The Great American Steamboat Company carries on a steamboat legacy with the reintroduction of the AMERICAN QUEEN

 By 

 Shawn J. Dake

The AMERICAN QUEEN on her first return to the Ohio River. Photographed at Madison, Indiana, May 3, 2012. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

The return of the AMERICAN QUEEN is more important than being just another travel option in the cruise industry. While European River Cruising continues to grow at an astoundingly fast pace, for nearly four years America had no overnight steamboat service at all, yet could boast of having some of the most famous waterways in the world. In a continuing timeline stretching from 1811 until 2008 it was possible to book passage and cruise by steam up and down the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers to the sound of a paddlewheel slapping the water, moving you closer to your destination. Then it ended.

Red paddlewheels and white filigree have long been distinguishing features of the American steamboat. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

For over 200 years commerce on the rivers has been at the very heart of the American experience. As a young nation expanding west, it opened up what were then vast new frontiers. From a literary perspective it provided us with some of the greatest books ever written, from the fertile mind of a man with the pen name of Mark Twain. And for passengers, they could travel between cities and towns along over 3,000 miles of navigable rivers. These passengers were often referred to as “walking cargo” as virtually all of the early riverboats transported freight as well. In the 20^th century, a leisurely pleasure cruise became another exceptionally good reason to spend some time on the river. That last tradition has thankfully been revived ever since the AMERICAN QUEEN took on her first paying guests at New Orleans on April 13, 2012, and once again began sailing upriver.

Gordon C. Greene, whose family founded Greene Line Steamers. His father Tom Greene bought the DELTA QUEEN in 1946, and Gordon had one of his first jobs working aboard when the steamboat first arrived in New Orleans. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

The AMERICAN QUEEN is the direct linear descendant of those early paddlewheel steamboats. It is therefore wholly fitting and appropriate that the honorary Commodore of the Great American Steamboat Company is a man named Gordon C. Greene. A true gentleman, Mr. Greene and his wife Brenda attended and were honored at the christening ceremony on April 27^th in Memphis, Tennessee, then stayed aboard to ride the AMERICAN QUEEN to their hometown and ancestral home of Steamboating, Cincinnati, Ohio. Two kinds of river royalty met at this very special event. A man who is the namesake of the founder of Greene Line Steamers, and the son of Tom and Letha Greene who first brought the famous DELTA QUEEN to the Mississippi River and Priscilla Presley, actress, philanthropist and former wife of Elvis Presley, the King of Rock And Roll, who served as godmother of the rechristened AMERICAN QUEEN.

Priscilla Presley flanked by Great American Steamboat Company executives in the moment prior to the christening in Memphis on April 27, 2012. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

The very first engine-powered trip down the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers was in 1811 aboard the steamboat NEW ORLEANS. Although it took two and half months to complete that inaugural voyage the 116-foot long sidewheel steamer arrived safely in New Orleans on January 12, 1812. For the first time passengers were not only able to float down the river, but sail back up it as well. Steamboats revolutionized travel. The years following the Civil War are considered by many to be the golden age of the steamboat. It is estimated that between 1812 and 1927 at least 12,000 steamboats were built for service along the inland rivers. The era of the “floating palaces” and lesser hard-working boats, was at its peak.

The H.K. BEDFORD, the first steamer owned by the Greene Line. Archives of the Delta Queen Steamboat Company.

In 1890, a 28-year old man named Captain Gordon Christopher Greene made two momentous decisions that would change not only his life, but the course of river travel for decades to come. He purchased a 149-foot long steamboat called the H.K. BEDFORD and married a remarkable young woman named Mary Becker. On June 22, 1890 the new company, Greene Line Steamers began operations on the upper reaches of the Ohio River. Learning at her husband’s side, Mary Greene became a licensed steamboat pilot herself in 1895; the first, and one of the only women ever to become Captain.

Aboard the company steamer GREENLAND, Captain Mary Greene, on left, holds her young son and future Captain Tom Greene. Archives of the Delta Queen Steamboat Company.

Her dedication to her work was such that she gave birth to her son, future Captain Tom Greene, aboard her steamboat GREENLAND on February 3, 1904 while the boat was trapped in an ice jam. Over the years the Greene Line owned a total of 28 steamboats. In 1927, the company’s founder Gordon C. Greene passed away. Captain Mary and their sons Tom and Chris took over the operation. Among the growing fleet each family member had a steamboat bearing their name. Chris Greene died at the young age of 43 from a heart attack in 1944.

The first all-passenger river steamboat, the GORDON C. GREENE along the levee at Hannibal, Missouri. Postcard from the collection of Shawn J. Dake.

It was Captain Tom Greene who had the vision of a future for steamboats carrying only tourists rather than both passengers and freight. Around 1937, he altered the accommodations aboard the steamer GORDON C. GREENE to better serve this new clientele. As it turned out, his timing was rather fortuitous and the cruises caught on. During World War II there were few opportunities for people to travel overseas and domestic trips along the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers became phenomenally popular. The

GORDON C. GREENE, was an older boat having been built in 1923 as the CAPE GIRARDEAU at Jeffersonville, Indiana. Greene Line acquired it in 1935.

Just like Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn before them, these young boys marvel at the sight of a passing steamboat, in this case the GORDON C. GREENE. Postcard from the collection of Shawn J. Dake.

The rebuilding efforts were great revenue generators but with the addition of a deck the boat became a bit unwieldy and less aesthetically pleasing. With issues of maneuverability on the aging but still viable boat, combined with high demand for accommodations, Tom Greene began the search for another steamboat, to be the finest on the Western Rivers. The journey took him to California where the 285-foot long Sacramento riverboats DELTA KING and DELTA QUEEN were idle in the reserve fleet after their years of service in the second World War on San Francisco Bay. He liked what he saw and despite the logistics of relocating a flat-bottomed steamboat from the West Coast to the Mississippi River via the open ocean he decided to place a bid with the Federal Maritime Commission. His original bid of $26,350 was for the DELTA KING but he lost out to a group of Asian investors. Next up for sale was the DELTA QUEEN which was successfully purchased at auction for $46,250 on November 20, 1946, the only bid coming from Tom Greene. After the long trip under tow through the Panama Canal the former California boat arrived in New Orleans to become “Queen” of the Greene Line steamers.

The famous DELTA QUEEN served the Greene Line and its successors from 1947 until 2008.

The company was always a family affair and one of the first people to go aboard the latest vessel was a young 11-year old boy named after his grandfather, and the son of Captain Tom and his wife Letha, Gordon C. Greene. While riding on the inaugural 2012 cruise of the AMERICAN QUEEN to his home in Cincinnati he recalled those long ago days, taking the Hummingbird train with his father to the new boat, hammering nails out of boards as the DELTA QUEEN was being readied to steam under her own power upriver to be fully refurbished. Captain Tom Greene was the pilot of the DELTA QUEEN and loved to socialize with his passengers, often playing banjo for them. His mother Mary, the family matriarch lived onboard and served as a de facto social hostess.

Captain Tom R. Greene, proud owner and Master of the DELTA QUEEN. Photo by Shawn J. Dake from a painting aboard the DELTA QUEEN.

Sadly, Tom Greene was not able to enjoy the great success of his latest venture for very long. He passed away from a heart attack in 1950 at age 46. Letha Greene was left to raise the children and run a steamboat company. As her son Tom Jr. once poignantly remarked “Whatever we are in our family, we are because of the influence of the boats and the river.” Even after the DELTA QUEEN passed out of family ownership and Greene Line became the Delta Queen Steamboat Company, the steamboat always maintained that family atmosphere. That spirit still lives on to this day aboard the AMERICAN QUEEN, rightful heir to this long river legacy.

