvette would latter play a role the company’s fortunes, although not a happy one.

Alaska Cruise Lines brochure from 1959. From the collection of Bjorn Larsson.

GLACIER QUEEN, YUKON STAR staterooms. Brochure from Shawn Dake collection

Alaska Cruise Lines repainted their ships in a blue and gold livery, matching the colors on the buses of Alaska Hyway Tours. After the first season the funnels featured a blue triangle with a white polar bear as their logo. To make them more suitable for cruising a cocktail lounge was added to the forward part of the ship. Shuffleboard courts were painted on the decks while inside the cabins were brightened up, transforming the vessels into comfortable little cruise ships. Sailing from Vancouver, ports of call included Prince Rupert, B.C., and the Alaskan ports of Ketchikan, Petersburg, Juneau, Haines, cruising Glacier Bay and Tracy Arm with Skagway as the northern terminus. The trip could be divided up into four-day one-way voyages or as a roundtrip cruise. The cruises were very successful and by 1962 the company was looking at adding a third ship. Initially, plans called for building a brand new ship.

Had it been completed the ALASKA QUEEN would have had a similar profile to Alaska State Ferries such as the TAKU shown here. Photo by Shawn J. Dake c. 2010.

The 250-passenger vessel was to have been named the ALASKA QUEEN and would have been 350 feet long. The designer was Philip F. Spaulding who had previously created the beautiful COHO for Black Ball Transport, and had recently finalized plans for the first three Alaska State Ferries. A contract was negotiated with the Victoria Machinery Depot to build the ship for $3.7 million. However, when costs were projected to rise by well over a million dollars, Chuck West called the project off. It is the little known story of a cruise ship that never was. The need for additional tonnage was still great, and the search led to Greece. There the third sister ship of the GLACIER QUEEN and YUKON STAR was cruising under the Sun Line banner as their first STELLA MARIS.

The lovely Sun Line ship STELLA MARIS was acquired by Westours and renamed WESTAR. Postcard from the collection of Shawn J. Dake.

The ship had received an even more extensive conversion as a small, luxurious passenger ship, decorated to the high standards Sun Line was famous for. In Greece it was known as the “Princess Of Cruise Yachts” and was the first fully air-conditioned cruise ship in the region. Built as the British warship HMS GUILDFORD CASTLE it was completed in March, 1944 but a few months later went to Canada and was rechristened HMCS HESPELER. Union Steamship Company converted the corvette to a passenger liner in the summer of 1947 and under the new name of CHILCOTIN began cruises to Alaska. As Union Steamships wound down their operations, the ship was sold in 1958 to become the founding vessel of the new Sun Line fleet. Emerging as the STELLA MARIS the vessel measured 1,924 gross tons, just a bit larger than her sisters. She ran very successfully for the Greeks until being retired after the summer season in 1965. Chuck West viewed her as the perfect consort to his existing fleet purchasing the cruise ship and renaming her WESTAR. In a twist of fate, the former Canadian ship that had made the long journey to Greece, was returning to Vancouver once again. The newest Alaska Cruise Line vessel began the delivery voyage from Piraeus, Greece. On January 28, 1966, just a few days into the trip, disaster struck. During refueling at Sardinia, a fuel line became disconnected spraying pressurized oil into the engine room. The ship exploded and caught fire, becoming a total constructive loss. The reunited trio of sister ships was not to be, and the second attempt to add a third ship had ended in tragedy. Alaska Cruise Lines sold the burnt out hulk for scrapping at La Spezia, Italy, saving only the ship’s bell.

Two views of the POLAR STAR which joined Westours in 1968.  Postcards from the collection of Shawn J. Dake.

Perhaps three times is the charm as the next attempt to add a ship was finally successful in 1968. Chuck and Marguerite West had taken a cruise to the Greek Islands in August of 1967 aboard 2,496 gross ton, Greek cruiser DELOS. The ship had been built in 1955 for the Germans as the WAPPEN VON HAMBURG. The vessel had a beautiful array of public rooms with lovely woodwork, comfortable cabins, air conditioning and a swimming pool. The dimensions were 293.6 feet in length with a beam of 43.4 feet. Alaska Cruise Lines bought the 186-passenger vessel and renamed her POLAR STAR. The purchase and extensive refurbishing brought the cost to $3.5 million, while helping make the company a force in Alaska cruising. Like the earlier pair of ships, the latest addition was registered in Canada. The new flagship was instantly popular with her passengers. By 1969, a fourth ship was purchased, this time with loans for $5 million.

The 4,438 gross ton CABO IZARRA

Became the WEST STAR in 1970. Postcards from the collection of Shawn J. Dake

The CABO IZARRA was a nearly new Spanish cruise ship, having been built in 1967. This vessel would operate in international trades as well as summers in Alaska and was to be foreign-registered in Liberia. During the winter the ship would cruise the South Pacific. For this operation the corporation was titled as The West Line, Inc., a division of Westours. The initial five day coastal cruise from Los Angeles to Vancouver, via San Francisco and Victoria took place April 10, 1970. For this voyage the ship was promoted as the m/v IZARRA.

The first brochure for the inaugural cruise of Westours newest ship. From the collection of Shawn J. Dake

Renamed the WEST STAR and still sailing with a Spanish crew, this ship would not have as easy an entry into service as her fleet mates. The foreign crew suffered some service issues with the language barrier, but much worse caused a great deal of problems with the unions representing the crews on the Canadian registered ships. The unions literally picketed the original two ships out of existence.

A West Line postcard for the PACIFIC STAR. Postcard from the collection of Shawn J. Dake

In 1970, the POLAR STAR was renamed the PACIFIC STAR, when the ship was repositioned for year-round service from Tahiti. The West Line sold her in 1972 to Xanadu Cruises who revamped her interiors to an Asian theme and renamed her XANADU. For five years the ship remained with this company, followed by years of lay up and neglect first at Vancouver, then later at a wharf south of Tacoma, Washington.

The PACIFIC STAR continued cruising in the mid-1970's as the XANADU. Photograph by Shawn J. Dake.

The same ship today has a new lease on life as the AURORA. Photograph by Chris Willson

In the mid-1980’s the increasingly derelict ship was towed to Los Angeles harbor with subsequent name changes, first to EXPEX and later FAITHFUL. As an example of the durability of this fine vessel, it is still around in 2010, currently in a stationary role at San Francisco, California under the new name AURORA.

The fleet that should have been sailing to Alaska in 1970 before Union disputes over crewing the WEST STAR ended the careers of the two original ships. From the collection of Shawn J. Dake.

With the two smallest ships sidelined by Canadian union pickets, in 1970 Westours chartered Epirotiki Lines ORPHEUS to fill in summer service in Alaska and offer winter cruises to Mexico. This fine cruise ship was originally built by Harland & Wolff, Belfast in 1948 as the MUNSTER for the Liverpool to Dublin service. She stayed with Westours through 1972 before returning to Greece.

