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Peter Knego, 4 July 2003
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Click here for Volumes 1 thru 5
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Click here for Peter Knego Video ON THE ROAD TO ALANG
THE STORY BEHIND THE WORLD's PASSENGER FLEET, VOLUME SIX

After a five year hiatus, it was time to add another installment to my
ongoing video series, THE WORLD's PASSENGER FLEET. VOLUME SIX took a long time to
arrive due to several factors, primarily my unforgiving schedule and a desire
to incorporate the latest in computer video editing technology. Unfortunately,
learning the basics of this program, Final Cut Pro, did not happen overnight.
Early this year, a revised version called Final Cut Express was released with
an excellent tutorial. Suddenly, I "got" it and was off to the races! Now,
it is only a matter of months, not years, before VOLUME SIX is joined by SEVEN
and EIGHT. I will then begin to revise the first five as well as start a new series
entitled "Let's Go Aboard", showcasing on board footage of select ships from my
travels including ACHILLE LAURO, ALFERDOSS, and SHANGHAI to PRINCE GEORGE,
LEONID SOBINOV, and dozens of other obscure and/or dearly departed classics.
To the audience that embraced the first five videos, little has changed as
far as the content and structure are concerned. As with the others, the latest
installment features exterior footage of fifty ships in one hour, presented in
alphabetical order with basic titles, a background music soundtrack and my
voice as narration.
A number of technical improvements have been made, however. With digital
technology, some footage has been manipulated for a better presentation.
Transitions are now abundant, and a multilayered soundtrack has enabled me to mix
live sounds with music and the narration, allowing for an occasional ship's
whistle to prevail.
The earliest footage dates from 1997 and continues all the way to 2003. All
footage before December 1998 was transferred to digital, and all footage from
December 1998 was originally shot on digital format.
Here is a detailed look at the story behind the ships and footage:

AKDENIZ at Tuzla, Turkey, on 15 June 1998. Photo and copyright
Peter Knego 1998.
MV AKDENIZ: In June of 1998, I embarked on MARCO POLO for a cruise from
Istanbul to Piraeus. AKDENIZ had just been taken over by the Istanbul Teknik
University in nearby Tuzla. Her new owners were kind enough to fetch me from my
hotel and take me via bus and boat to this graceful beauty, which was anchored off
the sunny Turkish coast. I spent hours on board marveling at her pristine
wood-paneled lounges and staterooms before I was allowed several passes around
the ship from her launch in the late golden-hued afternoon.
MV AMBASSADOR II: This arrival footage of the Port Canaveral-based casino ship
(ex PRINS OBERON) was shot from Premier's OCEANIC prior to one of the latter's
three night cruises to Nassau in early 2000.
MV ARCADIA (P&O): Shot in 1999 on ARCADIA's maiden visit to Los Angeles from
the harbor cruise boat. Unfortunately, the former STAR PRINCESS never seemed
to arrive or depart from a west coast port in daylight.
MV ASTRA I (during conversion to ARION): This footage was shot in the fall
of 1999 at Lisbon. I had just arrived on the ALBATROS during a positioning
voyage from Dover to Genoa and was whisked away by famed maritime historian Luis
Miguel Correia and his savvy daughter, Inis, for a tour of the port and its
maritime attractions. Our first stop was the ASTRA I, which was undergoing a
transformation to the ARION. At the time, her proposed new name was LA SIRENE.
If you look closely, you will see new sponsons being welded to her stern and,
among the pierside discards, a spiral staircase and much paneling.
MV BOLERO: Our fall 1999 visit Ajaccio, Corsica aboard ALBATROS was highlighted
by the dawn arrival of Festival Cruises' BOLERO. The former STARWARD is
shown here in the livery of her charterers, First Choice Cruises.
MV CALYPSO: In December of 1998, one of the ships I encountered near Piraeus
was the laid up CALYPSO (former CANGURO VERDE), which had recently had her
Regency Cruises livery painted out. She would soon be purchased by Louis Cruise
Lines.
MV CAPTAIN OMAR (COLUMBUS CARAVELLE): In November of 1999, Martin Cox and I
(and about three other fellow passengers) took Star Ferry's harbor cruise
several times in order to get footage of the ships at anchor off Hong Kong's Kai
Tak airport. The gaudiest of them all, the CAPTAIN OMAR, was once the chic
expedition cruise vessel COLUMBUS CARAVELLE. Sadly, lack of patronage stopped
Star from offering these great opportunities to photograph the overnight casino
ships less than a year later.