Many changes in the ownership and operation of the DELTA QUEEN took place over the years. Among many investors was Overseas National Airways (ONA) who took over Greene Line Steamers in 1969 when Letha Greene officially retired, ending 79-years of family ownership. At the time the United States Congress was busy trying to force the DELTA QUEEN out of business. New fire-safety regulations prohibiting vessels with wooden superstructures was enacted following the burning of the ocean-going cruise ship YARMOUTH CASTLE. Although a riverboat, the rules were interpreted to apply to the steamboat too. At the time much effort was made to save the DELTA QUEEN, with the vessel even making her farewell voyage. At the last minute through a backdoor maneuver in Congress she was given an exemption that was signed into law by President Richard M. Nixon on December 31, 1970 and the steamboat returned to service in April, 1971. The exemptions were routinely extended until November 1, 2008 when our government finally managed to kill overnight river cruises on the DELTA QUEEN.

The MISSISSIPPI QUEEN when it was brand new in 1976. From the collection of Shawn J. Dake.

With the precarious situation concerning fire-safety rules that might apply to their only boat, one of the major goals of ONA was to build an all-steel steamboat to either augment or eventually replace the 1927-built DELTA QUEEN. Lacking the funds to complete the project, ONA sold the company, which had been renamed the Delta Queen Steamboat Company, in 1973 to the Coca Cola Bottling Company. The MISSISSIPPI QUEEN, was completed in 1976, built by Jeffboat at the same Jeffersonville, Indiana yard where the old GORDON C. GREENE had been constructed. She was the first large, overnight steamboat built in nearly 50 years, ironically the previous one being the DELTA QUEEN in 1927. Together, they sailed for many years. In 1985, Chicago-based Equity Group Investments run by Sam Zell and Bob Lurie acquired control of the outstanding stock in the company.

The fleet complete. From top the AMERICAN QUEEN, MISSISSIPPI QUEEN and DELTA QUEEN. Delta Queen Steamboat Company.

In 1990, the Delta Queen Steamboat Company celebrated 100 years since the company’s Greene Line origins. They found themselves in the enviable position of having more demand for their cruises than capacity. The time was right to build a third vessel, one which would surpass all others before it. It was determined that this would be the largest and most luxurious steamboat in history. The vessel would be 418 feet long (85.5 meters) and 89.4 feet wide (18 meters) with a pair of tall smokestacks towering 109.5 feet (33.4 meters) above the water which could be lowered to permit passage under bridges and power lines. The result was the grand AMERICAN QUEEN christened in New Orleans on June 2, 1995 using a four foot tall, specially constructed bottle of Tabasco Sauce. Inside the six deck, 3,707 gross ton steamboat was a masterpiece of Victorian-style elegance. Original antiques and some reproductions furnished the public rooms and cabins. Wrap-around decks were perfect for promenading or sitting outside the staterooms watching the river scenery roll by. “Porches” both fore and aft, provided unobstructed views and quiet relaxation. All of the public areas were beautifully decorated but two in particular are of special note.

The Grand Saloon of the AMERICAN QUEEN looking aft. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

A view of one of the boxes on the upper level. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

The Grand Saloon is designed to resemble a 19^th century opera house with a nod to Ford’s Theater in Washington, D.C. The two-deck height space has a large dance floor and seating on the lower Main Deck level, while the upper level on Cabin Deck contains six sections devoted to box seats and a balcony. Chandeliers and original artwork enhances the elegance of this entertaining room.

The Main Cabin of the J.M. WHITE one of the most palatial steamboats ever built. Photographer unknown.

Is replicated in the J.M. White Dining Room of the AMERICAN QUEEN. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

At the forward end of the Main Deck, the J.M. White Dining Room is perhaps the most spectacular restaurant that can be found today on either ocean-going cruise ships or riverboats. Designed to replicate the Main Cabin of the 1878-built steamboat J.M. WHITE, domed sections rise on either side of the hall, with huge tapestries decorating the forward bulkheads and large mirrors reflecting the length of the room from the aft end. Tall windows with velvet drapes and potted palms grace the perimeter. Whether dining from the buffet or enjoying a sit down meal, the luxury of this grand dining room commands your attention.

While the AMERICAN QUEEN was added at a time when the company’s fortunes were at their peak those halcyon days would be short-lived. Sam Zell had reorganized the company as American Classic Voyages and set about attempting to monopolize U.S. flag shipping by adding American Hawaii Cruises to his portfolio, creating a new United States Lines division beginning with the PATRIOT (ex NIEUW AMSTERDAM) and announcing ambitious plans to build two new ocean-going cruise ships for Hawaii titled “Project America.” On the West Coast the COLUMBIA QUEEN was acquired and in the east, two brand new 5,000 ton vessels, the CAPE MAY LIGHT and the CAPE COD LIGHT were built in 2001 for the new Delta Queen Coastal Voyages brand. Only one of them ever had the chance to sail with passengers and then only for about four months.

A rare view of both the CAPE COD LIGHT and the CAPE MAY LIGHT laid up together in Florida. Delta Queen Coastal Voyages.

With hindsight, a corporate frenzy had taken over the company as they expanded too rapidly and lost sight of what once had made their particular brand of voyages so great. The mass-market approach to cruising simply would not work with a niche product like steamboats. As Jeffrey Krida, the former president of the Delta Queen Steamboat Company and currently the CEO of Great American Steamboat Company summed up at the time, “They began to market all of their cruise products with the same philosophy. I think that was the beginning of their demise.” Krida added “They made a common denominator over everything. They lost the specialization and the personal touch that Delta Queen once had.” The company was already in deep trouble. It only needed the catastrophe of September 11^th to push them over the edge. On October 18, 2001, American Classic Voyages declared bankruptcy. Hospitality group, Delaware North, bought the Delta Queen Steamboat Company and the three riverboats for about $80 million and restarted operations in May, 2002. Their tenure would last less than four years.

In happier days the DELTA QUEEN and the MISSISSIPPI QUEEN are seen tied up side-by-side at Cincinnati, Ohio on October 20, 2003. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia Commons.

In April, 2006 the company was sold to Ambassadors International, Inc., then based in Newport Beach, California. They proceeded to combine the DELTA QUEEN, MISSISSIPPI QUEEN and AMERICAN QUEEN with the two riverboats of the American West Steamboat Company QUEEN OF THE WEST and EMPRESS OF THE NORTH to form the Majestic America Line brand. Like their American Classic predecessor Ambassadors International attempted to consolidate nearly all American riverboats under one parent company adding the COLUMBIA QUEEN and the little 48-passenger catamaran CONTESSA to the line up for a total of seven boats. Initial high hopes quickly turned financially disastrous as the company searched in vain to figure out how to run paddlewheel riverboats and find their place in the travel industry. After huge losses and numerous setbacks Majestic America Line announced that they would voluntarily go out of business. In an unusually candid statement for a CEO, Joe Ueberroth stated, “I acknowledge that no matter how well structured or how little capital was required, our investment in the domestic river cruise business was a very bad investment. We flat got it wrong.”