The ORPHEUS had a long and varied career including two seasons under charter to Westours. Postcard from the collection of Shawn J. Dake

The union difficulties continued, forcing all three of the Canadian registered vessels permanently out of Alaska service. For the 1971 season only the ORPHEUS flying the Greek flag and with a Greek crew and the WEST STAR, registered in Liberia but now carrying a Canadian crew would operate. The cruises were sold as Seattle to Skagway voyages, but due to U.S. cabotage laws prohibiting foreign ships from sailing between two U.S. ports, the journey began in Victoria, British Columbia with Canadian Pacific’s PRINCESS MARGUERITE providing the connection from Seattle. Baggage could be checked straight through for transfer between the ships.

West Line brochures from the early 1970's. From the collection of Shawn J. Dake.

In a situation not unlike the current troubles with Cruise West, Westours had been expanding rapidly and was becoming over extended, just as the economy was heading into a downturn. With the foreign operations they were literally sailing into unfamiliar waters. Combined with the striking unions and several financial reversals, Westours was in real danger of bankruptcy. March 1, 1971 could have been the end of the story, for on that day a $1 million dollar payment was due on the WEST STAR. Investors had to be found and they were in Rotterdam. After tense negotiations, Holland America Line purchased Westours for $1.25 million, a fraction of what the company had been worth. Despite retaining the title of “president and chief executive officer” the Dutch had no intention of keeping Chuck West in the company that he had founded. The casually dressed Alaskan was used to running the company his way and constantly butted heads with the staid, traditional Hollanders who were now in fact his boss. In just two short years he was forced out. His last day on the job was February 23, 1973. He signed a two-year “non-compete” clause. His departure coincided with the first large, modern cruise ships journeying to Alaska each summer.

The WEST STAR at Canadian Pacific's old pier B-C, in Vancouver on July 1, 1974. This location is now the site of Canada Place. Photo by Shawn J. Dake c.2010

Holland America Line could supply what Westours alone could not; Large capacity ships to bring greater numbers of passengers to Alaska, not only on roundtrip cruises, but also cruise-tours to view Mt. McKinley and the interior, with some trips venturing into the Yukon Territory of Canada. Initially, still sailing as Westours, the WEST STAR remained the primary ship. It was eventually sold to Philippine interests becoming the DONA MONTSERRAT, before later being traded to China with a renaming to XING HU. In 1975, Holland America brought their newest ship, the PRINSENDAM to Alaskan waters. This was followed in subsequent years by the VEENDAM, STATENDAM and even the flagship ROTTERDAM. Alaska vacations continued to be marketed as Holland America Westours through the summer of 1998 when the Westours portion of the name was finally dropped. For a brief period they tried calling the land portion Holland America Tours but it just didn’t have the same ring to it. Today it is simply Holland America. By whatever name, the company that began as Westours, continues to dominate every aspect of Alaska tourism.

Chuck West revived his cruise business by using blocked space on Alaska Marine Highway vessels like the MALASPINA shown here in the Lynn Canal off Skagway. Photo by Shawn J. Dake c.2010

The new ferry COLUMBIA was added to the Alaska Marine Highway system in 1974. Photo by Shawn J. Dake c.2010

After being forced out of his company by the Dutch, Chuck West started over. Although banned from competing directly with Holland America, he got around it by forming a “public carrier” bus company he renamed Alaska-Yukon Motorcoaches. The four buses would connect at Haines with the Alaska Marine Highway ferries, taking passengers from there by road to Anchorage. In 1975, the two year non-competition agreement was up and Chuck West was off and running again, founding TravAlaska Tours which grew into Alaska Sightseeing/Cruise West. His son Richard (Dick) West became the executive vice president of the parent organization West Travel, Inc., in 1984. By that year 14 cruise ships were sailing in Alaska; quite a contrast from the pioneering years of the 1950’s and ’60’s. TravAlaska packaged cruise-tour itineraries with many of these ships but never with Holland America. One of the primary ships that they regularly contracted space on was the CUNARD PRINCESS, although Paquet’s RHAPSODY (formerly the STATENDAM) and Princess Cruises SUN PRINCESS and ISLAND PRINCESS were also regularly in the mix.

The SHELTERED SEAS began the Alaska Sightseeing/Cruise West tradition of small ship cruising. Cruise West photo.

Another new idea that began at that time was daylight cruising aboard the 90 foot yacht SHELTERED SEAS. Sailing between Ketchikan and Haines up to 70 passengers saw all of the inside passage during the day, staying ashore at hotels along the way. This was the beginning of the West’s small ship cruising concept.

Two views of the SPIRIT OF GLACIER BAY, Cruise West's first overnight vessel. Postcards from the collection of Shawn J. Dake.

The PACIFIC NORTHWEST EXPLORER was acquired from the bankrupt Exploration Cruise Lines. Photo by Shawn J. Dake c.1982.

The same vessel makes a pretty picture as the SPIRIT OF ALASKA. Alaska Sightseeing/Cruise West postcard from the collection of Shawn J. Dake.

As conventional cruise ships grew ever larger, a segment of the traveling public clamored for an alternative. Cruise West was ready to fill that niche. In 1990, they acquired their first overnight ship, the 52-passenger SPIRIT OF GLACIER BAY which provided two-night cruises from Juneau to it’s namesake destination. Taking advantage following the bankruptcy of Exploration Cruise Lines, that company’s 78-passenger PACIFIC NORTHWEST EXPLORER was purchased and renamed the SPIRIT OF ALASKA. Operating under the American flag, these cruises sailed from Seattle to explore the Inside Passage. Built by Blount Shipyards in Warren, Rhode Island, they were ideal for close-up cruising having a shallow draft and bow landing ramp for going ashore practically anywhere. Many passengers enjoyed the experience of these boats pulling right up to a waterfall, the cascade splashing on the bow, or seeing a whale or a bear at close range. In 1993, the company added three more interesting ships.

The SPIRIT OF COLUMBIA docked across from the VOLENDAM at Ketchikan, Alaska. Photo by Cody Durkin (http://www.mastermarf.com)

The SEASPIRIT was 10 years old when Cruise West purchased the ship in 1993. Postcard from the collection of Shawn J. Dake.

The ship was renamed SPIRIT OF ENDEAVOUR seen here at Ketchikan on July 24, 2008. The GOLDEN PRINCESS towers over it in the background. Photo by Cody Durkin (http://www.mastermarf.com)

The SPIRIT OF COLUMBIA was the former NEW SHOREHAM II, also built by Blount in 1979. The SEASPIRIT had most recently sailed for RSVP Cruises, and was renamed SPIRIT OF ENDEAVOUR. She had originally been built at Jeffboat in Indiana during 1983 as the NEWPORT CLIPPER, the first ship of Clipper Cruise Line. The most interesting addition was the SPIRIT OF ‘98, a cruise ship built as a replica of an early 20^th century coastal steamer.