In a proper maiden departure from Los Angeles, CARNIVAL SPIRIT is
accompanied by a saluting fireboat on 15 May 2001. Photo and copyright Peter
Knego 2001.
MV CARNIVAL SPIRIT: Although I was frustrated to not be sailing on one of
her inaugural offerings, I did get to L.A. harbor to photograph the brand new
CARNIVAL SPIRIT on her maiden sailing in 2001. It was well worth the wait as
the lighting and accompanying fireboat spray will attest.
MV CARNIVAL VICTORY: Shot in a blissful pre-9-11 New York before ship
watching and photography became suspect, CARNIVAL VICTORY is shown departing on a
hazy summer afternoon. I had just returned from a week aboard REMBRANDT, which
was also about to depart for one of her final cruises before Premier Cruises
shut down.

SS CATALINA partially submerged in Ensenada harbor on 29 July 2000.
Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2000.
SS CATALINA: The CATALINA was a legendary fixture in Southern California.
She is one of my first childhood memories, from a sunny, salt-drenched
crossing to Avalon from San Pedro in 1963. I remember eating chewy taffy while
singing along with her onboard clown, Saltwater Pappy, and seeing my first flying
fish from her decks. Here, she returns to the series half submerged at
Ensenada and in a sorry cosmetic state in the summer of 2000. Despite appearances,
recent surveys claim her hull and superstructure are sound, and efforts are
still under way to raise her.
MV COSTA MARINA: Initially, I was not sure, but this former container ship's
unique and innovative architecture finally got to me. I was able to capture
her from the decks of ALBATROS in the fall of 1999; first at Vigo, then at
Lisbon as she passed under the majestic Tagus Bridge.
MV DISNEY WONDER: Captured at Port Canaveral during my early 2000 visit.
She is one of the more handsome modern ships with her twin funnels, long bow,
and pseudo-cruiser stern.
SS DOLPHIN IV: From the decks of OCEANIC, DOLPHIN IV is shown steaming out
of Port Canaveral in her final year of service in Canaveral Cruise Line's
colors. She was docked directly astern of us and really seemed to struggle to get
out of her berth, with bow thruster exhausts spewing forth all they could.
This happy, informal little ship is next seen at Freeport in December of 2002
after being sold to Indian shipbreakers. Streaked with rust and mold, she would
soon end up at Alang for dismantling.
MV EMERALD EMPRESS: In early 1998, I went to Tampa to visit BRITANIS in
layup and found a number of interesting passenger ships along the way. One was
the EMERALD EMPRESS, originally the CASTALIA, and well into her umpteenth
incarnation as a gambling ship. In this footage, she is being transformed, with her
port side still white and her starboard side freshly painted in deep crimson
and blue. I might add, the wind gusts were incredible, and it took several
takes to get a presentable shot or two.
MV ENCHANTED CAPRI: In the fall of 1998, I was able to take a week-long
cruise to the western Caribbean aboard the venerable ENCHANTED ISLE (ex ARGENTINA,
etc.). Upon my return, I spent a day aboard ENCHANTED CAPRI, the former
Soviet ferry/cruise ship AZERBAYZHAN. She had just joined Commodore, undertaking
short gambling cruises from New Orleans. She is shown from the "zoo cruise"
boat up the Mississippi River and departing at day's end.

The handsome FUNCHAL arrives at Vigo, Spain, several hours late on
24 September 1999. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 1999.
MV FUNCHAL: Shown here before her 1999 refit that added an extra deck to her
stern, the FUNCHAL arrives at Vigo and departs from Gibraltar from the decks
of ALBATROS. I had made arrangements well in advance to visit FUNCHAL at
Vigo, so opted to not take any excursions ashore. Rough weather in the Bay of
Biscay delayed FUNCHAL's arrival, however, and just as my elated friends returned
from their excursion, her pretty profile appeared on the horizon. ALBATROS
soon sailed (see closing credits), and my chance to visit this fine Portuguese
ship (and the historic Spanish port) was missed. The following year, I booked
a two week cruise to the Baltic on her, so she will return in her revised
form in a future volume.