The end of the line came for the DELTA QUEEN on October 31, 2008 when her exemption from fire-safety regulations expired. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

History will remember 2008 as being the year that steamboats left American rivers. No buyers came forward to purchase Majestic America Line as a whole company nor the laid up boats individually. As it must be, the end was sad. The MISSISSIPPI QUEEN which had been completely gutted but never refurbished rotted away until it was so ruined that it’s remains were scrapped in 2011. The hull is now a barge. Congress failed to grant the usual exemption from fire safety rules for the wooden structured DELTA QUEEN, and the then 81 year old steamboat disembarked her last passengers on October 31, 2008 and proceeded to New Orleans for lay up. It later steamed up to Chattanooga, Tennessee under her own power where she has been operating as a stationary hotel. The boat was purchased by Xanterra Parks & Resorts as part of their acquisition of Windstar Cruises from Ambassadors, but the future remains precarious for the 1927 built steamer. The 360 foot long EMPRESS OF THE NORTH and the AMERICAN QUEEN were seized by the U.S. Maritime Administration, MARAD, after defaulting on government backed loans, and laid up. The QUEEN OF THE WEST had the dubious honor on November 16, 2008 of being the last of the boats to be laid up, ending the Majestic America Line brand. Putting an exclamation point on the loss of cruising on our inland rivers a small competitor Riverbarge Excursion Lines halted their operations, with a final cruise departing on December 29, 2008. The unusual R/B RIVER EXPLORER consisted of two barges, the DE SOTO which contained the public rooms and the LA SALLE housing the passenger staterooms. Very poor business decisions coupled with the worst economic downturn since the Great Depression resulted in the loss of nearly all overnight passenger service, with the lone exception of Blount Small Ship Adventures, at the end of 2008. For the first time in 200 years there were no steamboats on American rivers.

After a nearly four year absence, the AMERICAN QUEEN returned to the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers with new owners. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

There are people that love classic ships and steamboats and then there are those that actually act on preserving something that is important to them. Great American Steamboat Company President Christopher Kyte was in the fortunate position to be able to combine both. When asked about the germination for reviving the AMERICAN QUEEN he said, “I first put this in motion in June of 2010 and Jeff Krida (CEO), John Waggoner (Chairman) of HMS, Greg Brown (Executive Vice-President of Operations) all started to come together in Fall, 2010. {Acquiring the vessel from} MARAD took forever but to be fair, financing any large project a few years ago, in the economic downturn was extremely difficult. It has been a very hard project to do and I fear that not many people will ever go down this road in the future, putting aside that there are very few existing US flag vessels one would consider.” I asked him if his team had a sense of the historical continuity of what had come before and how the Great American Steamboat Company was carrying on a 200 year tradition of overnight steamboats, with the AMERICAN QUEEN being the only one remaining? He replied “Of course we did. I am obsessed with American History and Jeff Krida, the CEO and ex Delta Queen president, is enamored with history, especially that of Steamboating and the South. We were all very aware of the legacy we hoped to do credit to.” Emulating the best elements from the Delta Queen Steamboat Company has been part of the decision making and planning since the earliest days the project was discussed. Kyte adds, “This too, was conscious. At its best, in the ’90’s, when Jeff was DQ President, having been aboard many times then, this was the apogee of a great distinctive holiday product. 90% of what was done then was authentic, inspired and a joy to experience. There is a lot to be said in this business for doing what worked well in the past and not re-inventing a new model every two years.”

Of Captains and Queens: Great American Steamboat Company CEO Jeff Krida, Priscilla Presley, and Chairman John Waggoner take questions in the Grand Saloon of the AMERICAN QUEEN on April 27, 2012. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

The Great American Steamboat Company are well aware of the momentous events, both good and bad, that have led to this time of revival for Steamboatin’. Their stated intention is to run the AMERICAN QUEEN to a very high standard and make sure they have it perfected before even considering the possibility of expansion. To that end they have appointed Regina Charboneau as the Chef de Cuisine overseeing the menu and providing her signature specialty recipes. The Executive Chef and Sous Chef both come from hotel backgrounds following stints at the Ritz Carlton Hotels in Houston and New Orleans respectively. A new Hotel General Manager, Malcolm Chapple comes from a long background in the cruise industry beginning with P&O and most recently serving aboard Seabourn Cruise Line. Apollo Ship Chandlers, whose own portfolio includes Oceania Cruises and Regent Seven Seas Cruises, has been brought aboard to refine training of the hotel staff. Despite the prestigious international pedigree, “This has to be an authentic, classic American experience” Kyte says. With a brand new All-American staff, the philosophy of the company has been to hire for friendliness and train for service. The approach is certainly working, as for the most part this is among the friendliest crew to be found on any ship or boat.

Jillian delivers room service with a smile. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

Aside from the human touch, there are practical reasons this venture should succeed. The initial capital investment was kept relatively low. At the present average per diems the company is able to break even at 68% occupancy levels. Rather than seeking government loans, Great American Steamboat Company owns the AMERICAN QUEEN outright. The steamboat, which had been mothballed at Beaumont, Texas was purchased from MARAD for $15.5 million. A further $6 million was invested in refurbishing the vessel. HMS Global Maritime provides the expertise in marine operations. Their chairman and CEO, John Waggoner, is also chairman of Great American Steamboat Company, and has 30 years experience in the passenger vessel industry. HMS Global Maritime provided critical services to the start-up company such as concept development, business plan development, financing, operations planning, vessel conversion and operations management to assure the safe, reliable operation of the AMERICAN QUEEN. The company also runs the fleet of Hornblower Dining Yachts. Like his fellow executives, John Waggoner is a ship and steamboat buff. As Mr. Kyte jokes, “John still lives his childhood dream of ‘playing with boats the rest of his life, so he would never have to grow up and get a real job.’”

Part of the new Beale Street Landing in Memphis, Tennessee. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

In one of the best public-private partnerships to be seen in recent years, the Great American Steamboat Company has partnered with the City of Memphis to make this a winning situation for both parties. The project has the enthusiastic support of Mayor A.C. Wharton Jr., and many local investors. The company headquarters are located in the city and the steamboat’s homeport is there as well. To create jobs, 83% of the office staff and 70% of the crew of the AMERICAN QUEEN are locally hired Memphians. For it’s part Memphis has built the new Beale Street Landing and Waterfront Development which includes a state-of-the-art passenger terminal which includes a spiral ramp with gates at various levels to accommodate up to a 57 foot fluctuation in the water levels of the Mississippi River with a floating landing attached.

The Grand Staircase provides a warm welcome. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

And there are few things more closely tied to the heart of the American experience than the sight of a steamboat, with a bright red paddlewheel, churning along the waters of the mighty Mississippi River. Tall funnels bow down to pass under low bridges. Barges pushed by towboats pass and their pilots come out on deck to wave and photograph the rarely seen sight of a huge steamboat, cruising along in the 21^st century. A quiet hissing sound builds into a melodic whoosh as the steam whistle salutes the other boats and announces arrivals in the river towns along the way, just as it has been done for centuries. For those that have never taken a river cruise it may be difficult to envision a very slow voyage at no more than eight miles an hour being exciting. However once aboard, any trepidations quickly vanish. The pace of life slows, while at the same time there is more to do than there are hours in the day.

Your Stateroom might just be a River Room as are those found on the Observation Deck. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

Cabins come equipped with Victorian furnishings and a flat-screen TV. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

On this boat, your cabin doesn’t just have a number, it has a name. It might be a river, a famous person or even a “state” room which is how the term originated. Suddenly watching the passing scenery from your open cabin doors becomes a very important part of life. One thing that hasn’t been mentioned yet, is the unique addition that the Great American Steamboat Company has made to the shore side experience. A fleet of buses, known as Steamcoaches, are completely wrapped up to look like a steamboat traveling along the highways. They join the boat at each of the stops and provide a hop-on-hop-off service throughout the day, at no extra charge to passengers. Many of the admission prices to local attractions are also included. It is a really wonderful enhancement to the equally wonderful experiences on the water.