The PILGRIM BELLE, built in 1984 while looking like a steamer from 1924. Postcard from the collection of Shawn J. Dake

As VICTORIAN EMPRESS the ship ran cruises on the St. Lawrence River. Postcard from the collection of Shawn J. Dake

SPIRIT OF '98

Two Cruise West views of the SPIRIT OF '98. Postcards from the collection of Shawn J. Dake

The Klondike Dining Room aboard the SPIRIT OF '98. Photo by Shawn J. Dake c.1995

SPIRIT OF '98 at Skagway, Alaska on July 2, 1995 with the YORKTOWN CLIPPER which Cruise West would later purchase. Photo by Shawn J. Dake c.1995

Coastwise Cruise Line originally built her in 1984 as the PILGRIM BELLE, but her time with them was short, subsequently being renamed COLONIAL EXPLORER and again in 1988 as the VICTORIAN EMPRESS for St. Lawrence Cruise Lines. For a small vessel the cabins and public rooms were extremely attractive maintaining the theme of a journey to Alaska during the Klondike Gold Rush of 1898. Some staterooms opened onto the deck, steamboat style.

The SPIRIT OF DISCOVERY at Skagway, Alaska, August 13, 2010. Photo by Shawn J. Dake c.2010

Yet another addition was the 84-guest SPIRIT OF DISCOVERY. This ship was built for the original incarnation of American Cruise Lines in 1976 as their first INDEPENDENCE. It ran for one season during 1986 for the short-lived Great Pacific Cruise Lines of Seattle as the m.v. COLUMBIA. It now has the dubious distinction of having sailed for three different defunct U.S. cruise lines.

The Bahamas registered SPIRIT OF OCEANUS at Canada Place pier in Vancouver, B.C. Photo by Peter Knego c.2003

The lounge aboard SPIRIT OF OCEANUS. Photo by Peter Knego c. 2003

A typical stateroom aboard the SPIRIT OF OCEANUS. Cruise West photo.

SPIRIT OF OCEANUS, sailing from Vancouver. Photo by Peter Knego c. 2003.

Another momentous year was 2001 when Cruise West invested in the operations of a much larger ocean-going ship flying a foreign flag. The renamed SPIRIT OF OCEANUS began her career in 1991 with Renaissance Cruises as the 4,200 gross ton RENAISSANCE V, also sailing for a time under charter as the HANSEATIC RENAISSANCE. In 1997 she was sold to Malaysian interests becoming the SUN VIVA. Star Cruises acquired the ship in 2000 renaming her MEGASTAR SAGITTARIUS, but soon sold the unwanted ship to Cruise West. This was a big investment and a major change for Cruise West as the 114-passenger ship was rather more luxurious than their existing vessels. The new ship would sail in the South Pacific during the winter, then cruise through Asia and the Russian Far East on the positioning trips to Alaska for the summer. The cruises called at incredibly exotic ports and commanded premium prices.

The PACIFIC EXPLORER at home in Cristobal, Panama. Photo by Shawn J. Dake c.2007

A Polar Bear in the tropics with the Temptress "T" still visible on the funnel. Photo by Shawn J. Dake c.2007

Another departure was the addition of a ship based in Central America. Cruise West joined forces with Temptress Cruise Lines and began marketing their TEMPTRESS EXPLORER. This 100-passenger ship was built in 1970 at New Orleans as the FORCE TIDE. It was subsequently renamed NORPAC II in 1987 and PACIFIC WARRIOR in 1992 before going to Temptress in 1995. During 2002 Cruise West renamed the ship again, becoming the PACIFIC EXPLORER and repainting it in their funnel colors; the blue circle with a Polar Bear looking rather incongruous in the heat of Panama and Costa Rica.

Charles B. (Chuck) West autobiography Mr. Alaska. From the collection of Shawn J. Dake

Father and Son, Chuck and Dick West on the bridge of a Cruise West vessel.

Chuck West passed away in 2005 at his cabin in Haines, Alaska. He had continued running the company until the early 1990’s when he passed the title of chairman and CEO on to his son Richard West. At the time of his passing he was 90 years old and had devoted over 50 years to the development of tourism in Alaska and worldwide.

The YORKTOWN CLIPPER photographed at Skagway on July 2, 1995 originally cruised in Alaska for Clipper Cruise Lines. Photo by Shawn J. Dake c.1995

Docked at Sitka, Alaska, the YORKTOWN CLIPPER went from competitor to become SPIRIT OF YORKTOWN, one of the larger members of the Cruise West fleet. Postcard from the collection of Shawn J. Dake

The NANTUCKET CLIPPER became the SPIRIT OF NANTUCKET, then was renamed again when it came West as the second SPIRIT OF GLACIER BAY. It was intended that the ship be renamed again in 2011 as the SPIRIT OF AMERICA before fate intervened. Cruise West photo.

In 2006, Cruise West purchased the remaining U.S. flagged vessels of Clipper Cruise Lines. Their largest ship, the 138-passenger YORKTOWN CLIPPER, built in 1988, was renamed SPIRIT OF YORKTOWN. Smaller fleetmate, the 102-passenger NANTUCKET CLIPPER became the SPIRIT OF NANTUCKET. For the first two seasons it remained on the East Coast operating similar programs to those offered by the previous owners, but new cruising grounds for Cruise West. This ship had the unfortunate habit of running into things and suffered it’s first serious accident after striking an uncharted object in the Intercoastal Waterway off Virginia on November 8, 2007. The ship was holed, but repaired and over the winter was brought to the West Coast for Alaska service. It was subsequently renamed the SPIRIT OF GLACIER BAY (ii). In June it hit a rock while cruising Tracy Arm causing only minor damage. Just over a month later on July 7, 2008 the ship ran aground and was left high and dry on a sandbar in Tarr Inlet at Glacier Bay National Park. With the downturn in the economy the ship was withdrawn from service in 2009 and remained laid up. Had the company survived, plans for 2011 called for a rival of cruising on the Mississippi River aboard the same ship to be renamed SPIRIT OF AMERICA. The 1,471 ton vessel had originally been constructed in 1984. Sadly, since 2008 there has been no regular overnight passenger service on America’s inland waterways for the first time since steamboat service began in 1811.

SPIRIT OF GLACIER BAY, July 7, 2008, National Park Service photo.