INFINITY at Ft. Lauderdale, awaiting inaugural guests on 28
February 2001.
GTS INFINITY: Shown here at Ft. Lauderdale in her original livery fresh from
the shipbuilders at Chantiers, then again in Los Angeles on her maiden
departure following her christening ceremony. Certainly one of the most
well-appointed ships in recent memory, even if her profile is less than graceful. She is
at least an interesting and dynamic ship. Her livery has since changed to a
more conservative blue and white.
MV ISLAND DAWN: For a moment, this ship sailed for Sea Escape Cruises under
this name. The former ST GEORGE is shown at Freeport just prior to her next
career as TEXAS TREASURE. From the decks of the arriving DOLPHIN, she is shown
at dawn, then from pierside in the bright Bahamian light.
MV JIMEI: JIMEI was once a Scandinavian beauty, formerly Jahre Line's
PRINSES RAGNHILD. After several years in service for the Chinese government as a
gambling ship, she looks worse for wear at Hong Kong, despite a recent refit
that rejuvenated her interior spaces.
MV JOYWAVE: The FINLANDIA of 1968 could never have imagined a future filled
with so many rebuilds and name changes. With more cosmetic surgery than
Michael Jackson and more owners than just about any passenger ship in history, she
is shown at her Hong Kong anchorage as the gambling ship JOYWAVE. Within a
year, her name would change to GOLDEN PRINCESS.

MARCO POLO on 20 June 1998 from the bluffs of Santorini. Photo and
copyright Peter Knego 1998.
MV MARCO POLO: The MARCO POLO is one of the handsomest ships in service.
Her excellent proportions spring from her origins as the Soviet ALEXANDR
PUSHKIN. She is joined in this volume by two less altered sisters, the SHOTA
RUSTAVELI and TARAS SHEVCHENKO. MARCO POLO is seen first from the bluffs of
Santorini in June of 1998, and later from the decks of FUNCHAL at Copenhagen in the
summer of 2000.
MV MARIA YERMOLOVA: There is always an interesting gathering of small passenger
ships at Istanbul, loading and discharging people and cargo to and from the
Black Sea. The little MARIA YERMOLOVA was sandwiched between several research
and cargo ships during my visit in June of 1998.
MV MEDITERRANEAN SKY: In the summer of 1998, I took a train from Athens to
Patras solely to visit the MEDITERRANEAN SKY, the former Ellerman liner CITY OF
YORK. The heavily rebuilt ship dazzled me with some surprising original
features (wheelhouse, bell, bar, wood paneling), despite her weathered but
futuristic exterior. My day on board would be my first and only visit to this
wonderful old dowager, which was eventually towed to Eleusis, where she capsized in
early 2003.
SS MELODY: When flying in to Athens from the west, look down at the harbor
and you will see the wreck of the MELODY off a small island half way between
Piraeus and Salamis. It took days to find the right ferry to Salamis to pass
close enough to get decent footage in the summer of 1998. The seas were
incredibly choppy and it was hard to stay standing, let alone shoot this abandoned,
burnt-out, half sunk cruise ship, which was originally the French combi-liner
DJEBEL DIRA of 1948.
SS OCEAN EXPLORER I: My first visit to this fantastic 1944-built twin
funneled liner (since her most successful incarnation as Eastern Cruise Line's
EMERALD SEAS in 1982) came in December of 1998 when she was laid up at Eleusis
awaiting a charter for the World Cruise Company. Her next career would prove
disastrous and spell the end of the charterer, but that will have to be recounted
with the next volume. Here, she is fresh from hotel service at Expo '98 in
Lisbon and still sports their livery. She was absolutely immaculate and a treat
for my lenses.

OCEAN PRINCESS departing Los Angeles on 10 May 2000. Photo and
copyright Peter Knego 2000.
MV OCEAN PRINCESS: After only three years, she was transferred from Princess
to P&O and renamed OCEANA. The fourth unit in the SUN PRINCESS series of
ships, OCEAN PRINCESS is shown departing Los Angeles on her maiden visit.