One of the greatest innovations to shore excursions ever, the complimentary Steamcoach. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

Another inclusion designed to avoid the worries of late arrivals caused by airline travel is a complimentary, one-night pre-cruise stay at a luxury hotel in the embarkation port. While excellent food, service and entertainment are among the most important elements of a successful cruise, the little things count as well and the AMERICAN QUEEN provides items that other cruise lines don’t. All soft drinks, fruit juices, tea, Starbucks coffee, lattes, cappuccinos and bottled water can be found without charge at the Front Porch Of America. Eight selections of beverages can be dispensed from what one passenger described as “the best coffee machine ever!” In addition, beer and wine are complimentary at dinner.

Food, drinks and relaxation in the Front Porch Of America. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

Although many of greatest words written about rivers and steamboats come from the pen of Mark Twain, others have been inspired as well. I have used this quote from William Least Heat-Moon before to describe the serenity found on the river, but it bears repeating. “River travel commonly makes this country appear as it ought to be… I could never really know America until I saw it from the bends and reaches of its flowing waters.” The legacy of steam boating nearly faded from the scene, but thankfully it has been revived and thrives once again aboard the AMERICAN QUEEN.

The AMERICAN QUEEN represents the best in United States river cruising. Photo by Shawn J. Dake.

It is nearly unprecedented to have a passenger vessel return to service from the obscurity of an early retirement in the government reserve fleet. The DELTA QUEEN did it in the 1940’s and now it’s successor the AMERICAN QUEEN has too. To revive a sealed up boat from abandonment in a lay up fleet where most of the other ships are waiting to go to scrap is a Herculean task, but the Great American Steamboat Company has done that admirably well. In the long history of steamboats, through the legacy of Greene Line Steamers and their successors the latest chapter in the story is just beginning. The future is history that hasn’t happened yet. Now, here in the present, the sound of a steam whistle and the sight of a big red paddlewheel signal that the steamboat AMERICAN QUEEN is back in business on the rivers of America.

Sincere thanks to Martin Cox, Nora Farrell, Gordon C. Greene, Peter Knego, Jeffrey Krida, Christopher Kyte, Tiffany Langston, Timothy Rubacky and John Waggoner.

LOUIS MAJESTY at Genoa, photo © Peter Knego, February 2010

Louis Cruise Lines took the first steps to move away from Greek registry on their ships, switching them to the Maltese flag, in a dispute over new Greek pension fund legislation.  If all ships are reflagged, it will affect about 350 Greek crew members, mostly among the engine room, deck and hotel staff.  The first two ships to make the switch were the LOUIS CRISTAL (ex VIKING SAGA, SALLY ALBATROSS, LEEWARD, SUPERSTAR TAURUS, SILJA OPERA, CRISTAL) and the LOUIS CALYPSO (ex CANGURO VERDE, DURR, IONIAN HARMONY, SUN FIESTA, REGENT JEWEL, THE CALYPSO).  The latest acquisition, the 40,876 gross ton LOUIS MAJESTY (ex ROYAL MAJESTY, NORWEGIAN MAJESTY) already was registered in Malta.  The switch is expected to save 300,000 euros per ship, per month.  It could also spell the end of any Greek flag passenger shipping.  Louis has finally settled their dispute with Genting Hong Kong over their failure to complete the purchase of the NORWEGIAN DREAM, paying that company US$13.3 million.  An additional $15.5 million loss the company can be expected to incur involves the sale of the AEGEAN PEARL in 2010.  That is the amount  still owed of the total sale price of $19.5 million to an investment group that later declared bankruptcy.

MV AEGEAN PEARL as PERLA at Istanbul. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2008.

Rio Cruises tenure with their only ship RIO (ex SOUTHWARD, SEAWING, PERLA, AEGEAN PEARL, THE AEGEAN PEARL) was short-lived.  The registered owners of the vessel, Eagles Holding S.A. acquired the 1971-built former Norwegian Caribbean Lines ship from Louis during 2010, but by May the company was bankrupt.  While the ship remained idle at Ashdod, Israel, 320 members of the crew refused to disembark unless they were paid, many remaining on the ship into July under increasingly poor conditions.  In September the 16,710 gross ton ship was auctioned “as is” to an undisclosed buyer for $4.8 million.  At 40 years of age it remains to be seen if this externally very attractive veteran of the early cruise ship era will see further service.

CHRISTINA O at London.

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All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2012 unless otherwise noted.

The face of fame and fortune.

Even if she weren’t the playground of the wealthiest and most glamorous people of the 20th Century, the MV CHRISTINA O would still be a fascinating subject, simply for her splendid maritime architecture.

Spiraling down to a mosaic “O".

After decades of neglect and obscurity, the now glistening super yacht was originally a Canadian frigate built for World War Two service and rebuilt by Aristotle Onassis at a German shipyard in 1954 as one of the most opulent and sleek ships of the day.

The Callas Lounge is furnished with rare artifacts celebrating the legendary opera singer who frequently rendezvoused with Onassis aboard the CHRISTINA.

In the 1950s and 1960s, the CHRISTINA was the playground of such luminaries as Winston Churchill, JFK, Onassis’ mistress Maria Callas, Greta Garbo, Grace Kelley and Frank Sinatra. After he married Jackie Kennedy, the former first family vacationed aboard with her children.

Through these portals...

When Onassis died in 1975, the yacht was passed on to her tragic namesake, Christina Onassis, who in turn donated her to the Greek government. Instead of becoming a presidential yacht, CHRISTINA O lay tucked away at Perama until 1999, when the rust-streaked derelict was towed off to a Croatian shipyard, re engined with diesels and restored to her original glory over a period of two years.

Sign.

The vessel accommodates 36 guests and is available for charter at USD $65,000 per day. But for a mere 15 pounds, you can see what all the fuss is about and take a narrated tour of most of the ship’s public areas.

Shoe covers are supplied.

Open daily from 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM, the sleek white vessel will be off on charter for the London Olympics and sailing back into the realm of the inaccessible.

Lapis Lounge, facing aft.

On a gloomy afternoon this past April, Peter Knego went on board and was able to take a number of photos. While photography is a sensitive issue, he worked with the ship’s representative to capture as much of the CHRISTINA as possible.

A Decked! feature will soon follow…

With special thanks: Martin Cox, David JeanJean, Mike Masino

Identifyable by their ash-grey hulls and sleek lines, L'AUSTRAL and LE BOREAL. Photo courtesy of Compagnie du Ponant.

Compagnie du Ponant an offshoot of the giant French container company CMA-CGM Group, inaugurated their newest ship L’AUSTRAL on April 26th in Marseilles, headquarters for the line.  The 10,700 gross ton ship was joined by it’s sister, the 264-passenger LE BOREAL and the much smaller 90-passengers LE LEVANT for the gala ceremony which included music and fireworks at sea.  As noted by company co-founder Jean-Emanuelle Sauvee, “It has been decades since a French company counted five cruise ships in its fleet.”  Although the vessels are all relatively small, the company hopes to carry 20,000 passengers annually.  A third new sister ship will join the line in 2013.  On the other hand, the company will soon downsize as in December it sold both of its older ships.  The 8,282 gross ton LE DIAMANT (ex BEGONIA, EXPLORER STARSHIP, SONG OF FLOWER) was built in 1974 as a Ro-Ro ship and rebuilt as a cruise ship in 1986 before joining the current fleet in 2004.  It will be renamed OCEAN DIAMOND in November, 2012 sailing for Quark Expeditions.  Also sold was the 1998-built, 3,504 gross ton LE LEVANT which went to Paul Gauguin Cruises, to be renamed MOANA, also in November, 2012.