The SPIRIT OF GLACIER BAY (ii) high and dry on the mud in Glacier Bay on July 7, 2008. United States Coast Guard photo

Until Cruise West added the SPIRIT OF OCEANUS and the TEMPTRESS EXPLORER all of the small ships were under the U.S. flag. Although they were best known for their up-close cruises in Alaska, the itineraries had been expanding to include Pacific Northwest cruises, trips on the Columbia River, wine country cruises in California and winter excursions into the Sea Of Cortez. It remained a relatively small, family run company and that translated to the intimate atmosphere aboard the ships. That changed somewhat in 2008 when Dietmar Wertanzl was brought in as president and CEO of Cruise West. His background was with big ship lines such as Crystal and Celebrity and with the land operator Tauck Tours as their Chief Operating Officer. His key mission was to grow the customer base while keeping costs down. He could not have started at a worse time. In October, 2008 when the stock market plummeted, the reservation lines at Cruise West simply stopped ringing. That November, the company laid off a third of their staff and removed two ships from Alaska service the following summer. As the economy worsened, cancellations on the relatively high-priced cruises increased. According to Dick West, before mid-2008 bookings were up by 25% over 2007 levels. During 2009, tourism to Alaska was off by 40%. The company continued to hold on through the 2010 summer season while seeking financial backing from new investors. Many negotiations looked promising but with the credit market having dried up each potential deal fell apart. By July, the company was in serious financial straits requiring a bridge loan just to make it through the month. Dick West put up all the equity in his home for a $1.5 million loan by Columbia Bank. There was still hope that a private equity company would invest in Cruise West and that agreement was to be finalized by August 27^th. The bond company and the Federal Maritime Commission had given them until that date to secure the additional financing. It didn’t happen. On August 30^th Dietmar Wertanzl resigned and the title of CEO passed back to Dick West. September 1^st the Maritime Administration was notified that Cruise West was no longer taking bookings for cruises. A week later the rest of the travel industry was given the news that Cruise West had failed.

The CORINTHIAN II, a sistership of the SPIRIT OF OCEANUS operated under charter on voyages to Antarctica from Ushuaia, Argentina. Photo by Shawn J. Dake c.2006

By the final season in 2010, Cruise West was venturing into areas they had never been before, offering selected voyages on chartered ships in areas like the Galapagos Islands, European river cruises and as remote as Antarctica. Two of those ships were even near sisters of their own SPIRIT OF OCEANUS, the former Renaissance vessels RENAISSANCE III which had been renamed GALAPAGOS EXPLORER II and in Antarctica the former RENAISSANCE VII now the CORINTHIAN II. The European riverboat was the 361-foot long AMADEUS DIAMOND. These new programs reportedly sold well, and were profitable for the company at a time when their traditional cruises were floundering.

The SPIRIT OF OCEANUS began what would have been the longest World Cruise during 2010, but ended far short of the final goal when Cruise West failed in September. Cruise West photo.

The most ambitious project however was the plan for a continuous 335-day circumnavigation of the globe aboard the 60-suite SPIRIT OF OCEANUS. This would be the most exclusive and port intensive World Cruise since Bergen Line offered similar trips aboard the venerated STELLA POLARIS of 1927. On March 6, 2010, 71-passengers departed from Singapore, including two that were staying aboard for the full World Cruise, along with 72 crew. The trip could be booked as a whole voyage or any of 24 different segments, divided into six “chapters.” Upon completion of the third chapter the storybook cruise ended at about the halfway point. The innovative voyage was abruptly terminated at St. John’s Newfoundland. Columbia Bank moved to force the sale of the SPIRIT OF OCEANUS to cover their credit card exposure for people who had paid but had not yet sailed. The ship was immediately sold to TN Cruise K/S of Denmark for an undetermined use. International Shipping Partners of Miami will manage the vessel and likely charter it to another operator. In yet another strange coincidence, the ship has reportedly been renamed SEA SPIRIT, the very same name of a vessel previously purchased by Cruise West.

The SPIRIT OF ENDEAVOUR seen cruising in Glacier Bay during happier times, was among the first to be sold. Photo by Peter Knego, c.2003.

Like Westours before it, Cruise West ran into deep financial difficulties from which it could not recover. The difference was Cruise West could not find a buyer in time during the worst economy since the Great Depression whereas Westours was lost, yet saved by the Holland America Line purchase. The loss of Cruise West leaves passengers with fewer alternatives in small ship cruising, with the reformed American Cruise Lines and Blount Small Ship Adventures being the only serious competitors left flying the U.S. flag. Perhaps some of the ships will end up with one of these companies. The assets of Cruise West were liquidated very quickly. The SPIRIT OF ’98, SPIRIT OF ENDEAVOUR and SPIRIT OF DISCOVERY went first, for pennies on the dollar, all proceeds being taken by the banks that held notes on the vessels. Four other ships are controlled by GE Capital which is searching for a buyer. Cruise West did not immediately file for bankruptcy protection, maintaining that they have no cash or assets left. If true, it indicates that the company may have been grossly mismanaged over the past few years.  The lack of a bankruptcy filing has made it more difficult for creditors to register claims. Given the recent track record of companies operating small ships in U.S. waters, it seems unlikely that there will be a revival of the type of cruise programs that Cruise West specialized in. It would take a buyer with tremendous cash reserves and nerve to step into this difficult cruising environment. It is a shame because throughout the years small ship cruising as popularized by the West family, has been a great way to travel. Not everyone wants to cruise on a ship with 2,000 to 6,000 other passengers. Sailing with about 100 guests presents a completely unique experience that is treasured by those that have had the pleasure of trying it.

The SPIRIT OF DISCOVERY at Juneau, Alaska on August 20, 2010, just days before Cruise West ceased operations. Photo by Shawn J. Dake c.2010.

In conclusion, it is fitting to leave the last words to Cruise West’s Chairman and Managing Director, Richard (Dick) West. Following the closure this statement was placed on the company’s website and it nicely sums up the philosophy of this line and the final difficulties it faced. It reads in part, “I have never given up hope that we might be able to find a way to survive by working with various interested parties. I am absolutely heartbroken that this family legacy has come to an end. We have a product that appeals to the type of traveler that wants to experience the destination, not the inside of a ship. We have a passionate following of repeat guests and I am particularly distressed that our most loyal guests who have booked with us will now not be able to travel. We have done absolutely everything to maintain operations, but with limited resources and the current tight financial market, we simply cannot continue. It is with a heavy heart that we close our doors, knowing that guests, travel agents, and partners will not receive the kind of personal attention that they have grown to expect from us. I want to extend my most sincere thanks to our loyal employees, many of which have been here for decades. I am devastated that, though they have given abundantly of their time and energy, we will be unable to continue delivering memorable experiences.” The concluding paragraph sums up this history and ends the story: “Cruise West believes that small is beautiful. Small-ship explorations allow up-close and personal experiences unmatched by traditional larger cruise lines. For nearly 64-years, Cruise West has provided authentic travel experiences. Cruise West will cease operations on September 18, 2010.” Their presence in the cruise industry and the history of Alaska will truly be missed.

Article Copyright 2010 by Shawn J. Dake

Thanks to Martin Cox, Gordon Ghareeb, Mark Goldberg and Peter Knego for their expertise in all things related to passenger ships.

LASSCO Line map circa 1926

The Los Angeles Steamship Company came into being around the purchase of two ships already famous on the West Coast; the YALE and HARVARD. These two vessels were originaly built for New York-Boston service, then later operated by Admiral Line on the West Coast before World War 1. The U.S. Navy purchased them both in 1918 for use as troop transports between Southampton and Le Havre.

When the two ships were offered for sale after the war, a group of Los Angeles business men, with the backing of the LA Chamber of Commerce, formed the Yale-Harvard Syndicate, and bought the ships from the Navy. Thus the Los Angeles Steamship Company was formed on June 10, 1920. Harry and Ralph Chandler of the Los Angeles Times were included on the Board. YALE and HARVARD were brought around from Philadelphia to Los Angeles and extensively reconditioned by the Los Angeles Shipbuilding and dry-dock Company, and converted from coal to oil burning.