OCEANBREEZE from the decks of the DISCOVERY SUN off Ft. Lauderdale
on 28 February 2001. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2001.
SS OCEANBREEZE: Martin Cox and I had driven all night from Tampa to Ft.
Lauderdale to catch the DISCOVERY SUN on one of her Freeport crossings. We were
so tired, we could barely stay awake that morning. But seeing the oncoming
OCEANBREEZE (formerly Shaw Savill's SOUTHERN CROSS) was inspirational. Within a
few days, we would be on her decks watching the departing DISCOVERY SUN.
OCEANBREEZE returns to the series in Imperial Majesty Cruises' livery just in the
nick of time. Within a month of the video's release, she was sold for
scrapping in India (July 2003) and her handsome profile will now be relegated to the
nostalgia bins.
SS OCEANIC: OCEANIC returns in her 1999 maroon and gold Premier livery.
Within a year, she would be called BIG RED BOAT in company literature, even
though the name OCEANIC thankfully never left her bows. However, the gold band
would disappear and the maroon hull would return to a crimson shade as her funnel
took on a white livery with red "P" logo. Soon afterwards, Premier Cruises
would disappear.
MV ODYSSEUS: This Spanish-built beauty returns in the Royal Olympic blue
hulled livery. Shown with a dramatic wind-swept Mykonos as a backdrop, she is
photographed arriving in brilliant afternoon light from the afterdecks of MARCO
POLO in 1998. Ironically, ODYSSEUS was once named MARCO POLO when she was in
far eastern cruise service.
MV OLYMPIC COUNTESS: The tan hulled Epirotiki ships always were a sight for
my sore eyes, and the OLYMPIC COUNTESS was no exception. The former CUNARD
COUNTESS has a dynamic and well-proportioned profile. She is shown in this
volume with Istanbul (shot from Dolmabache Palace and the decks of MARCO POLO) and
Santorini as a backdrop and would soon take on Royal Olympic Cruises' blue
hull livery.
R SIX: Shown in the summer of 2000 at Helsinki, Finland, from the decks of a
departing FUNCHAL, the brand new R SIX would only have another full year of
service before her owners, Renaissance Cruises, filed for bankruptcy in the
aftermath of 9-11.
MV REGAL VOYAGER: Another rare find captured on one of my Tampa escapades to
the former BRITANIS and REGENT SEA was the REGAL VOYAGER. She looked
somewhat ominous with her bow open and afterdecks cut down. I sensed she did not
want to be photographed, and if the wind gusts were a measure of that, I was
right.

A sad sight on New Year's Day of 1998, the burnt out ROMANTICA in
Limassol roads. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 1998.
MV ROMANTICA: Poor ROMANTICA. By far one of the oldest ships in service, I
was happy to capture her on volume FIVE sailing from Perama to Cyprus to a new
future under Paradise Cruises' ownership just a few months before she is
shown here as a gutted, burnt-out hulk. I was in Cyprus in December of 1997 to
sail in the dowager PRINCESA VICTORIA, ironically a former fleetmate of the
1939-built ROMANTICA, and the ship that came to her rescue in October of 1997 when
she caught fire between Limassol and Haifa. Everyone was rescued and
ROMANTICA was eventually towed to the outer harbor of Limassol where she sat for
several months before going to scrappers in Egypt. I hired a sailboat to queasily
take me out alongside the hulk on New Year's Day to get the sad footage shown
in this volume.
MV ROTTERDAM (6): Like getting used to a new step mother, it has taken me
some time to get adjusted to Holland-America's 1997-built co-flagship. Her
predecessor was one of the most beloved liners of all time. The newest ROTTERDAM
is captured in March of 2003 at her berth in Ft. Lauderdale and in some nice
sail-away footage taken from the steady stern of a southbound CORAL PRINCESS.
MV ROYAL VIKING SUN: This ship returns to the series on a sunny Los Angeles
afternoon in Cunard's orange funnel livery prior to her transfer to Seabourn
Cruises and a short-lived stint as their SEABOURN SUN.

In seemingly eternal gloom, the SAVANNAH sits forgotten at her
lonely anchorage in the U.S. Reserve Fleet at Ft. Eustis, Virginia. Photo and
copyright Peter Knego 1998.
NS SAVANNAH: Despite raindrops and a nasty little bug on my lens (not
visible through the viewfinder, unfortunately), I am thrilled to have captured this
hugely important ship for my series. The first and only nuclear powered
passenger ship, she is a beautifully streamlined masterpiece. Sadly, she is now
neglected and abandoned at Ft. Eustis, VA, in the U.S. Reserve Fleet, and
awaiting scrapping. On this day, lightning crackled in the sky, thunder roared, and
rain gushed down upon us. When it stopped, an unbearable greenhouse humidity
prevailed.