CRYSTAL SERENITY. Photo © Peter Knego

Crystal Cruises announced that beginning in 2012, their cruises will become all-inclusive.  Gratuities and an open-bar policy including alcoholic beverages will greatly enhance this already luxurious line.  In keeping up their high standards, the CRYSTAL SERENITY underwent a $25 million renovation during a two-week overhaul in Germany during July.  The 68,870 gross ton ship was newly built in 2003.  Used bedspreads were donated to the needy in Senegal, West Africa, while eight 40-foot containers filled with furniture, electronics and accessories were shipped to the Salvation Army in New Jersey.  This is a line that is doing the right thing not only for its passengers but for the world.

MV RIVIERA at Barcelona on the eve of her christening.

Oceania Cruises

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Godmother Cat Cora (right) and her wife Jennifer.

Celebrity chef Cat Cora, whose new Bravo television series, “Around The World In 80 Plates”, was also launched this past week, did the honors as godmother. Joining her to celebrate were her wife and partner of 14 years, Jennifer, along with past Oceania godmothers and the line’s executive team.

The bottle breaks!

At the moment of truth, a 15 liter Nebuchadnezzar of Veuve Clicquot champagne, weighing 114 kilos, was released into the side of the ship.

Confetti!

Sultry flamenco dancers, Mayor Xavier Trias of Barcelona and other dignitaries were on hand to partake in the festivities as 1,300 guests and media looked on. A brilliant sun and a gentle breeze made the ceremony all the more inviting.

RIVIERA Builders plate.

RIVIERA, after a strike-related delay, has just been completed by the Sestri Ponente yard of Fincantieri, the same yard that, as Ansaldo, built dozens of important ocean liners and cruise ships.

In his speech, Oceania and Prestige Cruise Holdings chairman Frank Del Rio stated, “Today, the baton as the world’s premiere ship has passed to RIVIERA.” He added, “When asked, I’ve repeatedly said that it was going to be hard to improve on MARINA’s perfection, but I didn’t say it would be impossible. And we have done just that – improved on perfection.”

RIVIERA Reception foyer.

The beautifully appointed RIVIERA will be fully detailed in a series of reports from Peter Knego, so please stay tuned. In the meantime, the ship will continue on her inaugural cruise to Venice, where guests will overnight before departing. Following the christening cruise, RIVIERA begins a 10-day maiden voyage from Venice to Athens, departing on May 16, 2011. From May 16 through November 29, 2012, she will offer a total of 20 Mediterranean voyages, calling at ports in France, Italy, Greece, Spain, Portugal and Turkey as well as Israel, Croatia, Cyprus, Montenegro, Morocco and Monaco, with maiden calls in Cephalonia (Argostoli), Motril (Granada) and the Canary Islands.

Great American Steamboat Company

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Thursday, May 3, 2012

Bunting and balloons at Madison.

Our last full day on the “Grace Boat” AMERICAN QUEEN found us berthed in the charming hamlet of Madison, Indiana. We grabbed some of that Starbucks coffee in the Front Porch and hopped on the Steamcoach for a ride into its downtown area, designated the largest contiguous National Historic Landmark in the United States.

Madison mansion.

We hopped off at the 1844-built Lanier Mansion, located between Main Street and the Ohio Riverfront.

Madison steeple and fountain.

From there, we walked a few short blocks to the Broadway Fountain, which lies in the shadows of the 1873-built Trinity United Methodist Church, one of the tallest structures in the region. The copper fountain dates from 1886 and has been restored in recent years, with a little help from a very special lady.

Irene Dunne marker.

Irene Dunne, one of the class acts of American cinema and star of films such as “The Awful Truth”, “Penny Serenade”, “I Remember Mama” and “Lady In A Jam”, was born in Madison. Until her death in 1990, she had done much to raise awareness of and support her home town. They have not forgotten her.

Main Street, Madison.

Madison’s Main Street is the quintessential river town main street. If it were a Hollywood set, it would be deemed “too quaint” to be real but it is the real thing. The 1958 Shirley MacLaine, Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin film, “Some Came Running” was shot here. Not much has changed since then.

AMERICAN QUEEN at Madison, Indiana.

The only good thing about our early departure from beautiful Madison was that it did give us one last afternoon to enjoy the Ohio River from the perspective of AMERICAN QUEEN.

Flute shadows on the river.

It’s hard to believe this entire mode of travel almost came to an end.

Travis taps the calliope keys.

Although he is no Rosalinda de Leon (but who is?), Travis Vasconcelos serenaded with one last calliope concerto as the sun began to dip in our wake.

Stars, stripes and steam.

One last workout, more promenading, visiting with friends at the rail, dinner in the J.M. White and the “Victory Canteen” show in the Grand Saloon ensued before the necessity of packing reared its ugly head and reminded us that the “real world” awaited.

Friday, May 4, 2012

Cincinnati dawning.

The sun would soon rise over Cincinnati, a wondrous city when seen from the perspective of the Ohio River.

Roebling Bridge, Cincinnati.

Behind us, the Roebling Bridge, named for its architect and likewise builder of the Brooklyn Bridge, beckoned from a netherworld that was neither night nor day.

AMERICAN QUEEN at Cincinnati.

And as we shoveled ourselves into a cab headed for the Covington, Kentucky Airport across the river, I had to take one last shot of the AMERICAN QUEEN.

Yes, she really, really is back!

End Of Grace Under Steam Sea Treks…

Very special thanks: Martin Cox, Nora Farrell, Mary Ferlin, Mike Hicks, Christopher Kyte, Tim Rubacky,

Great American Steamboat Company

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All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2012 unless otherwise noted.

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Gordon C. Greene at the podium.

Another full day on the river began with a presentation entitled “Huclkeberry Greene” by Gordon C. Greene, grandson of the founder of the fabled Greene Line, which operated a fleet of paddlewheel boats on the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers. Greene Line purchased and brought the DELTA QUEEN to Cincinnati from San Francisco in 1949 and young Greene gave us a firsthand account of that and many other tales from his youthful days on the river. Were it not for his grandfather (after whom both he and the famous steamboat were named), there might not have been an AMERICAN QUEEN.

The owl is in the detail.

Grand Saloon chandelier.

Blue Tiffany overlook.

There was more time to sit and soak in the details as the scenic Ohio River drifted by. Two Riverlorian talks, including one about steamboat racing and what would soon be AMERICAN QUEEN’s nemesis, the historic steamer BELLE OF LOUISVILLE, were presented in the Grand Saloon. A magic show, Dixieland music, lingering on a swing on the front porch and chatting with fellow guests would round out the day.

Caesar Salad.

Dinner in the J.M. White was the best so far, beginning with a crispy Caesar Salad.

Chicken Marsala.

The main course, a Sauteed Chicken Breast in Marsala Wine Sauce was absolutely perfect, tender and bursting with flavor.

Blue Grass in the Grand Saloon.

Evening entertainment in the Grand Saloon took a 180 degree turn from the Big Band sounds of Harry James to the Bluegrass tones of the Storefront Congregation, a formidable five piece band from Louisville. Their harmonies were tight (and not too twangy), the lyrics were clever and funny and the musicianship was outstanding.

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

Let them eat Bananas Foster Stuffed French Toast!

It would be a day of “Bells and BELLES” in Louisville, Kentucky, home of the Kentucky Derby and bourbon whiskey.  Mags (my darling Aunt Mary) and I got started a bit earlier than usual with a full breakfast in the J.M. White Dining Room. It would probably be the last thing I would ever eat (not that I wouldn’t enjoy it) but I had to see the Bananas Foster Stuffed French Toast with my own eyes.