The YALE sailed from Los Angeles for San Francisco May 2, 1921 with a festive and gala departure. HARVARD followed in August 5. These fast coastal ships became known as “white Flyers of the Pacific”, they each made four sailings a week and carried 565 passengers at an average speed of 24.6 knots between Los Angeles and San Francisco. They operated this fast service almost continuously in to the 1930s, adding San Diego as a stop. Pacific Electric Company began a boat train from Downtown Los Angeles at sixth and main to the dockside at Wilmington for a direct connection the ships.

Clarence Matson (not related to Matson Navigation of San Francisco) and Captain Frederichs of the Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce sensed enormous potential in the Port of Los Angeles and lobbied Washington for the loan of Government surplus ships for a service to Hawaii. The U.S. Shipping Board agreed to charter two vessels on condition that an existing steamship Company operate them. The LA Chamber of Commerce approached LASSCO, and at a special lunch aboard HARVARD on September 19, 1921 LASSCO officials mapped out their plans.

Two German built war prize liners were chartered to LASSCO in December of 1921. The former GROSSER KURFURST, and FREIDERICH DER GROSSE of Norddeutcher Lloyd, had served as Transports in World War 1 as AEOLUS and HURON. Well suited for the Hawaiian service the liners as they had been built for Norddeutcher Lloyds tropical service and were used both on the Atlantic and Far East routes. Refitted on the east coast, AEOLUS was renamed CITY OF LOS ANGELES and HURON became CITY OF HONOLULU. Arriving in the Los Angeles July 16 1922, the CITY OF LOS ANGELES was the largest American ship in Pacific waters, the CITY OF HONOLULU followed 11 days later. Both were overhauled to all first class accommodation by Los Angeles Shipbuilding and Dry-dock Company, painted white with black stacks. A gymnasium and pool were added to their many amenities.

The maiden voyage of CITY OF LOS ANGELES to Hawaii was of great significance to the port of Los Angeles, this voyage represented the beginning of the first regular connection to Hawaii from Los Angeles and presented the first challenge to the dominance of San Francisco’s long established Matson Line. The LA Chamber of Commerce was in charge of recreation and entertainment for this voyage to Hawaii, reservations were made by members of the Chamber and families then to the general public. Round trip fare ranged from $325 to $635 for staterooms with private baths. 264 passengers booked for inaugural voyage.

At 12:30pm on September 11, 1922 CITY OF LOS ANGELES departed with a gala send off. Hundreds lined the docks, the Los Angeles Police Band played aboard a tug; yachts fired cannons and the USS CONNECTICUT saluted with three blasts of her siren. Seven days later she was greeted in Hilo by thousands of islanders, she sailed on to Maui, then to Honolulu to an even greater ovation before returning to Los Angeles.

Her new “sister” ship CITY OF HONOLULU followed twelve days later. With Captain Lester at the helm she departed Los Angeles for Honolulu, September 23rd to send off similar to that of her running mate. On her return voyage 5 days out of Honolulu disaster struck. At 4:00am on October 12, a mysterious fire broke out, efforts to fight it proved useless, as it spread over the next few hours it became clear that the ship was doomed. Captain Lester gave the order to abandon ship at 8 a.m. when she was about 600 miles from the Coast of California. The orchestra played jazz as passengers were loaded into the boats. Two hours later all crew and passengers had left the ship, a SOS had been sent out, the sea was calm. The disaster was dubbed “ship wreck de luxe” as the chief steward had provisioned the lifeboats with roast chicken, delicacies from the galley, plenty to drink and cigarettes.

The freighter WEST FARALON was 50 miles away and arrived at the scene a little before 3:00am. Other vessels picked up the distress message and the Shipping Board dispatched two cutters, SHAWNEE and TAMOROA. The U.S. Army Transport THOMAS came along side the freighter at 11:00pm and at dawn all passengers were transferred as there was no accommodation on the freighter for them.

The U.S.A.T. THOMAS proceeded on to its intended destination San Francisco with soldiers returning home from the Philippines from a tour of duty. When Harry Chandler, (LA Times and LASSCO Board member) heard that the San Francisco press was preparing sending out a boat to meet the THOMAS and interview the survivors he imagined the media disaster. He quickly contacted his associates in Washington, the result was the THOMAS reversed course in sight of the coast, right outside the Golden Gate, and returned to Los Angeles almost causing a mutiny aboard. When THOMAS docked in San Pedro limousines were sent to met the passengers and special trains were put on for the passengers who by now had received fresh clothes and cigarettes care of Harry Chandler. The press were there to meet the smiling survivors as they walk down the gang plank.

Meanwhile the WEST FARALON had attempted to tow the still burning liner CITY OF HONOLULU, but salvage proved impossible. The hulk had become a danger to other shipping so five days after the fire the cutter SHAWNEE fired 25 rounds in to the smoldering ship and sank her.

Even before the burning CITY OF HONOLULU went to the bottom, plans were made to charter the PRESIDENT HARRISON to complete the bi-monthly sailing schedule. Only two days late LASSCO made good on its timetable with PRESIDENT HARRISON filled to capacity.

As a more permanent replacement LASSCO bought the transport U.S.A.T. SHERMAN, formerly the British liner MOBILE of 1893. Refitted as a passenger liner, again by LA Shipbuilding and Dry-dock Co., she was ready for service as CALAWAII with accommodation for 178 first class and 52 third. February 10, 1923 saw her sail to Honolulu in her new white LASSCO livery. She proved a popular cabin liner.

LASSCO bought the Government chartered CITY OF LOS ANGELES in 1923 and LA Shipbuilding & Dry Dock Co re-engined her at a cost over a million dollars to reach the Hawaiian islands in five and a half days instead of the previous seven.

Motivated by Matson Lines’ construction of MALOLO, a replacement for lost CITY OF HONOLULU was purchased. The PRESIDENT ARTHUR, formerly PRINCESS ALICE, another German-built war prize. Reconditioned to luxurious standards she was made ready for the Hawaii service. On June 7, 1927 7,000 people crowded the LASSCO dock to bid farewell to the 300 passengers on sailing on the new CITY OF HONOLULU.

Rumors that LASSCO was bidding on the United American Lines ship RESOLUTE came to nothing, but a freighter WEST ERRAL was purchased and reconditioned for 16 passengers and tanks for molasses and oil, renamed DIAMOND HEAD. She was advertised as a relaxed way to travel and started her service from Los Angeles Feb 2, 1929.

These were the best years for LASSCO and by 1929 layover periods were getting shorter and all ships were sailing more frequently. Passenger volume exceeded that of the Matson Line. Plans were announced to build two new coastal steamers to replace the YALE and HARVARD.