This pretty "cover girl" is shown at an equally lovely berth in
Malta's Vittoriosa harbor in June of 1998. Photo and copyright Peter Knego
1998.
MY SAVARONA: No, not the Knack song from the early 1980s, but perhaps the
most luxurious yacht ever to sail. SAVARONA was built for an American heiress
and sold to Turkey for ailing leader Ataturk to live aboard to nurse his
declining health. She was seized by the Germans in WW2 and later returned as a
Turkish training ship, only to burn out in 1970. She was completely rebuilt and
now carries 32 guests on special charters. I first encountered the William
Francis Gibbs-designed masterpiece in the picturesque harbor of Vittoriosa at
Malta in the summer of 1998. I next found her in Istinye, Turkey, that December.
After numerous urgent calls and pleas to her owners, I was granted a visit.
As one would do when visiting a palace in the region, I donned plastic shoe
coverings and was shown about the magnificent ship (but the onboard footage
will have to wait for another series). I next found her in Miami during a winter
charter, looking majestic if somewhat dwarfed by the tonnage behind her.
MV SEA HARMONY: The 1957-built STATENDAM was once pristine and the pride of
Holland America Line. She is shown here in a sorry state, while in layup at
Eleusis alongside AMERIKANIS in June and December of 1998. Although AMERIKANIS
was in much better condition, she was sold for scrap in 2001. The SEA
HARMONY (with Regency Cruises' logo and the name REGENT STAR on her bows and stern)
lingers on, with a starboard list, more rust, and very dim prospects.

A close encounter with SEA WORLD, the former ANCERVILLE/MINGHUA at
Shekou, China on 21 November 1999. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 1999.
MV SEA WORLD: Another adventure, my visit to SEA WORLD at Shekou, China, in
November of 1999 was a crap shoot. Martin Cox and I took the ferry from Hong
Kong to see if we could find the former ANCERVILLE. Fortunately, we walked in
the correct direction from the terminal and found the closed down ship
surrounded by a city center on her port side and a country club on her starboard
side. She had been landlocked after becoming a static attraction. A fire shut
her down in 1998, but we were able to barter our way on board with some old
Paquet brochures. We later picnicked with bottled teas and salty snacks on the
lawn underneath her Chantiers stern. I returned in December of 2000 for a
second and more complete tour, at which time dredgers were at work to determine if
she could be moved to the new shoreline and refurbished for future stationary
service.
SS SEABREEZE I: This handsome Italian-built beauty returns to the series with a
gold banded blue hull and blue funnel in the 1998 Premier Cruises livery. Sh
e was literally on her last legs at this time with black smoke belching from
her worn boilers at Ft. Lauderdale. She would linger long enough to witness
the collapse of Premier in 2000. At that time, with white funnel (see future
volume), she sank in rough seas off Cape Hatteras in late 2000.