Seelbach Hotel.

We had tickets for the 9:50 Steamcoach and were soon off to see Louisville, named for France’s King Louis XVI, who, along with his wife, Marie Antoinette, ended their reigns under the blade of a guillotine. After doing the Steamcoach loop, we hopped off at the gorgeous Seelbach Hilton Hotel, which was built in 1905.

Louisville hotel lobby.

It was hard not to think of the great turn-of-the-(20th) century liners like the FRANCE (iv) when pondering the grand staircase in the lobby of the Seelbach. We also visited the Ratskellar in its basement which has some spectacular Bavarian Rookwood Pottery Panels.

LOUIV XVI versus the Clock Tower.

From there it was a relatively short walk to the City Hall, with its famous clock tower, dating from 1873. Added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1976, it faces a large marble statue of Louis XVI.

Baseball Museum.

Other Steamcoach stops included the Slugger’s Museum and Factory, fronted by a six story bat and dedicated to America’s most popular pastime and the Glass Factory, which has an interesting exhibit or two and a viewing area overlooking the glass blowing ovens.

Kentucky Center.

Our last stop was  the Kentucky Center for the Performing Arts. Fronted by an Alexander Calder sculpture, it offers a free I-Max style screening of the popular “The Kentucky Show”.  Upcoming headliners in the state-of-the-art theater include a number of country music acts, as well as Bills Maher and Cosby.

MISSISSIPPI QUEEN bell.

Back on board the AMERICAN QUEEN, a historic transfer was about to take place. Stowed on forward Observation Deck, the 865-pound brass bell from the since-scrapped-down-to-a-barge riverboat MISSISSIPPI QUEEN was about to be hoisted away.

MISSISSIPPI QUEEN being lowered to a barge.

The bell, originally cast in 1876 for the Holy Cross Monastery in Cincinnati and gifted to the MISSISSIPPI QUEEN in 1976, will live on at the Howard Steamboat Museum, located near the Jeffboat Shipyard in Jefferson, Indiana, which built the “MQ”.

BELLE OF CINCINNATI at Louisville.

I next headed off to explore the riverfront and get some photos of the three stern wheelers gathered for the Great Race later that day. Right behind the AMERICAN QUEEN was the handsome little BELLE OF CINCINNATI, built in 1991 as the EMERALD LADY. The diesel-powered boat has replaced the now-laid up DELTA QUEEN as the principal competitor with hometown legend, the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE, in the annual Great Steamboat Race.

BELLE OF LOUISVILLE

BELLE OF LOUISVILLE at Louisville.

It was great to finally see the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE, the 1914-built steamboat that has reportedly traveled more miles and visited more places than any other steamboat in her class. She was originally named IDYLWILD, then became AVALON in 1947. In 1962, she became BELLE OF LOUISVILLE and was completely restored at Louisville. She began “racing” the DELTA QUEEN in the Great Steamboat Race held in conjunction with the Kentucky Derby. Up until this year, BELLE OF LOUISVILLE had won the race 22 times, versus the DELTA QUEEN’s 20.

Bell of the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE.

The boat was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1972 and became a National Landmark in 1976. Although preparations were going on in anticipation of 650 passengers boarding for the Steamboat Race (at a lofty $140 per head), the BELLE’s amiable CEO, Linda Harris, was kind enough to give me a quick tour.

BELLE OF LOUISVILLE calliope.

Up on the top deck, the steam calliope is a lovingly restored replacement for the original, which was sold at auction before the boat was refurbished in 1962.

BELLE OF LOUISVILLE control panel.

In the engine room, the control panel still has its beautifully polished brass gauges.

BELLE OF LOUISVILLE piston.

Regular guests can view the engines and paddlewheel mechanism in action.

BELLE OF LOUISVILLE Saloon.

In the saloon, which now enjoys the benefit of air conditioning, tables were being set for a lavish buffet.

BELLE OF LOUISVILLE ceiling detail.

Shortly before I disembarked, Linda pointed out a part of the hammered tin ceiling that dates from 1914. It was really a privilege to see this remarkable boat on such a high profile day.

For more, please visit: The BELLE OF LOUISVILLE Official Website.

Contenders in the hours prior to the Great Race.

Meanwhile, alongside the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE, crew members from all three Great Steamboat Race participants were competing in a number of tournaments. The  Great Steamboat Race is more like a contest with the race being just one of many “tests” to achieve an overall score.

Steamboat Race jousting in the shadows of the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE.

Line tossing and a curious inflatable jousting match were among the skills tested.

BELLE OF CINCINNATI wheelhouse.

Just before 6:00 PM, as the race revved up, the kind owners of BELLE OF CINCINNATI provided a spot for me on the boat’s foredeck so I could document the AMERICAN QUEEN “in action”.

Rhino in reverse: AMERICAN QUEEN backs under the George Rogers Clark Memorial Bridge.

The BELLE OF LOUISVILLE was already in position as the AMERICAN QUEEN backed out, funnels collapsed in “rhino” position. The BELLE OF CINCINNATI followed, lining up on the north side of the two steamboats.

AMERICAN QUEEN and BELLE OF LOUISVILLE steaming along.

AMERICAN QUEEN was clearly the most majestic of the trio but the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE was a vintage marvel of huffing steam.

AMERICAN QUEEN flutes on the rise.

AMERICAN QUEEN had to collapse her funnels a second time to clear a trio of bridges and a series of power lines, raising one at a time afterwards, as she rolled upstream. She crossed behind and then overtook us, backlit by the early evening sun.

AMERICAN QUEEN picks up speed.

AMERICAN QUEEN paddle plough.

Leaving us in the mist.

AMERICAN QUEEN races ahead.

At the six mile point, AMERICAN QUEEN pivoted around and sped back downstream, leaving the BELLE OF CINCINNATI, pirate flag waving, in the mist. Meanwhile, the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE was nowhere in sight. We learned later that she turned around several miles back.

AMERICAN QUEEN returns to Louisville.

Back at the starting point, AMERICAN QUEEN maneuvered into her berth. The CINCINNATI followed and I jumped into the long queue to disembark. Somehow, even though the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE didn’t run the entire race and the BELLE OF CINCINNATI fell far behind AMERICAN QUEEN, the AQ came in third. So much for the “race” part of the Great Steamboat Race…

Lynn Roberts and the Harry James Band.

One thing the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE could not possibly top was the evening entertainment on AMERICAN QUEEN as she made her way up the Ohio River. The Harry James Band was so great, it was hard to imagine anything or anyone that could make it better. But guest singer Lynn Roberts had that magic touch. One of the best performances I have seen on any boat or ship, for that matter.

End of Part Three. Much More To Come…

Very special thanks: Greg Brown, Martin Cox, Nora Farrell, Mary Ferlin, Linda Harris, Mike Hicks, Christopher Kyte, Tim Rubacky,

Great American Steamboat Company

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All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2012 unless otherwise noted.

Saturday, April 28, 2012

Breakfast on the porch.

Our first day on the Mississippi began with light breakfast on the Front Porch of America. When I was last on AMERICAN QUEEN, a few short weeks before her then operators (Majestic America Line) shut down, it was a rather grim affair with broken down coffee and soft drink machines. Now there was a selection of cereals, juices, teas, fresh fruit and Starbucks coffee in addition to always-available espresso and cappuccino. The aroma of French Roast wafting onto the shelter deck immediately forward was, indeed, a joyous thing. Great American is still working out some kinks in the catering and service but the Front Porch holds great promise.

Under steam.