The following year, however, world and local events changed everything. The stock market crash saw freight and in particular passenger volumes decrease, then in May 1930, a fire over took the second CITY OF HONOLULU while she was berthed at Honolulu. The passenger areas were damaged beyond repair though her machinery was still good. With the insurance money LASSCO officials announced plans for a new $7 million dollar vessel, then instead looked for a replacement vessel and Ralph Chandler surveyed the SS REPUBLIC in New York. By mid 1930 LASSCO was financially over extended, plans for the new coastal steamers were abandoned. With the added competition of Matson’s new MALOLO, LASSCO sort talks with Matson. In October LASSCO was absorbed by it’s former competitor Matson with the date of transfer as January 1, 1931. LASSCO ships were to be operated from the Los Angeles office as a subsidiary of Matson. At the time of the merger LASSCO owned CITY OF LOS ANGELES, CITY OF HONOLULU (burned and laid up in LA), YALE, HARVARD, CALAWAII, DIAMOND HEAD, WAIMEA, and the freighters GENERAL M.H. SHERMAN, MARIAN OTIS SHERMAN, HELEN WHITTIER, CONSTANCE CHANDLER and FORT WAYNE.

YALE and HARVARD continued the fast coastal service LA-SF-San Diego and in November 1930, YALE flew a 60 foot pennant to celebrate her 1000th voyage between Los Angeles and San Francisco. The following May disaster struck again when HARVARD on voyage number 972 slammed in to rocks off Point Arguello, near Santa Barbara at 3:00am. All 497 passengers and crew were rescued by freighter San Anselmo and cruiser U.S. LOUISVILLE but the ship became a total loss.

To replace her wrecked HARVARD, CALAWAII made a few coastal trips until the chartered IROQUOIS came into service in mid summer 1931. The 1927-built liner had superior interiors to the 1906-built YALE but proved slower. However, with declining passenger volume, she was returned to Clyde Line by December and YALE sailed alone with the freight traffic handled by three small freighters.

In 1932 CITY OF LOS ANGELES and CALAWAII were laid up finally ending LASSCOs service from Los Angeles to Hawaii. The CALAWAII towed the burned second CITY OF HONOLULU for the final voyage to Japan to be scrapped in 1933. In May 1933 DIAMOND HEAD ceased carrying passengers, reverting to a freight only service. CITY OF LOS ANGELES was moved for lay up to San Diego. Plans for a “South Sea Islands Cruise” were made and the CITY OF LOS ANGELES was reactivated and departed Los Angeles January 12, 1934 and returned February 24 after a 12,000 mile cruise, three days late. A second cruise from San Francisco began June 27, 1934 and ended August 13 after 13,020 miles of steaming. Now old and tired, the company received many complaints from her passengers, and was again laid up in San Francisco. In May 1935, she sailed to San Diego to serve as an Hotel during the San Diego Exposition returning to San Francisco March 1936 for a year before being sold for demolition. Making one last stop in Los Angeles she loaded scrap metal before sail to Japan for demolition.

As competition from the railroad and cars took passengers away from the coastal run, YALE was withdrawn in October 1, 1935. Matson put her back in service in May 1936 for three sailing weekly between Los Angeles and San Francisco, but she service was withdrawn by July and YALE laid up at Antioch and then sold. After U.S. Navy service in Alaska, she was finally broken up in 1949.

On December 30, 1937 the Los Angeles Steamship Company was formally dissolved. LASSCO (with the help of LA Chamber of Commerce) had made a profit and substantially advertised the Port of Los Angeles. They had gained a share of the Hawaiian tourist trade from zero in 1920 to more than Matson Line by 1927. In freight, its impact on manufactures can be seen in that in 1920 there were about 100 Los Angeles companies in trade with Hawaii, by 1930 it was 1,000. During this same period Los Angeles’ exports rose and by 1928 equaled that of San Francisco’s. Though LASSCO was in existence for little over a decade, it had great significance for the Pacific Coast and Hawaiian shipping industries and the routes it pioneered were continued by Matson Line to the present day.

Martin Cox, 2000

A unique illustrated book on the entire history of the the Los Angeles Steamship Company was published by Glencannon Press and the Steamship Historical Society in 2009:  Hollywood to Honolulu, the story of the Los Angeles Steamship Company by Gordon Ghareeb and Martin Cox

Selected LASSCO ships:

YALE,  HARVARD, CITY OF LOS ANGELES, CITY OF HONOLULU (I), WAIMEA, CALAWAII, DIAMOND HEAD, CITY OF HONOLULU (II)

Munson Steamship Line ticket. Martin Cox Collection

A brief history of Munson Steamship Line by Martin Cox

Walter D. Munson established Munson Steamship Line in 1899 when he built a freight line Havana-New York service and then extended to include Eastern Cuba, Mexico and the gulf ports. Succeeded by his son Carlos Munson, then son Frank Munson the Line had sixty steamers and became the largest ocean freight company on the Eastern Seaboard of the United States.

In 1915 the first ship to include passenger accommodation for the line was the SS MUNAMAR, built (by Maryland Steel in Baltimore) for the eastern Cuba trade. After World War I, Frank Munson began a passenger and freight service from New York to east coast of South America using foreign built vessels interned in American ports. In her brochure materials the new vessel MUNAMAR is described: ” Most comfortable accommodations are offered for the 50 first-class and 30 second-class passengers.” and the Salon is described as, “finished in white, paneled with brown tapestry, the furniture being oak.”

The MOCCASIN (ex PRINZ JOACHIM of Hamburg America Line) inaugurated the service in December 1919 but sank at her pier in Brooklyn and was sold. A second ship MARTHA WASHINGTON (formerly of Unione Austriaca, Austria) followed by HURON, AEOLUS and CALLAO (formerly GROSSER KURFURST and FRIEDRICH DER GROSSE and SIERRA CORDOBA of Norddeutscher Lloyd).

In July 1921 the first of four “535″class transports converted to passenger ships by the United States Shipping Board were assigned to Munson Line. AMERICAN LEGION, SOUTHERN CROSS, PAN AMERICAN and WESTERN WORLD. Thus the ex German liners were returned to the USSB, and in 1922 MARTHA WASHINGTON was ceded to Italy after an act on Congress recognized her as belonging to Cosulich Line reorganized under the Italian Flag.

The new 295-passenger SS MUNARGO was commissioned for Caribbean service (New York – Nassau – Eastern Cuba) in 1922. The 80-passenger MUMANAR joined the service offering a weekly sailing from New York.

In 1925 Munson Line purchased their previously chartered vessels from the USSB and the service continued with sailing to Bermuda added in 1930.

The WESTERN WORLD ran aground on San Sebastian Island off the coast of Brazil in August 1931 and remain stuck, four months later she arrived in New York for repairs.

The depression resulted in severely reduced traffic and the MUNAMAR was sold and as Munson Line ran into financial troubles its ships were either laid up or scraped. The MUNARGO was transferred to a tourist service Miami, Nassau, Havana in 1937 but sold a year later when the company went bankrupt. The remaining passenger ships were taken over by the Maritime Commission.