SHOTA RUSTAVELI at Iliychevsk, Ukraine. Photo and copyright Peter
Knego 1998.
MV SHOTA RUSTAVELI: The opening shot shows mist rising from the industrial
harbor of Iliychevsk, Ukraine as the handsome SHOTA RUSTAVELI greets the dawn
of a December day in 1998. It was the coldest day I have ever experienced,
although the clear blue skies belie that on video tape. It took years to get the
feeling back in my frozen fingers, but the footage I obtained of the SHOTA,
her sister, TARAS SHEVCHENKO, and the dying former Cunard sisters LEONID
SOBINOV and FEDOR SHALYAPIN made it all worthwhile! SHOTA was berthed alongside her
near twin, TARAS SHEVCHENKO, and I was able to get complimentary footage of
one from the ice covered decks of the other.
MV SILVER STAR: Shot first from the bluffs in Santorini and then from the
departing MARCO POLO, the SILVER STAR is the last of a vast series of former
Soviet ships in the MIKHAIL KALININ class. In the final shots, I am actually
standing at the gangway doors of MARCO POLO (another former Soviet ship) as her
officers are patiently awaiting me to clear the area so the embarkation
platform can be raised and our departure undertaken.
SS STAR OF VENICE: Another one caught just in the nick of time. I arrived
at Genoa in ALBATROS in the fall of 1999 and raced to the shipyard for my
appointment to inspect the STAR OF VENICE, originally the 1953-built LEDA. She was
due to depart that afternoon, but the weather was ominous, and her departure
was rescheduled for the following morning, allowing me time to document her
quite fully. I returned the next day, which was beautifully sunlit, to bid her
farewell as two tugs gradually led her out of the harbor and on toward
Ravenna. She would last another year or so as a floating hotel before going to
Turkish shipbreakers.
MV STAR PRINCESS: As though awaiting a cue, Princess Cruises' second STAR
PRINCESS departed Los Angeles in brilliant sunlight following a huge downpour in
the spring of 2003. Beautifully lit and still shining from her rainy bath,
she was an impressive sight as she towered over everything in her path, giving
us a salute as she aimed for the breakwater.
SS (EMPIRE) STATE: Within sight of SAVANNAH, another George Sharp-designed
streamlined masterpiece sits in corroded disrepair at the Ft. Eustis, VA
reserve fleet. The STATE was supposed to be the deluxe American President Lines
cargo liner PRESIDENT JACKSON, but instead was completed as the Korean War
troopship BARRETT. This innovative ship with rounded forward superstructure and
twin uptakes would help set a precedent in modern ship design, ultimately leading
to Sharp's masterpiece, SAVANNAH.
SS SUN: First seen at dawn from the decks of the DOLPHIN (ex ZION), the only
other existing former Israeli passenger ship at the time, the SUN sits in
uncertainty at Freeport in early 2000. Originally the SHALOM and the ultimate
Zim liner, she had seen better days as the HANSEATIC, DORIC, ROYAL ODYSSEY, and
REGENT SUN. The footage next moves to several different harbor vantage points
before concluding with a brilliantly lit afternoon departure shot from DOLPHIN.
Months later, under tow to Indian scrappers, the SUN would sink off South
Africa.

TARAS SHEVCHENKO at Iliychevsk, Ukraine. Photo and copyright Peter
Knego 1998.
MV TARAS SHEVCHENKO: Shot at the same time as the SHOTA footage in December
of 1998. We were "smuggled" into the Iliychevsk shipyard (something that
would have been inconceivable during the Cold War) by our hosts, who bartered
with the stout female guards by offering vodka, cartons of cigarettes, and other
gifts. Then, we hid in the belly of a tugboat amidst rusting coffee pots and
pin up girl posters until a deck cargo of shipyard workers was disgorged at
the far end of the harbor. We were then allowed up top to photograph a
wonderful collection of classic former soviet liners, including the brilliantly lit
TARAS SHEVCHENKO in the frozen morning sun.
MV TATARIA: I was a bit nervous documenting this little Black Sea workhorse
at Istanbul in June of 1998. The crowd around her seemed nefarious and very
distrusting of my cameras as she was loaded to the nines with Turkish cargo for
resale in former Soviet bloc ports. TATARIA was one of the few surviving
TALLINN class ships and would soon be dragged ashore at Aliaga, Turkey, for
scrapping.
SS THE TOPAZ: I have had a love affair with this 1956-built ship since
sailing on her as CARNIVALE in 1982. She returns to this series in Thomson's
rainbow livery, arriving in the wee hours (I still have scars from the mosquito
bites) and then departing Port Canaveral on a balmy day in 1998. As I shot the
footage, a fisherman caught a big fish and tried to get me to film him. I told
him with camera still on target that "Sorry, this is MY big fish, so please
let me finish..." He didn't understand and mumbled something I cannot repeat
here.
MV WORLD RENAISSANCE: She is first seen departing Kusadasi in windy seas
(note red stripe at top of blue hull), then at her berth in Piraeus a few years
later (stripe changed to gold), then in a night shot at Copenhagen before a
distant shot departing Piraeus. The WORLD RENAISSANCE was built at the peak of
1960s sleekness and has one of the most handsome profiles afloat. A fitting
ship to close this volume.
Peter Knego, 4 July 2003
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Click here for Volumes 1 thru 5
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Click here for Peter Knego Video ON THE ROAD TO ALANG
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