It begins with a gentle hum, then crescendos into a harmonic howl.   The AMERICAN QUEEN’s elusive (to photograph) but frequent steam whistle was back in action throughout the day, greeting passing craft and saluting well-wishers on shore.

Funnel down.

The on-going process of lowering those filigreed funnels to clear bridges and power lines never ceased to amaze.

AMERICAN belle.

It was so nice to stand under that massive brass bell on forward Observation Deck, once again.

Dionysus in the proscenium.

Crystal and hammered tin.

Totally Random Victorian Carpet Shot #1.

Cherub on high.

Although this was my third cruise aboard AMERICAN QUEEN, I was still discovering and reveling in her details.

Grand Saloon, facing forward.

Inspired by Ford’s Theater (yes, that one) in Washington D.C., the Grand Saloon remains one of my favorite rooms afloat. It somehow manages to feel both soaring and intimate. And the details, ersatz and kitsch as they may be, make a wonderful backdrop for its myriad activities and shows.

Travis versus the snapdragons.

Today, the Grand Saloon was the setting for a shore excursion presentation and two Riverlorian talks, hosted by Toots Malloy and Travis Vasconcelos, AMERICAN QUEEN’s encyclopedic and entertaining alumni.  Topics included “Reading the River” and “From Flatboat to Steamboat and their influence on Southern Development”.

Killer's gaze.

In the early afternoon, we were led on a top-to-bottom tour hosted by Great American CEO Jeff Krida and President Christopher Kyte. Both candidly discussed the challenges in bringing the AMERICAN QUEEN back into service and acknowledged that some work still had to be done. In the process, I learned the story of “Killer”, a wild boar that was scooped up by the MISSISSIPPI QUEEN’s paddlewheel and then cooked by the boat’s crew. His head is part the taxidermic lore in the Gentlemen’s Card Room on Cabin Deck.

GASC CEO Jeff Krida in the AMERICAN QUEEN's engine room.

Our tour ended in the Engine Room where guests can visit anytime to see the control station and the giant paddle mechanism in motion.

Paddle pool.

Back up on top of the boat, the freshly renovated wading pool had just opened for use.

Gym, facing starboard.

I was overdue for a romp on the elliptical machine in the adjacent gym. The broken down Majestic equipment has been replaced with two new treadmills, a new elliptical and a pulley-type weight machine that with some practice, worked very nicely.  On the treadmills and elliptical, however, the view would be much better if they faced the window.  Padded mats, a small free weight or two, sanitizers and maybe even a flatscreen TV would complete the picture.

River Grill, facing starboard.

Rolling in the deep.

On aft Promenade Deck, overlooking that hypnotic paddlewheel, Great American has installed a casual eatery called the River Grill. In the daytime, it is the go-to place for hot dogs and hamburgers (chicken and veggie options will soon be available) and at night, it becomes a reservations-required (but no extra charge) al fresco dining venue. We gave it a try that night.

Mark Twain in the Grand Saloon.

After the prior evening’s blockbuster Harry James performance, expectations were high and mighty in the Grand Saloon. Lewis Hankins more than delivered with his mesmerizing, uncanny portrayal of Mark Twain, whose bourbon-and-tobacco-infused musings are as hard-hitting and topical today as they ever were.

Jackie and Bob in the Engine Room Bar.

And in the lively “end up” spot, the Engine Room Bar, Jackie was accompanied by Bob on the banjo.

Dan-cing with my aunt.

Along with that paddlewheel, my unflappable Aunt Mary churned well into the wee hours. Shortly after midnight, the AMERICAN QUEEN transitioned from the Mississippi to the Ohio River.

Sunday, April 29, 2012

Regina Charbonneau on stage.

Great American’s Executive Chef Regina Charboneau is a warm, worldly lady with a Southern flair. The award-winning cook and author was the first person hired by GASC and in addition to overseeing the AMERICAN QUEEN’s menus, she hosts tours to her beautifully restored Victorian home when the boat visits Natchez, Mississippi. Despite the lack of visual accompaniment, she gave a wonderful presentation in the Grand Saloon entitled, “12 Tips for Effortless Entertaining.”

Jazz brunch with the Steamboat Syncopators.

On our second full riverboating day, there was a Jazz Brunch in the J.M. White Dining Room and adjoining Main Deck Lounge. The AMERICAN QUEEN’s “house band”, the Steamboat Syncopators, are skilled musicians and held their own in the company of the visiting Harry James players.

Horseradish and suckling pig.

I tend to be a bit more Mediterranean/California in my culinary leanings but there were some impressive Southern specialties on the Jazz Brunch buffet counter, including Regina’s Butter Biscuits, Assorted Melon Balls with Mint and Peach Syrup, Molasses-glazed Suckling Pig and much, much more…

Tea time.

Tea cakes.

And if Jazz Brunch did not complete the task, one could come back and “top off the tank” at Afternoon Tea, which featured homemade cheesecake cupcakes.

Grand staircase at night.

The night lived on with dinner and wine in the J.M. White, another rousing show from the Harry James Orchestra, drinks in the Engine Room Bar and a walk out on deck.

Monday, April 30, 2012

AQ on ramp.

At 10:00 AM, AMERICAN QUEEN berthed at Henderson, Kentucky. Formerly known as Red Banks, this town of 28,000 was at one time a pirate-infested den of murderers and thieves and later a major exporter of tobacco. It is now best remembered as the early 1800′s home of renowned naturalist John James Audubon.

AMERICAN QUEEN and the Kentucky blue grass.

From the grassy knoll of the levy, AMERICAN QUEEN was a marvel in her restored black and red-trimmed white livery.

On and Off the Waterfront at Henderson.

Great American Steamboat’s ingenious, included-in-the-fare “Hop On, Hop Off” Steamcoaches were a perfect way to see the town. Several buses follow the AMERICAN QUEEN on her journeys, rendezvousing with the boat to shuttle guests around each port, stopping at five or six key spots were they can disembark, explore on their own, and re-board to continue their adventure throughout the day.

Downtown Henderson.

My aunt and I hopped off on the second stop in downtown Henderson to explore its quaint Main Street.

Steamcoach stop number five.

We then hopped on the next Steamcoach to the John James Audubon State Park.

Audubon Museum at Henderson, KY.

At the museum, free admission was provided for AMERICAN QUEEN guests.

Audubon Tom.

It was fascinating to learn of the triumph and tragedy that accompanied Audubon on his roller coaster ride from rags to riches and eventual fame to misfortune. Guide Tom Jake was a wealth of information on the man’s art and personal travails.

Bellum bow at Henderson.

We made it back to the AMERICAN QUEEN well before her 4:00 PM departure time.

Rain on deck, post Henderson.

The mugginess that portended rain finally let loose but not until AMERICAN QUEEN was on her way up river. On either side of the Ohio, lightning flashed in the sky.

Night beam on the Ohio.

Dinner and more of that dulcet Harry James sound filled the night.  Later on, AMERICAN QUEEN tied up on the Kentucky riverbank, searchlights illuminating the shrubbery.

End of Part Two. Much More to Come…

Very special thanks: Greg Brown, Martin Cox, Nora Farrell, Mary Ferlin, Mike Hicks, Christopher Kyte, Tim Rubacky,

Great American Steamboat Company

Keep up to date with Peter Knego on Twitter by clicking here

All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2012 unless otherwise noted.

Thursday, April 26, 2012

Madison marquee.

The afternoon prior to the grand and glorious AMERICAN QUEEN steamboat’s christening under the Great American Steamboat Company banner, I arrived at the Madison Hotel in downtown Memphis. Almost immediately after dropping off my luggage, I raced over to the Peabody Hotel to witness the 5:00 PM “March of the Ducks”. I had absolutely no idea what that entailed but it is a Memphian “must”.