Munson Line’s passenger ships:

MUNAMAR, MOCCASIN, MARTHA WASHINGTON, HURON, AEOLUS, CALLAO, AMERICAN LEGION, SOUTHERN CROSS, PAN AMERICAN, WESTERN WORLD

MATSONIA post card

A Stunningly Brief History of Matson Line:

Captain William Matson began a shipping service between California and Hawaii in 1882 with the schooner EMMA CLAUDINA. Matson Navigation Company was incorporated in 1901 and its first passenger ship sailing was made by the steamer LURLINE in 1908. Larger passenger and freight vessels were built for the service over the next seven years with distinctive red-brown hulls and engines aft.

In World War I, WILHELMINA, MAUI and MATSONIA were taken over by the Navy and not returned until 1920. Meanwhile two “535″ type transports were assigned to Maston but returned a year later to the USSB. In 1926, Matson took over three ships that had been sailing for Oceanic Steamship Co: SIERRA, SONOMA and VENTURA. They were placed in the Australian trade and and the company was reorganized as Matson-Oceanic Line. In 1927, a new liner, MALOLO, the most lavish yet seen on the West Coast, joined the fleet. Matson next took over its rival, the Los Angeles Steamship Company, which had carried more passengers to Hawaii in 1927 than Matson. Briefly called Matson-Lassco Line, the San Francisco company set about building three larger, faster more luxurious ships (MARIPOSA, MONTEREY and LURLINE — all delivered in the early 1930s). Two ships sailed in Australian trade and two in Hawaiian service, replacing the older vessels.

All four liners were used as war transports and served all over the world and amazingly, all four survived. After the war, only MATSONIA (ex MALOLO) re-entered the service to Hawaii but was sold in 1948 and replaced by the refitted LURLINE. The two remaining vessels were sold but MONTEREY was repurchased in the mid 1950s and renamed MATSONIA, to revive the weekly service to Hawaii. Two new fast cargo liners were rebuilt in 1956 as the passenger ships MONTEREY and MARIPOSA for the South Pacific service. In 196,3 the LURLINE was sold after engine problems and MATSONIA took her name and continued in the Hawaiian trade. By 1973, Matson had ended its passenger service and sold all remaining passenger ships, continuing to the present as a freight only line with a large fleet of container ships.

R.M.S. WINDSOR CASTLE in the Western Docks from Mayflower Park, Southampton in 1961. Martin Cox collection.

A brief Company History by Martin Cox

Union-Castle Line, famed for it’s lavender hulled liners that ran on a clockwork timetable between Southampton and South Africa, began as two separate companies: Union Line and Castle Line.

Union Line
The Southampton Steam Shipping Co was formed to bring coal to Southampton from South Wales to meet the demands of P & O Line and Royal Mail. Later renamed Union Steam Collier Co, both major shipping lines were represented on the board in the 1853 venture. However, after the disruption of the Crimean War, coal stocks at Southampton were high and the five new vessels were laid idle after war use by the British Admiralty. The company was re-registered as Union Line in 1857, with Southampton as head office. That same year, the British Admiralty invited tenders for the mail contract to the Cape Colony and Natal. As a result, Union Line was awarded the contract with monthly sailings in each direction of not more than 42 days sailing Plymouth to Cape Town or Simonstown. Building a large fleet of ships, Union Line sailed on the Cape run in competition with Castle Line, until the two were allowed to amalgamate in March 1900.

Castle Line
Castle Line had its origins with Donald Currie’s purchase of a controlling interest in the Leith, Hull and Hamburg Steam Packet Company in 1862 after he resigned from Cunard Line. He registered his shipping business as Donald Currie & Co of Liverpool and set up for trade with India by ordering his fleet of four sailing ships, all with the suffix “Castle” in their names. In 1876, Castle Mail Packet Co. Ltd was formed. Later that year, the Colonial Government awarded a joint mail contract, resulting in in a state of intense competition between both firms. The service to the Cape thus became weekly by alternating steamers. In 1883, a seven year joint mail contract was signed with the clause that the companies shall not amalgamate. In 1887, tickets became interchangeable, and in 1888, the mail contract was renewed for five years (with the non-amalgamation clause remaining). By 1890, the new DUNNOTTAR CASTLE had reduced the voyage to 17 days and 20 hours, and embarkation was switched from Dartmouth to Southampton. In 1893, both Union and Castle Lines began a joint cargo service from South Africa to New York and the mail contract was re-signed, maintaining the non-amalgamation clause. In 1899, the Boer War began, and the vessels of both companies were used as troop transports. In late 1899, a new mail contract was offered with a vital difference: One company, not two could win the award. Since both companies had built their fleets based on complimentary sailings, neither bid on the contract. Eventually a joint contract was awarded, but Donald Currie proposed a merger.

Union-Castle Line
It was announced in December 1899 that a merger between Union Line and The Castle Mail Packet Co, Ltd. would take place, with Castle Line taking over the fleet. On March 8, 1900 Union-Castle Mail Steamship Co. Ltd was registered. At the time of the merger, the Union Steamship fleet included: ARAB, TROJAN, SPARTAN, MOOR, MEXICAN, SCOT, GAUL, GOTH, GREEK, GUELPH, NORMAN, BRITON, GASCON, GAIKA, GOORKKA, GERMAN, SABINE, SUSUEHANNA, GALEKA, SAXON, GALICIAN and the CELT on order. The Castle Line Mail Packet Co ships included: GARTH CASTLE, HAWARDEN CASTLE, NORHAM CASTLE, ROSLIN CASTLE, PEMBROKE CASTLE, DUNNOTTAR CASTLE, DOUNE CASTLE, LISMORE CASTLE, TANTALLON CASTLE, HARLECH CASTLE, ARUNDEL CASTLE, DUNVEGAN CASTLE, TINTAGEL CASTLE, AVONDALE CASTLE, DUNOLLY CASTLE, RAGLAN CASTLE, CARISBROOKE CASTLE, BRAEMAR CASTLE, KINFAUNS CASTLE, KILDONOAN CASTLE. Sailings from London were ended, the fleets adopted Castle Lines’ lavender gray hulls with vermilion funnels and the completed CELT was launched as WALMER CASTLE.

A boom expected to follow the Boer War failed to materialize, and 15 ships were laid up at Netley in Southampton Water in 1902. Nine ships undertook the weekly mail service: SAXON, BRITON, NORMAN, WALMER CASTLE, CARISBROOKE CASTLE, DUNVEGAN CASTLE, KILDONAN CASTLE, and KINFAUS CASTLE. When the new KENILWORTH CASTLE came on line in 1904, she replaced DUNVEGAN CASTLE, which made a series of cruises to Norway, the Mediterranean and around Britain, before entering the reserve fleet at Netley, Southampton.

Lord Gladstone, the first Governor General of South Africa, traveled out in 1910 aboard WALMER CASTLE. The 1900 mail contract was extended until 1912, as the the colonies united and South African Parliament formed under the Union of South Africa. The Duke of Connaught sailed to open the new Parliament aboard BALMORAL CASTLE.