Peabody Lobby.

A steamy walk brought me to the opulent Peabody just as several coaches pulled up with camera-clad tourists. As I would soon learn, the concept of the march germinated in 1933 when the hotel’s general manager had a bit too much to drink and snuck in some live mallard decoys as a gag. The ducks spent the night in the fountain, much to everyone’s delight and in 1940, a circus trainer offered to bring ducks to the fountain twice a day, in a tradition that has continued ever since.

Duck paddle.

Unfazed by the fuss around them, some four or five ducks were basking in the palatial environs and camera flashes. Beats an obscure lake and gunfire.

Duck walk.

It was all elbows and shoulders trying to get a quick snap of the cute little quackers as they were paraded along the red carpet.

Ducking into the elevator.

Once they were corralled for their ascent back to the roof, I was off to the Mississippi waterfront.

First glimpse of a QUEEN.

After making local headlines and getting national TV news coverage on her maiden return to Memphis, the AMERICAN QUEEN was attracting hordes of spectators along the highway overlooking Beale Street Landing.

Mayor A.C. Wharton and AQ.

That evening, there was a small gathering for media on the roof of the Madison Hotel. Memphis mayor A.C. Wharton, Jr., who enthusiastically backed the campaign to homeport the vessel in Memphis, was on hand for the mingle.

AMERICAN aerial.

Ten floors beneath us and a mile or so away, straining against her mooring lines, the freshly restored grande dame of the river huffed and puffed her way into the Tennessee night.

Friday, April 27, 2012

Graceland ticket.

With Priscilla Presley as the godmother, there was no better prelude to the AMERICAN QUEEN’s christening than a morning visit to Graceland, Elvis’ former home and Memphis’ biggest tourist attraction.

Graffiti land.

All visitors are shuttled past the gate engraved with thousands of inscriptions from ardent fans. I had expected Graceland to be much bigger but it is actually rather modest compared to some of the overtly garish Beverly Hills and Bel Air mansions in California.

Stained glass "P".

Graceland portico.

The colonial style house was actually built on a 13.8 acre site in 1939 by a Memphis newspaperman and named for his daughter Grace. In 1957, the property was bought by Elvis Presley’s family and significantly remodeled to suit the King of Rock’s “larger than” lifestyle.

Graceland living room.

Perhaps I’ve been desensitized by over-the-top modern cruise ship interiors but Graceland seemed rather tame with its fusion of MidCentury, Colonial and Las Vegas modes. One thing was for certain — the King obviously loved blue and white.

Elvis' TV room.

The TV room in the basement must have seemed pretty high tech in its day with three TV consoles, yellow/green shag carpet, Elvis’ signature thunderbolt insignia, black settees and yellow throw pillows.

Bullet slide.

Presley gave up shooting guns in his private firing range when a ricocheted bullet pierced his daughter Lisa-Marie’s slide. Luckily, she was at school when it happened.

Outfits and discs.

Even for non-Elvis fans, Graceland is nostalgic and fascinating. One could hardly not be impressed with the collection of gold and platinum records and some of his more flamboyant outfits.

Graveland.

To avert grave robbers, Elvis’ body was moved from a local cemetery to the site where his parents are also interred. Visitors are allowed free access each day to place flowers on his grave.

AQ at Beale Street.

We transitioned from the realm of the King of Rock to that of the Queen of the River. When we arrived at still unfinished Beale Street Landing, our bags were piled onto a golf cart and we held on tight for a ride down its spiral ramp to the red carpeted landing.

MEMPHIS QUEEN to AMERICAN QUEEN.

The local excursion boat MEMPHIS QUEEN came in for a close pass off the AMERICAN QUEEN’s stern.

AMERICAN QUEEN from the landing.

I did my best to get photos of the accommodation and public areas but cleaning was still in progress and preparations were being made for the christening ceremony. I last saw AMERICAN QUEEN at St. Paul shortly before her last operators, Majestic America Line, declared bankruptcy. After over three years of layup in the dismal conditions of Beaumont, Texas, it was nothing short of a miracle to see her back and running again.

Christopher Kyte and Priscilla Presley.

At 3:00 PM, guests gathered on the landing to observe the naming ceremony. There was a momentary hush when godmother Priscilla Presley appeared on the balcony with Great American Steamboat Company’s top brass.

Godmother's address.

There were numerous speeches from representatives of the Riverfront Development Corporation, the AMERICAN QUEEN’s Cruise Director (Steve Spracklen), the US Coast Guard, Mayor Wharton, the office of Congressman Steve Cohen and Great American’s top executives (Jeff Krida, John Waggoner and Christopher Kyte). The U.S. Navy Color Guard from Millington, TN performed the National Anthem and Judy Whitney Davis belted out “Old Man River” before the boat was blessed by Reverend Richard W. Carr. And, then, a rousing “America The Beautiful” before the Godmother gave her speech, welcoming AMERICAN QUEEN to her hometown.

Auntie bellum.

Meanwhile, from up on the front porch, my adorable Aunt Mary waved. We all shifted toward the bow of the ship where the AMERICAN QUEEN was officially christened and her bottle-slinging godmother got a little drenched. The era of the “Grace Boat” had just begun…

Priscilla being pressl-ly.

There was a press briefing in the Grand Saloon afterwards where Mrs. Presley and Great American’s top execs. fielded questions.

AMERICAN QUEEN Cabin 422, facing starboard.

Afterwards, our cabin was ready for its occupants. We were in 422 (aka the Allegheny River Suite) on port Observation Deck (4). A Category B Deluxe Outside, it featured French doors that opened onto the promenade, two twin beds and a private bathroom with tub and shower. In addition to the outside access, there was also a door to the main interior passage on Observation Deck.

AMERICAN QUEEN Cabin 422 bathroom.

The cabin had a tub/shower combination, a porcelain sink, tiled flooring and a rack for toiletries.

Great American toiletries.

Great American provides large bottles of shower gel, shampoo, conditioner and moisturizer.

AMERICAN QUEEN, J.M. White Dining Room, facing aft from starboard.

At 5:15, just before the “Grace Boat” cast her lines, we descended to the spectacular J.M. White Dining Room. Based on the double deck saloon on board the fabled steamer of the same name, the J.M. White has picture windows with a view of the river, soaring chandeliers, tapestries and stained glass windows.

AMERICAN QUEEN table setting.

Great American has introduced new table settings with gold table cloths, linen napkins and fine stemware.

Memphis wake.

When we emerged from our first meal, Memphis was well in our wake.

Fred Radke’s Harry James Orchestra.

That evening, we attended Fred Radke’s Harry James Orchestra in the Grand Saloon. Radke, formerly James’ first trumpeter, led a full fourteen piece band through an astoundingly good set of Big Band standards. They set a very high bar for the rest of the week.

AQ, Engine Room Bar, facing starboard.

And, later, despite being tired from all the traveling, we were off to the Engine Room Bar. Accompanied by the chugging of the paddlewheel, singer Jackie Bankston was at her bawdy best with a range of tunes from the 50s through today. It was great to see this AMERICAN QUEEN alumnus back in her element. Can’t imagine the place without her.

Red drum at night.

Outside, that magically-lit wheel looked as beautiful as ever. Fresh from a complete rebuilding, it would churn us along for the next week on a sentimental and uncommon journey up the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers.

Very special thanks: Greg Brown, Martin Cox, Nora Farrell, Mary Ferlin, Mike Hicks, Christopher Kyte, Tim Rubacky,