Union-Castle under Royal Mail
In April 1912, Royal Mail Line took control of Union-Castle and a new ten year mail contract was signed. With the Welshman Sir Owen Philipps (later Lord Kylsant) on the board, the first new ships ordered had Welsh names: LLANDOVERY CASTLE and LLANSTEPHAN CASTLE.

When the First World War broke out in 1914, the laid up CARISBROOKE CASTLE was the first ship to be requisitioned for service. By September 4, ninteen of Union-Castle’s forty one oceangoing vessels were on National service. By 1915 thirteen Union-Castle steamers were in service as hospital ships. The losses added up: GALEKA was mined; ALNICK CASTLE was torpedoed; DOVER CASTLE, CARLISLE CASTLE, AROS CASTLE, GLENART CASTLE, LLANDOVERY CASTLE, GALWAY CASTLE were all lost. By October 1919, the ‘Round Africa’ service had recommenced with a number of wartime standard ships replacing war losses, and Natal Direct Line had been acquired. Union-Castles’ first four funneled liner, ARUNDEL CASTLE (IV) commenced her maiden voyage in April 1921 (with her sister WINDSOR CASTLE (II) following a year later).

In 1925, the motorship CARNARVON CASTLE entered service, her squat funnels heralding a new profile for the next decade, and instantly making the two four stackers appear old fashioned. In 1927, Royal Mail Line added White Star Line to its already vast array of shipping companies, but as the decade drew to a close, was immersed in increasing troubles. The British Treasury became involved over concerns regarding Union-Castle Line’s parent company with an aim to separate it from Royal Mail. By 1934, Lord Kylsant had resigned and Royal Mail was in liquidation. With heavy Government involvement, Union-Castle commenced a five year rebuilding program. In 1936, the biggest vessel yet, STIRLING CASTLE, beat the record to the Cape set in 1893 by SCOT. A new ten year 14 day mail contract was signed, which meant the fleet had to be re-engined and rebuilt, as only the STIRLING CASTLE and ATHLONE CASTLE could maintain the timetable. ARUNDEL CASTLE and WINDSOR CASTLE had their forward hulls and bows rebuilt and funnels reduced to two; CARNARVON CASTLE, WINCHESTER CASTLE, and WARWICK CASTLE were re-engined. By 1939, the rebuilding program was completed, and by August, signs of the coming war were all too evident. The laid up EDINBURGH CASTLE was used for trooping and DUNNOTTAR CASTLE became an armed merchant cruiser. After war was declared, CARNARVON CASTLE, DUNVEGAN CASTLE, and PRETORIA CASTLE also became armed merchant cruisers. DUNBAR CASTLE was the first casualty of the second World War, running into a mine off Deal, Kent on January 8, 1940. Also lost that year was DUNVEGAN CASTLE. WALMER CASTLE, DROMORE CASTLE, ROWALLAN CASTLE were lost, while PRETORIA CASTLE became an aircraft carrier. WARWICK CASTLE, WINCHESTER CASTLE and DURBAN CASTLE took part in operation “Torch” (North African landings), while LLANGIBBY CASTLE ferried 100,000 troops in 60 channel crossings in D-Day maneuvers. At the end of the war, 274 Union-Castle personnel had been killed aboard ships lost in action. After the war ended, Union-Castle ships were still employed in carrying troops all over the world.

In 1946, South African sponsored a scheme for engineers and their families to emigrate from Britain to fill badly needed positions. CARNARVON CASTLE, WINCHESTER CASTLE and ARUNDEL CASTLE were employed on this service, which was an improvement on their trooping days but not up to pre-war standards. DURBAN CASTLE was placed in austerity service before resuming the round Africa route. It was 1947 before passenger services were restored with the sailing of CAPETOWN CASTLE and STIRLING CASTLE on the mail service and LLANDOVERY CASTLE on the Round Africa run. ARUNDEL CASTLE returned from reconditioning in 1948, while the “R” class cargo ships handled the mail service in the meantime. DUNNOTTAR CASTLE resumed round Africa service in Februray 1949. Another major rebuilding program was needed, resulting in thirteen new ships: PRETORIA CASTLE and EDINBURGH CASTLE (from Harland & Wolff); for the mail service; KENYA CASTLE, BRAEMAR CASTLE and RHODESIA CASTLE (intermediate liners); BLOEMFONTEIN CASTLE (for round Africa service); RIEBEECK CASTLE and RUSTENBERG CASTLE (to carry refrigerated cargo); TANTALLON CASTLE, TINTAGEL CASTLE, DRAKESBERG CASTLE, GOOD HOPE CASTLE and KENILWORTH CASTLE (for general cargo); GOOD HOPE CASTLE and DRAKESBERG CASTLE were registered in South Africa, trading to the United States. On 4th October 1955, the British press broke the story of the proposed merger of the Cayzer Family-owned Clan Line and Union-Castle Line.

British & Commonwealth Shipping Co
Early in 1956, British & Commonwealth was formed, which consolidated Union-Castle, Clan Line and Bullard King Group. The management, routes and colours of each company were unchanged, but competition was removed within the companies, and interchanging of cargoes began. A replacement for the aging ARUNDEL CASTLE, PENDENNIS CASTLE (the largest liner yet for Union-Castle) sailed on her maiden voyage in 1959. She was followed by the even larger WINDSOR CASTLE in 1960 (the largest liner yet to visit Cape Town). The all-one-class TRANSVAAL CASTLE was commissioned in 1962. Pacific Steam Navigation Co’s REINA DEL MAR was painted in Union-Castle colours in 1964, and managed by Union-Castle until purchased in 1973. In 1966, a joint mail service was run by Union-Castle and the South African Marine Service. When TRANSVAAL CASTLE and PRETORIA CASTLE were transferred to Safmarine ownership, they were renamed S.A. VAAL and S.A. ORANJE, respectively. With air competition, freight containerization and soaring fuel costs, the traditional service to South Africa was rapidly coming to an end. International Liner Services Ltd.

British & Commonwealth Shipping Co and South African Marine Corp combined their operations under the name International Liner Services Ltd in October 1973. REINA DEL MAR, S.A. ORANJE and EDINBURGH CASTLE were soon scrapped, and PENDENNIS CASTLE and WINDSOR CASTLE (pride of the Union-Castle Line) were sold in 1977. It was S.A. VAAL which ended the passenger service with a sailing to the Cape from Southampton on September 2 1977. She was then sold to Carnival Cruises. The last “finished with engines” by a Union-Castle vessel was rung aboard SOUTHAMPTON CASTLE on October 24, 1977. In 1978, Costa Lines bought GOOD HOPE CASTLE and SOUTHAMPTON CASTLE. The mail service which had stared 120 years earlier came to a close.

Footnote:
In 1999, the Union-Castle Line name was revived for an advertised “Round Africa” sailing on the old Union-Castle route. P & O Line’s VICTORIA (British-built former KUNGSHOLM) sailed December 11, 1999 from Southampton on a millennium cruise with her funnel painted in Union-Castle vermilion. New Year’s celebrations were held in Cape Town with the VICTORIA returning to Southampton in February 2000.